Honda Civic LX

I've been wondering that myself. I'm having a problem with my door locks. I have the same problem with my 1999 Saturn SL2 model. It has electric locks with a remote keyless entry. I went to lock my doors as I was inside the car, driving, and all 4 locks seized up and began clicking. A day later, I can not use my remote entry thing nor can I unlock or lock my car from the inside. The alarm system prevents me from locking the door, but even if I did, the locks would still click and they'd all wind up unlocked before the day is over with. Even if I manually lock the doors from the inside, the locks start clicking and by the time I get where I'm going, they are all 4 unlocked and clicking away.

If you've gotten answer, please respond to Sacrificialclam@aim.com with "SaturnSL2" in the subject. I can't afford for Saturn to look at it. They'll charge me $95 for a service call only to tell me the problem is going to be expensive to fix. The guy at Saturn told me that you couldn't turn off the alarm system. I'm betting you can.

Hi, I strongly recommend you buy the Haynes Repair Manual by looking it up online. The will ask you for your zip code for the nearest auto parts store carrying it. The intervals at which they schedule maintenance is 15,000, 30,000, 60,000, miles etc. If you routinely service your vehicle just wait til 90,000. However, if you've missed replacing fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor do so at this time. If your budget allows buy original parts they last longer. If your service soon light is on take it to the dealer it's only $59.00 for the diagnostic. Mike

How do I check the transmission fluid on a 1983 Honda Civic 1500DX

Look at the radiator, it should be in the front. It has a cap on it, take it off and you can put coolant in side.

1. Buy the correct-fit replacements. Correct replacement windshield wiper blades are not only correct length, but also correct attachment. Never just buy by length only. Always lookup your vehicle in an application guide at the store or now-a-days you can 'lookup wiper size' online. The key to an easy install is correct size/correct part numbers.

2. The new replacement wipers will have step-by-step, illustrated instructions. Take your new wiper blades and instructions out to your vehicle and physically get the old and new wipers in your hands and take a look. The instructions will make 100% sense once you're looking and touching them.

3. Most wiper replacements do not require tools and take approximately 2-15 minutes.

This is listed in your owners manual. If you don't have one, it should also be listed under the hood on a placard. When you purchase the plugs they are pre-gapped at the factory but it is still a good idea to check them. The parts store can also provide the correct gap.

On the back of the engine casing

When the mommy wookie and the daddy wookie like each other very much, they like to **** without a condom! I would rather not go into details because it will destroy the young child's mind with adult stuff

13.5 Gallons maximum capacity.

Both the DX and LX trim models have a D15B2 engine. 1.5L single overhead cam. The SI trim has a ZC engine.

20w50

1 day. The fun part will be getting the cover to seal & removing installing the balancer. you need the right tools for that.

it means your alternator isn't generating enough juice in the lower revs. Check your alternator belt and see if its loose. If it is loose, then tighten.

I have the battery light too, my belt was loose. I charged my battery.

Check the voltage on the alternator, pumping 18V. Disconnected the battery when running, and the car continues to run. It's not the alternator.

I've started the car and the light won't go away. I've tried disconnecting the battery and the fuses for the ECU and backup, so that the error codes disappear. Light still stays on.

I don't need to drive today, since I already did my shopping.

For me maybe driving after a few clicks the ECU will detect and the light will disappear.

most newer cars will take a .40-.45 gap.

transmission removal is a serious job, and will require many tools, and lots of time.

Lower:

first raise the vehicle and support it well using jack stands. make sure the jack stands are not under the subframe of the vehicle, but on the pinch welds of the body. start by draining the transmission fluid. from under the vehicle, remove the 6 bolts in the lower engine to transmission brace, there are also two 10mm bolts in the exhaust that must come out. remove the exhaust hangers from in front of the catylitic converter. Remove the flywheel to torque coverter bolts (automatic) Unbolt the passanger side CV axle support bearing housing from back of engine block. Unbolt the two lower transmission mounting bolts, one on the front of the motor, other on the rear. Unbolt the powersteering rack and pinion, remove the brake line fastner from the far rear of the subframe, remove the three 13mm nuts from the bottom portion of the exhaust manifold. unplug the transmission speed sensor, remove the shift cable from the nutural safety switch. the trans shift cable is held into the body of the transmission by pressure clips. they are a pain in the rear but you can get them if you work at them long enough. remove the wireing harness from the nutural safety switch.

Sides:

remove front tires. Unbolt strut from steering spindle using 18mm wrench to hold one side, and a 21mm socket to turn the other side. use a 18mm socket to remove the lock nut on the Tie rod end. The tie rod end usually is stuck in place, use a small 3 lb sledge and hit the spindle where the tie rod goes though. becarefull not to hit the tie rod. remove the axle nut 30mm. use a air hammer to push the axle through the spindle. Use a CV Axle cup on a slide hammer to remove the axle from the transmission. If these tools are not available, a small to mid size prybar fom underneith will work as well. this must be done on both sides. On the driver side, remove the two 10mm bolts in the lower transmission mount.

Up top:

Remove the air intake tube along with air filter housing. remove the battery. remove the battery tray, there is a hidden bolt in the driver side wheel well that goes through the body into the lower part of the tray, 13mm. remove the wireing harness to the top of the transmission (7mm) remove all the wireing connectors on the front of the transmisison. remove transmission lines from front of transmission, you can usually pinch the plastic ends together and they pop right out. Remove the dog bone arm assembly from the front of the transmission to the body. support the engine using a "T" style brace across the strut towers, and from the rear cowl to front radiator support. Use wire and tie the radiator fan shroud to the "T" brace. From underneith the vehicle loosen the two front frame bolts. from outside the car, on either side, loosen and remove the two rear frame bolts. the subframe does have some weight, about 60lbs, so be sure it doesnt fall on you. remove the subframe from under the vehicle. if you have a flat plate adaptor for your jack, now is the time to use it. if not, the transmission only weighs about 60lbs. as you loosen the two top transmission bolts be aware that the transmission will basically fall to the ground. Reinstallation is just opposite of removal. its time consuming, but after you have done about a dozen.... you kind of get used to it :)

Depends on sub-model (ex,lax, dx,cx,Si, etc)

Ex: d16y8, 1.6L SOHC VTEC with 127 hp

Si: b16a2 1.6L DOHC VTEC with 160 hp and only had a 5-speed manual transmission, no automatic option.

All others (lx, dx, etc) have a d16y7 non-VTEC rated at 106 hp

1p

No

The 2002 Honda Civic runs on regular unleaded.

Its located on the back side of the engine tucked very high up under the intake manifold and has a long top bolt 14 MM that is one of the hardest bolts to both get out and back in. Just finished my replacement August 17, 2011, took six hours mostly due to working underneath the car and very little access to the terrible bolt.

Remove the exhaust pipe and the bracket bracing the plastic intake manifold.

Used 3 wadded up paper shop towels tucked on electric motor side of started to get the new started held in place while spending 3 hours to get the upper bolt back in. Recommend a full lift for this job, my jack stands and a crawler and extremely tight places!!. Will need every extension and 1/4 drives to get this bolt back.

No.

you just simply refill transmission fluid at the dip stick

The top speed for a 2001 Honda civic 5 speed is 115 mph.

seat belts: 4

2 in front and 2 in back