Crankshaft Sensors

Engine makes noise, performance drops, fuel mileage drops,

no they didnt have them till 1996 with the obd2

To determine if the crank sensor is faulty on a Chevy Lumina Z34, you can perform a diagnostic test using an OBD-II scanner to check for any trouble codes related to the crank sensor. Additionally, you can use a multimeter to measure the sensor's resistance and voltage output to see if it falls within the manufacturer's specifications. If the sensor is not providing accurate readings or if there are no signals detected, it is likely that the crank sensor is defective and needs to be replaced.

There are two, one on the header and the other is located underneath the car just after the catalytic converter.

The Throttle body is where all the sensors are for this car. If your having an Idle problem though, It is rarely that.

The idle solonoid needs cleaning. Take it off of the throttle body and clean it and the inside of the throtle body itself

You can most likely find a guide at a local auto parts store like NAPA or Autozone, try Autozone first or Advanced Auto Parts if you have one, they are usually pretty good about carrying guides like that.

The crank position sensor is located on the bottom left hand side of the engine (when seated in the driver's seat). It is secured in place by two (2) 10mm screws above and to the right of the crank shaft main pulley.

First I will describe the CMP sensor location, then at the bottom of this post tell you how to get there, ok? The how to get thre directions are from a 2001, but so similar as to be the same.

The CMP, or Cam Position Sensor, senses TDC on the number 1 cylinder on the 6 cyl 2.7 Optima and the 4 cyl 2.4. What this means to you..on the v6 you are going to have to remove the plastic shroud and surge tank from the engine, as the number 1 cyl is the top left facing the engine from the front. Luckily, it is mounted on the cyl head so once you get to it its a piece of cake. One bolt to secure it to the engine and a plug at the other end.

While you are in there, replace the surge tank gasket and check all vacuum hoses for leaks or cracking, as this is the best opportunity you will have to do anything under the surge tank. Check the wiring going to your injectors and the connections, pull your PCV valve and clean it with carb cleaner, etc. This is a great time to replace your plugs and wire set if you are going to keep the car, trust me unless you are inclined, you will not want to do this again...not hard, just about 2 hrs the first time.

To know you are removing the right part, just search 2003 optima crankshaft pos sensor and you will find some photos.

01)Remove the oil filler cap.

02)Remove the (4) bolts holding the engine cover in place.

The front 3 wires and plugs should be accessible at this point. These are the easy ones. Feel free to replace them now.

Now for the back 3. In order to get to the back 3 plugs and wires you need to remove the intake manifold (air surge by Kia's phrasing) completely. I thought it was a lengthy process and the dealer explained it would take 3.5 hours of labor by a professional. You will be surprised at how easy this is.

03) Remove the air intake hose from the air filter housing side and the throttle body side. There is a hose which leads to a pipe on the engine. Be sure to remove this on the engine side. There is no clamp on this hose. Place the air hose to the side out of the way.

04) Remove the 2 bolts (should be 10mm) holding the throttle linkage cable brackets on the front side of the engine.

05) Remove the 2 botls (should be 10mm) holding the placement bracket for the breather hose (will be a short foot long hose connecting the front side of the engine to the back side. There are clamps on the hose.) Remove of the hose isn't necessary but it does get it out of the way so I would recommend removing the hose as well.

06) Remove the 3 bolts on the front of the intake manifold. 12mm

07) Remove the 2 longer bolts from the top of the intake manifold 12mm

08) remove the two nuts on the outer ends of the intake manifold. 12mm.

Also ensure the electrical connectors on the throttle body housing are disconnected, there should be 2.

Now here's where it gets tricky. The following is all done on the back side of the manifold/throttle body linkage area.

09) On the rear passenger side of the intake manifold there is a bolt, 10mm. Remove it. This will probably also have a grounded line attached to it. this is a bracket for some fuel hoses.

10) Below that you will find a 12mm bolt, remember it but don't remove it just yet.

11) There are 2 bolts holding the throttle body linkage bracket. Remove those and place the linkage out of the way. Next part gets kind of tight.

12) The 12mm bolt you found before, remove it. Directly in line with that bolt going from passenger side to driver side should be 2 more bolts evenly spaced. You will need to remove these bolts. Best way for me for the 2 other bolts was to work from the driver side as it provided more room.

Once those bolts are removed, the intake manifold should come right off. Place it to the side, replace your plugs and wires and installation is opposite of removal.

rotate the engine until you have the gape on the interupter ring over the crank sencer. remove the crank sencer assembley that bolts to the block with the sencer attached. ( do not take the 5/16 bolt loose that holds the sencer.(unplug the wires to the sencer first. once yu have remover the sencer assembley from the block you can tell how to set up the new sencer. mark the sencer with a knife or paint pen so you can see how to set up new sencer. Now you are readty to remove the 5/16 bolt. back the bolt out and remove the sencer for the bracket. pay attention where you marked the old sencer. Mark the new sencer in the same location and place it back in the bracket,( Be sure to alighn the sencer exactly as the old on. Then tighten the 5/16 bolt back..DO NOT over tighten this bolt. now reinstall assenbley back onto the block. Be sure not to break the window of the new sencer as you reinstall. it will be a tight fit but it will go. Take a flywheel tool and turn engine BY HAND to make sure you have properly set up your sencer. As long as it does not hit it will be good. if it does hit, back off the 5/16 bolt and move the sencer until it does not make contact with tha interupter ring on the crank shaft. plug your wires back into the sencer. start engine an have fun.. Hope this help.

its on the right side front of the motor ontop of valve cover

it is a knock sensor that is used to adjust the ignition timing.

do you know what it looks like you can go to www.autozone.com and look at it

you have to jack the car up and the crank sensor is located on passanger side above the oil filter on the block its not very big i pretty sure that its a 10mm skrew there's only one on the right side disconent the wiring harnest and pull out the crank sensor i had to change two you also may want to check the harnest some time it touches the exaust manifold and they melt

It is located on the back (firewall) side of the engine block beneath the intake manifold. It's a real pain to get to.

It is on the top rear of the bell housing.

1997 Dodge diesels come with the 12 valve cummins engine. It is fully mechanical and does not have a camshaft position sensor. "Dodge cummins diesel forum" is a good resource for dodge cummins owners.

the rear one is in the chassis

engine will cut out at any time. will usually start again. but will cut out again when it wants to

it is on the front timing. near botton of crank pulley.

car will not start if the crank shaft positing sensor is bad ..because it control the car spark plug firing..( no fire no start )

Where the crankshaft position sensor on a E430 Mercedes located

I had to have the crankshaft sensor replaced on my 92 PA. I was told that a special gear pulley was required to do this that only a Buick dealer was likely to have. My local repair shop couldn't do it or even the nearby Cadillac dealer couldn't do it. May want to check before bringing it elsewhere.