Ford Bronco II

It can need a new slave or master cyl. TAke it to a garage as it is hard to bleed and to work on.

very simple open the hood and look at the top of head light. there will be a little L shaped piece of metal pull the short end up so it points towards the sky. then slide it out. the head light will more than likely fall out.

you flooded it

one is for the negative, one for the positive, 2 for the heater circuit. Best idea is to buy a "direct fit" O2 sensor that is a complete unit and has a plug on it so there is no guess work with wiring. Direct fit O2s are not that much more money.

Are you talking about the speedometer gear?? If so it will be located on the transfer case towards the rear on the drivers side.. It is black and sticks out about 3" with the speedo wire coming out of it.. There is a 10 or 11mm bolt holding it on.. Cheers Mike

Go to Autozone.com and look under repair info. This should get you going in the right direction.

Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then positive cable. Remove the red angle connector plug from the relay. Note what cables go to each stud on the relay, then remove the two nuts. Remove the two screws that hold the relay to the sidewall. Clean the relay ends of the cables while they're loose. Install the replacement relay, correct orientation is determined by the screw hole pattern, and reconnect cable ends. Be careful not to over torque the nuts - you're working against the plastic shell of the relay, and could crack it. Reconnect the relay control wire to the upper small screw stud. Aftermarket relays (e.g., AutoZone Duralast) have two terminals, labeled "S" and "I". The "I" is not used on the Bronco II (and other Fords). Reconnect battery cables, positive first.

Remove the carburetor bowl and make sure the float valve is letting gas in when the floats are lowered and stopping when raised ( you may have to clean the needle valve), then use a small flat screwdriver to remove the valve ( brass piece ) that is inside the part that is in the middle of the floats ( the bolt that holds the bowl in place screws into it, it should drop straight down)and clean all the holes in it with carb cleaner and a piece of wire as well as the hole it came out of and your problem should be solved.

The general consensus with most performance oriented Bronco owners is that original Ford Autolite or Motorcraft spark plugs work just as well or better than most "performance" spark plugs.

I'm not a mechanic / technician but I believe that is ( 30 to 40 PSI fuel

pressure on the Ford 2.9L V6 engine ) with fuel injection

"http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Location_of_oil_pressure_sending_unit_1990_bronco_351"

it should be on the drivers side frame rail between fuel tank and the engine around the area of the drivers door.

Weight of object(newtons) - Density(measured in grams/cm cube) of water(or other substance) x volume(measured in cm cubes) of water(or other substance) displaced If the result is positive it will sink with as if it had a weight of the result, if the result is negative it will float. The basic definition is anything less dense than water will float on it (anything with a density of less than 1 gram per centimeter cube)

The mass divided my the volume determine the density of an object

Try checking the intake manifold or carby for a vacuum leak.

Should just pull-out Check for spring clip at end of cylinder

Top speed is 80 mph.

I don't know what the "best" are but I am running Bosch Platinum 2 plugs and I like them. The box says "If you don't feel the difference, Bosch will pay for the plugs". I'm running Platinum 4 plugs, they fire better than the Platinum Twos but a little more pricey. I think they're 7 something a plug.

Thick film IV ignition system. Attached to the outside of distributor

idle air control valve?

An alignment problem would not cause a vibration unless the alignment has worn the tires badly, therefore the tires would cause the vibration. If the tires are okay, have the drive axles checked, because a worn drive axle can cause vibration.

The car pulling to the right when the steering wheel is released is most likely an alignment problem, but could also be a "radial tire pull". Normally a rotation will correct that.

An alignment problem will NOT cause your wheels to bend. Normally, only an impact could cause that -- like pot holes, curbs, etc.

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this could be due to oil sludge. this is a common problem for 2003 solara. make sure to change your oil often.

Try replacing the tires! Apparently, Solaras suspension is very sensitive to tires with bad belts, bumps, flat spots, etc. Mine was shaking between 40 and 70 mph--replaced the front tires and it's smooth as silk no

try getting your tires balanced

First. Drain the system. Remove the heater core hoses at the fire wall. Remove the "lower insulator panel and glove box." Then the lower instrument panel brace, and heater core cover. The is on the left hand side, in the cavity where the glove box goes. Remove the retaining screw, and pull the heater core, "down and out to remove it." It also says to make sure that all of the sealing material is in place before reinstalling.

The first answer makes this repair sound so easy. Take it to a shop and pay the price. It is not by any means easy. It is the stuff of nightmares are made of. Dozens of screws and bolts, pieces of your plastic dash will easily crack and break. I should known something was wrong when the parts guy and also mechanics cracked sly grins, despite knowing my buddy and I fearless mechanical abilities.

The top portion of the dashboard will have to be removed from the vehicle. The dash portion that houses the gauges, vents, temp control, glove box which some call the instrument panel - yeah that big 'ole thing will have to be lowered down and forward, disconnect fat wire harnesses for little more work room, that also includes dropping the steering column too. All of this has to be done just to get the housing where the heater core hides. The heater core housing is another different monster and at which point we threw the towel in and put the behemoth back together. I will gladly pay a professional mechanic to do this . Oh did I mention you will have under the hood work too, like discharging the ac system. I gladly returned the part to the parts store and collected $59.

HP IS 158@4000RPM TQ IS 276@2000RPM ANSWER TAKEN FROM "HIGH PERFORMANCE FORD ENGINE PARTS EXCHANGE" WRITTEN BY GEORGE REID

The front suspension may have excessive positive camber