The Ford Motor Company is an American multinational carmaker in Dearborn, Michigan. Founded by Henry Ford in 1903, Ford is the fifth largest automaker in the world and the second largest in the U.S. based on annual vehicle sales.

12,485 Questions

What is 6X8?


Search Engine Optimization
Math and Arithmetic

How much is a ford 800 tractor worth?

Please take the time to read my complete answer fully. You won't be disappointed, and I promise you will learn a lot!

The 800 & 801 SERIES of Ford tractors were built with many different options.

**Including models: 820, 850, 860, 811, 821, 841, 851, 861, 871, 881. **

- Please understand, each different Model within the Series carried different options! **This is a CRITICAL thing to understand!**

Engines included several different fuel types, including: gasoline, LP gas (propane), and diesel.

The rear PTO (Power Take Off) options could be any of the following:

No PTO at all, the "standard" PTO (aka: non-live PTO), a "Live" PTO, or a fully "Independent" PTO.

- The "No" PTO option was typically found on the industrial or standard versions, and often had a front-end loader or setup as a T/L/B (tractor/loader/backhoe) associated with them.

- The "Standard" (non-live) PTO was typically found with the 4-speed transmission. This PTO required depressing the clutch to disengage the PTO, which in turn stopped forward or rearward motion at the same time. It also would stop the operation of the hydraulic pump, therefore making the 3-point hitch unable to lift until the clutch pedal was again released. Very commonly found on every Ford 9N, 2N, 8N, NAA (Jubilee), 600 with 4-spd., and 800 with 4-spd.

- The "Live" PTO (utilizing a 2-stage clutch) option was typically found with the 5-speed transmissions, and was more commonly found on the later 600/800 and 601/801 Series of tractors.

- The fully "Independent" PTO option was linked with the Select-O-Speed 10-speed transmissions.

Tractor could have a rear 3-point hitch (with or without).

Tractor could have live rear hydraulic remotes (2 quick-connect hoses & couplers for operating a remote cylinder on, say, a transport disc or a transport style tow-behind rotary mower).

You would need to know which options your tractor has to accurately gauge its worth. Obviously, the more options it has, the MORE it's worth.

Live and Independent PTO's and any 3-point hitch is VERY desirable, and would boost the tractor's value considerably.

Additionally, Power Steering options on the later 800 & 801 series, as well as optional front end loaders will also jump a tractor's value significantly higher.

Also, the overall condition of the tractor is a major factor. Everything from the running and operating condition of the engine, clutch, and transmission, to the body (tinwork), brakes, and tires all play into the equation.

Check the below link to learn more about the Ford 800 & 801 series of tractors:

(You will likely have to Copy and Paste the link below, into your browser:)

**** As a generic baseline, and my observations... Current 2011 values put a Ford 800 series tractor, reasonably equipped with 5-spd, 3-pt hitch, and live PTO, in good operating condition around $2,000 to $3,500. ****

I've seen really ratty ones (including non-running ones) sell for as little as $800 to $1,800. Keep in mind, these all needed some sort of repair work done to them. Again, I repeat... Overall CONDITION plays a HUGE role in farm tractor values!

Additionally... you can get a better understanding of all older farm tractor values by going to farm equipment auctions, talking to dealerships, looking on-line, and watching eBay and other "live" auctions.

For example, I currently own a Ford 860 gas. She has good paint, very good rubber, 3-pt hitch, live PTO, and 5-spd tranny, that is easily worth around $2,500 -$3,000. More if I ever get around to restoring it.

I also own a Ford 871 gas. She has good paint, very good rubber, 3-pt hitch, independent PTO, 10-spd Select-O-Speed tranny, rear hydraulic remotes, power steering, and a fully-functional hydraulic FORD front-end loader... Basically the works.

Worth about $3,500-$4,500. More if I ever get around to restoring it.

Hope this is of help to everyone out there! ~ AJ


Where is Fuel cut off switch for a 97 ford galaxy?

Either in the trunk behind the covers over the fender wells ,or in the front floor board behind one of the kick panels. its a red button you push it in and hold down for 30.

1995-2005 Chevy Cavaliers
European Ford
Malcolm X

How many ford sierras are left on the road?

well ive got 2 so that helps a little great cars

well ive got 2 so that helps a little great cars

well ive got 2 so that helps a little great cars

I left on on the road a couple of years ago. Piece of crap.


What does jerking during acceleration mean?

Sounds like an ignition problem. Does it happen more when it's damp out? If so, replace the ignition wires, and distributor cap.

yes ignition , next i would check distributor timing and next timing belt depending on year and how many miles on this car you may need to replace the timing belt ..... greasy monkey

check your gaz filter or the right elect. curent at the fuel pump...


How about a simple tuneup. If not a tune up replace some spark pulgs do you get any error coed chekc engine light on? if you go to autozone they will tell you what your codes are that might help you out

AutoZone only does the test for 1996 and up

I had that problem with my alero and it was a transmission problem. I took it to the dealer and they fixed it in a day--Thank God it was still under warranty!

it might be your ignetion or your fuel filter

My mom has had this problem in her 93 Lexus ES300, and it was because there was a crack in the air intake past the O2 sensor, so the engine was taking in more air than what was read by the sensor. One of the engine mounts were broken, causing the engine to move from torque during acceleration. This motion repeatedly twisted the intake until it cracked.

The main causes that make the engin jerking during acceleration was low supply of fuel to the combustion is due to a choked fuel filter.

Check your tps Throtlle position sensor it might be going out my jeep does the same thing to do that hook up a diagnotic or take the plug out and put it back in it might not be getting a good enough connection it is located on the opposite side of the accelerator cable lines

My car does that to but mostly when I stop suddenly then try to take off again. It could be something with the transmission fluid, check your levels.

My son's 97 S-10 PU had terrible jerking and it was the Universal Joint.

I have found the solution to this problem:one of the oxygen sensor,the one in the exhaust just after the manifold showed high voltage . in fact it should be changed evrey 85,000 km or when it fails as in my case. my jeep is a 1997 4.0 L model. but to be on the safe side the mechanic changed the second sensor at the catalictic convertor as well. when this problem occured the engine only works with three pistons .

I had this problem. The wire kit for my spark plugs need replacing. my engine was miss firing.i got the wire kit replaced(40Canadian) and 4 new spark plugs (60 Canadian)and this solved the problem

-I had this problem with my 01 jeep Cherokee. My solution was my crank position sensor. Automatic Transmission.

Same thing happend with my 96 civic hatchback. Manual Transmission.

Its almost always an ignition problem but can be a drive train problem, ie clutch, u joint, cv joints, transmission. i would check/replace spark plugs, fuel filter, and check carefully for fuel leaks or blockages (kinked hose etc). I would also check the vacuum hoses to make sure they are all on, and if a manual choke, make sure the choke isn't pulled out or electric (if carburated car) make sure its not stuck.

As the others have answered, hopefully a good tuneup and not transmission problems. I would take it to a shop and have do an engine analysis. You could spend a fortune changing parts that contribute nothing to the solution.

its jerkin while u r acceleratin or when u go to accelerate if it does it while accelarating check ur wheals the might b off balance if it does it when u go to accelarate ur transmission is goin bad

Intellectual Property
Patents and Patent Law

Does Ford own Cummins patents?

Ford does not own Cummins or Cummins "patents". If they were Cummins patents they would belong to Cummins. Cummins may well license patents from Ford, cross-licensing is common in industry, and there would be nothing unusual in that. Ford did own some Cummins stock in the past, but Cummins is an independent company with plants all over the world. This is a rumor that has circulated for years, partly because of an old internet hoax. Ford does use a Cummins in one of their heavy duty trucks, I believe, but their main source of heavy duty diesels is International.

Henry Ford

What was the price of a Ford car in 1913?

In 1909 The Model T sold for $850 which is equal to $20,513 in todays money. By 1913 the Ford Model T sold for $550 or $12,067 in today's money. By the 1920s, it sold for $290 or $3,258 in todays money.

Henry Ford

What was Henry James Ford's nickname?

Mr. Motor Man


Does ford own Jeep?

No ... Chrysler does.


What is the better ford model lariat or king ranch?

The King Ranch is top of the line with more options but in reality they are the same truck.

Intellectual Property
Henry Ford
Patents and Patent Law

How many patents did Henry Ford have?



Where does Ford make their vehicles?

United States, Mexico, and Canada depending on the model.

Commercial Jingles

No illusions The Ford Ka advertisement?

The song itself isn't by Soundtree, they mede the whole advert. Yes, the song was made specifically for the advert, but it was later released as a single ''I'm Not Invisible'' by The Tease ft. Megan Wyler.


I'm Not Invisible

Touch Me, I Won't Disappear.

I'm No Illusion

Are You Looking For Me?

I Am So Easy To Find

Wake Up, Open Up Your Eyes.

I'm Right Here Looking At You,

Are You Looking For Me?

I Feel Bad About Life Today

So I'm Gonna Come Out To Play.

I'm Hiding Anyway,

I'm No Illusion.

I'm In A state Of Mind,

Open Up And You Will Find,

I'm Right Here Looking At You,

Are You Looking For Me?

My Air Is Physical,

Touch Me and You'll know I'm Here.

I'm No Illusion

Are You Looking For Me?

I Feel Bad About Life Today

So I'm Gonna Come Out To Play.

I'm Hiding Anyway,

I'm No Illusion.

I'm Not Invisible

Touch Me, I Won't Disappear.

I'm No Illusion

Are You Looking For Me?

And You're Looking At Me!

I Feel Bad About Life Today

So I'm Gonna Come Out To Play.

I'm Hiding anyway,

I'm No Illusion.


Hope I helped, and I'm not too late. :)

Auto Parts and Repairs
Ford F-150

How much do brake lines cost on an f150?

Your local auto parts store can sell you brake lines of various length and diameter at a small cost, it is the labor to replace them that will add up.

Power Steering
Ford Windstar
Ford Taurus

What is Ford m2c41-a oil for power steering pumps?

M2C41A is the Original Equipment Manufacturers Specifications for the type of oil to go into the system. M2C41A is not engine oil; it is a type of hydraulic oil. You do not need to use Ford M2C41A, you just have to find an alternative oil that meets Ford's Specifications. You should be fine using a Universal Tractor Fluid that meets SAE 10-W30 classification, just make sure it meets OEM M2C41A Specifications . DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL it is not the same.


How fast can a ford gt40 go?

The average speed of a ford gt40 is 211 mph. Although there is a video on youtube of a ford gt40 doing 257mph.

Not sure if it was tuned or not. Also it could be the 2005 ford gt.

Cars & Vehicles
Henry Ford

How and where was the first car made?

A wind-driven vehicle was made in Italy in 1335 and a Catholic priest called Father Ferdinand Verbiest supposedly built a steam-powered vehicle for the Chinese emperor in 1678. The first self-powered vehicle for which there is a proper record was designed in France in 1769 by Nicholas Joseph Cugnot and constructed by M. Brezin.

Henry Ford

Was Henry Ford a white supremacist?

The shiort answer is partially yes.

To be a white supremacist, a person must comply with two conditions.

First, he must fit the moden Diversity-defined profile of a white supremacist, which is


Henry Ford did in fact meet the first criteria.

Second, he must actively oppose freedom-privileges for Diversity people offered and guaranteed by a powerful central government.

Henry Ford partially met some of the second criteria, although most of the freedom-privileges that Diversity people enjoy today were non-existent in Henry's time frame. For example, there was no such thing as Affirmative Action or abortion rights or slavish government support for Israel before WW II. However, Henry did oppose some aspects of US involvement in WWII, which brought deep disfavor down upon him from nascent American Diversity leaders that were advocating strong US intervention into the European conflict. American Diversity leaders advocated strong US intervention in WW II era Europe in order to save their fellow Diversity brethren in imminent peril, and to combat German-style white supremacy.

Auto Parts and Repairs
Head Gaskets and Valve Covers
Ford Taurus

How do you replace the head gasket on a Ford Taurus - Sable 3.8L engine?

This is a very involved repair. It requires the removal of the intake and exhaust manifold. The head and valve train must be removed. This is a job for a professional. Extensive knowledge and tools are required to complete this job. This is not a DIY job.
  • Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

Remove intake hoses any wire harness alternator and alt mount free up the heads loosen in sequence in quarter turns

front of 6 4 2 8

engine 5 1 3 7

clean remaining gasket inspect block of any cracks no cracks take heads to machine shop for inspection and resurfacing if heads check out buy head gaskets clean all gasket surfaces with scotch brite pads starter spray then final wipe with rubbing alcohol let dry copper spray new head gaskets put gaskets inplace gaskets marked up put new heads inplace torx


2.loosen full turn




each step in sequence

Cylinder Heads


Rotate crankshaft to zero degrees top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.

Disconnect battery ground cable.

Drain engine cooling system.

Remove air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body.

Mark and remove vacuum lines to upper intake manifold.

Disconnect EGR backpressure transducer hose from EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube, loosen lower EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nut and rotate EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube away from EGR valve.

Disconnect the throttle position sensor (TP sensor), idle air control valve (IAC valve), EGR backpressure transducer and EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connectors.


Relieve pressure at the fuel pressure relief valve (Schrader valve).

Remove fuel line safety clips.

CAUTION: Cover fuel line ends with clean shop cloths to prevent dirt from entering opening.

Disconnect fuel lines.

Remove upper intake manifold as outlined. Discard old intake manifold upper gasket.

Disconnect engine control sensor wiring retainers from rocker arm cover stud bolts and each fuel injector, and position the engine control sensor wiring out of the way.

NOTE: Fuel injectors and fuel injection supply manifold may be removed with lower intake manifold as an assembly.

Remove fuel injection supply manifold and fuel injectors.

Remove ignition wires from spark plugs.

Remove wire harness retainers from valve cover retaining stud bolts.

Remove ignition coil and bracket from LH front cylinder head and set aside.

Disconnect upper radiator hose and heater water hoses.

Remove camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) and housing.

Disconnect engine control sensor wiring from engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor) and the water temperature indicator sender unit.

If LH (front) cylinder head is being removed, perform the following:

Disconnect generator electrical connectors.

Remove drive belt.

Remove drive belt tensioner.

Remove power steering support bracket and power steering pump as an assembly and set aside in a position to prevent fluid from leaking out.

Remove oil level indicator tube retaining nut from exhaust manifold stud bolt. Rotate or remove oil level indicator tube from exhaust manifold.

If RH (rear) cylinder head is being removed, perform the following:

Remove intake manifold support.

Remove valve covers.

NOTE: Regardless of cylinder head removal order, the No. 3 cylinder intake valve push rod (6565) must be removed to allow removal of lower intake manifold.

Loosen rocker arm seat retaining bolts enough to allow the rocker arm to be lifted off the push rod and rotated to one side.

Remove push rods. Identify the position of each push rod. The push rods should be installed in their original position during reassembly.

Remove lower intake manifold.

Remove spark plugs.

Remove exhaust manifolds.

Remove cylinder head retaining bolts and discard.

Remove cylinder heads.

Remove and discard the old head gaskets.


CAUTION: Use care when scraping aluminum surfaces to prevent gouging which may cause leak paths.

NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads before installation except those specifying special sealant.

Place shop cloth in valve tappet valley to catch any dirt or gasket material. Clean cylinder head, intake manifold, valve cover and head gasket surfaces. If the cylinder head was removed for a head gasket replacement, check the flatness of the cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces.

Position new head gaskets, noting UP designation on head gasket face, on cylinder block using the cylinder head to block dowel for alignment.

NOTE: Replace cylinder head to block dowel if damaged.

Position cylinder heads on cylinder block over cylinder head to block dowels.

CAUTION: Always use new cylinder head bolts when installing cylinder head or damage to engine may occur.

Install new cylinder head retaining bolts:

Tighten retaining bolts in sequence shown to 70-90 Nm (52-66 lb-ft). Then back off bolts 360 degrees.

NOTE: When cylinder head retaining bolts have been tightened as outlined, it is not necessary to retighten the bolts after extended engine operation. However, the bolts can be checked for tightness if desired.

Tighten the cylinder head retaining bolts to: 40-55 Nm (33-41 lb-ft) 85-99 Nm (63-73 lb-ft)

Install lower intake manifold as outlined. Connect engine control sensor wiring to the engine coolant temperature sensor and to the water temperature indicator sender unit.

Dip each push rod end in Engine Assembly .Install push rods in their original position.

Install rocker arms, rocker arm seats and retaining bolts.Tighten bolts to 7-15 Nm (5-11 lb-ft).

CAUTION: Rocker arm seats must be fully seated in cylinder head and push rods must be seated in rocker arm and valve tappet sockets prior to final tightening.

Final tighten retaining bolts to 26-38 Nm (19-28 lb-ft).

NOTE: If the original valve train components are being installed, a valve clearance check is not required. If a component has been replaced, perform a valve clearance check.

Lubricate all rocker arms with Engine Assembly Lubricant.

Install lower intake manifold as outlined.

Install spark plugs if removed.

Position valve covers on the cylinder heads and install retaining bolts. Note the location of ignition wire retainer stud bolts.

Connect engine control sensor wiring to fuel injectors and valve cover stud bolts.

Install upper intake manifold and intake manifold upper gasket.

Install ignition coil and bracket assembly. Tighten retaining bolts to 40-55 Nm (29-41 lb-ft).

Connect ignition wires to the spark plugs and ignition wire separators (12297) to valve cover retaining stud bolts.

Connect intake air temperature sensor (IAT sensor), throttle position sensor, idle air control valve and EGR backpressure transducer or EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connectors.

If LH (front) cylinder head was removed, perform the following:

Install or rotate oil level indicator tube to exhaust manifold retaining stud bolt. Tighten nut to 16-20 Nm (12-15 lb-ft). Install power steering support bracket and power steering pump assembly. Tighten retaining bolt to 40-55 Nm (29-41 lb-ft). Install drive belt tensioner.

If RH (rear) cylinder head was removed install intake manifold support.

Install generator. Tighten long retaining bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) and short bolt to 37 Nm (27 lb-ft).

Install the drive belt.

Connect fuel lines as outlined.

Install fuel line safety clips.

Connect upper radiator hose and heater water hoses. Tighten clamps securely.

Connect vacuum lines to premarked locations.

CAUTION: Engine coolant is corrosive to all engine bearing material. Replace engine oil after removal of a coolant carrying component to help prevent future failure.

Drain and change engine oil.

Install air cleaner outlet tube to throttle body and engine air cleaner (ACL).

Install crankcase ventilation hose to valve cover.

CAUTION: This engine has aluminum components and requires a special corrosion inhibiting coolant to avoid cooling system damage.

Fill and bleed engine cooling system.

Connect battery ground cable.

Start engine and check for coolant, fuel, oil, vacuum and exhaust leaks.

Check, and if necessary, adjust the accelerator cable and speed control

The cheapest way is to do the job yourself. These cars were known to have gasket failures. A lot of times the gasket would allow coolant to leak into the oil. If your dipstick looks like a milkshake, chances are you have done some damage to bearings in the engine. You might not hear anything until a few months later.

As far as stopleak or dropping an egg into rad, I cant see any cheap way to do this job. The problem is you are trying to seal combustion chamber pressures from the cooling system, and visa versa. hope this helps...…..

I had good results from 2 small containers of alumaseal from discount auto supply.

I had this problem. I tried bars leak 3 times, didn't work. Did the head job, and then the oil pump died. We were told the bars leak probably did it. Also Bars leak killed the thermostat, had to replace it (but since the headgasket blew, change it anyway). It can also damage the heater coil.

No cheap way. The head set gasket set is 55 out the door, and the Haynes repair manual is 15. If you want JUST the head gasket (not a good idea) they're 17.00.

The one other thing is the bolts are Torque to Yield, you need to spend the 30 bucks extra for new head bolts. Also, you need RTV gasket maker too.

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

If you haven't already done one, I wouldn't recommend it, but if you insist, get a manual on the subject, remove everything that's in the way, pull the rocker cover, disconnect the timing chain (you might want to check the timing marks and turn the engine to TDC), remove the head and take it to a machine shop. It doesn't matter what it looks like, the head is almost certainly warped if the head gasket has blown. TAKE IT TO A MACHINE SHOP ANYWAY. WHen you put it back together with the new head gasket, torque the head according to the sequence specified in the manual. Then put everything back in reverse sequence. But like I said before, if you haven't already done one, get someone else to do it for you.

Transportation and Logistics
Henry Ford

Where was ford founded?

Founded on June 16, 1903 in Dearborn, Michigan


Who was president Ford's vice president?


Ford Windstar
Ford Taurus
Used Car Buying

Are Ford Winstars good cars?


I WOULD NEVER HAVE ANOTHER >I OWNED a 1995 the transmission went twice and then my brakes were defective ,almost got killed on I 95 here in south Florida 1year later I got a recall notice about it being defective , the van was totaled no trace of it for a lawsuit. The reason so many people are selling it is because it is a LEMON and money pit DONT BUY ONE

I've got a '98 GL and it's been quite reliable and a great vehicle for travel. The suspension makes the ride very comfortable. Acceleration time is impressive. (I've got an 8cyl). Have had no trouble with A/C, but have replaced tie rod ends twice. Consumer reports this month (5/04) listed this a common drawback to purchasing this year of van. Turning radius is not as good as competition. Seats are very comfortable but back row seats are heavy to remove. Competition can't beat the 5 star safety rating either. I'm looking at purchasing another Winstar, but they've stopped making them. Guess I'll look for some '03 leftovers!

Stay away from the Ford Windstar. We have a '95 and we are so unhappy with it. We have had the transmission replaced 3 times. The engine has been rebuilt. All of the window motors have failed. The wiring is problamatic. It is a lemon. STAY AWAY!...

Like any car new or old if you don't give it the proper maintenance it won't last. I own a 1999 Ford Windstar and I love it. The Driver's seat it very comfortable so are the passenger seats. It responds very good. I love my Winstar.

I bought a 98 Winstar with 125,000 miles, the engine was replaced and is supposed to have low mileage. Shortly after purchasing it the automatic transmission starting acting up and making a banging sound, like something in the transmission was hanging up. This was in the standard position for drive. I took it to a transmission place, they replaced the modulator valve, transmission fluid and filter as well as the gasket. It cost me three hundred dollars, which I did not mind paying. I noticed shortly afterwards that it was not shifting properly. It then started flipping and flopping in and out of first and second gear. The thing about is that it only does it once every couple of months. I do not have any extra money to pay a transmission specialist. I have someone who will put it on a machine for seventy-five dollars. Does anyone have any ideas? It also makes cracking noise when metal over-heats, when I turn off the engine. I have been told it could be the transmission cooler. Any input would be appreciated.

No! I have a 2000 with 115,000k and it is costing me a lot to keep it on the road. I will not buy another.

I just purchased a 2000 ford winstar 2 weeks ago. My fiance was driving it today and guess what? You got it the transmission failed!!! Luckily I purchased an extended warranty which I hope will cver the expenses of this repair. My only wish is that I came to this site and read some of the other horrific review of this mini - van before I went and purchased one. I pray to God that I'm not in for a long expensive journey.


How do you remove the driver's side interior door panel on a 1998 Ford Expedition?

My father used this website when he removed the door panel for his 1999 Expedition. He doesn't have any factory shop manuals so this was helpful.


I know this is a lot of info, but it very detailed and makes no mistakes! The Weenie!

Make sure the window is completely shut. Remove the 'sail' panel at the top front edge of the door. First pry the top out towards you, then lift it straight up. Remove the Phillips screw behind it. Remove the door handle trim. To do this pull the handle out and hold it while prying the trim piece on the speaker side, then lift and rotate it to reveal a 5/16" bolt behind it. Remove the 5/16" bolt to remove the handle. Set it aside. Pry up, also speaker end first, the power window and door lock switch panel. Unplug the three connectors and set it aside. Remove the Phillips screw now visible through the switch panel opening in the panel . Pry off the courtesy light lens using indent along the bottom edge. Remove the Phillips screw in the reflector well. Lift the door panel straight up and off. If it does not lift off easily you missed something. Reach under the top edge and unplug the power mirror connector. Reach down and remove the courtesy bulb socket. 1/4 turn anti-clockwise. Put the door panel aside. Remove the four 1/4" bolts holding the speaker. Unplug the connector to the speaker and set the speaker aside. Using your or your mates hair dryer apply heat to the stuck-on insulation layer and peel back enough at the top left corner of the door (about a foot). Heating the adhesive allows it to come off more readily and will help control accidental tearing. Peel back just enough to expose the door handle mechanism. (Use the dryer again when reassembling). Remove the two 3/8" nuts and push the door handle out along the bottom edge first. From outside the door observe how the C-clip is installed around the key cylinder in the handle and the position of the key cylinder arm. Remove the clip and the key cylinder should slide off. Leave it on the push rod for now. Twist the door handle around to release the hook shaped door latch push rod. Remove the key cylinder from the key lock push rod. Install the key cylinder in the new handle/keypad. Reinstall the C-clip. Thread the 8-wire bundle through the handle opening and through to the inside. You will fish it along the door later. Hook the keypad handle onto the hook shaped pushrod. Seat it in place, top edge goes in first, and fasten it with the two 3/8" nuts. Connect the key lock push rod by snapping it onto the key cylinder arm. Fish the wire bundle back through and along the outer wall of the door and out the speaker opening (temporary). Pull straight down below the handle towards the reinforcing bar that is spot welded to the sheet metal. Using a nylon wire tie, tie it to the reinforcing bar immediately below the handle. This will keep it away from the window travel path. Put another nylon tie about halfway along the door length. A third tie will be installed later. __________________________________________________

Door Panels

Removal & Installation

1. Remove the sail panel (Front Doors Only). (Triangle looking shape near the side view mirror)

2. Remove the door panel by carefully lifting the panel upward to release the retaining clips.

3. Remove the electrical plugs that control the windows, exc.

The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Henry Ford

What year did Ford Motor company start business?

Ford Motor Company was founded on June 16, 1903.

Car Fuses and Wiring
Ford E-150 Van
Ford E-250 Van
Ford E-350 Van

Where is the fuse panel located in a 1992 Ford Mark III van?

either UNDER the dash or under the hood...


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