Ford Windstar LX

in the front of the engine bay, just like any other vehicle

In case this question was intended to find the radiator drain plug or the radiator cap, see "Related Questions" below for more

My 2001 Windstar was making the same chirping noise around the belt drive area. It sounded like a bearing going bad so I ended up replacing the idler pulley/bearing, the tensioner pulley/bearing and still the chirp persisted. I used a stethoscope (broomhandle) to listen to the water pump and heard the chirp emanating from that area so I replaced the water pump thinking that I finally had found the cause, NOT. Right next to the water pump toward the engine is the camshaft sensor mounted on a synchronizer, which looks like the old distributor drives. This unit has a bushing I believe (didn't tear it apart, returned to part house for core charge) on the top end that was going bad. Sychronizer price at local Ford dealer $280, Autozone $60

If you get a cam sensor code, or if you've been hearing a squeak noise like a belt chirp that doesn't go away when you replace the belt. If so, use a prybar or similar tool to press down

Round up all the usual suspects....The first thing to check is the serpentine belt, since the noise goes away after the vehicle warms up this is the most likely culprit. If the spring loaded belt tensioner is getting weak, it may not be holding enough tension on the belt, the noise could go away after the belt is warm and grips a little better. When replacing the belt it is a good idea to turn all of the pulleys for the accessories and feel for roughness or noise, before putting the replacement belt on.

It sounds like your belt could be slipping. If there is a lot of "play" in the belt then it is time to replace it. Another possibility is that your water pump is getting ready to go. It is just impossible to say without first seeing it first hand. Hope this helps.

on the synchro. If the noise goes away replace both the sensor and the synchro.

See "Related Questions" below for more

• Front brakes are disc brakes - a caliper that pushed on 2 brake pads squeezing the bejeebers outta the 'rotor'
  
  
• Brake pad material - organic, metallic, semi-metallic & ceramic. $20-70
  My choice is to the ceramic - primarily due to long life and no brake dust on the wheels! Well worth the few extra $$
  
  
• Rotors - the large disc that mounts to the hub with the lugnuts sticking out of it, and the pads press against.
  Rotors can be re-surfaced to remove grooves and imperfections that occur through normal usage. This typically costs $15-20 per rotor.
  
  There's a big IF to this though: the rotor has to have enough metal left to be thick enough to have some ground away, and still be safe from collapsing. The parts store will measure the old rotor and determine if they can re-surfaced/machined.
  
  New Rotors - cost anywhere from $20-80 or so. Cheaper rotors will not last as long, don't dissipate heat as well as the top-of-the-line rotors, and well may 'warp' after only a year or two.
  
  
• Windstar rear brakes are of the drum-type* - 2 "shoes" being pushed outwards onto the Inside sides of the brake drum.
  Not the easiest of repair jobs - not hard, just sometimes a bear dealing getting the old drum off and working with the springs and remembering how they hook up.
  
  Drums also can be machined/ re-surfaced. Again, the shop will measure and advise if it can be done safely.
  
  ** I've heard rumors of some Windstars having the much better rear disc brakes. I haven't seen them (don't even have them on my "fully-equipped" 2001 SEL), or have links to more info - sorry.
  
  
  
  
• Brake Pictures & diagrams - there are online sources of picture from places like Autozone.com's Repair Guide.
  
  Here's my advice: if you're taking on the brake jobs, it is likely you're going to be handling other repairs on your Windstar.
  
  With that in mind: buy a good Chiltons or Haynes repair/service manual. One of the best $20 investments you'll make in keeping your Windstar happy and healthy.
  
  
• When to change the brakes -
  
• • Inspection - front brake pads are the easiest to get a look at just behind the wheel. With a flashlight and turning the wheels to each extreme, you should be able to see how much brake pad material is left.
    
    
  • GRINDING! - This means you've gone too long and the brake material is gone so the brakes are the dreaded metal-on-metal.
    With no brake pad/shoe left, the brakes are NOT very good at stopping your vehicle.
    This is also gouging the rotor or drum metals and guaranteeing your rotor / drum is going to have to be replaced - no chance for have them reconditioned.
    
    
  • Screeching - whining sounds - could be caused by the wear indicator - a thin piece of metal that will hit the rotor when the pads are worn down and will soon be needing replacing.
    
    
  • Hard pedal - having to press the pedal really hard to get the brakes to slow the vehicle down.
    One cause is that the braking surfaces - pads/shoes/rotors - are glazed. Although glazing is great on doughnuts, it's a very bad thing on brakes. Glazed surfaces severely compromise the friction needed for brakes to work. This can happen even when there is a lot of brake pad / shoe material left.
    Likely to have to replace pads/shoes and resurface the rotor/drum
    
    
  • Vibrating/pulsating brake pedal - different from the rapid pulsations that you feel when the ABSsystem is active in wet or icy conditions.
    Pulsating, or the pedal moving up-n-down, varies with vehicle speed - The "moving up and down" is then likely to be caused by unevenly worn rotors/pads.
    
    This is not UNcommon as it gets closer to time for a brake job, and tells you the rotor is warping. The brakes are a very very HOT operation and the rotor can warp due to the heat and/or cheap materials or construction.
    
    Have inspected - checked if they can be resurfaced/turned, more likely they'll have to be replaced.
    
    
  • Squishy or soft brake pedal - This means there is AIR in the brake system! Not good!
    This air must be removed from the system - known as "bleeding the brakes". May not require brake parts to be replaced.
    
    
    
    

Here is a PARTIAL list...

backup sensor?

door ajar sensor?

O2 sensors (got about 3 or 4 of them in different places.)

engine temperature coolant sensor?

Engine Oil temp sensor?

Engine vacuum manifold pressure sensor?

Engine atmospheric pressure sensor?

Mass Airflow sensor? (MAF)

throttle position sensor?

windshield washer reservoir level sensor?

Crash-velocity-sensitive-airbag deployment sensor?

fuel-tank full/empty sensor? (gas gauge)

oil pressure sensor?

seatbelts need to be used-sensor?

heating a/c temperature sensors?

A/C clutch sensor?

A/C system pressure sensors?

Crankshaft position sensor?

transmission gear selector sensor?

Overdrive sensor?

Locking torque converter sensor?

anti-lock brake wheel sensors?

anti-lock brake master cylinder sensors?

brake pedal sensor?

brake light-brake pedal switch sensor?

windshield wiper motor sensor?

fuel mixture sensor?

ECM module sensors? (various)

brake fluid reservoir level sensor?