Jeep CJ

Freeze plug at the rear of the motor. Between the transmission and the motor.

Its the same as the old Ford trucks.

Drill holes into the Roll Bar to attach the 3rd point. The rest should bolt in the stock bolts.

feet

You can find wiring schematics at autozone.com.

I dont know what year you have, but I just installed a racing fuel cell in my 76 "C"J-5 and the wire that I hooked the positive to was pink. I of course ran a separate ground for the remaining lead. You can sometimes check the back of the speedo at the fuel guage and check the color there.

A battery has a voltage and can supply a certain current for a period of time. You could have a 12 V battery that can deliver 100 A of cranking current or one good for supplying 100 A for an hour.

[You may also want to check your "key switch" (ignition?) for a short, and, check your "starter relay"... this was advice given to me by someone in my family who has been getting dirty with cars/trucks since 1972.]

Have you checked the following?

Battery?

Starter solenoid?

Starter motor?

Alternator?

Distributor?

Ignition Coil?

Ignition Module?

Any and all wires/cables for this "system"?

If you have a Jeep Manual, you can find some tips in there, and troubleshooting stuff, and (hopefully) a wiring diagram.

My 84 was stripped of its ECM long ago, so everything ignition wise goes through my ignition module and that's why I didn't mention it above. If you got one, should you check that too? I guess it couldn't hurt.

As for your fuse... as you may well know, each fuse is rated at a certain amperage, yes? It sounds as if once you turn on the ignition- BOOM!- you get to much juice or amps going through the circuit, and, your fuse is doing its job... protecting the rest of the circuit.

Two more things: in my book it mentions something about checking the "ignition ballast resistor"... what that is and where that is, I haven't a clue; and, is your ignition switch actually working properly?

Again: having a Jeep Manual is great for things like this. And, if you haven't done so, try to join some online Jeep clubs (I'm in at least 5), and, look at other forums as well and post your same question there.

Good luck.

Jeep is a make in its own right. It is produced by the Chrysler corporation .

No it will not... but if you are handy and have torches and a welder the body mounts can be modified to fit the yj tub..... caution with the nose/ grille assembly, a cj nose will not fit a yj frame without extensive modifications, therefore i think it is safe to say that a yj nose may have trouble fitting a cj frame!

CJ7's did not come with a 360 V8's they did come with a 304 and the thermostat was a 192 but a 180 will work just fine.

Nope

5 WITH A NEW OIL FILTER.

There is no way of saying exactly what the price is. There are too many factors to consider. Rust, mileage, status of title, etc. You can get an old rusty one for $500 or one that has been well kept or rebuilt for upwards of $16,000. Hope this helps!

Use the next higher scale than the voltage you are trying to read. It should be either 20 or 30 volt DC

If it has been lifted, you may need a "drop down" pitman arm.

The answer will depend on the fuel efficiency of you chosen mode of transport.

To allow some movement, an engine directly hard mounted to a frame will break the steel from the torque, the rubber bushings allow a little movement and prevent vibration.

Jack up the vehicle(use jack stands) block wheels for safety. unbolt the universal joints and slide off the drive shaft. you should then be able to un-bolt the transfer case from the rear of the transmission. support with a floor jack while unbolting to keep the pressure off the bolts and keep it from hitting the garage floor if it decides to slip.

The basic body is the same. However, there are many minor cosmetic differences and a few very significant design and mechanical differences. Mechanical / Design: Beginning in 1982, Jeep re-engineered the axles to address the negative publicity associated with Jeep rollover accidents. They widened the wheel track of the CJ-7 by a few inches on each side. As a result, if you look at a pre-1982 and post 1982 CJ-7 side by side from the front, you'll notice that on the 1982 and later models the tires extend right to the edge of the rubber fender flares. In 1977, some CJ-7's were sold without the rubber flares. After 1982, however, CJ-7's were available only with the flares because of this difference. In 1977, the CJ-7 was offered with your choice of a four cylinder, six cylinder, or 8 cylinder engine. After 1982, it was available only in four or six cylinders. Cosmetic: The 1977 CJ-7 had low back bucket seats while the 1985 CJ-7 had high back bucket seats. The exterior door handles on the hard top model in 1977 featured a silver handle that was twisted to open the door, similar to the soft top handle. The 1985 hard top model featured a "flipper" that was used on hard top Jeep Wranglers up until 2007. Beginning in 1984, CJ-7's equipped with hard tops and steel doors included a small wing window that opened. (What a stupid addition that was.) Generally speaking, the CJ-7's of 1982 and later are more stable on the road because of the wider track, and the seats are more comfortable. Otherwise, it's essentially the same vehicle.

5 on 5 1/2 (chevy).

5x5.5"

Typically the tank from AMC was 15 gallons.