Ford Ranger XLT

There isn't one, you have to remove the pan to drain the fluid.

You will need to get the code from your nearest Ford dealer - for that, you need the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and the engine number! Go to the parts department desk at your dealer and ask for the radio code - the salesman will ask for the VIN - supply that and they will look it up on the computer and write it down for you!

Since it is so high mileage I think I would just pull the pan and change the 4-6 quarts that are in the pan and replace the filter. If you go to a place that flushes transmissions, I have known that with the new fluid the lining comes off of the fiber plates.

. use atf+4 from Chrysler dealer or it destroys the clutches.

Rewmove the door and window handles, then all of the screws you can find. Then with a special tool, remove the retainers on the sides and bottom of the panel. When all is loose, pull out on the bottom and push in on the top and lift the panel up to disengage from the door.

Go to the following website. It will show how to remove the door panel. http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000170.pdf

what is engine oil capicity of Mercedes e220 cd1.

is there spark to the plugs? is there fuel to the injectors? timing correct? check these things in order and deal with each one to find the answer. too many variables at this point, need to narrow it down

I'm not 100% sure, but try disconnecting both battery cables for 20 min. I know for sure that this works on older cars (I have done this on 1991 and 1993 Fords, etc...) hopefully it works for the new-gen 96+ computers.

You should be able to pop it off by inserting a small screwdriver along side the plastic lens and just pop it off, or a thin pocket knife

Try using a screwdriver to release the 2 clips in the front holding the unit (Not just the lenses) into the holder that's attached to the headliner. It's a 2 piece unit.

In the Underhood Fuseblock located in the Engine Compartment, just beside the Battery...

The fuse box is located on the left side of the steering column, appr. in front of your left knee undre the dashboard. It will tell you where the fuse is located & the Amp that the fuse is...

I know it sounds like a silly answer, but if you need to ask how.. your not ready to tackle the task.

To put it into basics

Drain radiator and remove

Remove electrical connections from motor

Remove hoses

Remove exhaust

Remove hood

Remove drive shafts

Support motor with hoist

Remove engine mount bolts

Lift motor and transmission out.

Hey Kulwant==It is probably the idle speed motor not reacting when a load is placed on the engine. Sometimes you can remove them and clean them and they will be ok. GoodlukcJOe

If The Timing Belt Turns The Camshaft, Which It Does. And The Belt Is Broken The Camshaft Will Not Open And Close The Valves . IT CAN NOT START OR RUN> No. It might start but wont run very well because it wont know when to fire with out the timing belt.

Shifter may need ajusting . Could also be a bad vaccuum switch (My 88 Wrangler had that problem)

If the tire locks up when you apply the brakes and you have drum brakes then you may have brake fluid leaking onto the brake shoes.

If you have ABS then you may have a bad wheel sensor.

The adjusters on the brake shoes are out of adjustment or broken.

Springs or hold down hardware may be broken.

Cracked brake linings.

Backing plates are worn out.

check the fluid level in the tank or radiator. Check the top radiator hose when the car is warming up, is it hot? If not it might just be your thermostat that needs to be replaced. Or it could be that your heater core is plugged up. You don't say how old a car this is in, some times you can take off the heater hoses and connect a garden hose to it and back flush it and get some of the junk out of it, just don't turn the hose all the way or out can blow a hole in the heater core, then you have a mess. If you are not handy, you can go to some place that power flushes the cooling system and that may fix it also. Just hope you don't have to get a new heater core as they are a pain to put in in most cars and costs a lot to have some else do it. The core doesn't cost much but the labor is a lot.

Typically, a turn signal that works on one end of the car, but not the other, is just a burned bulb. It's when one whole side works and the other doesn't that things get a little more involved. Some European cars will alert the driver when a bulb burns out, and temporarily disable that circuit until the bulb is replaced and the key cycled on to off and back to on.

I believe it was an option, so some models may have it while others don't. Hope that helps.

The Neutral Safety Switch on the 1997 Mazda 626 (and similar) is located behind the clutch petal arm. The petal is connected to the clutch master cylinder pushrod which goes through the firewall. Right below it is a little black box with a short white plastic rod sticking out of it touching the petal arm and a wire harness attached to the box. The box is the switch. The white rod is the spring loaded part of the switch that is thrown when you push on the petal. Two small bolts hold it in place. It is quite hard to get to and see. You will need to push the driver seat back all the way. A small flashlight or other lighting device is needed. You will be on your back, upsidedown, and in a fairly uncomfortable position. It is a non-serviceable item and should be replaced if it is defective. However, if one is careful it can be taken apart and cleaned. THE FOLLOWING SHOULD BE ONLY A TEMPORARY FIX AS IT BYPASSES THE SAFEFY MEASURE DESIGNED INTO THE CAR: If the rod is broken, it can be short ciruited to start the car by removing the spring and pushing in the remaining part of the rod.

Check your battery. Most likely the culprit is a dead battery. A quick check across its terminals with a voltmeter will tell you.

on a vacuum type booster there is usually a vacuum leak. either on the rubber line that runs from the booster to the engine, or a hole in the diaphragm inside the booster. the rubber line is easy and inexpensive to replace so i would check it first. if you have a hole in the diaphragm the only way to fix it is to replace the booster.

It is pressed on. You have to cut it off by cutting hte plastic knob. Once the knob is remove d use a propane touch to heat up the thick nut. Remove the nut with a pair of vise grips. You can now install an after market knob.

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I broke off the knob then I was able to use two wrenches to hold the bottom nut and unscrew the top one. From there I had to put a couple layers of duct tape on the shaft before I could put the plastic adapter that holds the new knob on to make sure it didn't move at all. It worked perfectly.

there are three oil galley plugs behind the timing chain, and three freeze plugs on each side of the block on the outside. One water drain on each side of the block on the outside. and three oil galley plugs on the back of the block, under the bellhousing/flywheel. and one oil galley crossover under the intake in the lifter valley.