Isuzu Rodeo

Buy a kit at Wal-Mart or auto parts comes with instructions You shouldn't...freon in your car is under high pressure and takes special equipment to do properly. In addition, today's cars require a very specific quantity of freon to work properly. Too much will result in high internal pressures and heat, too little will prevent proper lubrication...both of these conditions will lead to an early death of the compressor and a very expensive repair. There is an organization where you can get more info, and I have help in locating good mechanics on my site. See the related links for more info. Hope this helps!

Remove the decorative cover from the face of the clock. Remove the retaining screws from the clock. The light will be in the back of the clock. Push the light in and turn at the same time to remove the light. Reverse the process to install the new light.

First, reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect. If the CHECK ENGINE light still comes on, check the gas cap and make sure it is tight. Due to emission rules (OBDII), the computer checks to make sure the gas cap seals the gas tank. You might have to replace the gas cap.

I have a 95 blazer and the passenger side back seat has more than once refused to go down.

There is a thin cable inside the back of the seat and is supposed to hook and secure by means of a small ball at the end of the cable into a slot on the back of the seat located under the latch that you pull on to lower the seat. The cable slips down inside of the back - but unfortunately I haven't figured out how to get to it - except to take it to a dealer - which I don't do anymore.

You will probably have to remove the seat back cover. It is close at the bottom with a "J and arrow" or two j-straps. I would begin by taking those apart (use a screwdriver to help). See if you can feel around and figure out the problem. It you have to take the trim completely off you will need to remove the headrests. Good luck.

In some cases the seat will get jammed and you have to push the seat back then pull the handle

depends on the year of the car.

1996 GL, yes. Over by the headlight switch, you can pop the plate out and move right. take out screws in the dash, most located in the vents. pop the fount of the dash out and then above the gauges you will see the lights, remove by turning the bulbs. have fun getting the dash apart!!

You need to either possess a code reader and plug it into the port under the dash on the drivers side, or take it to the dealer who will read it for a fee, or a parts store who will read it for free. Then using that information you can cross the numerical code to a fault reason and figure out what needs to be repaired from there.

On a Ford Expedition the left bank ( Bank 2 ) is the drivers side of the engine

1. Move the driver's seat forward, and locate the security system control unit mounted on the underneath the seat.

2. Turn on ignition switch on.

3. Press and hold the green programming button on the control unit with a pen. you will have to poke through a hole about the size of a pencil located on the side of the unit. when the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the program button, (Step 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)

4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter, check that the LED goes out chirps once, and the front marker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code worked by the control unit.

5. if you have other transmitters to program, repeat steps 3 and 4.

6. Turn the ignition switch off to exit the programming mode.

p225 / 75 r 15

p235/ 75 r 15

Check the condenser drain line. You will find that it is stopped up and water cannot drain out. Look under the car, usually on the passenger side near the firewall. Use a blunt tool like a pencil to unclog the line.

2

In my case, the coolant overflow line was clogged. It is in manifold underneath the radiator cap, where thin tube is connected. As secondary problem to it, the coolant was leaking from the cap because of over-pressure.

6.0 for the 3.2 liter

More Info:

It sounds like there is water rushing back and forth under the drivers seat to under the gas pedal. The floor board is wet under the pedals. I can't see where there might be water stored. We just had a good amount of rain and this problem started right afterwards.

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The water may be trapped inside the driver's door. All vehicles have drain holes at the bottom of the doors to drain water. These holes in most cases are very small. An accumulation of crud can plug those drain holes. You can drill a few 1/4" holes at the lowest point under the door to let it drain or you can disassemble the door panel and clean it out.

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There's no water in the door. I just checked. It sounds like it's in the frame of the vehicle running underneath the drivers seat from behind it to almost the front left wheel well. I can hear it slosh around if I'm moving and I hit the brakes. Or when I'm stopped and I accelerate. Very weird.. It's been 4 days since it's rained and I can still hear it inside the floor pretty much.

Its ur lifters I have the.same.prob one of.ur.valves isn't getting that much oil

check for key lock left hand front door jamb

The way to check the transmission fluid level is you run the vehicle in park until operating temp. When operating temperature is reached then there is a plug in the transmission pan pull out just the middle of it to check fluid.

On the back corner of the transmission pan towards the passenger side a little higher up on the pan is the fill plug. There are two plugs so do not open the one on the bottom because that is the drain plug. You'll need something like a siphon pump to fill into the plug hole. You can get one at walmart for under $10.

As i found out on My Explorer, Bank 1 failure depends on the code being issued; If it is code PO171 orPO174, You have an issue with the oxygen sensors, due to moisture. Replace all oxygen sensors. I know, sounds expensive and it is, But vehicles depend on them for better fuel economy and proformance. Changing fuel filter, pcv valve and air filters may help but wont last. The mass air-flow sensor is also another item to keep clean since air-fuel mixture is determined by this equiptment.

Mine Doesn't

Starter is on passenger side of motor underneath intake bolted to trans bellhousing.

your car may be leaking coolant into the engine, i.e your head gasket may be bad

first take off your front tire.for me its easy this way.you will see the tie rod.remove the pin and take the bolt off.you probably need the ball joint removal tolls.its a Y shape you can rent it to any auto parts like advance auto parts.or use the hummer with 2 by 2 wood cut it to four inches.put the wood of the top of the tie rod stud and hummer it down.you probably dont need the wood coz you going to replace it anyway.just bang it.im sure it come out. after that you see the inner or outer tie rod.the end of your tie rod you have the small bolts make sure you dont unscrew those.just your tie rod.

There are about 40 reasons why.

1. External Oil Leaks

2. Front or Rear Main Bearing Seals

3. Worn or Damaged Main Bearings

4. Worn or Damaged Connecting Rod Bearings

5. Worn or Damaged Camshaft Bearings

6. Worn Crankshaft Journals

7. Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders

8. Distorted Cylinders

9. Clogged "PCV" Valve

10. Honing Abrasive

11. Worn Ring Grooves

12. Cracked or Broken Ring Lands

13. Worn Valve Stems and Guides

14. Bent or Misaligned Connecting Rods

15. Worn or Improperly Fitted Wrist Pins or the Wrong Pins

16. Wrist Pins Fitted Too Tightly

17. Clogged Oil Passages

18. Unequal Tightening of Main Bearing Bolts or Connecting Rod Bolts

19. Unequal Tightening of Cylinder Head Bolts

20. Dirty Cooling System

21. Dirty Oil

22. Too Much Oil in Crankcase

23. Incorrect Piston Rings for Type of Engine or Type of Service

24. High Engine Vacuum

25. Worn Timing Gears or Chain

26. Piston Rings Fitted with Too Little End Clearance

27. Worn or Broken Piston Rings

28. Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves

29. Late Valve Timing

30. Oil Pressure Too High

31. Oil Viscosity

32. Piston Slap

33. Internal Gasket/Intake Breach

34. Spark Knock

35. Aftermarket Performance Chips and Modifications

36. Lugging Engine

37. Inappropriate Operation of Overdrive

38. Leaking Turbocharger Seal

39. Restricted Air Intake

40. Fuel Dilution

I would start with the PVC and Dirty Oil.

Hope This Helps.

This is such a broad question! What is it doing to make you ask "how to fix?"

the charge relay works like a big fuse and stops parts burning out from higher voltage charge