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Honda Civic LX
The LX is a rebadged sixth-generation model of the Honda Civic. It was previously available only as a four-door car. It features 14-inch wheels, power locks and windows, front stabilizer bar, power steering, cruise control, cargo area light and a tachometer.
2,709 Questions
Where is the fuel pump located on a 1995 Honda Civic?
MOST CARS WITH EFI HAVE THE PUMPS IN THE GAS TANK . IF NOT THERE TRY ON THE SUBFRAME OF THE CAR NEXT TO THE TANK. BUT ON THIS CAR I DONT KNOW HOPE THIS WILL HELP?
it is located under the rear seat.
What could cause a cylinder 4 misfire code on a 1999 dodge ram 1500?
Bad spark plug, plug wire. I hade that problem it was a cracked head "Expensive"
you need a good manual (haynes is fine) for this job. i could try to explain it but even after seeing the photos and drawings in the manual i had to take it apart to understand.
short version: remove instrument panel; remove kick panel above driver's legs; remove steering wheel; remove plastic trim cover behind steering wheel under steering column. turn key to 1st (ACC) position and THEN reaching through instrument panel opening, pull wiring harness off back of switch. through instrument panel opening, remove pinch bolt in clamp holding ignition lock to steering column. press and hold spring loaded button that was hidden under clamp and wiggle lock assembly away from column slightly. pry off trim ring around where the key goes in the lock. make sure key is again at 1st position, then stick 2mm dia wires into the 2 little holes opposite each other in rim around keyhole. pull out lock tumbler with key. rotate entire ignition lock assembly as required and pull away from steering column. reach through key opening in dash and pull off electrical connection as it becomes visible. pull vacuum hoses off lock assembly on left. you will swear the assembly won't fit past to come out but it will, barely.
I came across this problem on my dads '87 190e 2.6. To remove the barrel assembly it is necessary to be able to turn the key to the first position to insert the U shaped 2mm wire, however, if the steering lock is jammed up it is NOT possible. The only solution we could find is to cut the assembly in half where the 3 rivets hold the steering lock bolt and ignition barrel/switch parts together with a junior hacksaw and completely replace the unit.
Why are the fans not blowing warm air when the heat is on on a 1999 Honda civic?
Sounds like your heater hose going to the heater core is stopped up some where along the way, Or your thermostat is broken. Otherwise if there is hot water getting to the core then it WILL blow warm air.
Where is the IAT sensor located on a 1989 Honda Civic SI?
In the intake manifold plenium, its a 2 wire sensor
What is the front speaker size for a 2001 Honda civic coupe?
in most cases they will be 5 1/4 inch speakers you can fine them at most wal marts for replace ment if you do not already have some new ones to go in
How do i change the fuse of a Honda cm 125?
Take off the right side panel, on the left side of the battery you will see a red wire. This is connnected to the starter solenoid, trace along the red wire till you find a plastic fuse holder open it and you will be able to see if the fuse has blown.
Where is the igniter unit on a 92-95 Honda Civic?
Remove the distributor and under that the rotor. There is an inner cover to remove if fuel injected engine. The igniter unit should now be visible having 4 wires connected. Manuals found here http://www.mininova.org/tor/548242 http://thepiratebay.org/tor/3429216/Full_Manual_For_Honda_Civic_92-95 Section 23 - 97...120
the servo that is activated when u press the brake might be bad or it could be a blown fuse or a broken wire
What size speakers does a 93 Honda civic del sol have?
And for those of you that were interested in the actual question the Del sol has 5.25 in the front. The rear is unknown. [edit]They have 6.5 inch round speakers in the back. If yours don't have them, then the grills will cover the holes with material which easily cut away. If yours don't have them then you'll also be missing the necessary adapters to fit them in there. The enclosure looks like an L and the speaker goes in the right angle of that L. You may get lucky and buy the adpater/retainer on ebay, otherwise you can fabricate a retainer out of sheet metal. My 6.5s fit perfectly inside the hole, I just fabricated individual retainers for each screw that held on the grills. Hard to describe here without a picture.
How many gallons of gas can a 2000 4 door Honda C ivic lx hold?
A 2000 Honda Civic sedan hold approximately 13.2 gallons of gas. The gas light will turn on when the gas reaches less the 10.1 gallons.
The ALB light comes on because of a malfunction in the Anti-Lock brake system, simply this means that you will have no ALB, but normal braking will continue.
Your Honda civic shuts off when I drive in the rain?
Moisture related problems occur in the ignition system. The distributor as well as the internal iginition coil need to be tested.
How do you change the speakers on a 2001 Honda Civic?
The coupe's have 6.5 in the door and 6 x 9 in the rear. The sedans have 6.5's all around. The front are not to bad. This is for a 2001 Civic DX Sedan. You will need a multi unit screwdriver, removal tool (I used a thin butter knife and it worked just fine) but a real one would be much better, it is for prying the plastic pieces off without damaging them. You could also use a screwdriver but you would probably damage them. You will also need a drill unless you find a good 6 in. speaker to fit factory bracket but good luck. I used a 6.5 inch that came with an adaptor. Pry open the little "hatch" behind the door opener and take out the two screws there (they should be magnetic screws), then take out the door opener assembly as far as you can. Slide the clip on the metal rod to the side and then you can remove the assembly from the metal rod. Pry off the small metal clip from the inside of the window winder. I found it easiest to use a coathanger with a very small bend at the end. Get it hooked in and pull making sure to watch if it flies somewhere. Pull the handle off and re-attach the clip so you don't lose it. I found that the first time I did this it was the hardest part of the whole installation as hooking that clip can be very frustrating.
Pry off the bottom/front part of the door handle and you will see two recessed screws (NOT the plainly visable ones, leave those alone), take those out. You can then start prying around the edge of the door panel. There are seven clips you need to pry out. I found it easier to start at the bottom. Once they were out then I lifted up and away from the front of the car to get the door panel off.
You should now have access to the speaker. Press down on the top of the bracket and pull out and the speaker should pop out. Put new speaker in and replace all parts in reverse order.
Note: It is a weird shape hole so if you can find a good speaker to fit the factory bracket then use that bracket, the factory speaker is a 6 inch not 6.5 and you can use 6.5's you just need some modifications. I bought 6.5 in good speakers that came with a bracket adaptor and wire harness. I just clipped the harness to the factory one (no cutting/soldering/taping). Attach bracket to speaker, drill new holes and attach.
2nd note: You have to get a shallow mount speaker or it won't fit. I went to a well know company online and bought the speakers and it came with the harness/adaptor and step by step instructions. (crutchfield)
REAR SPEAKERS:
LOOK IT UP AS IT IS A REAL PAIN, YOU CANNOT GO IN BY THE TRUNK. YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE REAR SEAT OUT AND THE BACK PANEL OUT TO ACCESS THE SPEAKERS.
To get the valve cover stud out all you need is a 10mm socket and rachet it and after the valve covers off it should just come right off using the socket. but you will have to replace it
How do you replace alternator belt on '91 Honda Civic?
The answer for this question is very similar to the question for replacing the alternator. It can also be used to understand how to replace the power steering belt and the a/c compressor belt (as their removal is necessary for replacing the inmost belt- the alternator belt). This answer assumes that you understand basic terminology and have an appropriate selection of tools (metric sockets and combination wrenches, screwdrivers, lug wrench, jack and stand, etc) and replacement parts (i.e. the new belt). Consider having a replacement power steering belt and a/c compressor belt on hand if the old ones need replacing when you inspect them- it's easy to do at this point and hard later. 1. Using a frame mount jack point and jackstand (for safety), remove the driver's side wheel. 2. Remove the plastic fairing at the front end of the wheel well by unscrewing the plastic screws *Note, for the next steps, you need to understand that the devices that run off belts from the crankshaft pulley use a common method for mounting- the whole device is mounted at 2 points- a pivot point along the back that allows the whole device to arc up and down- to loosen or tighten the belt- and a clamp nut on a curving slide point. Think like an old style circle drawing compass- the hinge at the top is the main mount point and the curving slide point is a "clamp" to keep the arc the same (and keep the belt tight). 3. Find the pivot nut and "adjustment slide clamping nut" for the top front device (I think it's the power steering booster). The pivot nut is on the outboard side of the device and the adjustment slide bolt is on the inboard side just below it. I think they are both 12mm. Loosen them to "finger loose" but don't remove them. The device should tilt down and the belt should slip off easily. 4. Find the pivot nut and slide clamp nut for the alternator and loosen them to finger tight. I think they're both 12mm too. 5. Crawl under the car and loosen the pivot nut for the adjustable idler that holds the power steering belt tight. It's up in the middle in between the crankshaft pulley and the compressor. The compressor is not movable, but the idler is. 6. This is important! Loosen the clamp nut (14mm) for the idler- it is the nut on the idler pulley. It's difficult to loosen without a long box end wrench, but it can be done with a short wrench and a breaker bar. It's too close to the side to fit a socket wrench in there. Then, climb out from under the car. 7. Using 10mm socket and long extension, turn the idler tension screw (you'll see its head just aft of the power steering booster) to loosen the a/c compresser belt. I'm pretty sure you turn it counterclockwise to loosen, but check to see if the belt is getting looser, and if not, go the other way. Leave it there on the nut if you can, you'll need it to replace the belt. 8. Crawl under the car and slip off the A/C compressor belt and the alternator belt. Crawl out and inspect all belts carefully for unusual wear or cracks. Replace a suspicious belt if in doubt- they're cheap and now's the time to do it. 9. Loop the new alternator belt over the alternator pulley and the power steering belt over its pulley. 10. Grab the A/C compressor belt and go back under the car. Position the alternator belt FIRST- important! It rides at the inmost point of the crankshaft pulley. Make sure it's aligned well or your belt will get chewed up. 11. Position the a/c compressor belt- loop it over the idler, then the compressor pulley, last over the crankshaft pulley. 12. Slip the power steering booster belt over the crankshaft pulley LAST. 13. Get out from under the car. At the back of the compartment, tension the alternator belt using a prybar or heavy screwdriver to pull the alternator away from the block. It doesn't take too much force. Use a good heavy piece of the alternator and block for this- if you guess wrong and break your alternator it's back to the store. Tighten the clamp nut (12mm) moderately. Check the tension by pressing moderately on the belt- it should have about 1/2" of "give" at the center of the span. Too tight and it will wear prematurely, too loose and it will squeal. Check an appropriate shop manual for exact specs. Once you have the belt tension right, tighten the clamp nut 1st, then the pivot nut. Check the position of the belt on the pulleys carefully to make sure the alignment is good after tightening. 14. Do the same with the power steering booster belt. 15. Use the 10mm socket + extension you left in place and turn clockwise to tighten the a/c compressor belt by moving the idler. Once tension is set, tighten the clamp bolt (14mm) on the idler pulley. Remove your 10mm socket and extension. 16. Make one last inspection of the belts and pulleys. Remove any tools in the engine compartment. 17. If your jackstand is pretty sturdy, you can crank over the engine at this point to see how the belts run. It won't hurt the engine to run with no driver's side wheel. If your belts look like they're running smoothly and not making any odd noises, you're in business! Turn off the engine when you're done making the check. 18. Replace the plastic fairing in the wheel well. 19. Replace the wheel and tighten the lugnuts "mostly tight". 20. Remove your jackstand and any other tools under the car. Lower the car and tighten the lugnuts all the rest of the way. 21. Close the hood and pat yourself on the back. You've just done a $100 repair!
If the lock cylinder is faulty, the entire steering column lock assembly will have to be replaced. reference " Haynes Repair Manual"
