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Ford F-350
The F-350 is part of the Ford F-series. The Ford F-350 Super Duty is the 2011 version of the Ford F-350. It is available in three body designs – regular cab, crew cab and extended cab.
4,328 Questions
Why won't a Ford 6.0 not start?
Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run
WHEN AN ENGINE WON'T START
Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one?
To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (Unusual noises slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem.
If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.
STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS
What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.
If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures.
If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit.
Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem.
ENGINE CRANKING PROBLEMS
If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps.
Measuring the voltage drop across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening.
Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps.
If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices.
If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.
Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.
If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.
An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature.
A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up.
A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings).
If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all.
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.
ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump
On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.
On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.
There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.
On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.
Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.
ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).
Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.
With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.
A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.
Powerstroke57
Wow all that and its all meaning-less!! only engine ford makes in a 6.0L is the diesel..... which is a very different beast. IT DOESN'T HAVE SPARK PLUGS!!!. Someone needs to do their homework before spewing all this gibberish. Basic issues for a 6.0L DIESEL crank no start is High pressure oil leaks, FICM (fuel injection control module), Fuel pump (not extremely common), And if its an 2003 and early 2004 with aluminum HPOP (High pressure oil pump) scratch the HPO leaks and go right to the HPOP or FICM. 2004-2007 have many HPO leak issues and is the most common we see, along with the FICM in all. Short sweet and 99% sure im right!! Wow all that above for nothing!! SHADE TREE'S good luck!
Phil G.
A no start on a 6.0L is pretty much always going to require decent scan tool software such as AutoEnginuity or Edge Insight or one of the professional ones . Like PS57 stated, they are no picnic to diagnose but a good 6.0L guy should pin point it pretty quick.
Oh, and disregard all the verbal diarrhea at the top. Someone just had a big week at school in Auto Shop 101.
How do you remove the golve box assembly on a 70 El Camino?
I had a '72 which should be the same. You have to remove the door, then a few screws that are around the front edges inside, then remove a duct behind it that keeps it from moving back (at least in mine that had A/C) .
It will then tilt down and in toward the firewall for removal.
Where do you find the rpm sensor on a 1991 f super duty 7.3 non turbo?
it is located to the right of where you poor your motor oil in.it looks like a 1 inch nut with 2 wires coming out of it.you need a 1 inch wrench to remove it but first unplug the wire harness.$80 for a new one from ford part number e5tz 17b384
If you are hearing a knock then you may need an overhaul. Run a compression test to verify wear on the rings and cylinder walls. A knock can also be worn piston pins, crankshaft rod bearings, or a cracked rod. This can be serious and needs attention ASAP. Now if what you are hearing is pinging, then that can be carbon buildup, or the timing may be off. ------------ Your problem could also be a stopped up fuel filter or a weak fuel pump. When you accelerate and the fuel pump cannot supply enough fuel, the engine will buck and ping and lose power. When you let up, the fuel flow is sufficient for the engine to run normally again. Start with checking/replacing the fuel filter.
What is the correct Ohm reading for the ICP Sensor on a 1995 Ford Powerstroke?
i want to know were the icp censor on a 1995 f 350 its located
How many gallons of gas does a 2007 expedition limited hold?
2007 expedition holds 26 gallond with an option of a 30 gallon tank
Where is the crank positioning sensor on a F350?
the cam positioning sensor is located on the front of the engine block, above the harmonic balance pulley. easiest to get at this from underneath the vehicle,and to change the snsor, nothing else needs to be removed to get at it.
Why does your 97 firebird Front turn signals both come on but don't blink?
did you look at your bulbs
How do you remove clutch slave on a 1997 F350?
The slave cylinder is inside the transmission on most models and can't be changed without first removing the tranny. It would be a wise decision to change the clutch at the same time as the job requires a lot of labor.
Why would the clutch pedal on a 1988 Ford F-350 stay on the floor so you cannot shift into any gear?
Pre 1997/9 models of Ford Vehicles were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.
If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.
If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.
In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure. There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.
1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on eBay etc.
2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
- Disconnect SPRING ON THE FOOT-PEDAL to release ratchet mechanism.
- Clamp cable slack (engine end).
How do you remove the factory stereo from a 2006 x trail Bonnavista?
Check this X-Trail Page.
http://www.runboard.com/baustralianxtrail.f34.t123884
Look for the "Audio Install Series II ST" link. It's not for the Bonnavista edition, but it will be similar.
What is the oil capacity of a Ford f350 v-8 engine?
FILTERS
Amsoil Oil Filter....EAO11
Wix Oil Filter.......51372
Oil Vapor Filter.....N/R
Amsoil Air Filter....EAA191
Wix Air Filter.......46418
Wix Fuel Filter......33296
Wix Trans Filter.....58968
Wix Cabin Filter.....24876
NGK PLUGS & WIRE SETS
IXIRIDIUM Plug......NGK3689 [1]
VPOWER Plug.........NGK4177 [2]
Wire Set............NGK58901 [3]
1. Plugs - SOHC
2. Plugs - SOHC
3. 8 CPBs Req'd
TRICO WIPER BLADES
Blade Class..|..Driver.....|..Passenger
Neoform.......|..T16200..|..T16200
Exactfit.........|..T201......|..T201
Winter..........|..T37205..|..T37205
Oktane.........|..20 inch...|..20 inch
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-20 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Signature Series Oil
All Temps......5W-20 [1]
Manual Transmission,6-SPD ZF S6-650.....MA5
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Automatic Transmission,5R110W.....MSP [2]
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Automatic Transmission,5R110W.....MSP [2]
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Differential, Front .....GL-5
All Temps......90
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Standard Differential, Rear Dana 135.....GL-5 [3]
All Temps......75W-140
Severe Gear 75W-140
SAE 80W-140 Synthetic Gear Lube
Controlled Slip Differential, Rear Dana 135.....GL-5* [3][4]
All Temps......75W-140
Severe Gear 75W-140
Standard Differential, Rear Dana 80.....GL-5 [5]
All Temps......75W-90
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Severe Gear 75W-110
Controlled Slip Differential, Rear Dana 80.....GL-5* [5][6]
All Temps......75W-90
Severe Gear 75W-90
Standard Differential, Rear Ford.....GL-5 [7]
All Temps......75W-140
Severe Gear 75W-140
SAE 80W-140 Synthetic Gear Lube
Controlled Slip Differential, Rear Ford.....GL-5* [7][8]
All Temps......75W-140
Severe Gear 75W-140
Standard Differential, Rear S110, S130.....GL-5 [9]
All Temps......75W-140
Severe Gear 75W-140
SAE 80W-140 Synthetic Gear Lube
Transfer Case,.....MA
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Torque-Driveâ„¢ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)
Transfer Case,.....MA
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Torque-Driveâ„¢ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)
Fluids
Power Steering Fluid.....MA5
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Brake Fluid.....HBH
Clutch Fluid.....HBH
1. Use Ford part no. XO-5W20-QSP or equivalent motor oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-H.
2. Mercon-SP is not interchangeable W/ Mercon, Mercon-V or Mercon Synthetic.
3. Synthetic oil is required.
4. Add 8 oz of friction modifier Ford part no. C8AZ-19B546-A or equivalent meeting Ford Spec EST-M2C118-A for axle refill
5. Synthetic oil is required.
6. Add 8 oz of friction modifier Ford part no. C8AZ-19B546-A or equivalent meeting Ford Spec EST-M2C118-A for axle refill
7. Synthetic oil is required.
8. Add 8 oz of friction modifier Ford part no. C8AZ-19B546-A or equivalent meeting Ford Spec EST-M2C118-A for axle refill
9. Synthetic oil is required.
CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Two-wheel drive
4-10 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LM
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2
Four-wheel drive
0-7 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LM
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2
CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........6.0 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........27.0 quarts
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Automatic Transmission, 4R100 Initial Fill..........6.5 quarts [2]
Automatic Transmission, 5R110W Initial Fill..........7.5 quarts [2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed 20 plate 4R100..........17.0 quarts
4 speed 26 plate 4R100..........18.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, 6-SPD W/ OCOOL..........13.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 6-SPD W/O OCOOL..........12.0 pints
Manual Transmission, 5-SPD ZF..........6.8 pints
Differential, Dana 135 Rear..........31.0 pints
Differential, with 10.5 ring gear Rear..........7.0 pints
Differential, Dana 80 Rear..........8.4 pints
Differential, Dana 50 Front..........3.8 pints
Differential, Dana 60 Front..........5.7 pints
Transfer Case,..........4.0 pints
1. When refilling, remove dipstick to provide adequate venting and allow oil to flow into crankcase.
2. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all gears. Check fluid level in PARK and add fluid as needed.
TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....10 ft-lbs
Transfer case NV271
Fill Plug.....20 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....20 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission ZF S6-650
Fill Plug.....26 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....26 ft-lbs
How do you change the injectors?
It would be most helpful if you said what year car and which engine you are asking about. There is quite a bit of difference between changing injectors on a 2.5L 4 cylinder engine and a 2.8L V6, there is also differences between the earlier V6 (1985-
1986 and the later 1987-1990) If you have the 2.5L 4 cylinder engine write back and I will write more specific instructions for that.
If you have the 2.8L V6 this may be of use to you.
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Since you may spill some gasoline it would be prudent to have a proper fire extinguisher nearby. Wear protective gloves. In case you spill gasoline you want to do this in a well ventilated area. I prefer out doors.
2.Remove the air duct between the air filter and the throttle body.
3. Unplug any electrical connections on the plenum and throttle body and make note of where they go so you can put them back.
4. Disconnect cables and vacuum lines as necessary from the plenum, note where they go.
5.Remove the plenum and sit aside.
6. Bleed off the gasoline pressure from the fuel rail. Use a rag to keep the fuel from spraying, dispose of the rag properly.
7. Remove the vacuum line from the pressure regulator.
8. Unplug the electrical connections from the fuel injectors. Make note of where each goes for replacement purposes.
9. Remove the bolts that hold the fuel rail in place.
10. Remove the fuel rail by pulling it up. The fuel injectors have a clip that holds them to the fuel rail. The bottom of the injectors will be tight in the intake manifold, it may take some prying to get them out.
11. Slide the clips out to remove the injectors from the fuel rail. They will also be tight to get out, may need to be pried out. Note their orientation.
12. Clean out the ports where the fuel injectors enter both the intake manifold and the fuel rail. Do not soak the fuel rail in cleaner solution.
13. Lightly coat the new "O" rings in engine oil and slip them onto the ends of the new/replacement fuel injectors. They will slide back in much easier than they came out.
14. Push the new injectors into the fuel rail in the correct orientation and slide the retainer clips back in place.
15. Position the fuel rail over the intake manifold and make sure all of the injectors are entering their respective ports, then push down into the ports.
16. Put the bolts back in that hold the fuel rail in place.
17. Put new "O" rings on the fuel lines and reattach the fittings. Reattach the vacuum line to the pressure regulator.
18. Attach a temporary ground to the battery and turn the ignition on. The fuel pump should come on and build up pressure. Check for fuel leaks both in the fuel lines and the fuel injectors. Any leaks noted should be repaired at this point.
19. Remove the temporary ground, turn off the ignition.
20. Reattach the electric plugs to the fuel injectors.
21. Put the plenum back on with new gaskets and reattach cables, electrical fittings and vacuum hoses. Put the battery ground back in place last.
22. At this point everything should have been put back in place. Start the engine. There will be some air in the fuel rail and injectors so the engine may start hard and run rough until the air is replaced with gasoline. Check again for leaks, the smell of gasoline. Use an appropriate fuel pressure gage to measure the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. It should be about 45 psi. Use a rag to catch any fuel lost attaching the pressure gauge. Dispose of rag properly. Pressure will be a little lower at idle. If the pressure is too low or if the pressure drops when the ignition is shut off it can be an indication of a leak. Remove the fuel pressure gauge, again use a rag to catch leaks, dispose of rag properly.
I hope this will help.
What is the oil capacity for a 1995 f350 with a 7.3liter diesel?
According to the AutoZone website :
For a 1995 Ford F-350 , 7.3 liter turbo diesel engine :
With engine oil filter change :
( 13.9 U.S. quarts )
Where can I find a Hifonics vulcan VII wiring diagram?
http://www.maxxsonics.net/manuals/hifonics/pdfs/hf_SERIESVII.pdf
Page 9
Where is iat sensor located on 7.3 leater diesil?
There is actually 2 intake air temperatures sensors on the 7.3 powerstroke. One is located around the area of the air filter housing, this is the sensor used to control the idle, which is why your truck will begin to idle higher at extended idles at cold temperatures. The second one is found inline with your intercooler, just after it. This one is the Manifold Intake Air Temperature Sensor, this one is used to control timing and fuel delivery.
What does it mean if the overdrive light flashes in your 2002 ford F350?
I have a 2002 F350 and my OD light came on, that was 3 transmissions ago... by default the fords are in OD, you have to turn it off when towing. Never tow without turning the OD off first. My experience was that the trans was burned up, and the light kept flashing, or You might be exceeding the speed for being in OD.
Were is the fuel water seperator located on a 6.0 turbo diesel?
The fuel water separator is located on the frame rail with the fuel filter, you should drain the water and replace the Filter on the frame rail and the filter on top of the motor if your water in fuel sensor light comes on...
How do you take out a stock stereo in a Cavalier?
Good luck. I know in a '98 you have to take out the dash...
