Below and to the left of the steering wheel , by the brake pedal
If your real lucky $50.00, depending on how the job goes and what you potentially could run into-$2000.00? Depends also on if your doing it or a shop.
well the part alone, aftermarket, should cost around $50 or so, depends on what you get, and the labour might be an hour, i dont see it taking long than that. now the price always depends on which shop you take it to. some shops charge 50 bucks and hour, some charge 109 bucks an hour, catch my drift.
shop around good luck
If it's the base Sedan Deville with the 4.9 liter, it's 5 quarts with the filter. For the Deville Concours with the Northstar, it's 7.5 quarts with the filter.
flat screwdriver,a malot, and a piston compression tool or a c- clamp what you have for availability. Four wheel drive hubs require a large socket available from parts stores, you'll need snap ring pliers, some type of pick to get the parts out. You'll have to drive out the wheel bolts from the hub/rotor. Make sure you keep every thing in the order it came off. Also, locktite the caliper bolts. Fords have a bad habit of these bolts backing out.
Use a C clamp that carpenters use to hold pieces of wood together. Put the solid part of the clamp on the back of the caliper and the screw part inside the piston and tighten the piston back into the bore.
it is over 8600 gvw I solved the po\roblem myself first the ignition module tested bad replaced it ran better but it still died after warming up so i changed the pickup in the distributor and now it doesnt die any more
The tail light on my 2005 Freestyle is held in position in 4 places. There are two large Phillips screws that secure the rear of the tail light assembly, which can be accessed and removed with the tail gate open. The front of the tail light assembly is held in with two clips. These clips can be seen if you look at the side of the car near the front part of the assembly (on my car, there was one black one and one white one. They almost look like screws or bolts, but they aren't.
First, I removed the two Phillips screws. With the screws removed, slide the whole tail light assembly straight to the back. The two clips on my car were VERY tight. I had to carefully rock the whole assembly while pulling straight back. If that does not work insert a screw driver in the gap at the front of tail light assembly and pry toward the back (make sure to use a rag between the screw driver and the paint). I replaced both turn signal lamps, and both tail light assemblies required a fair amount of force to brake free of the clips.
To access the bulbs, twist the bulb socket a quarter turn, then pull straight out. The bulbs can be removed from the sockets by pulling them straight out.
Reverse the process to re-assemble. It goes back together very easily.
Excellent advice and worked for me. My rear bumper was replaced after a fender bender and the paint scratched slightly below the tail light as it was removed (some pressure is required to release the clips). The factory paint may be more robust, but a rag should be placed on the bumper for protection under the tail light assembly, as it is pulled straight back. This will also protect the bumper as the assembly wants to sit on it as you replace the bulbs.
if it is the front you need to take out the entire headlight assembly. if it is the rear opne your liftgate you will see three screw, take them out, replace the bulb inside i think it's the middle bulb, shouldn't run you that much..
I removed the ignition coils, that gave me a hole big enough to reach down to the back plugs throught the top.Answeri changed mine in my 96 grand am v6 in 10 minutes you can get them all on back from driver side by the brake booster or you can remove the alternator and get direct access to all 3 on the back side
It can be done without doing this, but the easiest way is to tilt the engine forward.AnswerI have a 96 grand am gt 3.1 I just changed plugs and wires yesterday not really that hard to get to.
I have a 2006 Ford 500 and am having problems with my cruise control. I can set it but it only holds for maybe 5 minutes then shuts off and may or maynot reset. I have replaced my front rotors with aftermarket rotors does this have an effect? Can you help me resolve this issue. Thank you
The popularity of front wheel drive cars in the 1980s and all season tires mostly eliminated the sale and use of tire chains. By the 90�s the popularity of SUV�s, all wheel drive, and electronic computer managed traction control almost completely eliminated the need for tire chains.
The Ford Freestyle with all wheel drive is a pretty capable car in the snow, and if conditions are bad enough that you can�t get around, it may be time to stay home. Tires with more aggressive tread then the tires Ford provided might be a consideration. Otherwise, read your owner�s manual for recommendations regarding the use of chains. It may simply say you should never use chains, give you some basic pointers, or not address the topic. Assume that if the topic is not addressed, that Ford probably hasn�t recommended the use of tire chains since the death of the Country Squire wagon in the late 1980�s.
See page 189 in the owners manual:
"Use only SAE "S" class cables or equivalent on the front axles for P215/65R17 equipped vehicles."
There's more on page 189.
Walk outside, get down and look under the vehicle and count them.
I own a 2007 freestyle, very simple when you are holding the reset you will first see "oil life hold to reset" the next statement is "hold to reset oil" you actually have to release the reset button for 1 second and then hold to reset button again and then it will reset to 100%
I did this with the engine off. The free owners manual is at www.motorcraftservice.com
I guess the confusing part is the readout is telling you to hold when you actually have to release for one second! "who is the MAN!!!
On my 2005 Ford Freestyle:
The previous answer (which may apply to other Fords or other Freestyles) was:
On all 02+ Ford's you simply punch the "Setup" button. Once that is done, it will ask you to press Reset to Clear, press setup again. It should say, "Change Oil Life reset New" or something on those lines. Hit the "Setup" key once more, and it will say "Hold to Reset Oil Life". Hold reset, and the oil like will be reset to 100%. Once that is done, shut off the car, restart it and check that it worked.
If it didn't work, mess with the settings until you get it to work.
Here is how it is really done!
The first answer is generally used by Toyota not Ford. To reset the oil change light, the odometer/trip button has nothing to do with it unless it is a Toyota. For a Ford Freestyle 2006, on the steering wheel you will find a button that says "Setup". If the steering wheel is sitting straight then the button is on the right side of the steering wheel (not on the horn but the right side of the steering wheel). Turn the key to "on" but don't start the vehicle. Next press the Setup button. From there read the odometer display & it will guide you how to reset the Oil change light. Usually, you will keep hitting the Setup button until you see the oil status which for most of you is going to be 0%. Next you will be ask to hold the reset button located right next to the setup button on the right side of the steering wheel. Go ahead & hold the reset button until the oil percent changes from 0% to 100%, then you are done.
It is located underneath the car, below the passenger-side center-row seats.
Run another dedicated hot wire to the drivers window switch. This will provide power to that window no matter if the driver cuts the power or not.
If it just needs brake pads they are only around twenty dollars plus labor if done for you.
try a new coilpack assembly ,,it worked for me I had a similar problem on my 87 Century 3.8l. My Cam Position Sensor was overheating which changed the voltage and kept the car from running. I diagnosed it by pouring some cold water on the sensor when the vehicle wouldn't start and when it did I knew it was that sensor. It could also have been the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I would have chilled it next to determine this. I would also test that the the Fuel Pressure is accurate. My fuel pump worked intermittently causing the car to be hard starting when hot. ( I replaced the fuel pump and then found out about the sensors.) Good Luck!
Its located on the passengers side of the vehicle............
Many vehicles have a 'child safety lock' in the back seat that prevents young children from opening the doors. Check your owner's manual. Some have a physical latch to turn to disengage. Others have a menu setting in the electronics that can be programmed.
If they open from outside and not inside the child locks are probably on. open the door and look around the lock .
the proper torque is 20 ft. lbs. the proper torque spec for a freesyle is 20 ft. lbs. That is what the factory calls for
If you have a CVT this is not a dipstick. Unfortunately, you have to go to Ford, your mechanic or change the oil yourself at the recommended interval.
2 or 4X4? Was it ordered with a towing package? 2 door or 4 door?
6000 =7500 pounds with the proper equipment and up to 10,000, limited to proper hitch of class 3 or 4, trans cooler and stiffer springs and shocks designed for towing. For light towing a class 3 hitch and trans cooler is a must to prevent damage. ( sprint helper are cheap and a good bet to help stability) Don't forget your brakes system always tow a trailer that has it's own brakes if it weighs more that half the weight of the tow veichle.
Usually you can find the switch on the doors themselves. Open the door and look on the part near the latch. Sometimes, there is a switch by the driver if the car has power locks.