Ford Bronco II

Have the steering gear adjusted; the gear may have too much play in it. After that is looked at, a steering stabilizer may be added to reduce the amount of wandering . I hope this helps you, Mark = *One thing else to check is the wheel bearings. Jack up the front end/ grab tire at 9 and 3 oclock and try to wiggle it. If theres alot of play...have the bearings checked by a service tech.

Yeah, MPG is anywhere from 10-12 (at the best maybe near 13 with the 5.8, though stock that's probably with a sub 200lb driver and no one/thing else extra).

Also 1978-79 Broncos actually weighed more between 4500-5000 like a max of just over 4700lbs with the 6.6L V8. Most/all modern 4WD full-size pickups are heavier then that.

For an object to float it must be less dense than the water/liquid that it's in. Adding sugar to water lowers its density because glucose molecules (sugar molecules) are less dense than water molecules. Therefore, putting an object into sugar water will make it sink.

No

first would be to remove the headlight and turn signal. remove any bolts behind there holding the fender. remove the screws holding the inner fender to the fender. at the bottom of the fender behind the tire there are 1-2 bolts that need to be removed. now open the door and remove the fender bolt/s in the door jamb. last is to remove the 4-5 bolts along the top of the fender under the hood holding the fender to the appron.

I've been searching for a while too and found a company that sells fast-back soft tops for fullsize broncos. http://www.soft-tops.com/fordbronco.html It's not the sleek/behind the seat top, but would still serve the same purpose.

Skyler Corporation also makes soft tops for all years of full-size Broncos. Theirs are the tonneau-style top that comes straight down behind the front seats. See the link below or go here (http://www.skylercorp.com/Skyler-tops.htm) for pictures and info. The site may or may not be down at the moment, but I'm unsure if they're currently taking orders or not.

Try Jeffs Bronco Graveyard at broncograveyard.com, bought a winch bumper from there with no problems, and thet started selling soft tops again, or has a company that they use.

in the exhaust manifold right before the catalytic converter

An open vacuum line allows air to enter the intake stream at the wrong place allowing too much air in after the sensors. The 2.9 EFI engine uses various sensors to adjust timing and how much fuel goes to the cylinders. They do this by measuring throttle position, manifold air pressure and alot of other conditions. Try this site for more info. http://www.therangerstation.com/

OK so you have power but you need to check and see if its getting fire easy way would be pull one plug out and leave it connected to the wire and let it hang while you watch have someone turn the motor over and see if the plug fires if it doesn't you will need to check all spark plugs for corrosion check the distributor cap and rotor and replace if necessary if it does spark then you need to see if its getting fuel you would start with the fuel filter and work your way to the intake on that one...

First off, before you do anything you will need to make sure the lock cylinder is in the off position. If this is not done, you will need to reprogram the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) after replacing the ignition switch. Next you will need to remove the radio from the dash (you will remove the cylinder through the radio opening). Next, you will need to remove the beauty ring around the keyhole on the dash. Behind this there are 2 bolts. Once you remove the 2 bolts, you will be able to pull it through the backside of the dash and disconnect the 2 plugs and the anti-theft sensor. IF for some reason you are not able to remove the switch in the off position (if its stuck in the on position like mine was), you will need to reprogram the PCM after replacing the ignition switch or it won't start. You can get the steps to do that for your vehicle from your local GM dealer.

Drain coolant. Remove upper radiator hose. unbolt 3 bolts on thermostat housing. take out old one. reverse to install.

!987 Bronco II had egr system, but 88's dont have egr system. I own and 88 and a manual and it states this

remove batt. cable from starter(its not wired to batt so has no power) remove 2 1/2 bolts remove starter

According to a website I was looking at :

For a 1987 Ford Bronco II , 2.9 liter V6 engine :

It depends on whether you have the 5 speed manual transmission or the

automatic transmission , and if it is rear wheel drive or 4X4

( in the city 15 to 17 and on the highway 20 to 22 miles per U.S. gallon )

1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6

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The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

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The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front of Ford Bronco 2 with 2.9 litre V6 engine

well my friends, GM has really stuck it to mechanics on this 1. start with battery disconnect, and don't hook it back up till you get EVERYTHING PLUGGED BACK IN. oh before you do the battery adjust the seats where all bolts are accessible. remove front seats, the book doesnt say this but youll thank me, considering whats ahead its a minor step. remove console. use a torx bit on the shifter, knob, tube and leather boot all come out as 1. disconnnect harness at back of console, youll be familiar with the coupler from the drivers seat. remove A pillar mouldings, remove long trim piece around defroster ducts. remove trim below steering column. remove steel knee breaker under column. rmv bolt connecting shaft to column. (inside car) disconnect big column harness with 7mm socket, discon airbag connector right next to it. remove 4 nuts and set column aside. remove trim panel around instrument cluster. remove instrument cluster. remove glove box cover. Scared yet? don't be, its just a big piece of GM junk.remove radio and a/c controls. NOW looking around the dash youll see a bunch of 10mm headed bolts that hold the plastic part of the dash to the steel framwork underneath it. that frame is called the I/P carrier. remove them, and don't forget to get the 2 by the passenger airbag. by now youre unplugging stuff as you go so im not gonna tell you anymore. the passenger airbag stays with the dash, so leave the bolts with the big washers alone. ok got em all? start tugging and undoing the harnesses, antennae wires, ductwork, and...viola! hey honey look what i got! she gasps and wonders if youre gonna get it all back together, cause youre already about 5 beers in. Relax its gonna be okay. pop open another 1 and marvel at your work. now youll see the I/P carrier and a bunch of harness plugs hanging out everywhere! that big black box from the middle over is your quest. that's the HVAC case, and yes you need to get the freon out of there responsibly.

remove metal bracket in middle frome carrier to console bracket. the console bracket needs to be unbolted to achieve this. the ebrake lever pretty much stays solid in the car the whole time. now remove the little blower motor for the back seats. right there in the middle of the car on the bottom of the case. man that a big pile of parts u got! but were so close now. the I/P carrier is next, big 15mm headed bolts on both ends, 4 around the column support, And a bunch of 10mm nuts holding the hvac case to the carrier. i shouldn't have to tell you to undo all the harness anchors. youre a pro by now and not even waggoner and his army of inbred engineers can stop u now. you have the power of 10 grinches! remove I/P carrier. there is NO studs holding case to firewall. unhook ac lines under hood, and cuss those stupid clips on the heater hoses. spray em with WD40 and pop another cold one. let em soak a minute and dig those nails in one side at a time, you can rotate the hoses somewhat, keep trying,POP got the first one didnt ya? do the other 1 now. that's so our overpaid UAW workers don't spend too much time putting cars together. to heck with the poor sap who has to undo them. wash hands, get back inside. unplug 3 actuators on left side and 1 on far right, PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to how the harnesses run around the case! Remove hvac case. flip it over and remove those 5.5mm screws holding the heater core cover on. remove heater core! congatulations, you now are qualified to work on any GM piece of crap out there. OK when ya get it back together, THIS IS IMPORTANT, after reconnecting battery and turning the key on, DONT JACK WITH A/C controls for about 90 seconds! the system will go thru a self test mode. leave it be while it does this! by the way the book gives 10.3 hrs on this, did my first 1 yesterday, i was draggin ass a little, took me 7 hrs. believe i could do the next one in 4. i hope theres never a next one. I posted this cause i was looking for answers yesterday and could find none. so good luck and keep wrenching.

i just did my sisters heater core in her 2003 trailblazer ltz and this guys information guided me thru almost to the t. he is pretty dead on about his information.

we have a gas engine jenbacher 1006kw.we face a black shutdown due to exhaust back pressure high.

check the three main things...compression, spark, and of course fuel. if the compression is good, then check to see if you are gettin spark. if you are getting both of these, you are probably having a problem with the fuel pump or relay. turn the key switch to the on position and see if you can hear the fuel pump whinning. if not, check the inertia switch which is under the dash on the drivers side to the left of the brake pedal. if the little red button is up, press it down and try that. if none of this works, i would recommend bringing it to a shop.

On the passenger side where the carpet goes up under the dash. Pull the carpet back and it will be on the left.

d16a1 from a 86,87 integra as long as it has vacumn advance = plug and play you will need axles and hubs from the integ that is the easiest or if you have alot of money anything will fit

Under the left hand 'Smith' cover you should be able to see a small flap, sometimes this can be obscured by the GCV unit's venting pipes in which case just locate it by feeling around. Inside this flap is a button, push this and it will release the egr valve socket under the dash. The valve is in this.

well idk how to put a picture on here..if you can...try going to howstuffworks.com

that should getcha going.

1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6

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The engine cylinder / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front

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The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE and the marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the REAR

R12 ( unless it has already been retrofitted )

same thing as any vehicle, it just goes back to zero