Ford Windstar LX

On a 1996 Ford Windstar :

No , just the LOW oil pressure warning light

in the left side of your gauge cluster

According to the Autozone website :

For a 1995 Ford Windstar , 3.8 L V6 engine :

The spark plug tightening torque is ( 7 to 15 foot pounds )

manualy lift brake pedal to see if they go out. if so check spring at pedal

You need to find some kind of asbestos wrap or make a small heat-shield guard to put on or around the exhaust line to the EGR; thus preventing this from occurring in the future.

Your catalytic converter can have blockage as well which will cause all these problems

I am in the midst of this repair myself. Oddly enough, this is caused by a faulty Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor. It sits right up in the front of the engine compartment, passenger side, adjacent to a coolant hose. It costs $50 for the part but the shop wanted to charge $210. It is difficult to get at but manageable. Good Luck.

Older Fords can present many interesting challenges. When my '97 Taurus got stuck in park, my boyfriend manipulated the wires between the steering (multifunction) column and it was able to come out of park. As he recommended, I went to my local car repair and had them replace the "shift cable" and that fixed the problem. Evidently there was a break in one of the wires of this cable. A Virginia Driver.

there is a actuator that moves the tempature blend door,the door that controls hot to cold.the gears in the motor are plastic.is it makes a clicking noise after you turn the heater on ,it broke answer a flapping sound is usually caused by a leaf or other matter falling down thru vents pull fan cover off and clean debis out, mostdoors are are controlled by cable or vacuum,not gears.as you didnt say a clicking sound i doubt very much it has anything to do with motor or gears

I believe my 1995 Century has the same motor (3100). My gap setting is .060 inches. You can double check in the "capacities and specifications" section in your owner's manual. Or triple check on your emissions sticker under the hood, usually on the passenger strut tower.

This website should answer your question. It lists a lot of Peugeots and yours should be there. Go to http://www.denso.com.au/sparkplug/make/10/peugeot . :)

It appears the Windstar alternators have a large price range: $107-250.

See "Related Questions" below for installation and testing procedures

On a 2000 Ford Windstar :

Fuse # 113 is in the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the

engine compartment between the battery and the drivers side fender

You can view the 2000 Ford Windstar owners manual ( which includes the fuse

diagrams ) online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( page 188 has the P D Box diagram )

According to the ( 2003 ) Ford Windstar Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 3.8 liter V6 engine takes ( 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 )

On a 2001 Ford Winstar :

I assume it would be between the engine air filter and the big rubber engine

air intake tube . On my Ford Explorer it is inside a circular housing so from the

outside I only see where the wires connect to the MAF sensor

Oxygen sensors are usually located on the exhaust just after the exhaust manifold and just ahead of the catalytic converter Depending on model as some have one sensor, some have two and some have four of them, I would look just before and just after the catalytic converter. The sensor reads oxygen content and reports back to the Powertrain control module (computer) the one before and the one after have a different reading as the converter changes the content. The PCM evauluates and change the fuel air mixure to correct.

The plug, wire or coil could be the problem.

Usually if the injector is failing you will get different codes.

I just replaced plugs and wires from a 2002 and they were in very bad condition. The van had 90,000 or so miles on it. When these were changed it ran like a new van.

The back three plugs were just awesome. (sarcastic) That is another issue though. Good luck. See "Related Questions" below

25 to 35 Dollars Plus Parts If Required. Most Often None Are Required.

IF YOU GO TO YAHOO GROUPS AND GO TO "DAEWOO" GROUP, THERE IS A DATABASE THERE WITH THE ENTIRE VEHICLE MANUALS IN ZIP FILE FORMAT.

.039-.043 and you can also look under the hood and read were it says tune-up specifications and it should sometimes say plug gap ...

( .052 to .056 inch ) for the 4.0 liter EFI and SOHC , V6 engines and also the

5.0 liter V8 engine ( confirm with the Vehicle Emissions Control Information /

VECI decal in the engine compartment ) located just in front of the radiator

at the top of the radiator

The "Related Questions" below cover the Check Engine Light and retrieving the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC).

Lots of detailed information and guidance...

The Ford Neutral Safety Switch is an electronic part with the main function to stop the vehicle from getting started while in gear. The truck will not start when the switch is faulty.

I can answer this because I just finished mine today. :)

First off you are going to need some good tools and at the least six jack stands if you are performing this feat on the ground. ( Not using a lift )

The process requires that you lower the back half of your engine cradle and it can be DANGEROUS. You will be removing two large bolts that support your engine and transmission and I am talking about letting loose over 600 pounds of steel right above your head so if you do not think you are up to this DO NOT ATTEMPT IT! With that said I'll give you a good rundown of the job.

1. Park your car on a hard level surface and set your parking brake. DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR FREAKIN YARD OR GRAVEL DRIVEWAY! ( Unless you want to be crushed by a 3,00 pound car )

2. loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET )

3. Raise and support your vehicle on four good jack stands.

( Or you can do like I did and use two steel ramps at the rear of the car and two jack stands on the front. If you choose to do it this way don't loosen your front lugs until you have backed your vehicle onto the ramps and SET YOUR PARKING BRAKE )

4. Remove the front wheels and disconnect your vehicles battery.

5. Make sure your wheel hubs are pointing straight ahead and then separate the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles and inspect your outer tie rod ends for wear and boot damage if they flop around like a limp noodle they are shot and need to be replaced. Now is a good time to replace them because when all is said and done you will need to have your vehicle aligned anyway. Outer tie rod ends can be bought for around $20 bucks. ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THE OLD RACK YET ) 6. Just under the driver side in the wheel well look through at the rack and pinion closest to you. You will notice where the intermediate shaft joins with the rack.

There will be a rubber dust cover covering the shaft. You might see a warning label wrapped around the dust cover. Go ahead and push the dust cover above the racks stub shaft and access the intermediate shafts pinch bolt. Use a long extension to reach this bolt and remove it. Take a heavy screwdriver and gently pry off the intermediate shaft. ( NOTE do not disturb "ROTATE" the steering wheel at this point because it will affect reinstallation and cause damage to the steering column and your air bag wiring. 7. Place two jack stands under the rear outer edges of the engine cradle and position them as to allow the engine cradle to lower down to them about 4 inches then support the rear of the engine cradle in the center just behind the transmission pan with a good floor jack. ( NOT THE PAN ITSELF ) Apply just enough pressure with the floor jack to support the engine cradle when the two rear engine cradle bolts are removed so the engine and transmission does not fall out. ( DANGER BE CAREFUL!! ) ( It is best to position the floor jack with the pump handle facing out toward the front of the car.

8. Remove the two large rear engine cradle bolts and GENTLY lower the floor jack so the engine cradle will rest on your two jack stands you placed under the engine cradle for support. ( Do not lower the engine cradle too far you will cause the rear of the engine to hit the firewall and you will damage your engine! ) 9. Once you have made sure your engine cradle is secure resting on the jack stands you will now have access to the two power steering lines connected to your rack. You will need a 18mm wrench to remove them. Place a drain pan under the car and remove both the high pressure line and the return line from your old rack and allow them to drain into the pan. ( remove the power steering fluid fill cap to allow them to drain more easily ) Remove your serpentine belt from the power steering pulley and spin the pulley by hand this will evacuate the remaining old power steering fluid from the pump.

Now is a good time to fill and flush your power steering pump with fresh power steering fluid and spin the pump pulley by hand again to force out all of the old dirty fluid. ( Do this until the fluid runs clear )

10. Next There are two bolts and nuts that hold in your rack you will see them on the bottom of the rack one on each side. You will again need a 18mm wrench and 18mm ratchet to remove these bolts. If your car is equipped with magna steer disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to your rack. ( It's on the drivers side )

11. Carefully remove the old rack through the driver side wheel well. Pay attention and don't manhandle the rack out because you can damage your power steering hoses and electrical wires. 12. Carefully install the new rack the same way you took it out and bolt it in. The new rack should come with new o rings for the power steering lines USE THEM. Reattach the power steering hoses and tighten them to 20 foot pounds of torque. reattach the magna steer connector. ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE POWER STEERING LINES YOU WILL RIP OUT THE THREADS!! )

13. Raise the engine cradle back into position and bolt it in. ( I recommend that you use thread locker on the engine cradle bolts DON'T USE TOO MUCH OR YOU WILL NEVER REMOVE THEM EVER AGAIN ) Once you have the engine cradle secured back in you can remove the jack stands you supported the cradle with and remove the floor jack.

14. If you are using new tie rod ends or reusing the old ones you will need to count how many threads they are screwed on the old rack so your alignment will be good enough to get you to an alignment shop. Count how many threads the jamb nut is from the inside of the racks inner tie rod and make a note of it and then count how many turns it takes you to unscrew the outer tie rod from the racks inner tie rod and also make a note of it. You will need to repeat this for each side as they both will be different. Screw the jamb nut onto the new racks inner tie rod and use your notes to position the new or reused tie rod onto the new rack. once you are happy with this reconnect the outer tie rods to their steering knuckles and then tighten the jamb nut against the outer tie rod. 15. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir and reattach your serpentine belt to the power steering pulley. Reattach the intermediate shaft to the racks stub shaft and reinsert the pinch bolt. (DANGER!! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT FULLY ENGAGED WITH THE STUB SHAFT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE PINCH BOLT! ) Place the dust cover back over the shaft and reconnect the battery. 16. Start the car and SLOWLY turn your steering wheel from stop to stop several times to help purge air from the new rack. ( This may take you several times ) Your power steering pump will whine for a bit as you do this. Make sure you keep the power steering fluid topped off. Now look under the car and check for leaks from the power steering lines.

17. Reattach the front wheels and GET YOUR CAR TO AN ALIGNMENT SHOP or you will regret it later. Hope this helps