EGR Systems

If you look at the passenger front side of the valve cover were you put the oil in you will see a big round thing with an electrical connector pluged into it. That is the EGR valve.

Never heard of an EGR pump and need to know what year, make, model, engine and what valve you are looking for.

It depends if it is a 4.3 or the 2.2 engine but, in general the EGR valve is located on the intake manifold.

the egr valve on the 4.7 liter is far back on the drivers side of the intake. look behind next to the main runner from the throttle body It isn't easy to get to make sure engine is cold.there are to bolts holding the valve down to the head use a short extension a thirteen mm socket and short ratchet and you shoul be all set.the bolts on the egr tube are 8mm.be careful not to drop the gaskets for the tube if you do they are magnetic.

IMPORTANT!: The 2002-2003 Dodge Ram 4.7L does NOT have an EGR Valve. This is great advice for others having idle problems on their 2004+ Rams. The 5.7L Hemi's is located on the front of the motor slightly on the passenger side. Also check/replace your Throttle Position Sensor (Replacing $34 fixed my truck like new), Clean your throttle body and Idle Air Control Solenoid in the throttle body if you are having trouble with stalling at low RPM or RPM Surging.

It is located directly under the black metal tube which runs across the rear of the engine compartment and on the passenger side. First remove the Acura cover, then remove the support bar referenced above. Remove the spring clip on top of the EGR valve as well as the rubber boot. Next remove the 2 bolts on either side of the valve, as well as the small rubber hose. It should be stuck on rather tightly by the gasket, and at this point it requires a little bit of effort to break it loose. Make sure to replace the gasket when you put the new valve on. Pretty simple fix, valve can just be expensive.

This code is hidden in the VIN number, and the dealer is the only one who can decode a VIN number completely. NAPA can give you basic information like engine size, year, and model, but not factory specifics.

It can if it sticks open at idle.

IT DOSEN,T HAVE ONE

Black smoke from diesel engines on starting and/or running tends to mean there is fuel leaking into the engine, or the fuel mix is incorrect and not atomised correctly. The main causes are normally a nakered air filter that isn't letting enough clean air into the engine to mix with the diesel, a blocked fuel filter, which is either not letting enough fuel in, or in some cases, a faulty fuel filter which is letting too much diesel into the engine, and causing black smoke due to excess burning. The last cause could be the engine's fuel injector which should normally create a fine mist spray of diesel to be burnt. if its faulty it could either not be spraying enough fuel into the chamber, or too much.

The best way I've had a EGR cleaned (it was on a 1996 Dodge avenger, but EGR's work the same) was using a product called seafoam. The way to use it is to have someone work the gas (with the car running) to keep it from stalling, and slowly pour the Seafoam into a direct vacuum line to the intake manifold. It should smoke like crazy, so don't worry. Pour abour half the can in, then stop the engine after pouring. Let the car sit for about 5-10 min, then restart. Take it for a quick drive to get rid of the extra seafoam in the engine, and you should be okay. If the engine light doesn't go off, take it somewhere (advance auto parts) and have them delete the code.

drivers side behind ac compreesor on 4.0 model

In concept, replacing the fuel filter on a 1997 Volvo 850 is quite straightforward. Locate the fuel filter, elevate the car to give yourself some working room, disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines, loosen the bolt on the bracket that secures the fuel filter, remove the old filter, insert the new filter - be careful that the flow indicator arrows on the filter point toward the engine and away from the gasoline tank , reconnect the fuel lines, tighten the bolt on the clamp that holds the fuel filter, lower the car, start the engine and check for leaks. In practice, there are a number of difficulties that can turn a 15 minute job into two hours of pulling, tugging, and general frustration. What follows is a step-by-step of how I replaced the filter and some of the things that can make the job more difficult than you might expect, and what to do about them. 1. The fuel filter is on the passenger side underneath the car, close to the rear wheel-well, just forward of the rear axle and is a couple feet in front of the fuel tank. Look for the fuel lines that are secured to the underbody of the car, just inside the rocker panels. The filter is about 5 inches long and 3 1/2 inches in diameter (it will look like the new filter that you bought for the job, although likely it will be covered with grime or asphalt type undercoating). I found it convenient to jack up the car a few inches to provide more working space (be careful that the vehicle is on a level surface, in gear, parking brake engaged and blocks used under opposite front and rear wheels to prevent any movement. If you jack up the wheels off the ground, you should use jack stands.) 2. Disconnecting the inlet and outlet fuel lines should be straightforward: there was some tape around the fuel line where it entered the fuel filter - remove this. Pull forward/wiggle the outlet fuel line (the one closest to the front of the car/the engine) to remove it from the outlet nipple of the fuel filter There is no wire or other type of clamp securing the fuel lines onto the filter inlet and outlet. Repeat the process for the inlet side to the filter. Unfortunately, in my case the filter had not been changed in 10 years and the lines were stuck very tight, aggravated by asphalt undercoating sprayed on to help rustproof the underbody. It was very difficult to break them loose and remove them from the filter. Hopefully, you will be able to remove the inlet and outlet fuel lines easily by hand. 3. Use a 12 mm wrench or socket to loosen (turn counterclockwise) the nut that holds the metal C-shaped bracket that secures the fuel filter to the undercarriage. It all possible, do not take out the bolt because it will be very hard to put it back in place. Slide the old filter toward the rear and remove it. It will contain a few ounces of gasoline, so be careful. I poured the excess fuel into the container I use for my lawnmower gasoline. 4. Insert the new fuel filter through the backside of the holding clamp, with the flow indicator arrows pointing toward the engine - this ensures that fuel flows in the proper direction through the filter. Slide the inlet and outlet fuel lines onto the front and rear nipples of the new filter. Position the fuel filter so that the holding clamp is in the center, and tighten (turn clockwise) the 12 mm restraining bolt. Double check that the fuel lines cover the inlet/outlet nipples and are firmly in place. You may want to put some electrical tape over the fuel lines to further secure them to the nipples, or put some kind of middle clamp (I just used tape since this is what had been done before). 5. Lower the vehicle, start the engine (it will take a little longer than normal to reestablish the fuel flow), check for leaks at the inlet and outlet of the fuel filter. If it's leak-tight, you're done! Note: it took me a lot longer than I anticipated because of the difficulty in removing the fuel lines from the old filter, as noted above. I completely removed the 12 mm retaining bolt and took the fuel filter out to give more leverage to remove the inlet/outlet fuel lines that were stuck onto the filter. This proved to make it very difficult to re-fasten the C-shaped metal bracket - it acted like a strong spring because the bracket is fairly thick and I had great difficulty trying to squeeze it tight enough so that I could realign the 12 mm bolt with the nut. I would get very close to engaging the threads, but was unsuccessful in dozens of tries (further aggravated because it was a December day and starting to get chilly). I tried lots of things like using vice grip pliers to hold the two parts of the clamp in place, but could never get it quite right. I finally lined up the nut on the top part of the clamp above the mounting bracket, inserted the 12 mm bolt directly into the nut without putting it through the metal band (C- shaped bracket) and held a fair by using a small C-clamp. This was easy to do because, of course, I was not fighting the tension of the metal bracket. Once the upper nut was held in place and aligned with the hole through the metal mounting bracket, I was able to position the C-shaped fuel filter holding clamp so that I could insert the 12 mm bolt and finally get the threads to engage with the nut that was held stationary by the small C-clamp. Anyway, I hope this helps other people avoid some of the pitfalls that I stumbled into. I do most of the general maintenance on my cars (oil and filters, brake pads and discs, sparkplugs wires , etc.) but admit that I'm not always as mechanically inclined as I'd like to be. I get the job done, but it often takes me longer than planned because I don't do these things that often. Brake pads can last three or four years so I don't get much practice. And b it seems like something always sticks and is very hard to remove . As mentioned above I had never changed the fuel filter on the Volvo 850. Ironically, I'm selling this car and am unlikely to ever change another Volvo fuel filter.

P0455 is evaporative emissions system large vapor leak. It has nothing to do with EGR.

You could have a loose gas cap, broken vapor hose, or a leak in the fuel tank. Anything that would let gasoline vapors escape could turn the light on.

They are in the same place on all 2.5 Subaru engines. Back of the intake manifold, driver's side. This forum will not allow pictures, otherwise I would show you where. Rest assured it is easy to find.

There are 2. One on each side of the catalytic converter.

A 2001 Dodge Ram does not have EGR.

A 1999 will be computer controlled and you cannot adjust the idle like you would with a carb. If it is idling rough there is probably a larger problem in play. Most auto parts stores will read the trouble codes from the computer for you and help you track down the problem.

there is a sensor on it called the E G R valve replace it that's on a 1999 5.4 engine

The only thing you can do is accelerate more slowly, and when driving on the freeway, set the cruise control, and use premium quality gasoline unless you have a TDI. Or you could buy a diff-ride

Depending on year and make of car. I believe the govenment requires that auto makers warranty the emmissions system for a period of 10 years, but this is easy for the manufacturer to get around b claiming non-warrantied faulty equipment. You may want to check via the internet your manufacturer and / or local DMV

I'm not positive on '89s but on '90s (I'm almost positive they're the same engine) its on the passenger's side. You should be able to see it by opening the hood. Its right next to the intake plenum/manifold and it has a pipe that connects just behind the throttle body. Hope that helps!

I am in the process of replacing my valve for my 2000 Ford Ranger. When I pop the hood it is back and to the right and has a couple of hoses attached to it. If you buy the part it is really easy to identify it with the replacement part.

step one: prop the fuel tank up to access the throttle lever assembly (left side)

step two: trace your throttle cable down to where they go around the throttle lever (more like a pulley) twist the throttle, you'll see this lever rotate

step three: locate the idle adjuster screw, its a small stop screw that keeps the throttle lever from turning completely to the full-close position.

step four: by turning this screw in, the idle rpm should increase.

sorry im no mechanic, but thi

check fuel pressure, check plugs (75000), check temp sensor by no.1 cylinder spark plug, check air filter, check intake gasket for a leak bunch more but theres a start

No.