Ford Ranger XL

Located at the rear of the waterpump, under the inlet manifold

I have a ford focus 2001 hatchback and the problem seem to be a short circuit caused by the license plate lights. The fuse is burning when I'm turning the taillights on but if I take the license plate light fixtures out of the body of the car then the taillights are working. I'll try putting electrical tape around the metal parts of the license plate light and see if it's still burn the fuse (number 32, 10 amps).

It's between the 2 rear wheels , the bigger section in the middle is where the gears

are...

If you look up "REAR DIFFERENTIAL" in "GOOGLE IMAGES" it will show you what a diff looks like. then from the center rear of your truck bend down to your knees and take peak like stated above its the bigger section centerd between the 2 rear wheels, AKA pumpkin.

In a 2000 Ford Ranger the ( SuperCab body style ) holds ( 73.8 litres / 19.5 U.S.

gallons )

Why Thank you this means the world to me. - Thanks!

Please repost with the engine size (4cyl or V6) there should be an emissions label on the radiator (or close by) that has the firing order on it.

The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor can be found near the thermostat housing or close to where the upper radiator hose attaches to the intake manifold. Good luck.

Fuel pump and/or fuel filter. Check the fuel pressure on the engine-side of the fuel filter (located under driver's side cab, inside frame). If psi < 60, replace filter first and recheck. If psi still < 60, replace pump. ==egr==could be egr valve the tip of mine came off in my intake i had to start it with the egr off to blow the tip out!! took me a week to figure it out! also depress the egr valve and hold your thumb over the vaccuum nipple if the diaphragm stays up it is still good,..there should be a sealed tip on the egr (that goes into manifold) i didnt realise this until i compared it to a different one

I had to rebuild the TBI unit to cure this same problem with my 87 3/4 ton

There are long haul diesel engines on the road that have 1, 2, & even 3 million miles on them. Gasoline engines have been know to go 1 million miles.

It is located on the blocked above the starter. You must remove the starter to see it.

Mine does. Although, it is not equipped to play MP3 format disks. -RivermasterNC

Are you using motor oil for diesel engine API CH not (gas engine) API SJ,SL, or SM?

You cant just change the bulb, you have to change the whole headlamp.

Get her up in the air and see if she has the conventional set up. If regular shocks, should be bolted in on the top and bottom. Make sure replacement shocks look the same before removing the old ones, unless u have another vehicle. BE SAFE! Get a set of good jack stands and have a good selection of tools. If u do not have all this, take it to a shop and ask for mid grade or better shocks. Wear safety glasses while u are working under the vehicle and again, Safety First.

072311

I just completed this procedure and you should not attempt, unless you have a helper that has done this, or you have the workshop manual and are a skilled and patient home auto mechanic. This job is much more difficult than doing brakes because of the need for large sockets and open end wrenches ( 21mm, 24mm, 30mm), the need to compress the spring for removal and installation on the shock, and the need to manhandle the very heavy spring/shock assembly. I have a well stocked tool box and I still spent $100 just for tools I did not have. You also need a very good torque wrench as the shock absorber base is 350 ft-lbs. OK, I admit I just went to the max of my 250 ft-lb wrench..

You also need good skills working with rusted bolts and nuts, especially the top shock absorber holddown nut, and the hexholds. Note that compressing a truck spring is NOT FUN, its doable, but just takes a long time and lots of checking to uniformly compress and sufficient to remove and install. Consider placing the shock absorber base in a vice and compress the springs while on the absorber.

You also have to understand how to correctly rotate nuts on the two, relevant steering linkages as they have a hexhold feature to prevent the applied torque from damaging the linkage. If you did not understand this, do not pass go, go directly to your local brake service center. It took me 12 hours of very hard and frustrating work to do the right side and only three moderately strenuous hours to do the other side! Again, the spring-absorber assembly is like 50 lbs and its a tight fit.

The basic procedure below is just to illustrate that that there are relatively few steps. However, much information is not included, like torques, hexhold features, things that can go wrong, and tips to prevent scratched knuckles. Your spring supplier should loan you for free the spring compressor (outside version)

1) jack up the car and remove the tire

2) loosen the three shock absorber top nuts

3) detach the stabilizer bar at the lower arm

4) detach the tie-rod end at the wheel knuckle

5) Remove the shock absorber lower bolt.

6) Remove the spring/absorber assembly.

7) compress the spring until loose from the absorber.

8) Mark the relative location of the absorber top plate to the absorber for reassembly, as the top plate bolts are not symmetric, then remove the absorber top nut

9) Remove the absorber top plate, upper shock mount and dust tube.

10) Remove the (very heavy) spring.

10) To install reverse the procedure.

Note - the spring ends have to align properly into the absorber base plate and upper shock mount. Remember to properly align the top plate to the absorber, or you will have to do lots of rework, like recompress the spring (not fun..)!

Note - Do Note tighten the stabilizer bar nut until after you have completely lowered the wheel. When lowering the wheel, do it slowly and guide the stabilizer bar into its attachment.

11) Have the front end aligned.

For a 2005 Ford Ranger :

The fuel pump inertia switch ( shut off switch ) is in the front passenger

footwell , in the right corner , above the carpet but below the right side

of the glove compartment

Disconnect the - battery cable Raise and support vehicle Disconnect the wiring at the top of starter Remove starter mounting bolts Twist starter to remove

IT IS BEHIND THE FUSE BLOCK IN THE VEH COMPARTMENT.

Presumably you mean remove & replace the starter...rebuilding it, a bench job, is a bit complex and best left to a full shop of specialists. Actually a good novice type job. Fairly accessable...not normally too frozen in or such. Not much damage you can do either. A couple of bolts...a couple of wires...jiggle it out...reverse procedure on install. Best to disconnect battery...as when the wires touch you'll get sparks...no real chance of injury...but can make you jump. ....and while not needing many or any particularly special tools...you would need a good basic set of sockets, wrenches, extensions...that type of thing.

I'm not a mechanic / technician but I BELIEVE the fuel pump

inertia switch on a 1993 Ford Ranger is in the front passenger

footwell , under the front edge of the carpet , mounted on the

toe board just to the right of the transmission hump

The label on the drivers side door is 225 70 r14 for a 1993 ford ranger.

There are 2 electric fuel pumps. 1) Transfer pump in the tank. Easily accessed by removing the rear seat. AND-- 2) Under car in front of the drivers side rear wheel. Get a service manual for safety's sake!!!!!

It depends entirely on the vehicle manufacturer, year and model. Your best information would be in a shop manual of some kind or perhaps you could go to the dealer for that information.

We have been working on the headlights on my 1997 Cadillac Catera for about 3 weeks. They have not been right for about a year and we finally decided to take them apart and fix them. Bad idea! Even repalcing them has become a nightmare, as we can not find used ones that do not have broken adjusters, so we decided on JB Weld.....the assembly crumbled!

If it is in your budget, it may save you weeks of headaches to just go to Cadillac .com and order new ones, but be prepared to pay up to five hundred for a set. The Cadillac Corp. has, in the past, been very helpful in trouble shooting.

I love my Catera, but am not happy about this headlight problem. I wish you luck!

Mary We have been working on the headlights on my 1997 Cadillac Catera for about 3 weeks. They have not been right for about a year and we finally decided to take them apart and fix them. Bad idea! Even repalcing them has become a nightmare, as we can not find used ones that do not have broken adjusters, so we decided on JB Weld.....the assembly crumbled!

If it is in your budget, it may save you weeks of headaches to just go to Cadillac .com and order new ones, but be prepared to pay up to five hundred for a set. The Cadillac Corp. has, in the past, been very helpful in trouble shooting.

I love my Catera, but am not happy about this headlight problem. I wish you luck!

Mary

It must have a timing CHAIN because Gates ( they make timing belts etc. )

doesn't list a timing belt for the 2004 Chev Malibu 3.5 liter V6

It's in front of the battery, inside of the radiator support, between the left headlight and radiator. The module is flat with the 12 pin connector facing upwards (towards the engine). Hope this helps.