EGR Systems

can you clean a egr valve on a 1995 pontiac firebird with a 3.,4 litre motor

I'm not sure, but my wifes 2000 Venture had that problem and it was the speed sensors on the front wheels. If the ECM can't determine wheel speed it can't sense wheel spin (a difference between the two drive wheels) therefore it shuts down the anti-lock brakes which is how it stops spinning, (it uses the brakes to stop the spinning). Maybe this is your problem, hope I helped.

Drivers side of the engine on top. It is about 2 inches in diameter and has a half circle metal shield around it and wiring harness plugged into the top. 2 - 13mm nuts hold it in place. Easy to remove.... but let engine cool down first. Also, be careful not to drop the nuts.

The EGR valve for you 95 Saturn is quite easy to service.

Standing in front of your vehicle, look at the valve cover, then just to the right of it should be a round device, shaped somewhat like a flying saucer, but about 4 inches in diameter. That's the EGR valve.

It should come off with just a couple bolts, but make sure to disconnect the vacuum line and the electrical connector first.

93 Roadmaster.... that's a 5.7L engine, right? It should be attached to the intake with 2 bolts. Look for the thing that looks like a Chevy Smallblock EGR valve.

Also, if you're replacing the valve because you have an EGR code make sure you don't have a clogged passage in the intake acting like a bad valve.

disconnect the hose and remove 2 bolts.

Same thing happened here. I did two things. Fist, I tried fuel injection cleaner. STP makes one, but any brand should do.

Second, because that didn't fix the problem completely (it did help though), I purchased a TPS, or Throttle Positioning Sensor. They cost about $15 and are available from most auto parts store, though they may have to order one in for you. Basically, it reads what position the throttle body is opened and relays that info to the car's computer.

Installation is easy, it only requires a small Torx bit and takes about 10 minutes.

It stand for EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION

Right side of the engine, towards the front... there's a metal plate in front of it, and you typically have to remove a CAC hose to get to it.

On a 3.1L engine, its in front of the brake reservoir, behind where the flex hose assy from the air filter holder attaches to the intake manifold. Its a black cylinder with an electrical connector on top. two bolts hold its base in place, with another bolt holding a tube from the exhaust to its base.

You have to have it changed, first. Then. I would take the vehicle to a reputable repair facility to investigate the cause. It can be many different things...The average person could spend a bundle changing sensors, wires, plugs, etc. trying to fix this one! Not nessicary, a plug cat converter could just be due to old age of the cat converter... after a long time, they can wear down basically, the stuff inside em can get weak, break and clogg all on its own.

it's on top of the motor, round shiny metal about the size of your fist and is easy its 2 bolts a vac. hose/wire plug

I believe only the ones sold in California have it????????? Just call the Toyota dealership or ask on your next oil change that way if your Avalon has one, they can show you where it is located.

P1401 - DPF EGR Sensor Circuit High Voltage Detected The EGR monitor checks the DPFE sensor signal to the PCM for high voltage. The test fails when the average voltage to the PCM goes to a voltage greater than the maximum calibrated value.

Possible causes:

DPFE circuit open

VREF short to PWR

Damaged DPFE sensor

DPFE circuit short to PWR

SIGNAL RTN circuit open

Damaged PCM

Look at scan data stream for a reading greater than 4.5 volts with the key ON and engine OFF or running. This indicates a hard fault.

The brake booster runs to the large port in the rear of the carb or you can tap into one of the intake runners. You may have to T off some vacuum lines as the 600 carb probably won't have enough to run everything. There are fittings that will screw into the large rear port of the carb that have 2, 3, or 4 smaller Ts for running all this. Manifold vacuum will be any port on the carb base plate and intake manifold. You'll need manifold vacuum to the plastic reserve vacuum ball....that's for the HVAC controls. The intake should have a couple of places to install switches into the coolant flow. You will need the ported EGR vacuum switch for your 84 truck. The switch should have two places to hook vacuum up....one you will hook up to manifold vacuum and the other runs to the EGR. There should also be a ported switch to operate the canister purge valve. If your distributor runs a vacuum advance, run that to a ported vacuum port.....anywhere above the base plate of the carb. That should get you started.....as I'm just going by memory.

A restriction in the catalytic converter will cause the EGR solenoid to melt on a 1995 Ram.

It's next to the knock sensor and very hard to get to. You can see it if you remove the front right wheel and plastic protection shield behind it. Then you will need to point light toward back of the engine. You should be able to see the switch.

Year/make/model would help with a more specific answer, but in general... black smoke is a sign of a excessively rich fuel condition, blue burning oil, white burning coolant.

not 2ure i just is 2 yer od

The PCV valve is located on the top of the valve cover. To test the PCV valve, start the engine, pull the valve out of the valve cover and put your thumb over the hole in the end. If you hear a little click, then the PCV valve is good. If there is no vacuum at the hole, either the valve is bad or the hose is bad. To see if the hose is bad, pull the hose off and put your thumb over the end. If there is vacuum, replace the PCV valve. If not, replace the hose. It's important to note that PCV valves are sized for specific engine applications. The wrong PCV valve for an application can flow too much or too little air causing driveability problems.

The EGR valve and electrical transducer should be replaced at the same time as they are matched. Remove EGR transducer from the air inlet duct. Disconnect vacuum supply tube from EGR transducer solenoid. Remove air inlet duct. Remove EGR tube to EGR valve screws. Remove EGR valve mounting screws. Remove EGR valve and transducer. Clean gasket surfaces. Discard old gaskets. If necessary, clean EGR passages. Loosely install EGR valve with new gaskets and finer tighten EGR tube fasteners. Tighten tube fasteners to 95 in lb, tighten EGR valve mounting screws to 200 in lb. Install air inlet duct. Connect vacuum supply tube to solenoid. Attach electrical connector to solenoid. Install EGR transducer onto air inlet duct.

purchase the pcv valve from dealer and get free diagram of its location along with purchase. Usually, you disconnect the whose attached to the valve and pull the valve out.

It is located in the back of the motor directly below and behind where the air intake boot attaches to the aluminum intake. there are two bolts that hold it on and one electrical connection. if your check engine light is on, this may be the easiest and most likely thing to try and repair. over time, the EGR valve gets gunked up with a lot of carbon and exhaustcrap that causes a flow restriction. take the valve off and give it a good cleaning with gumout or any carb cleaner. also be sure to give the mating surface and ports a good cleaning too. hopefully this will turn the light off and save you about $200 on a bill from the mechanic. replacemment valves are cheap for most caravans ($60). I've seen them cost over $160 for some cars and trucks. Good luck

Yes, it does have EGR. The EGR Valve is located on the driver's side of the intake manifold. It also uses a DPFE sensor as well.