Ford Windstar LX

there should be one on a decal under the hood. otherwise look in the apropriate copy of "motor manual" or "chilton's" or a factory manual

My 93 takes a .36 inch gap. That's what I was told at the parts store when purchasing new plugs. Call them up if you forgot to get that info. Or do what I did and went online to "Bosch" and found the plug and recommended gap.

I'm having a very similar problem with my 1988 Volvo 760 with the B230F/T engine.

We troubleshot the problem down to the ignition system.

We have tested the car as best we can with this intermittent problem and feel it is either the impulse sender in the distributor cap (Volvo repair shop says is most replaced part involved in this problem), the power stage or the ignition ECU.

If it would just fail consistently we could figure out which is the actual problem.

Now in case your problem is different than mine (It seems it is, somewhat, as mine stalled "SOMETIMES" when it stopped and also would have two other symptoms - it would have a momentary loss of power that would be revealed as a brief dip in RPM and a slight lurch or a more lingering similar loss that would see the RPM drop to zero and would be similar to downshifting in a manual to save your brakes, but it would recover.) you need to go back to basic troubleshooting:

Air

Fuel

Spark

Check your idle speed. Make sure your air filter is good and your air/fuel mixing is not having problems like with a stuck butterfly valve. See if you've got any loose vacuum lines. Could your fuel filter be clogging? Is your fuel pump weak? Dirty injectors? Have you done a tune up (plugs, wires and maybe distributor cap & rotor) lately? Check your timing.

I decided to do a tune-up starting with plugs and wires. When I went to take the #1 wire off it came apart in my hands! (I bought this car 2nd hand and haven't had it that long. The wires LOOKED good, but clearly they were not.)

Does it run rough in idle?

Anyway, that should get you started. If you have any manuals they have other suggestions (Chiltons, Haynes)

I had a similar problem with my 88 760 Turbo Wagon...it turned out to be the fuel pump which was beginning to fail and overheat at low flows which were caused by a failing pressure regulator (not bypassing enough fuel). This combination of failing parts worked well under load, but as soon as I got off the gas, it would stall - cool down - restart and run fine - so long as I was not idling.

What is the age / condition of the spark plugs, wires and coil???

Wet conditions will make electrical problems the worst since electricity loves to travel along water / wet paths more than dry.

If you're still running original equipment, plan on replacing the plugs and wires.

See "Related Questions" below for tons of great advice

Generally it is because the door switches get all gunked up. They are inside the lock mechanisms in each door. Shoot some WD=40 inside all the locks and then close the doors several times...don't forget the back lift gate and the back window mechanism. Should help you out.

I had a 1971 olds cutlass that over flowed thru the tube where you put fluid at (don't know if this is the same) but a transmission has to breath. If that tube gets clogged it will throw the fluid out, either thru the filler tube or front or rear transmission seal. My olds t/mission had a little tube about the size of a pencil on the left top of t/mission and it had a check valve in it and it got stuck closed.

I got some (for the life of me I can not think of the name oil) but it comes in a spray can and it loosens whatever is stuck and spayed it in that tub and walla, that did the trick. (It's a penetrating oil)

Start with the fuses.

In addition to the fuse #'s cited in the "Related Question" below, also check on #10.

If 10 is bad, then read on to that particular question also.

There is no "Winstar" - that is simply people leaving out the 'd' when spelling WinDstar

the sensor is under the upper intake.it is easier to remove upper intake then look to your right in back of lower intake

In my opinion, removing the front subframe makes this job much easier.

Jack up and suitably support the front of the car so it is in a wheels free state.

With wheels removed;

* Remove the anti-roll bar drop links from the anti-roll bar

* Free off the lower arm ball joints off

* Remove the track rod ends from the swivel hubs

* Remove the nut and bolt and special clip on the lower steering column universal joint * loosen off and disconnect the feed and return pipes to the power ram (beware stinking power steering fluid pouring everywhere!) Steering and suspension wise, the subframe should be free!

* Remove the nut and bolt that secures the lower engine mounting to its bracket (the bolt that goes through the big round rubber mount at the back of the engine) * Disconnect all relevant gear linkage rods (this will be clear when you are under there!) * Support the subframe with a jack or somesuch and free off the 6, 18mm bolts that secure the subframe to the body shell. * remove all subframe mounting bolts. * lower the jack that is supporting the subframe, it should all drop quite nicely and then get stuck on the steering column universal joint! A good old college shove frees this and then you should be able to remove your subframe assembly from under the car. I preferred doing it this way, it takes longer but it is so much easier! It also exposed a lot of potential ball aches on my car, a loose coolant pipe, a knackered exhaust manifold stud, a worn gear linkage rod. The car feels much better for it, I also took the time to paint my antiroll bar bright red. Ahh yeah!

Being able to work on the subframe in a warm garage with a cup of tea on hand was worth the extra time to me!

Radiator Coolant level in the overflow bottle is low. Fill the overflow bottle with coolant. If you have coolant in the bottle, the switch is stuck. Remove the whole overflow bottle and clean with some CLR (calcium, lime, rust) remover.

On the 2002 Windstar there is a 3/8" square head antifreeze drain plug above the starter. This drains the left bank of the block and can be replaced with a 1/4" pipe valve.

after 1996 it already came with 134a, and can be purchased at any autozone, pep boys, advance auto, etc.....or even walmart carries it now. you used to need a special hose, or they would sell you a fancy "kit".....but now it comes in a spray can with its own hose and all for under 20 bucks...turn on the ac....snap it on the low side of the compressor hoses...(it should only fit on the low side anyway, so dont put to much thought into it here) then squeeze the trigger until it stops taking it. Enjoy.

Not 100% sure on the passenger side, But on the drivers side you simply take a flat (common) screwdriver and gently pry up the front and back ends of the black switch base. There are two clips that keep the switch base in place, if enough upward pressure is applied the whole base sould come right up. Then you can access all of the wires underneath.

Could indicate problem with transmission 1st try disconnecting battery and tying + and - battery cables together for about 10 mins. to see if this resets and may solve problem--if light continues to blink have vehicle scanned to see if any codes exist

your car is broken

To answer your question correctly, I would need to know the year of your truck and which type of radio system it has installed on it to help you. I would say to look in your Owner's Guide or Manual to find better detailed instructions.

2000 Ford F-150 Harley Davidson Edition

Hope this answers your question. I really don'tknow your truck year, but it sounds like a earlier model, say early90's! In that case; 1. Hold down the volume button:also the on/off button. 2. Once it's depress, press the plus or minus side of the tuning to get the HOUR, while still depressing the volume button. 3. Depress the L/R to get the minute. Hope this solve your dilemma.

In my 98 model, with the key turned on but the radio turned off, you hold down the "Clk" button, then click "Seek" right or left to adjust the hour up or down, and click "Tune" right or left to adjust the minutes up or down.

A flashing check engine light is due to a condition that is causing catalytic converter damage. Normal cause is a severe misfire

0.033 to 0.038 inch (0.83 to 0.96mm) recommended for the Champion RC 9YC or equivalent spark plug.

The 1998 Nissan Owners Manual for the vehicle says, 0.039" to 0.043" or 1mm to 1.1mm.