Jeep CJ

Same as any other vehicle, pull out the oil dipstick and look at the oil level.

A cart that has batteries connected in series with one plus and one minus cables may have three 12V batteries connected with two jumpers, instead of twice as many 6V batteries with five jumpers.

Try Auto Zone.com I have overstayed my welcome there.

6 quarts total capacity. The Crankscase oil capacity is 5 quarts. Add one additional quart when the oil filter is changed.

I had an 85 cj-7 doing the same thing. i changed the catalytic converter and problem solved. You may want to try it. The catalytic converter can become plugged or restricted.

Jacks or jackstands should be placed under the frame.

Depends on what year it is and whether it's straight drive. On my 'straight drive '81 you start with the regular shift lever (the one you shift when driving) in 1st gear and give the vehicle a little gas while trying to move the the transfer case shift lever (the other stick) out of 4 wheel drive and into 2 wheel drive. If you have the old lockout wheel hubs you will also have to turn them to the left til they click.They are only on the front wheels of course.

There are three... white, light green and light green with a black line on it.

Yes, you can check out a website called www.portland.craigslist.org/sss. They have a couple sets for sale on there right now. Type in your key words: cj5 hard door

Under the tune up section of my Haynes Manual, it says that, "F- and L-head four-cylinder engines (1953 - 1971) have a firing order of, "1-3-4-2". Does this answer your question?

I experienced a similar problem with my 84 CJ7 this year; however, my main problem was stalling, not just starting and dieing as is your problem. First thing I did was check all electrical connections to my distributor, coil, and alternator. They were all good. Second, I inspected my carb., fuel filter, and my fuel pump. Those were good. Third, I checked for any and all loose bolts/nuts on my manifold and carb. (tightened anything loose), and then checked for any bad vacuum hoses (also making sure they were in the right place... I think I replaced 3 or 4 vacuum hoses). Fourth, I took off my EGR valve, cleaned the crap out of it, put it back on and confirmed that it worked. While I never did get to check my ignition ballast resistor (another step supposedly), what I chose to do was to check my ignition module (under my coolant resevoir). Well, I found a bad wire on one of the two plugs. By the time I bought a new ignition module, my Jeep had already stopped stalling on me, and, I wasn't experiencing the "start and stop" any more. One last thing: the pick up coil in the distributor... I also checked that just to make sure. I had the right ohm reading, but, I don't know if that was even applicable to my two problems (stalling and "start and stop").

Maybe you can find it on the net for free some where... I couldn't. Try buying either a Haynes Manual or Chiltons, just for CJs around your year (probably no later than 86 I would guess). I own a Haynes and my wiring diagram is in there (I have an 84) and it shows that it is applicable to the 84 through 86 models.

1342

yes, as log as they have the single post striker.

2 sizes were standard 14.8 or 20 gallon.

Yes

I am sure it depends on how old your jeep is, but mine is on a metal tag rivited to the engine side of firewall on the left side. In front of the driver. Mine also had a decal on the dash by the drivers left knee

No. The door openings are not shaped the same, CJ-7 vs CJ-5.

You would wire them in "Parallel". That means positive post to positive post and negative to negative. Two 12 volt batteries wired this way doubles the capacity and amperage capability of the system. It does not cause any harm to the electrical system as the system sees them as one big battery.

it is located In the engine compartment right next to the brake master Cylinder. that is the data plate .

Clutch needs adjusting, or synchro going out

start in a T position and push with your right foot if right handed left foot if left handed. Then kick your led through to the H position. the H position is when your leg looks like a lower case h. then jump in the H position. then twist your body so your left foot over laps your right foot (the D position) hold that position for 1 1/2 rotations. after that you use BIG TOES where your toes touch and bring your foot out to land .

Yes, if you wire them as two pairs in series to each other. Two batteries in series will give you 24 volts, and another two in series will give you also 24 volts. put the two 24v groups in parallel and you have 24 volts.

under the skid plate take it off and all will bee seen?