Ford Ranger XL

remove reservoir cap and pump pedal until air bubbles rise. Liquid is heavier than air. AIR WILL RISE. there's got to be a bleeder valve somewhere, look to see if maybe the head of the bleeder got broken off (it happens, it sucks), otherwise it isn't a perfect bleed but disconnect the line, fill the cylinder with clean fluid and wait for fluid to start coming out of the hose, then quickly reattach the hose

most BMW fuel pumps are inside the gas tank.! lift out the carpet in the trunk and see if you can find a cover plate that has small nuts holding it on. that's the place. Also a note. the filter is on bottom of the car, behind pass. tire and in front of the gas tank. bolted to the frame. Also the pump relay may be at fault. It is under the front hood on the Pass side, inside a cover held on by screws. the fuel pump relay is Blue or light green. the white one is the "main" one. It has to work to make the fuel pump relay to work when starting the car with the key. To test the pump, Read diagram on fuel pump relay and use jumper wire to close the switch and if pump works you can hear it running in the trunk at that cover plate.

There are 3 on each side of the engine. Once you take off the metal covers there will be a black rubber sleeve you will need to remove and they are down in there.

This is a questions that causes a lot of debate and often arguments. The short answer is "Yes". But there are a number of factors to consider.

1. What condition is the engine in? If the engine has broken components, excessive wear etc, then it is very unlikely that any additive is going to help. (Having said that, I did once repair a badly broken head gasket with an additive)

2. What type of additive are you using? There are alot of brands out there and some of them are definitely 'snake oils'.

3. What sort of oil leak is it? If it's minor then a good additive will most likely assist.

4. What are the side effects (if any)? Most 'oil leak' type products work by thickening the oil in your engine. Thicker oil is harder for the engine to push around and therefore more strian is added therefore leaks are more likely to recur.

In 40+ years of driving on four continents and a dozen countries; and having owned a variety of cars from brand new to old 'clunkers', I have formed certain opinions. These are only opinions. I do have some formal training in motor mechanics and one of my past professions involved motor cars. This oes not make me an expert.

I have found that a product called XADO works quite well on older high milage engines. It does do pretty much what is says without problem side effects (except that it now runs a little rich). But this was in my engine which may have different causational (there's a word that doesn't exist) problems to yours. I have found that Many of the Wynns products have some effect if the motor is not too bad. You could also have a look to see if the sump nut is tight or needs a seal washer. Also checkk that the oil filler cap is on tighly and the dip stick fully in its slot.

The 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer's engine produces 120 hp @ 5500 rpm.

See related link. Its not an Echo, but close enough.

The blinker relay is under the dash, on the passenger side of the steering column. It is under a black cover with a small number of fuses.

Check the fuel filter and catalatic convertor.

Torque in this sequence: Torx and 15mm headed bolts - 30ft lbs. The 7, 10 mm hex nuts - 5 ft lbs. The 7, hex head bolts - 5ft lbs. Take note not to overtighten as this will damage the timing cover.

You can not just change the ball joint , you have to replace the whole lower control arm with ball joint.

Those mods should gain you about 10-15 horsepower assuming a few things. 1) that the cold air intake is actually a cold air intake and that it's not just a cone air intake pulling air directly from the engine bay 2) that the cold air intake still has the Mass Air Flow meter (MAF) intact 3) that the Flowmaster exhaust didn't render the o2 sensors inoperable making the PCM force the engine into limp mode. if all of the above are true you should put out a whopping 160 HP!

To remove the fuel line at the FUEL FILTER, you will need the small fuel-line disconnect TOOL from the Auto Parts store. It is not expensive and IS reusable. It looks similar to a pair of small wire strippers...but you insert the tool around the fuel line fitting (on the end closest to the engine) and depress it until the spring lock releases. It takes some patience to do and be careful you don't lose the little spring when it pops or falls out after unlocking the fuel line from the filter.

it is located right below the exaust manifold flanges above the catalitic converter

I f your problem is along the pipe itself, and not where the muffler and tail pipe join, then you do not have to weld as long it is a straight section of pipe. you can buy a kit to join them together. make a clean cut on both ends of the corroded section of pipe with a sawsall. the kit consists of a slightly larger diameter piece of pipe that connects both ends, along with two metal hose clamps. after putting the connecting part on, you tighten a clamp on each end.

no

Take off the 3 bolts that hold it in, get it out, its a bit tricky so use some force, then once you get it out, take the caps off and your there.

only the XLE AND LIMITED HAVE THAT AND WILL HAVE THAT SO GET THAT. I AM A PROUD OWNER OF A XLE LIMITED WITH ARTIC FROST PEARL. As far as I know the package number 11 (CM) on LE 8 seater had side airbags as an option. Check it out and correct me if my observation is wrong

I'll bet that engine has a lot of miles on it. I also would not be surprised to find out that it sometimes went 15,000 miles between oil changes. That might have caused the rings to score the cylinders, which allows blow-by under heavy load. And, it that engine does have a lot of miles on it, the valve stem seals are probably going bad, which means that oil can leak into the cylinders right after the engine is stopped. This oil burns slowly when the engine is started, producing heavy bluish-white smoke for a short time. It might be a good time to consider putting another engine in the vehicle, or jacking up the steering wheel and putting a new car under it. Very true, but the white smoke could also be a head gasket, or transmission related.

There's like 10 screws on top of the grill (under the hood) remove those and the three rubber seals. Grill surround is now just held in by I think like six clips. You will need to pry the clips apart from the top of the clip because their is a small plastic alignment pin on the plastic on the grill tabs. Be careful not to break the plastic tabs. That's it !!!

According to the Owner Guide ( page 169 ) your vehicle is capable of towing a trailer up

to 1000 pounds with a tongue weight of 100 pounds

(1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6) and if it has a distributor the rotation is clockwise for the 3.0 L V6 engine used in the Ford Ranger - (Helpfull)

Remove screws on either end of light housing. Remove brake light. Remove bulb. Using a cloth, place new bulb in socket. Replace brake light. Attach screws. bulb cost approx. $2.00 for a two pack of bulbs, beats having the dealer do it and charge you an arm and a leg :)

That depends on the courts caseload and the determination of the lender.

on the balencer there is a timing mark and om the motor theres a tab

there is also a mark on the cam gear, when lined up, both marks on the crank gear and cam gear point up.

On a 4.0 V-6 the crank position sensor is in a fixed location and cannot come in contact with the crank if it is installed correctly.