Ford Bronco II

This information can be found in your owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Dealer or salvage yard is a source. The fuel pump fuse is usually located under the hood in the fuse array.

YES, IT WILL IT WILL FIT IN THERE PERFECTLY WITH NO PROBLEMS AT ALL! I HAVE BEEN CHANGING GEO ENGINES FOR 25 YEARS I HAVE PUT A 89 GEO TRACKER ENGINE INTO 91 GEO STORMS LOTS OF TIMES. WHEN CHANGING ENGINES ALWAYS CHECK YOUR MUFFLER BELTS AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF OIL, TRANSMISSION FLUID, BLINKER FLUID, AND REAR END OIL. ALWAYS CHECK YOUR SEALS ALSO.

SINCERELY

CHUCK DAVIS

# Bettery discharged or low # Air filter clogged # Fault in fuel or electrical systems # Fuel not reaching the carburetor or injectors # Carburetor in need of overhaul # Distributor rotor carbon tracked and/or damaged # Choke control stuck or inoperative

If something has a lower density than the substance it is in it will float.

No, it can't. Here is a web site that can help you with questions about your truck. http://www.therangerstation.com/

sounds like a fuel problem, your filter may be in need of replacment, but more probable is the fuel pump is failing, either way start with the filter as it should be changed when the pump is replaced anyway.

Could be the vacuum lines going to the vacuum reservoir located under the intake. Had the same problem on an 86.

normally you have no heat and,or water on the passenger floorboard

make sure the #1 piston is at the top at the caps clip start clockwise 1-4-2-5-3-6

Check into the ABS pump or module ---- I would say the pump

Ebay, got one for my 66. The guy has them all in nice blown up colorized form. forgot his nam but it's like wirediagrams or something . Type in 64 cadillac wiring diagram. Otherwise try hemmings.com

check computer and odbI codes

!

go to an auto parts store and get yourself a Haynes Automotive manual for the year Bronco you have. They have an excellent write up on just how to do the brake bleed. It's easy after you do it the first time.

Good luck! If I don't know how to do a project, I read the Hayes guide then I go to the junk yard to take one apart. That's what I did with the heater core. It was such a pain that I ended up just selling the van. Unless your very handy and have a lot of patience, I would pass this project on to a pro. Sorry!

Kinda complicated You use the computer Located behind the seat (driver) You can look it up @www.autozone.com...

* UNDER HOOD-Let system cool. Loosen radiator cap to first notch and let system vent. Have a pan to catch spilling coolant. Disconnect both heater core hoses at firewall. Lay to side with ends up high so coolant does not spill any more than neccesary. Get a towel and place in passenger floor board to avoid getting coolant on carpet.Plug core tubes if possible. * UNDER DASH/BENEATH AND BEHIND GLOVE COMPARTMENT- Loosen 3 vertical screws closest to you and 2 vertical screws at back of core cover-then remove cover. * BACK UNDER HOOD-Push heater core tubes threw firewall. * BACK UNDER DASH-Pull straight out on core until tubes clear firewall and remove pulling core downward. Be sure to purge system after installing new core. There may be air in system.

sounds like your heater core, real pain to get to, have to take the whole dash out to get to it... before you jump to that though check your thermostat and antifreeze level.

Most vehicles only have one fuel pump, manual or electric.

Correct answer is 2, a high pressure pump in the tank and another inside the frame rails under driver's feet.

Most likely it is the TFI module mounted on the back side of the distributor. Takes a special tool to remove it, available at auto zone for about 5 bucks.

The relay in the engine compartment. It's on the passenger side mounted on the fenderwell just in front of the strut tower.

The fuel pump is located in the rear left of the gas tank. FIRST, disconnect battery, get most of the gas out, if you can. SECOND, remove rear seat, disconnect wire plug, then remove 3 screws, then push rubber through the triangle cover that was screwed. THIRD, jack up the car from the sides, make sure you use jack stands (KEEP REAR BOTTOM END CLEAR). FOURTH , open gas cap, (protecting eyes!) disconnect gas lines under car near rear left tire after removing the plastic cover. FIFTH, loosen the TWO 12mm bolts at rear of the straps almost to the end of the long bolts, not all the way. (OPTIONAL: Make a small ramp strong enough to hold, not wider than the straps, 10 or-so inches high and about the length of the gas tank, similar to a parking ramp/repair ramp). SIXTH, push up on both rear 12mm bolts to unlatch the tank, hold tank steady with your arms, then slide it down the ramp slowly making sure you disconnected everything properly. SEVENTH, Pull the pump out slow and pay attention to how the STRAINER comes out and is going to go back in!!!!!! Positive is usually a 7mm in the front of the pump under the cap. Negative is usually an 8mm.

A submarine sinks as it fills its' ballast tanks with water. Then it uses pressurized air to empty them and float again.

Not if it,s plumbed right,

You should never have to cut into the pool plumbing to drain a pool. Rent a portable sump pump to do the job. Be certain where you drain the water making sure it does not go onto a neighbors property or that it will not wash out a hill side. Also beware, some cities do not allow draining pools into the street, the sewer, vacant lots etc.

k

I used Autolite spark plugs in my Mark VII. Autolite is the retail version of the factory Ford part. Same as ACDelco and GM. Im sure you've seen tons of different plugs out there and some of them are great I like at bosch platinum plugs but they are a waist of money unless 1) your car came with platinum plugs 2) You have or are planning ignition system upgrades. But for a stock car use factory plugs. Also make sure the plugs are gapped correctly. Even pre-gapped plugs, Ive seen pre gapped plugs almost .015 off the gap.

Objects sink in water because they are denser than water, not necessarily because they are heavier.