Isuzu Trooper

THE FUEL PUMP ON THE 1986 ISUZU TROOPER 2 GAS 2.3 ENGINE IS LOCATED UNDER THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. YOU CAN GET TO IN BY TAKING OFF THE FRONT PASSENGER WHEEL AND RUBBER GARD AND YOU WILL SEE IT. I HAVE ONE OF THESE TROOPERS. HOPE THIS HELPS.

The water pump is located behind the three timing belt covers. The timing belt drives the pump, so the timing belt will have to be removed/replaced when changing the water pump. To get in there, remove the three belts, the cooling fan and its mount, the crank pulley (you'll need a puller), and the coolant tube in front of the covers, then the covers can be removed.

Manual transmission - built into the transmission

Automatic: This is what I did on my 95. 94 should be similar:

1:unscrew xfer shift knob.

2:remove center console - 4 Philips screws near carpet

3:remove ignition lockout cable from shifter (cable that comes from front of shifter assembly). It is on passenger sidt of main shifter mechanism. Compress plastic tangs with needle nose and pull off brass cable end - knda tricky. Do not break plastic tangs.

4: remove electrical connectors from shifter assembly

5:underneath vehicle, disconnect shifter linkage from tranny - should have a wave washer and a clip. You can remove either side - shifter or tranny.

6:remove 4 hex bolts and 2 Philips screws that mount the shifter assemply to hump in floor. Remove shifter assembly.

7:remove 2 bolts that mount xfer case shift lever - note alignment while removing. Remove xfer case shift lever.

8:disconnect front driveshaft from xfer case - DO NOT allow driveshafts to slide apart!

9:remove rear drive shaft from xfer case. Tie front of driveshaft up to chassis to get it out of the way or remove it entirely.

10:loosen bolts that hold xfer case to transmission. 2 are hidden just above transmission mount.

11:slide xfer case rearward to remove. It is awkward and weighs about 100-120 lbs and will kill you if it falls on any vital part of your person.

There you go.

When installing, replace transmission rear seal and put new grease on xfer shift lever mechanism. Put thin coating of grease on xfer case shaft that goes into transmission. Pay attention to 'rust' pattern of flanges when installing driveshafts. Also grease bolts that mount the shifter assembly to floor. Change fluid as well.

Good luck.

The total mileage life for a 2001 Trooper will depend on the maintenance as well as driving habits. Some troopers might wear out at just over 120,000 miles while others could last over 200,000 miles.

On the 4-cylinder (2.6 liter 4ZE1 engine), it's mounted vertically, under and centered on, the intake manifold, electrical connector pointing down. VERY hard to access, much more so to remove: it's screwed UP into the manifold; it's all but necessary to remove the manifold to get to it. And watch the myriad of vacuum lines. Good luck!

1805kg

Intake Throttle Position Sensor High Voltage

From your wording I think that you are still having over heat problems. Thermostat is only part of the system. You also have to check that your radiator is flowing and not clogged up. Also a bad fan clutch can cause it to run hot. A bad water pump or even a slipping or worn water pump belt.. If you have electric fans make sure they are coming on when they are supposed to.

The cylinder head gasket is blown. I'll bet the radiator burps alot and you're adding water/antifreeze all the time too, howzabout steam from the exhaustpipe? Hope you didn't crack or warp your cylinder head; good luck!

If its a 3.0 td model the crank sensor is situated on the o/s in the engine casing , its accesible from underneath with a long extension and a 10mm socket

Changing the bearings can become tricky, time consuming and sometimes brutal in front wheel drive assemblies. If you have damaged the bearings (and other stuff you don't know about yet) through abuse or accident you may find it easier and cheaperto get the whole front axle from a pull a part place; that's right' plug and play! The front wheel drives on alot of troopers where never used; secret's out now.

pretty easily.

1st draw a picture of how the old one goes on. Next find the spring loaded tension pulley and put a big wrench on it and lean. Your weight will compress to spring and the tension will come off the belt. It helps to have a second pair of hands. When the tension is off have the second pair of hands remove the old belt.

weave the new belt through the pulleys and compress the tension pulley and your done.

There isn't really a diagram that is all that good I've found. I just did mine.

Remove the wheel.

Remove the bolt (I think it's a 10mm) on the caliper and remove. Pull out old pads and replace with new pads. You will need to compress the rear piston to fit the new pads around the rotor. DO NOT USE A C-CLAMP. There will be 4 notches around the outside edge of the piston. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers that spanned to 2 of those notches across from one another. Once spanned, rotate the piston. Clockwise and counterclockwise it will turn. Just rotate it so that it is just above flush with the surrounding rubber seal (Not past it).

Be sure to clean all of the surfaces that the brake pad travels on "slides".

Chiltons or haynes manuels are great for step by step automotive

Famous Motorist and Mechanic John edvid Fernando disusa............

Check my isuzuparts.com

1: Make sure you get the right replacement light

2: Remove keys from ignition

3: Make sure lights are off

4: Open hood to vehicle

5: Locate the secure ring that is holding the light in place. Should be surrounded by a rubber membrane

6: Rotate the ring counter clockwise. This may take some muscle especially if it has been replaced before. It is a tight area to work but keep at it till the ring turns

7: Once the ring is unsecure pull the light straight back out of the headlamp. Again your working in a tight area.

8: Now come the difficult part. There is a white secure locking tab and a blick knuckle you can see thru the middle. Most tutorials say push down on the white tab and pull light out. WRONG!! The white tab will not release the bulb. Instead put on a pair of gloves cause your about to bust a knuckle or hurt your hand. Take a smaill flat head screa driver and wege it between the knuckle and the white secure tab. This takes great care and strength but can be done. But chances are your gonna hurt your hand a few times doing this. You should now have the flat part of the screw driver seperating the black knuckle from the white locking tab that many say push down on.

9: Now your about to bust your hand again. While pulling like hell on the white part, pull on the bulb..Keep pulling. The socket is probably dirty and really doesn't want to let the bulb come out.

10: Cuss

11: Keep pulling

12: Take a break

13: Try again

14: Cuss and threaten the car

15: Get a band aid

16: Finally get bulb out of socket and watch secure ring fly through the air. Cuss more

17: Be sure to be wearing gloves before touching new bulb. Oil from your hand will cause bulb to burst when turned on. Put secure ring back on making sure it is facing the right way and place new bulb in aligning the black knuckle to the secure locking tab.

18: Should hear it click. Test and make sure light works.

19: Line up light bulb with secure tab on top (very important)

20: Spin the secure locking tab till it lines up. You know when cause it will seat in further

21: Secure locking ring by turning it clock wise

22: Threaten car again

23: Have a beer

You don't check it you replace it. 1990-97 Replace at 60,000 miles 1998 Replace at 75,000 miles 1999 up Replace at 100,000 miles

There are 2 fuse boxes on that truck. one is under the hood on the passenger side it holds relays and fuses. The 2nd is inside the cab in the drivers side kick panel.

I HAVE THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM IV'E BEEN TOLD IT IS THE TCM {NO POWER GOING TO SHIFT SOLENOIDES} HOWEVER I CAN NOT FIND A USED TCM TO REPLACE IT I HAVE THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM IV'E BEEN TOLD IT IS THE TCM {NO POWER GOING TO SHIFT SOLENOIDES} HOWEVER I CAN NOT FIND A USED TCM TO REPLACE IT

From 1999 to 2002: 2WD: Protrudes from the transmission housing, just ahead of the propeller shaft. 4WD: Protrudes from the rear output shaft housing of the transfer case. Not sure about earlier years, but probably the same location,

On top in front of engine

I had this problem, the stick-shift was not fully in the 'park' position try and jiggle the stick.

With great difficulty is the short answer, involves lots of dismantling and then are normally seized in situ look on Isuzu Owners Club web site for details.

It is a wheel that allows for the vector (direction) of a force to be changed. So if I was pulling down on a pulley, the pulley could turn that into me pulling something up.

Where is the fuel cut of switch for a 03 isuzu trooper

depending on the finish, between $170 and $495.