Could be a loose or damageed wire harnessconnections at the distributor, coil or alternator. Also, check the intake manifold vacuum for leaks.check all the bolts and nuts are tight and all the vacuum hoses connected to the mainfold are attached properly.make sure there is good fuel pressure.Good luck
harmonic balancer has threaded holes for attaching the proper puller.remove big nut from shaft then use whell puller
take the wheel off depending on what model you may need a torx or socket to remove the caliper. remove caliper and old pads,then using a C clamp to depress the cylinder , so new pads will fit. then replace caliper and proceed to other side.
Have you checked for a relay that might have been damaged when the fuse blew? With an overcurrent, it is possible for the relay to pick up and then become 'welded' so it will not release. If you find the relay and remove the cover, the contacter should move when you apply a little pressure to it. If this doesn't happen, replace the relay. Much harder to check would be if insulation melted during the overcurrent and fused power to a horn and light wire. Relay for sure.
Yes you can. I did it to my 91 s10 however you wont have control over your wiper speed since its only a two position switch on/off. I have a 3 position switch on/off/on one for slow and one for high however I have not tried this out yet.
for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.
Call the utility company to check the supply to the house. If it is ok to the meter base and breaker panel, your house wiring is to blame
Ask the utility company to feel the transformer wiring connections. They can be extremely hot because of corrosion and this will cause flickering power sometimes.
Check the circuit breaker.
I had a friend who's lights were flickering. He had several people look into it. Electrician, Utility etc. No luck. We spent some time turning off breakers and we came to the realization that the circuit breaker's contact was bad. Replaced the breaker and voila no flicker.
Troubleshooting is the height of the art
The only reason there is "not enough voltage" somewhere is because there is a partially open connection providing resistance and a location to allow a voltage drop [bad splice, bad switch, bad breaker, broken wire, burned splice, ...].
It is the knowledge of how electricity works, and of the methods and materials used to create a functional wiring system, that enables a skilled troubleshooter to locate the problem and repair it.
Where should the "voltage" be, and how does it get there?
When you understand that, you will understand what is keeping it from getting where it should be...
As previously mentioned, a loose connection is often times the root of the problem. Are the lights in question all on the same circuit? If so, start at the panel and verify you have a solid connection to the breaker with the wire, and also from the breaker to the bus of the panel.
If all is good there, I would suggest looking in switch boxes for loose connections, starting at the one closest to the panel. Be sure to check both the hot splice and the neutral splice.
If all is good there, I would move on to the lighting boxes, again, starting at the light closest to the panel.
You may find as you do this, that the power is taken to the fixtures themselves, rather than to the switch boxes first. If this is the case, you may skip over the switch boxes.
Fixtures with non-dimmable compact flourescent lights will also flicker when put on a dimmer.
SAFETY FIRST: Turn off the breaker to minimize the risk of electrical shock!!
If you have any doubts about an answer that you get, check the answerer's bio by clicking on their name to check their qualifications.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
The float is probably stuck open.
With in 3-4 years, if you drive long periods of time you will get more time out of it because you will dry up the water in the pipe and it will not rust out as fast.
multiple reasons can cause overheating,usually the thermostat.But I found out it can also be The radiator being clooged,The fan clutch is faulty,or having a flex fan with out a shroud.It also depends on how it is driven. You may have the wrong size exhaust system if you or someone else have changed the engine from a 305 or smaller size. Could also be airlocked, a head gasket might be gone, water pump might be done as well. Hard to say. Depends on the circumstances and the progression of the ensuing issue. you can also bypass your heater core to make sure your heater core isn't clogged,your can also have your cooling system ckecked for leaks,and if you or someone has added alot of stop leaks to your cooling system that could also be the cause of your problems answer
the timing could be off and also you could have a reverse flow water pump (serpintine)
lOOK TO THE left side of the dash the panel is located on the end of the dash in what they call the left kick - panel but it is really part of the dash --- best JIM - 98 GC LTD.,
The alternator on my wife's Skoda Fellatio has just failed as well so I'm shopping round to order a new one.
Having had just a cursory look under the bonnet it all looks pretty straight-forward. There's a thin wire going to a plug that is, at a guess, the charging indicator. There's a thick wire that comes off of a stud and which goes directly to the positive side of the battery. This is presumably the main feed from the alternator. No other wires. Nice and simple.
Oh, and just three nuts/bolts holding the alternator in position. Should be a half-hour job to change one.
If its a diesel with power steering you are in for a shock, you need to take out the radiator to give clearance, take off the belt tensioner pulley wheel to withdraw one of the two bolts, (not three). The pulley bolt is left hand thread and is lifted clear to slacken the belt for removal by getting a spanner on it and lifting. Not as easy as it sounds, it has a strong spring and is a bit fiddly, once the belt is off you can then turn the bolt the other way to remove it and the pulley wheel. removing the left hand headlight helps a lot as you can work through the hole that is left. best to find a scrap yard that still lets you take bits off and do it there first on someone else's car. Its not as bad as it sounds but is not the twenty minute job I thought it would be. Good luck, Steve
If its a petrol with power steering and an MPI engine then you are in for an even bigger shock as I have only just discovered. Removing this type of alternator requires a special tool. Without the special tool IT CANNOT BE REMOVED.
The procedure is to undo the nut which holds the belt retentioning roller to the engine mounting. Sure, both upper and lower bolts can be removed however, without releasing the tension from the belt the alternator can neither be moved nor removed.
The problem exists due to the positioning of the alternator and the belt retentioning roller - there is only 1/2-inch clearance between the bolt-end of the roller and the wheel-arch.
The tool is not available for public use. I have spoken to Skoda who have confirmed this. Even if you could buy the tool it would cost somewhere between £40 - £70 (confirmed by Ashley Down Motors, Bristol, UK).
If you could get the car over to a garage who has the tool then you might be able to persuade them to undo the belt retentioning roller nut so that you can fit the alternator yourself on the roadside - although, they might not be happy about this so phone them first. It may also mean offering a token payment of say £10 or so.
try http://www.chiltonsonline.com/ Or Try http://www.the12volt.com/ and use their Vehicle Wiring information page.
The BEST manual, especially for detailed wiring information, is the original factory repair manual. It contains COMPLETE schematics.
For any Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler vehicle you can order it from http://www.techauthority.com/
That jeep could have either a Dana 35 in the rear or a Chrysler 8.25. The best way to tell the difference is if the U bolts are 3 inches wide than it is an 8.25, if there smaller than it's a Dana 35. Most have the Dana 35C with C-Clip. Some do use the Chrysler 8.25 design. Look on the rear differential housing (the "Pumpkin"), and there should be some markings. If it's a Dana, you should see "35C" printed on either side of the pumpkin.
you should have a diagram in the engine compartment passenger side front in the radiator area.if yours is damaged or missing try Arts corvette parts they are located in FT.Lauderdale florida,they are very helpful www.artscorvetteparts.com,telephone (954)763-1123. http://www.willcoxcorvette.com
You need to purchase a new motor. You can purchase one at a dealer, a parts store, or even a junk yard if you get lucky. If you don't know how to fix this yourself you should take it into the shop to have it done properly, and if you still have a warranty the dealership should be able to get you into their service department. Good luck.
There are two screws under the dashboard top plate, and two nuts at the windshild wiper post. That's only if you want to do it yourself. put 'masking' tape on both sides of you present wiper positions. About 2 hours. Care on the screws that hold the dash plate should be observed. It's plastic and fragile.
I have a 95 blazer and the passenger side back seat has more than once refused to go down.
There is a thin cable inside the back of the seat and is supposed to hook and secure by means of a small ball at the end of the cable into a slot on the back of the seat located under the latch that you pull on to lower the seat. The cable slips down inside of the back - but unfortunately I haven't figured out how to get to it - except to take it to a dealer - which I don't do anymore.
You will probably have to remove the seat back cover. It is close at the bottom with a "J and arrow" or two j-straps. I would begin by taking those apart (use a screwdriver to help). See if you can feel around and figure out the problem. It you have to take the trim completely off you will need to remove the headrests. Good luck.
In some cases the seat will get jammed and you have to push the seat back then pull the handle
Changing a Jeep Cherokee(XJ) from an automatic to a manual transmission should be relatively simple in comparison to conversions for other models where manufactures drastically change the design of their vehicles based on the type of transmissions installed. Not to mention most car models change and redesign the exterior, interior, and engine multiple times over the course of the model's lives. Not the Cherokee, the infamous simplicity and reliability of the Cherokee is ultimately due to the bullet proof AMC 258cid in-line-six cylinder engine which inspired its relatively unchanged and universal design characteristics that are reflected throughout it's seventeen years of production in the U.S; and twenty-one years in China. Based on this engineering concept, it is plausible to purchase, or scrap the parts needed from one of the thousands of dying Cherokees out there, and directly swap them out. The general list of parts would include the clutch pedal assembly, shifter, appropriate electronic connectors, transfer-case(for four wheel drive applications), drive shaft(s), transmission, cross-member, and of course your drug of choice(alcohol, nicotine, caffeine, and/or THC) to assist with research and installation. I must also add that some conversions may require you to swap or add computer components. The main cost of the conversion would be the transmission, transfer case, computer parts, and most importantly your time; not to forget researching and picking up parts. Even though this project would be relatively simple and fun for the mechanically inclined, based on the abundance of Cherokees on the market, it's extreme reliability, and again it's universal design, I would be be cautious of reality checking witches(wives, girlfriends, and mothers) who may argue that it's more reasonable to purchase a used Cherokee equipped with a manual transmission installed from the factory.
i believe your relay might be acting up. i would replace it r u sure u aren't stuck on delay!!?? been there, done that!! This happened on our 94 Sunbird LE...it is indeed the relay.
Pictures of the steps, especially the "keeper", would be handier than random pictures of Jeeps.
You have to drop the transmission, remove the throwout bearing/slave cyl, replace it, re-install the trans, bleed the system.
The Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest are basically the same vehicle. The radiator is cooled by an electric fan and thermostat. If either of these are malfuntioning, that could be the cause. Otherwise, all of the normal things such as low coolant, bad water pump, clogged radiator, bad radiator hoses, bad thermostat,and incorrect timing could all cause the engine to overheat.
I would also like the diagram. I recently bought a 85 V-6 2.8 and it has two belts. Someone told me I may be missing one. One is the Alternator-ac-fan and the other is the Power steering-fan.
I'm assuming this is a 4.0 L6..... 4.0 6 cyl. is 1 5 3 6 2 4
The speed sensor itself is located on top of the transmission housing, and it is accessable (though a bit of a reach). Go twords the back of the engine compartment (it's best to look through from the passenger side) If you look straight down from the back end of the fuel injector assembly you'll see a black connector hooked to some wires, right on top of the transmission housing. It's held in place by a single bolt. That is the speed sensor.
To remove it, first unplug the couple (the thing with the wires in it). It snaps in so you'l have to give it a squeeze to get it loose. Then with a 10mm wrench (or close to that) loosen the bolt. Once the bolt is out, grasp the sensor and pull it straight up. It will be oily and will have a gear on the bottom. That gear is spun by another gear inside the transmission. That's how it works.
I would strongly recommend doing some continuity tests with a multimeter. The sensor costs over two hundred freaking dollars.
You may first check to see if there is antifreeze in the radiator ,may want to check how stong the antifreeze is,you can purchase a antifreeze tester at a walmart or kmart or wherever you like to shop,depending on how cold your climate is the antifreeze should be good to -32 to+250 degrees around there. Can also check to see if your thermistat is functioning properly. You can take it out and run car to see if this cured the problem,if it did youneed a new thermistat,if not also check to see if you coolant fan works when air conditioning is on it should be ok,but you never know without proper tests, can also check water pump to see if it leaks or if the bearings are shot if all else fails take it to a trained person to find the cause.
take your key and turn the lock on the drivers side door, turn till the security light goes off, hold for 3 to 4 seconds I get out of the car, stick the key in either door lock and unlock the door, then it should work. lock all your doors. go to the back lift gate and turn the key. sometimes the lock in the lift gate gets stuck and sets off the security system, exspecially after the battery died or was disconnected. I was just having the same problem after having it towed for 100.00 and two hours of taking apart the dash all it took was to lock the door open the hatch 1st with the key then unlock the drivers door. this worked for me i hope it works for you. I was just having the same problem after having it towed for 100.00 and two hours of taking apart the dash all it took was to lock the door open the hatch 1st with the key then leave it open for a few minutes ,then close it ,then unlock the drivers door. this worked for me i hope it works for you.