Ford Transit

engine oil ford transit 2000 on is sae 30

The Ford Transit LWB hosts a 2.2L Duratorq TDCi engine. The Ford Transit LWB weighs approximately 1800 kilograms or 2 tons and has been produced since 2006.

They are adjusted with shims. Unless you have a supply of shims, this job is best left to a professional.

this is wrong you can adjust the valve lash with a feel gauge intake is .018 to .022

the exhaust is .023 to .027 all in mm make sure the car is cold when you adjust the setting on the valve lash. the order to adjust the valve is when it is at rest

The 2015 Ford Transit-VAN is 18 ft. 3.9 in. (219.9 in.) long.

The most common leak points on a fiesta depend on which engine; the old 8 valve lumps tend to seep around the rocker cover & by the drive-shaft seal. Neither is an expensive fix and usually will not empty the sump any faster than about 2 weeks of hard driving so can be added to the next scheduled service

You can pull up to your max gross train weight.

dunno but on a 2.5 it's located (as you stand looking at the engine) near the front on the left hand side,

On any built in the last 10 or 15 years it is a setting inside the engine control computer.

HI Renew the speedo cable

its under the pull out tray on the passanger side on the top of the dash in a black box just lift the lid off the box and you will be able to see it

they are not normal fuses tho they are a smaller fusebut your local auto store should stock them its under the pull out tray on the passanger side on the top of the dash in a black box just lift the lid off the box and you will be able to see it

they are not normal fuses tho they are a smaller fusebut your local auto store should stock them

yes, 1 is in the engine compartment, and 1 is in the footwell above the accelerator pedal

Easy. Tools needed: 15/16 or 1 inch spanner (can't be 100%sure)

14 or 17 mm ring/open ender spanner (same, can't be 100% sure) Crack off the "outer" nut of the adjuster of the desired belt you wish to changer. Turn the "inner" to back off the tension. Remove belt. To put the new belt on just slip the belt on. To adjust, just turn the inner part of the adjuster and lock it up by holding the inner part firm and locking the outer nut. Done. Obviously if you have to change any of the inner belts you will have to do this procedure with all the belts cos their all the same setup. Check the tensioner bearing whilst the belts are off for noise. Replace bearings if necessary.

The curb weight of the 2012 Ford Transit-Connect is 3360 lbs..

spanner has a number next to it of how long until you require a service spanner has a number next to it of how long until you require a service

The height of the 2014 Ford Transit-Connect is 6 ft. 0.5 in. (72.5 in.).

In my opinion, removing the front subframe makes this job much easier.

Jack up and suitably support the front of the car so it is in a wheels free state.

With wheels removed;

* Remove the anti-roll bar drop links from the anti-roll bar

* Free off the lower arm ball joints off

* Remove the track rod ends from the swivel hubs

* Remove the nut and bolt and special clip on the lower steering column universal joint * loosen off and disconnect the feed and return pipes to the power ram (beware stinking power steering fluid pouring everywhere!) Steering and suspension wise, the subframe should be free!

* Remove the nut and bolt that secures the lower engine mounting to its bracket (the bolt that goes through the big round rubber mount at the back of the engine) * Disconnect all relevant gear linkage rods (this will be clear when you are under there!) * Support the subframe with a jack or somesuch and free off the 6, 18mm bolts that secure the subframe to the body shell. * remove all subframe mounting bolts. * lower the jack that is supporting the subframe, it should all drop quite nicely and then get stuck on the steering column universal joint! A good old college shove frees this and then you should be able to remove your subframe assembly from under the car. I preferred doing it this way, it takes longer but it is so much easier! It also exposed a lot of potential ball aches on my car, a loose coolant pipe, a knackered exhaust manifold stud, a worn gear linkage rod. The car feels much better for it, I also took the time to paint my antiroll bar bright red. Ahh yeah!

Being able to work on the subframe in a warm garage with a cup of tea on hand was worth the extra time to me!

Open the rear doors and on the inside rear corners there are 2/3 finger nuts which are removed so the light unit should fall out the rear on the van (maybe with a tap from inside), there maybe small covering plates fitted to access the thum nuts. On the back of the lense there are clips which are squeezed to pop out the bulb holder.

Hope this helps,

B Paice

A 017 battery normally costing around £79.95

The oil filter on a 2001 Ford Transit is located underneath the front of the vehicle. The covering isÊmade of both metal and plastic and is attached to the engine.

Depends on if your truck is equipped with automatic tensioner or not. I just did mine this weekend. It has the automatic tensioner with a single standard duty alternator.

To remove the old belt you must release the tension. There was no way to get a 1/2" ratchet on the tensioner (fan shrowd in the way). However, there is another way to loosen the tension on the belt. Ford included a small metal clip on the tensioner to lock it in the retracted position. I retracted it by pulling on the belt just below the alternator. Since I was working alone I had to use my left hand to pull the belt and with my right hand I used a broomstick to push the clip into the locked position. It does take some strength to do this but I am of average size and strength and I was able to get it first try. If you have some assistance you can use 2 hands to pull the belt while the assistant locks the tensioner so it would be easier.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you remove the old belt make sure you take good notes on how it is routed. If you can't get the new one back on correctly your truck is dead in the water and will require a house call from someone who can get it back on or a tow to your mechanic.

Once the tensioner is locked you just have to work through the painstaking process of working the belt off of all the pulleys and pulling it out. Takes some work because of the low clearance between the fan shrowd and the front of the pulleys. I removed the bottom 2 fan shrowd mount bolts to get a little additional clearance. Additionally I used a small thin piece of wood to help work it through the tight spots. I used a piece of shim shake (wooden roofing shingle). A piece of trim would probably work as well.

To install the new belt, from the top I fed it underneath the alternator and across the front of the engine. Then from underneath I just started with the pulleys on the driver's side and worked toward the passenger side. I tucked it around each pulley one-by-one until I had it back in place.

Double check the routing of the belt and make sure it is correct and properly lined up on all the pulleys. When you are sure it is correct, just pull on the belt underneath the alternator. The metal clip holding the tensioner should automatically disengage to release the tensioner and take up the slack in the belt.

Start the truck and run it for 10 mins to properly break-in and seat the belt. Double check the tension when you shut it off.

Thephoneguy added: The idea was accurate however my neighbor was working and I had to do it myself. I grabbed a click click strap on and attach the belt to it and to an inner side of the truck right where the hood hinch enters when you close the hood. I started putting tension on the strap until i could slide a huge screwdriver in between the belt and the alternator base pulling stronger with one hand. at the same time and with muy other hand i grabbed the broom stick and managed to move the tension belt clip in (this clip goes up clockwise) and that's it the belt is loose. I only wanted the belt loose to replace my alternator. Thanks anyway because your procedure help me modify it to fill for my needs.

Anyplace that sells batteries will tell you the correct size to buy.

this is not uncommon when you have aluminum and steel together and then placed under heat, use a rubber mallet to knock the wheel as you turn it by hand it take some patience but as you work the wheel as if you are taking it off it will come off, when you put it back on use anti seize to prevent this problem in the future.

Happened to me in France, you can still move the van but beware of overheating...