You certainly can use cotton yarn when making an afghan. The thing to remember with cotton is that is usually heavier, stretches out faster, and can shrink when washing.
The main reason for using an acrylic yarn is the overall performance of the finished project. Acrylic will hold up better, stay formed better, wash and dry nicer, and last longer.
With all that said, the choice is up to you - the creator of the afghan!
If you mean Yarn OVER that means to wrap the yarn around the needle once unless instructed to do more.
Changing the fit is best done by changing the pattern or the garment itself. There is some wiggle room where you can stretch or compress some areas of a garment during blocking, but these changes will not affect the over all stretch of the garment. In other words, if the garment is too tight it's going to stay too tight even after it's blocked. Blocking has more to do with smoothing the fabric, evening out the rows and stitches to make seaming easier, and getting the lines of the garment to lay nicely.
If you're really determined to try to adjust the garment through blocking instead of tailoring, figure out what dimensions you want it to be, soak the garment and pin it out in those dimensions to dry on a blocking board. Alternately, pin the garment to the desired dimensions and lightly steam it. Remember that as soon as the garment is washed, assuming it is made of a good wool, it will simply return to it's natural shape. If it's something like cotton it's going to stretch out no matter what you do.
First of all, there is only so much yarn in a project. You can block it most times by shaping the garment on a padded board and carefully placing pins to hold it into shape. Then use a steamer or steam iron above the garment to set your shape. You may want to steam it a little prior to placing it on the board so that it will be more flexible to work with. Then after pinning use the steam again. Leave the garment there until it is completely dry and it will conform to the shape you have designated. As soon as you notice that your project is stable remove the pins so you will not have the marks imprinted on your garment.
woman knit socks/ stockings ( taller then socks) / mittens / and waistcoats
it was done on small needles with fine threads and very poor instructions if they could find instructions ..
almost all was knit stitch seamless
the waistcoats were worn underclothing and tightly fitted to keep warm .. they would be the equivalent to a tight closely knit sweater worn under your clothing ..
there was no real flair and style .. knitting was for useful items so it had to be strong , closely knit and warm ..
Could that possibly be r n d? Meaning "round"? The r and n placed side-by-side in some fonts does look like an "m".
Sizing of crochet hooks isn't really an exact science--unless there is a metric size given. As a crocheter, I have a fairly extensive collection of hook sizes.
The smallest hook sizes are what are often referred to as "steels" vs aluminum. The steels are also given a number vs. a letter designation. The smallest steel is a #16 which is often around 0.60 mm (personally, I've never seen a 16--14 is the smallest I've seen and have). Then is a #14 @ 0.70mm/0.75mm.
Steels then go to smaller numbers, but larger hooks. I have a 00, which is comparable to an aluminum "E" @ 3.50mm.
Steel hooks are generally used for "thread-weight" sized yarn. So a #14 hook would be used for a thread-size 80-100. A #7 hook would be used for thread-size 10, and #5 hook for size 5-10 thread. (notice also, that thread size is larger the number, the smaller the size).
Aluminum hooks (which can be made from most any material--such as bamboo, woods, etc), but traditionally made in colored aluminum, begin with size 'A' which is the smallest at 2.0mm to size 'S' which would be 19.0mm (approximately 3/4 inch--getting close to broom handle size here).
Aluminum hooks are traditionally used for "yarn-weight" sized yarn. Those sizes run from Fingering (smallest), sock/baby, sport/baby, dk(double knit)/light worsted, worsted/afghan/aran, chunky/craft/rug, to bulky/roving, the largest sizing of yarn.
Which came first in history, knitting or crochet? Not quite the conundrum as: "which came first, the chicken or the egg," but still an interesting question.
The earliest mention of crochet appears to be in 1812--from The Memoirs of a Highland Lady by Elizabeth Grant. However the earliest published pattern was in 1824, in a Dutch magazine. There are no known examples of crochet that are earlier than 1800.
Knitting on the other hand, has examples as far back as around 1000 a.d.--these were a pair of knitted socks found in Egypt. Although the first knitting trade guild was started much later--in 1527 in Paris France.
Therefore, we can see that knitting came much earlier in history than crochet.
I think nalebinding started first, what that is is kinda... well kinda a little like crochet. Not much though, it more like making chain mail then crochet let me tell you. I say it is more similar to crochet because it uses one tool, and not two needles.
Nalebinding uses one flat needle to make loops and thread them through the previous loops, which is what you do to make chain mail. But then you tighten after awhile to make your stitches. This by sort of main consensuses is sort of... viking mainstay. Thus the name, though the oldest know fabric made this way is from Egypt.
Just let me tell you the stitches on that are if I remember is about a fifty, twenty, or more. ((Look for Yarn Harlots book, Casts off, she tells a good number.)) Just imagine doing something like that! And those socks as seen in the link, are more complicated then fair isle. ((One of the more difficult styles to master.)) Just looking at those socks makes me nearly faint from just how would I do that, but then I still want to try.
Hope that helped, cause technically, knitting and crochet came out of a easier way to do things I'm sure. ((Loosing the thread on your needle constantly would drive Hannibal Lector sane.))
In most abbreviations you'll find it as "sl st" which means slip stitch but in some cases you'll find it just as sl.
To convert the number of grams of wool into the number of ounces of wool, having the conversion is handy. That conversion is that there are 0.0352739619 ounces in 1gram.
How about if we use 0.035 ounces in a gram. Then you would have 100g multiplied against 0.035 which would equal approximately 3.5ounces.
50 grams of yarn is equal to 1.76369 ounces.
they are to be worked with another ball of yarn, normally this is for armholes or for handles.
If you are a beginner I would recommend needles which are 6mm and Double Knitting Yarn (DK) So basically Needles and Wool.
That depends on many factors, the shape of shawl you are trying to make, your gauge and the type of yarn you are using.
For a rectangular shawl, or stole, decide whether you want to knit the length or width. Personally, I knit the width of the stole and continue until it's long enough, but the direction of the stitches changes the look of the shawl.
Determine how wide you want your stole to be, say 24 inches. Cast on 10 stitches and knit a few rows. Measure how wide your swatch is, say 6 inches, and do a little math.
(Finished width / width of swatch) so (24 inches / 6 inches = 4 times the width)
So, you multiply your stitches used, 10, by the number of times larger you need your piece, 4, and you cast on 40 stitches.
It works the same if you want to work the length of the stole. If you are not needing a specific size, you can cast on about what looks right.
For a triangular shawl, it can be easier to start, but you have to keep track of your rows.
1. Cast on three stitches.
2. Knit all. Place a stitch marker on the now empty needle. You can leave it on the needle without ever passing it back. You can also use two different colored needles or put a little waste yarn into the last stitch in this row. You are simply trying to keep track of which row you re on.
3. Knit the first stitch and cast on a stitch, the method doesn't really matter. Knit the next stitch and cast on a stitch, knit the last stitch.
4. Knit all 5 stitches.
5. Knit the first stitch, increase, knit the next three, increase, knit the last.
6. Knit all 7 stitches.
7. Knit the first, increase, knit to the second to last stitch, increase, knit the last.
8. Knit back.
Repeat rows 7 and 8.
By increasing one stitch in, rather than in the last stitch, you have a smoother edge to the shawl. Just keep alternating an increase row with a knit even row until the shawl is as wide as you'd like. If you find your shawl is getting too wide for the length, increase less, if it's not wide enough, increase more often.
An alternative to 2 increases on every other row would be to increase one on every row. I'd still increase near the edge, just decide if you want to increase at the beginning of the row, or the end.
You will need 45 casted on stitches.
single jersy fabric consist of one right side and one wrong side
The Brother KH-910 is a standard bed machine with 200 needles spaced 4.5 mm apart. A good rule of thumb is never use any yarn that is bigger than the hook space...meaning you can lay the yarn across the open needle in the hook and the latch will close easily. These machines use thin yarn. Some options from your neighborhood hobby store would be baby yarn or crochet thread. Most standard bed machine knitters use cone yarn which is purchased from stores specializing in supplying machine knitters. This yarn comes in a variety of fiber contents colors and variations.
Here are more opinions and answers from other FAQ Farmers:
It depends on the country that you are flying to and fro. I know that the UK do not allow any sharp equipment whatsoever, so that includes needles. (BAA).
The US have increased their security, so it may now depend on the airline, but usuallly, they allow minor things like that.
From the TSA site:
Traveling with Special Items
Knitting needles are permitted in your carry-on baggage or checked baggage.
Items needed to pursue a Needlepoint project are permitted in your carry-on baggage or checked baggage with the exception of circular thread cutters or any cutter with a blade contained inside which cannot go through the checkpoint and must go in your checked baggage.
It might not be a bad idea to print out the page from TSA to let the security people know that you are allowed to have knitting needles.
Other contributors have said:
RKM is the short expression for "Reisskilometer" - "Breaking-kilometer", which is an unit out of date. This can be expressed by the "breaking force of yarn per kilometers" at which yarn will break of its own weight". This is equivalent to breaking load in g/tex.
E.g.: a Cotton-yarn with 15 RKM means, it would break of its own weight, if you wind off 15 km of the yarn and hang it up in 15km.
No. Wool is the raw material, yarn is another name for the string that's made from it. Yarn can be made from many materials including acrylic, cotton, nylon, bamboo and others. Wool can be used for many items besides yarn like socks and sweaters, for example.
"Cont as established" reads continue as established; it means to follow the directions without change. The pattern may be established in the first several rows/rounds. In which case "cont(inue) as established" means to work the same pattern repeats for the required length.
Heavily patterned knits, specifically those with lots of cables or traveling stitches will not stretch as much as other stitch patterns. Felted knits also will not stretch much.
The best place to find arts & crafts stores all in one place is your computer, just google arts & crafts stores and you can search for anything, there is hundreds & hundreds of stores to choose from and even compare prices. Good-Luck
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