Ford F-350

The curb weight of a 1975 Ford F-350 typically ranges from about 4,500 to 5,500 pounds, depending on the specific configuration and options. Variations in body style, engine choice, and additional features can influence the exact weight. It's important to consult specific documentation or sources for the particular model you are interested in for precise figures.

The fuel injectors in the Chevy 4.3L and 5.0L engines are not the same and typically have different part numbers and specifications. While they may share some similarities in design, the flow rates and electrical characteristics can vary between the two engine models. It's essential to use the correct injectors specified for each engine to ensure optimal performance and fuel efficiency. Always consult the manufacturer's specifications or a service manual for precise information.

Ah, finding the block heater cord on your 2011 Ford Edge is like discovering a hidden treasure! It's usually located near the front grille or behind a panel near the front bumper. Take your time to explore gently, and remember, there's no mistakes, just happy little discoveries along the way.

A 1960 Ford F100 body could potentially fit onto the frame of a late model Ford F-150. However, modifications would likely be necessary due to differences in frame dimensions, mounting points, and suspension setups between the two vehicles. It is recommended to consult with a professional mechanic or body shop to assess the feasibility and potential challenges of such a project.

It's important to communicate and ensure that both parties are comfortable and consenting. You can initiate by expressing your desires verbally or through body language, and gauge the person's reactions to proceed further. Respect their boundaries and always prioritize mutual consent throughout the interaction.

The oil capacity of an 8.2 L Detroit Diesel engine can vary depending on the specific model and configuration. However, as a general guideline, the oil capacity for this engine is typically around 10-12 quarts. It is important to consult the owner's manual or contact the manufacturer for the exact oil capacity for your specific engine model. Overfilling or underfilling the oil can lead to engine damage, so it is crucial to ensure the correct oil level is maintained.

I think the Chevy 4.3L (262 ci) I could be wrong here

Largest displacement in truck use: GMC 478. 478 cubic inches. ~7.8L

Largest V6. EMD 645 was made in a small run in V6 for Victorian Railways Y class. 645 cubic inches per cylinder 2 stroke diesel.

The load carrying capacity of a 2001 Ford F350 Crew Cab can vary depending on the specific model, trim, and bed size. However, typically, the F350 Crew Cab has a payload capacity ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 pounds. It is recommended to consult the owner's manual or contact a Ford dealership for the exact payload capacity of a specific vehicle.

To be used in an emergency or when you are broke down on the highway. The flashing lights warn other drivers that your car is not moving. This helps prevent an accident. The were originally called emergency flashers for a reason.

There is 42 gallons of crude oil in a barrel. This oil is refined into several different products including gasoline, diese fuel, jet fuel, etc. Each 42-gallon barrel produces approximately 44.2 gallons of refined products. The approximately 5% increased represents a "processing gain." With that said, 52,000 gallons of diesel fuel would be produced from approximately 49,412 gallons of crude oil. The formula is: 42 gal crude oil yields 44.2 gal refined fuels

49412 gal crude oil yields 52000 gal diesel fuel crude oil * 1.05 = refined fuels

where crude oil is X,

X * 1.05 = 52000

X = 52000 / 1.05

X = 49412 gals of crude oil

Tarmac is an oil-based product; the binder is a heavy tar or bitumen and as such, it can be 'thinned' by the addition of a lighter oil, such as paraffin, petrol or even turpentine. Many automotive oils, such as petrol, diesel or even brake fluid, can 'dissolve' the binder of a tarmac and there's no way of 're-sticking' the aggregate back together. Further, the contaminating oil will seep and spread, degrading all the tarmac that it contacts. Given a few days, a petrol leak will 'eat' its way through a 75mm thick tarmac driveway; a screwdriver or stiletto heel will easily penetrate the previously 'set' surfacing and before long, the now unbound aggregate will begin to be scattered everywhere. And once a hjole appears in a tarmac surface, it just gets bigger and bigger as the edges 'crumble'.

contact valmont at http://www.valmont.com if you bought an irrigation system from them, they should supply you with an extra. or you could go to an authorized valley dealer and order one maybe, or they might have a few extra. contact valmont at http://www.valmont.com if you bought an irrigation system from them, they should supply you with an extra. or you could go to an authorized valley dealer and order one maybe, or they might have a few extra.

The Pressure Feedback EGR valve on a 1994 Mercury Topaz is typically located on or near the intake manifold. It is usually mounted on the side of the engine and connected to the exhaust gas recirculation system. You may need to consult the vehicle's service manual for the exact location.

There could be several reasons for this issue. It could be due to a problem with the fuel system, such as a clogged fuel filter or dirty fuel injectors. It could also be related to issues with the ignition system, such as faulty spark plugs or a failing ignition coil. If the problem persists, it is best to have the truck inspected by a mechanic to diagnose and address the issue.

where is the vin located on a ford f350 frame 1989

my new uniroyal tires have alphabetic mfr date

4.5 quarts.

take the pin out of the rear diffrential and the axle should come out

Usually it will need to be primed. This is done either by: Removing the fuel filter and filling it with diesel (if the filter will hold it's fuel while reinstalling), then reinstall the filter and turn over the motor until it starts. Spraying ether or diesel engine starting fluid into the engine's air intake helps considerably. Don't crank the starter more than 45 seconds continuously and give the starter a break once in awhile or it may burn out or temporarily shut itself off. Or: As above, remove the fuel filter and fill it with diesel (if it will hold it's fuel while reinstalling) and reinstall the filter. Look for the primer pump, it is usually near the filter or fuel pump along the fuel line and may have a red knob. Usually the knob is knurled for grip when turning it. Turn the knob, counter-clockwise until you can pull out (not remove) the small piston it is attached to. Pump the piston in and out until it appears soaked with fuel (this may take several minutes, especially if the filter cannot be filled beforehand), push it back into place and and tighten the knob. Try to start the motor. Ether or diesel engine starting fluid sprayed into the air intake may be helpful. Don't crank the starter more than 45 seconds continuously, and let it cool off occasionally.

I have a 1992 and would think they would be close to the same. Here is what I remember.

First I had to remove the trim from around the dash. I took a small flat head screw driver to carefull pry it up. It will most likely have plastic prongs going from the trim into the dash. Becareful and also look around the dashboard up close to the speedometer area once you take the outer trim loose. There should be about 5 to 6 screws holding the panel in place. Remove the screws from this piece which should have been revealed after you removed the outer trim. From there I believe you should be able to see the cavity that the radio sets in. There will be two screws or bolts opposite each other that hold the radio in place. Take them out the radio will slide right out of the dash.

I assume you need bearings replaced? I can't think of any other reason someone would want to torture themselves working on this vehicles front-end. It is a rugged, but never-the-less problematic, bit of engineering. I own 2, and despite contemplating suiside every time I need to work on them, I love these trucks very much and I would buy another if I had the need. This is not an easy or quick job and the potential for big mistakes is high for a novice mechanic. It should only be attempted by a really good amateur mechanic or professional. I would pay someone to do it who has done it several times if I needed to get it done again. But, if you feel confident then get a Haynes manuel, have a good memory, take some strong anti-depressants and take notes and digital pics as you go. The front hubs have a special nut that needs to be removed with a special round socket that has 4 nubs around the outside ring of it that fit in four holes on the large retainer nut. You need some patience and care with removing everything and re-assembling it all properly but that is the only special tool you need, besides a torx bit nut driver, which if you don't have you should get anyway for your toolbox. Get new wheel bearings grease seals and a small tub of good quality wheel bearing grease. Pressure wash inside and outside hub and fender area really well. and spray all bolts, nuts and hardware with brake-clean and then wd-40 or what-ever for any nut or bolt that can be seen or found. Use never-seize on anything going back in later that has threads or slides....everything!!. Dis-assemble slowly and carefully keeping track of the order of things and keep everything clean. You will need to fight with a retainer clip and a locking perforated washer set behind the large nuts in the hub. (This washer set has to go back in properly based on torque on the large nut and lock into place for re-installation to be successful). The outer bearing should be accessible, cleaned, tested, replaced or regreased and set into a zip-lock until needed. The whole hub has to come off for the inner bearing and by the time you get this far it should be apparent what you need to do...or you should never have started. Good cleaning and grease replacement goes a long way. Take your time and do it right or you'll have major problems. Good luck. Mark.

Start with adding 4 quarts after changing the oil & filter. Start the engine and run for a couple of minutes. Shut if off and wait 30 min. Add until it is full. You will now know the correct amount, which should be around 4.5 qts.

Connect a freon tank and gauge to the low side AC port. Start the engine and turn the AC on high. Open the freon valve. When the gauge reads full torn the valve off and unhook the gauge and tank.