Isuzu Rodeo

Sounds like a problem with the EGR system, or an intake air leak, could also be bad or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Dont forget to check the obvious plugged fuel filter.

Perhaps this color code chart can help:--- 12V battery wire = pink or pink w/white stripe--- 12V ignition wire = red w/white stripe--- Illumination = orange--- Power antenna = white--- Dimmer = none--- SPEAKERS--- Front left(+) = dark green--- Front left(-) = brown w/red stripe--- Front right(+) = purple--- Front right(-) = blue w/red stripe--- Rear right(+) = blue w/orange stripe--- Rear right(-) = blue w/white stripe--- Rear left(+) = brown w/blue stripe--- Rear left(-) = brown w/yellow stripe---

Two plugs that a 3/8 ratchet fit into on trans lower for drain upper for fill, after draining fill until fluid flows out upper plug, run the engine and cycle gears and do it again. finally check level by pumping in more fluid till it runs out again and you are done. have about 8 quarts of Dextron III on hand and a fluid pump to transfer it.

I've done it but it was years ago and I'm working from a poor memory. The grill has to come out to give you access to the fasteners holding the plastic bumper cover on. They are held by an ingenious little plastic clip that you access from the front of the vehicle. These "Clips" have to be rotated 90 degrees to unlock them and there are 8 or so total to undo. Look around the edges of the grill and you will spot them. once you get access to the bumper cover there are screws on the top and bottom of the cover that must be removed to get access to the bumper structure. The "bumper itself is pretty easy to replace as it is just bolted to the frame; getting access to it is the trick I think I also remove the headlights to allow access to the bumper cover as well. Good luck.

This job is fairly easy, saved my sister some change by not going to the dealer. 1. Take out the two screws just in front of the steering wheel . 2. Now, along the rim of the dash there are 5 or 6 more screws to remove. 3. The dash snaps in (along with those screws). 4. Take a screw driver and pry the snaps loose. (Be careful not to crack the dash.) Be gentle. 5. Behind the dash you'll find 4 thumb screws (plastic turns) w/bulbs. They cost approximately $5.00 when purchased new. Replace all of 'em. Now you can see how fast you're going. Good luck!

on the sides of the block are 2 square caps with phillps screws those are your spark plugs

The Rodeo has a 21.9 gallon tank..i had my rodeo for 11 years now..wouldnt trade it for anything...except another rodeo! The Rodeo has a 21.9 gallon tank..i had my rodeo for 11 years now..wouldnt trade it for anything...except another rodeo!

I would begin by unfortunately asking another question first. What is your experince level with pad and shoe replacement? Second I would advise the trip to the local parts store for one of Chiltons repair guides for your model and next listen to any advise the counter person has. Typically those folks have quite a bit of automotive experince and can save a lot of time and heartache with just a few words. Thirdly use good quality jack stands and a jack rated for the vehicle. Now then, while not being familiar with the 2003 model I will make a few assumptions and give you the standard truck with hub and shoes version. 1.Most important...level surface, break loose the lug nuts on the ground with the parking brake on as you will likely not be able to after it is off the ground...only crack them loose Do Not Back Them Off. 2. Chock front wheels take parking brake Off as it will prevent the hub removal later. 3. Jack up the wheel you will be working on and only do one side at a time (also a digital camera is great for reference if you do not have a picture or book to go by)MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS STABLE and on stands which are rated for its weight. 4.remove the lug nuts and wheel...now you are staring at the hub...it may be worn on the inside a little and the shoes may be inside a bit of a track making it difficult to remove. refrain from prying against the back plate as it is not really all that substantial. LIGHT tapping and I repeat LIGHT tapping around the outside of the drum sometimes shakes stubborn rotors...rubber mallet preffered. 5. once the (drum and hub...same thing)is off you should take note of the spring positions and at the top you will see the "wheel cylinder" it is the small deal (typically at the top with rubber ends that forces the shoes out to contact the hub)should be inspected...it should be dry..that is no break fluid..brake dust is going to be there..but if any fluid is around in there it will have to be replaced.6. now is the nice time to take a poloroid or digital photo so you know where things are and how they should look when you are finished...also now is the time for inspection of the inside of the hub..drum whichever you want to call it...its minimum thickness is often cast into the metal...if not the library or Chiltons manual will tell you if you are below that thickness...replace if needed..do not skimp on brake parts..they are far to important (a car that won't start is a bad thing.....a car that won't stop is a deadly thing.)7.brake spring pliers are available if you like at most auto stores and they make things easier...if that gets into the budget too much a good pair of regular pliers will work...carefully remove the springs noting their condition and position...if they look pitted..cracked..just plain not good replace them...spring kits are sold separately most of the time...in fact always in my experience.8. remove all the springs and shoes..the little coil springs with the cup retainers are usually the ones that cause the invention of new and exiting curse words...it sometimes helps to have a friend hold the nail looking rod while you turn the retaining cup...especially for installation.9. clean everything...do your best to keep any oil grease or fluid off of the new shoes as this will contaminate them and reduce their stopping power and longevity.10. Put her back together with those shiney new parts and refer to you own sketches..photos or manuals to see that everyting looks as it should and that the self adjuster rod...( the thing with the spur like wheel attached is contacting its actuator and that the parking brake cable...you will know it when you see it...is attached and looks like it should.11. put the hub(technically the hub is the flat plate with the lug bolts in it now that I think about it...)..put the drum back over it and access the adjuster wheel from the back side..adjust the new shoes until you just make contact with the hub. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts as much as you can before returning the vehicle to the ground. Once back on the ground fully tighten the lugs in oposition to on another..no1.then6.then 2. then 4..my numbers are arbitrary...but you get what i mean..Now that side is done so go to the next one...it will be much easier now that you have the experience...mostly try to keep a cool head and frequent stops for walking around and regaining composure are perfectly o.k. ....it will keep you safe and cost you less in the long term...Good luck sincerely Randy R. Lex KY let me know how it comes out.....richardsonrandal@yahoo.com

first open the hood and find the oil fill cap, it is on the engine top and is plastic, open it then get under the car, there is the oil pan,from the side it is in the center under the shifter assembly, it has only one bolt head coming out of it, take off that and the oil will come out, let it drain, and put the bolt back in. the oil filter is near the front and looks like a metal cup sideways unsrew it and put a new one on the fill up the oil through the oil fill cap to five and a half quarts. start the car check for leeks, if none shut off car and check dipstick for oil level

1989 thru 2002 Rodeo, Passport, or Amigo 4x2 or 4x4.

Check the fuse. Look in your owners manual for the location of the fusebox & a diagram of the fuses. Conversely, if you already know the location of the fusebox, there is usually a diagram in or near it.

Yes

This problem is typically caused by a bad differential speed sensor that can be easily replaced by your mechanic for about $300 ($200 for parts, $200 for labor). If you are mechanically inclined you can fix it yourself for about $100 in parts from the Arizona Autohaus web site. After fixing it you will need to calibrate the speed sensor in the following manner:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=193043

The owners manual states stop the car immediately. Shut it off, start it up again and for about

quarter to half mile do not exceed 8 mph, go slow and the light will shut off. If the light comes back on,

repeat the same. If it does not go off or it returns, have it serviced.

<jhoover58> Someone edited out the rest of my answer, I've added it back here. There is one additional problem that many mechanics can't find. That is a wire has broken between the abs brake module and the speed sensor on the differential. Unplug the abs module and speed sensor connection then perform a continuity test on each wire. If you find a bad wire, splice in a new one to see if the light goes out. That fixed my problem but not until I had already spent $300 on a mechanic who at the end said I needed a new abs module, a new complete wiring harness to go along with the new speed sensor he put in that didn't fix the problem. I also spent days searching elsewhere for the problem. I wish I knew about the bad wire problem earlier.

your transmission is going out

In my 93 Isuzu Rodeo you have to add your transmission fluid buy poring it into the the transmission fluid dipstick.

How do I remove the front shock bottle pin of my Isuzu rodeo 2000

While the original answer below is true, a 1994 Rodeo does have an transmission fluid dipstick. It is right behind the oil dipstick and is where transmission fluid it added.

Many vehicles are being manufactured without a transmission dipstick. Transmissions are being held to a quality that has minimized the loss of transmission fluid to the point that manufacturers no longer feel that it is necessary to routinely check the fluid levels.

The philosophy has changed. If you follow the manufacturers recommended service schedule the transmission fluid and filter will be serviced before you should need to be concerned about fluid levels. You can change the filter and fluid yourself by dropping the pan, removing and replacing the filter, replacing the pan and adding fluid through the side fill/test hole in the transmission.

im sorry i don't kno the gap for the plugs but do you kno the size of the spark plug socket i need and how hard is it really to change these. i have a 95 Isuzu rodeo v6 3.2 please any help would be great hit me up at omenz33@ yahoo.com

Sounds like a faulty btsi solenoid (brake transmission shift interlock). Key on push on the brake and listen for a click by the shifter. If no click try wiggling the shifter and pushing forward.

Mine is the LS, V6, 5-speed manual, and I have 254,677 miles on it and still running just fine.

== == First off Your Honda is really an Isuzu Rodeo, but you already knew that. These have the GM electronic egr. if you have the 3.2 motor. The only way to fix it is to replace the egr valve.

Your 3.2 liter V6 engine has a timing BELT

5 139.7mm/5.5

Transmission fluid level: As you don’t have an ATF dipstick, you will have two plugs facing downward on the larger trans pan. The plug higher up on the pan is the fill/level check (stamped/recessed into the rear right corner of pan). ATF should just dribble from this plug on a hot, idling truck, in neutral on a level surface. The lower one is the drain. The one at the back of the pan in a recess is the filler. You need a hand pump or something similar to fill it to overflowing then top it off with the engine running. Make sure you shift through the gears a couple of times when topping off.