Ford Escape XLS

the proper torque is 20 ft. lbs. the proper torque spec for a freesyle is 20 ft. lbs. That is what the factory calls for

check out www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces ) click on Owner Guides The owners manual can be viewed on-line ( currently back to 1996 Ford models )

8mm is metric size for bolt
125 pitch is the number of threads per inch

If it's the same as the 2004, the manual gives the answer. Take out the glove compartment door and you'll see the filter behind it

You first have to make sure if the shaking is occurring only with the vehicle itself or with the brakes or gas pedal. It could be various reason. I can only help by sharing what I know from my experience I had recently.

I recently had some car issues with my 94 Accord. Whenever I acclerated between 60-73 mph my gas pedal and car would shake. This even occured when I Brake my car within that speed zone as well. The shaking that occured while I was braking was due to my front rotors. It simply needed to be changed. I asked a second mechanic for his opinion. (I didn't trust the guy at Brake Master. I came out with more problems for my car after the free brake check) While my car was jack up ( I was present under my car) the mechanic showed me that my axis (or was it my axel) was loose. He tugged on it and it moved. The bearings was cracked as well. Since this part of my vehicle was not stable, my car shakes when I accelerate. I am not a mechanic so please correct me if I am wrong. God Speed on finding the actual problem. Sometimes the best thing to do is go to a trustworthy mechanic and get it checked up.

It is in the center console

The fuse box.

There isn't one. But it would be behind the glovebox if there was one.

the two bolts, one on each side of the egr valve.

Indicates the barrels were made by twisting wire around a mandrel then welding.

Yes, that is a very simple explanation of how Twist steel barrels were manufactured; but does not answer the original posters question of "What does 'New Twist' mean on the top of a 12 gauge Syracuse Arms shotgun?"

Prior to, and for several years after the turn of the last century; most shotgun gun barrels were made by wrapping alternating strips of iron and steel (called ribands) around a steel bar called a mandrel. These alternating bands of iron and steel were heated to a red-hot state; then, as workers wrapped these ribands around the mandrel, other workers pounded these two materials with hammers so the the combination of heat and force fused them together to form a hammer weld.

The simplest, and least expensive barrel tubes made in this manner were called "Plain Twist"; which tubes consisted of one untwisted riband of alternating steel and iron. Barrel prices went up from that point, as the makers of these barrel tubes were very skilled at twisting these ribands into elaborate patterns; which "patterned" ,or figured barrels were then named "Damascus". The lease expensive Damascus barrel tubes might have a pattern created by twisting together only two ribands; with the cost increasing in direct relationship to the numbers of ribands used, and the number of times these ribands were twisted together. These barrels were often referred to as "figured steel", with the figure, or pattern being revealed by the "browning" or barrel finish process; the iron bands would finish darker, color wise, that than the steel bands, allowing the intricate whorls and curls to be revealed. The makers of these barrels created some incredibly intricate and fine Damascus steel barrels, with the master makers so skilled that they learned to twist these iron and steel ribands into words. There is one example of a Remington Grade EE 16-bore double that has the word "Remington" repeated over and over throughout the full length of each barrel tube; and there is a Belgium maker, Pieper, who ordered a set of Damascus barrels featuring the Pieper name for the full length of those special barrel tubes.

With guns manufactured by the Syracuse Arms Company, the type of barrel steel used indicated gun quality and price. The term "New Twist" was the barrel steel name the company assigned to the Plain Twist barrel tubes used on their lowest grade double barrel shotguns; which name began to be roll-stamped atop the barrels around serial number 8,000 (earlier models have no barrel steel identifiers). Most Syracuse guns having New Twist barrels will be Grade O guns ($30 suggested retail, with the most expensive Grade D SAC gun retailing at a whopping $475.00!). SAC grade stamps will be found on the water table of the frame, and also on the barrel flats; but New Twist barrels can/will also be found on the Syracuse Grade 1 gun (discontinued around 1896, and identical to the Grade O gun in materials and finish, but with a small amount of scroll engraving on the gun frame; the Grade 1 retailed at $35), and on a few of the seldom seem Syracuse hammer double guns made in late 1904 and into early 1905 when SAC gun production ceased.

Unless one of the rare high grades, or a low-grade that remains in virtually new condition; Syracuse guns have little collector interest or value, and the Grade O gun is by far the most common with surviving examples seldom bringing more that $200-250 at auction. That said I have seen one Grade O SAC gun that remained 95% new, and the factory finishes on that gun were stunningly beautiful; based on that example it was no mystery as to why the company sold so many Grade O guns.

THE HEX BOLT SIZE IS 3/8 AND YOU CAN GET ONE AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORE FOR AROUND $5.00

Since you'll need to take it in for an alignment afterward, just have an alignment specialty shop do it for you. It will save trouble and tires.

If it's in the same place as a DX, which I believe it is, then it is behind the glove box. All you have to do is remove the stops on the glove box, let it go all the way down, and the filter is right behind.

They are hard to get at on the bottom of the rad. I find it easier to remove one end of the lower hose to drain the system; plus, you don't have to worry about breaking off the plastic petcock on your radiator. I hope this helps you. Mark

First of All Get a Engine Diagostics and see if there are any problems and fix them from a Prof Machenic If your car has not been tuned then change the spark plug, spark plug wires, fuel line filter. If this does not solve then change the distributer cap. That should solve the basic prolems of Shaking engine. Also check for the engine oil levels from time to time for the exhaust smell. (if car is old do put the engine oil treatmet like MOTOR UP, and other...which are available in the market)

i have a 2001 escape with a bad back lite. It is an easy replacement. I found the following description to be accurate.

Set the hand brake, put the shift lever in low, drop the steering wheel to its lowest position, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove 2 screws from the cluster bezel and pull it out. Remove 4 additional screws from the cluster and pull it out far enough to disconnect 3 electrical connectors on back. Remove the cluster and remove the bulb behind the odometer display by twisting its holder and pulling. Install a new bulb in the existing holder or get a new bulb with holder. Installation is the reverse. No scan tool is required. The odometer mileage is held in non-volatile memory and won't change.

Open the liftgait and it is above the right rear tail light. there should be a cap that covers. Remove cap and fill. Evelyn

When you look at the engine from the front you will notice that one side is slightly more forward than the other. The plug closed to the front of the car is the #1 plug.

Itt is not a hard job. Simply remove the vacuuum line then the 2 bolts that hold it on. Clean the carbon from the manifold where it bolts. Replace the vvalve and instaall the vac line. GoodluckJoe

Hey Tina==It is a burned out bulb that is the problem. Find out if it is front or rear and take the light assy off and change the bulb from the rear. If you told me what kind of car you have and model, I may could have been more specific. GoodluckJoe If you have a W126 and your left marker lights stay on, try twisting your headlight switch clockwise one click, to the "off" position.

Bad Head Gasket. See a mechanic ASAP..

There are several signs of a faulty PCV valve. The most specific indicators are oil in the air filter or leaking around the seals and gaskets. More general signs are rough engine idle, decrease engine performance, decrease in acceleration, loss of power, and bad fuel economy.