Isuzu Trooper

Unscrew a hose at the lowest point, and drain the fluid into a pail. Remove and replace the lines one at a time, making sure to route the new lines the same.

the fuel filter should be inside the engin compartment near the front it is about 6 inches long with a round disk on top for primeing it,

My 1990 Isuzu Trooper II holds 20.5 US gallons.

Are you familiar with a Trooper with an automatic transm. with torque on demand, slamming into gear while up shifting and downshifting?

Here is an update , which I'm sure you would be interested in. It seems, as long as I squeeze deliberately on the shift button while placing into gear which should cause none of the loose U-Joint sound as I described previously, then I have no problems. In other words: if there is a clunk sound when in engaging into gear, stop, and re-do, until no noise is detected and a smooth, seamless transition into gear is achieved.

I have not had another incident since.

UPDATE: I have been told the cause is a dirty or wet, range mode switch, which is attached directly below the shifter.

It's a sealed unit, so no fill tube. I know there's two screws you can remove, at least to top it off...maybe to fill it too (I don't know if one is a drain or not - it's been a long time since I've looked). IIRC, there's a radiator in the front, so splice into the ATF hoses and flush it as an alternative means to doing it. Honestly, I've just broken 200k miles on my 1998 Trooper, and have never touched the fluid, except to try to top it off once, but it was full. If you haven't done it before, don't start messing with it at high mileage.

You didn't give the year model of your Trooper, but I doubt there is much difference.

1. Go to Wal-Mart or Auto Parts store and buy a can of refrigerant and installer kit.

(you can buy a combination unit, but if it's an ongoing problem, buy the individual units.

The hose/valve ran about $10.00 and I bought coolant for high mileage units with stop leak.

2. Easy enough to follow directions on the can, but.

There is an inlet valve near the firewall on the drivers (U.S) side with a light green screw off cap. (Look at your installation hose - it will show you the size you are looking for.)

Crank the car and turn the A/C on max cool.

Connect the hose to the valve, turn the can 45 degrees and start slowly shaking & twisting the can to agitate the coolant.

There should be a gauge on the hose to show you pressure in your system, but you're going to use the whole can, maybe 2, so don't worry about overfilling.

When it's empty, the can warms up so you'll know it's done.

Disconnect, replace the cap, and check in the Trooper to see if it's chillin.

OR,

Take it somewhere and pay over a hundred bucks.

Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator Remove thermostat housing Clean both surfaces Replace gasket Re-install housing Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an airlock Start engine and look for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Re-check coolant level

Remove fan shroud, fan, and belts. Get a 15/16 socket and remove the nut that holds the crankshaft pulley on and remove the pulley. You really need to get a Haynes or Chilton manual cus this part has to be done right or you are letting yourself in for all kinds of trouble. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers and make a diagram of where the bolts go, as they are not all the same. You MUST align the marks on both the camshaft pulleys with the little dots on the timing belt covers.(at 3 o'clock)This should align the key on the camshaft pulley with the hash mark on the inside cover(at 3 o'clock also). Remove the two bolts holding the hydraulic belt tensioner in and remove it. You will need to compress it in a vise and put a nail thru the holes in it to be able to reinstall it. Then slip the timing belt off. Be SURE you DO NOT move the pulleys out of alignment. The water pump is in the top center of the block, has 11 or 12 bolts in it. Remove it, clean the gasket area and replace it. And then reassemble. It is not easy, and I had a Haynes manual to help me.

Online would be the best suggestion. You can find different ranges of prices with the description of the costume. A disadvantage would be the unavailability to inspect the condition of the clothing.

Look for a sticker by the radiatior, or under the hood.

Hi I have owned a Vauxhall rebadge Trooper for 11 years of trouble free motoring and I love her,fuel filter lift bonnet and the filtre is right hand side near battery ,with a primer pump on top of mounting that you press,seek advice on renewing filtre ,more so if diesel

on my 4x4 sohc 3.2 it was unhook the negative cable on the battery then remove the connectors from the starter unbolt the starter flip it over and it should slide out between the front axle and the bar that's in front of it you may have to move some of the wiring out of the way but mine slid out and back in no problem

Radio antennae are located in the rear side windows.

torque settings are:

4JG2 cylinder head, 49 Nm + 60 degrees + 60 degrees.

The 1990 Isuzu 2.8 liter engine MAF sensor can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The sensor will be on the passenger side of the firewall.

You do not have to remove it, but doing so will make the boot replacement a whole lot easier. Being able to clamp the axle in a vice is much nicer than trying to work around the front suspension pieces.

When you've got an Isuzu Trooper Alternator going bad, you've got all kinds of problems. If your battery isn't charging completely and quickly, you can get stranded, and if your interior electronics aren't getting the power they need, they're not functioning the way they should. You need to replace your Isuzu Trooper Alternator right away, and you want to make sure you get a quality replacement, because you don't want to have to do this again any time soon.

I didn't see value in the above answer so here is mine:

Pretty much like all alternators:

1:Disconnect negative battery cable.

2:Loosen adjuster lock, remove tension on belt, remove belt from alternator.

3:remove adjuster bolt (the one that goes into the alternator).

4:remove electrical connections - one is fastened with a small nut -> goes to battery. The other is a simple plug. There are two kinds of plugs. Make sure the replacement is the same kind of plug (depends on amperage).

5:remove long pivot bolt.

6:Remove alternator through the passenger-side wheel well.

Installation is reverse

Takes about 1-2 hours.

Oil dipstick and tranny dipstick tigether on rear of engine, next to firewall, on drivers' side of vehicle.

timing marks for 1996 Isuzu trooper

If your trooper has an automatic, there will be a separate dipstick like the engine oil you can check.

If it is a standard, you need to get under the vehicle and there will be a bolt plug on the side of the engine, (refer to Haynes manual for specific place). You pull the bolt and put your finger in and the fluid should just be at the tip of your finger.

I have a 2001 Isuzu Trooper with an automatic transmission and the present answer doesn't help me. I do not have a separate dipstick for the transmission fluid as I have found on my other cars.

There is no dipstick on your auto trans. Checking it is a real PITAThe trans pan has 2 plugs in it. The one on the very bottom is the drain. The one in the corner, up higher in a recess is the check/fill plug. To check, the engine must be warm and running, tranny in P. Remove the plug and fluid should dribble out. If it doesn't it's low, fill until it dribbles out, while engine is running. Obviously the truck must be on a lift or up on jackstands.

Thanks for the information also.. I have a 98 Trooper w/auto. trans. This type is called a close case which GM put in the small caddies.

Possible bad switches or partially disconnected wiring from the switches. Guess you'll need to pull the switches and check it out.

I have a 1994 Isuzu Trooper and it has issues upshifting at lower speeds. How do I check the fluid level in the transmission when there is no dipstick?

were is up shift relay on isuzu trooper automatic tramission & what does it do

1. Bleed coolant from system.

2. Disconnect negative terminal of battery.

3. Disconnect the 2 hoses going to the heater core, from the firewall. (Working from the engine bay)

4. Remove stereo head unit (Normally consisted of 4 blatantly visible screws securing the unit to the underside of dash)

5. Move stereo head unit to the side, or disconnect and set aside.

6. Remove ventilation passage ways. (Plastic tubes leading from heater assembly to vents) As well as the much larger blower passage, which can be found in the passenger floorboard closest to the firewall.

7. Remove all plugs/cords attached to heater assembly (The large plastic mass that seperates driver's side floorboards and passenger's side)

8. Remove the 4 nuts securing the heater assembly to the firewall.

9. Remove gauge cluster from it's housing by removing 2 screws in bottom corners.

10. Push gauge cluster aside and push on either side of the ventilation shaft to depress tabs on plastic vents. Remove both vents.

11. Pull heater assembly towards shifter, away from firewall until you have worked assembly far enough for the pipes of the heater core to clear the firewall completely. (Normally about 1-2 inches)

12. Remove entire assembly by maneuvering out the passenger's side floorboard and finally out of the vehicle.

13. Once out of the vehicle, locate heater core pipes, remove the 2 screws holding the heater core in place.

14. Pull the heater core out from left side of heater assembly.

To reassemble follow steps in reverse order.

---Just pulled mine out not 5 hours ago.

---1986 Isuzu Trooper II