Mazda Miata

battery is in the trunk, put the red to red and black to black and have the other car running to charge your battery and give it a couple mins then start your miata

The spark plug gap on a 1994 Mazda 1.8L MFI DOHC is .044 (thousandths of an inch)

The controls and rails have worn and the vibration of the vehicle is allowing the weight of the window to move everything down. You may need to remove the door panel to replace some of the internal parts and the window rails.

There are too many to list. As a rule of thumb, belts are used more often on OHC engines, and rarely on OHV engines. But chains are used on OHC engines, even engines that once used belts. The Honda 2.2 4 cylinder is an example. It used a belt up to 2002. After that is uses a chain. But Every manufacture uses chains and belts. Do you have a particular engine in mind? the 2009 Satun Aura XE

Between the tank and the engine ....

The fuel filter is located underneath the car on the passenger (right) side. It is located just forward of the fuel tank and is covered by a protective plate.

Yes there is a hydraulic clutch on the miata. Just to the outside of the firewall, near the brake master cylinder is the clutch master cylinder and resevoir.

No, they have standard dual overhead cam, piston engines, at least from 90-05.

Sounds like ignition switch could be bad, the lock cylinder or the switch itself. Good Luck!!!

It's located under the steering wheel column, it's a black relay above the brake pedal, pretty high up it's f-45

Set the headlights so that they both should be down. Open the hood, and find the fuses. Pull out the one that is for the headlights(Refer to Owner's Manual if you don't know which one it is). Now behind the headlight that is still up there is a post with a rubber cover. Pull off this cover, and there should be a red knob. This is how to hand crank the headlights. Turn this knob until the headlight is in the down position. Then replace the rubber cover, and the fuse. This is also a good way to free headlights that have frozen in place, if you live in a colder region. (I actually own a 1990, but since the Miata remained virtually unchanged from 1990 to 1997, this should still work.)

The fuel filter for all 1990-2005 Mazda Miatas (including Mazdaspeed Miatas), is underneath the car, just before the rear tire on the left side. It will be hidden under a thin, plastic splash shield.

The IAT ( Intake Air Temperature ) sensor is located on the back of the air cleaner housing.

There are a few reasons why this car would lose power and stall while the AC is on. This could be due to worn out belts along with a fuel pump or fuel filter needed to be replaced.

You need to look behind the inboard caliper, there's an allen head screw, covered by a small rubber grommet. Just remove the grommet and use an allen head key to back it out. The caliper will then be able to retract. Once the pads are reset, tighten the allen screw back in and replace the grommet.

142 hp at the crank, Miatas typically have a 25-30hp drivetrain loss by the time it is measured at the wheels. Average rwhp is usually between 105-115.

Depending what engine you have they recomend between 60K and 80K.

The fuse in the air bag computer module is fried and not replaceable. Usually that means their was a problem unresolved prior to this fuse melting.

fuel pump could have gone bad , does it have fuel in the tank ?

they are awesome i knew a guy who had his till 315,000 miles when some one total it while it was parked and all he did i was regular maintnance

i race my it is a 1990 i have 200,000 miles and it runs great.

the best is i can go racing and still get almost 30mpg

The one you most likely can't find is right on the back of the fuse receptacle. It's a fusible link and requires you to replace the receptacle.

The same as any other car, except the battery is in the trunk. On the earlier cars it is tight up under the right fender in the trunk. You may need to remove it for access to one of the terminals. I'd recommend using a trickle charger. It is a small battery, and I think it uses a gel electrolyte. So I'm not sure how one of those 20 amp rapid chargers would affect it.

97% of the time it's the clutch slave cylinder (under the car, bolted to the side of the trans.) 2.99% of the time it's the rubber portion of the clutch hydraulic line (best seen from under the hood, just behind the back, passenger side of the motor). It may be easiest to find this line by following the metal line from the master cylinder (where you keep adding fluid) until you see the rubber portion of the line. The hydraulic line leak will actually shoot fluid out when the pedal is depressed. .01% of the time it's the clutch master cylinder. These almost NEVER LEAK but if it does you'll see fluid under the dash (and probably all over your carpet :) Many repair shops like to sell the master and slave together, don't get talked into this, it's a waste of money (99.99% of the time).

Open the hood, look at the front portion about where the bumper is, a horn bell is mounted there, get a new one and wire it up

You need to remove the light assembly - it's really rather easy to do, nothing to worry about.

With the trunk lid open, you'll be able to see a Phillips head screw at the corner of the light assembly, remove it. Next remove the rear trunk liner by pulling out the plastic rivets holding it in. Grab the center of the push rivet with your fingernails and pull it out until it stops. Now roll it around and pull it out and the complete plastic rivet and center should pop out. I believe there are seven of them. Slowly use your fingers to pry the rear trunk liner from behind the sides of the other liners and pull it out.

With the trunk liner out you should be able to see a couple of small nuts holding the light assembly to the back of the trunk. Use a 10mm wrench to remove both of them. After that, unplug the multi-wiring connector to separate the light assembly wiring from the wiring harness. You will have to push down on the release lever in the center of the connector to allow it to pull free. Once free push on the rubber grommet where the wires pass through the back of the trunk. This will release the grommet from the hole it is in. It shouldn't take much pressure.

Then the light assembly should be ready to come out. However, you may feel resistance as you try to pull the assembly out . This is due to a hidden push-in snap in the lower outside corner of the light assembly. Pulling out will release it, as it is only held in by friction of the snap.

Twist to unlock the offending bulb holder from the light assembly and replace the bulb with a new one. Just reverse of what you just did to reassemble.

It is hidden behind a plastic shield underneath the car, just before the rear, passenger side tire.