6.5 inches

its a headlight adjustment kit! Not sure how it works, but that's what they are!

Jason

P.S has anyone managed to use the space for a woofer?

jguerra5@rgv.rr.com

I am not an engineer, but was frustrated by no answer to this question, and am readily open to being corrected. A little research has led to the following answer. Caveat Emptor.

ECU = Engine Control Unit, an electronic component of modern engine management, tweaking performance according to a series of variables which can boost power, for instance, among other things. Basically a small computer with precise instructions on how an engine should run, and which can receive different sets of instructions, as if you went from Windows XP to Windows Vista, or from Mac Tiger to Mac Leopard, for instance, to use an office computer analogy, and then all kinds of changes appear on the screen and behind it.

So an upgrade to an ECU will affect the vital statistics of an engine in different ways, depending on the intention of the "upgrade". I surmise it is often used to boost engine power beyond what the manufacturer intended, at the price of higher gas consumption, faster engine wear, and generally higher risk to the driver from potential loss of control (those infamous "single vehicle accidents") due to the rest of the car not being designed for the real world consequences of that extra power, i.e., higher speed vs. imprecise steering, suspension too soft, brakes not adequate, tires not 'sticky' enough, etc.) Very attractive however when you think that by simply downloading some software into your car's computer it becomes more powerful. Amazing when you come to think of it.

Well, it IS possible. But it requires a lot of work other than merely slapping the turbo in there. Usually people are better off selling the car they have and then buying a new car that's already equipped the way they want it.

You would be better off just replacing the engine with the turbo version from a Z31 or even the DOHC twin turbo version from the Z32. The reason for this is the large differences between the turbo and non-turbo that go way beyond just a turbo. The compression ratio is higher in the non-turbo to make up for the lack of boost. Adding a turbo to that compression ratio will cause detonation.

Bottom line, just the cost of a turbo system, ecu, and changing the compression ratio (just the basic changes you need) will still cost far more than just replacing the engine.

25 years

a v8 :D

Hi there All vehicles have a regulator, in the past it was more common to have a separate unit but most vehicles these days have a built in regulator in the alternatorOn Nissan vehicles some models have an external regulator and some an internal. Hitachi and Mitsubi alternators are used. To identify which one you have, (if the id stickers are missing or illegible) is to see how many wires come out of the unit. The alternator with a separate or external regulator has about 3 or 4 wires leading to it. One thick one for the main charge and then two or more thinner ones for the field wire and earth The units with the builit in regulator have only two wires. One for the charge light and one for the supply.I hope this is of help to youregardsRogueYou can visit this site which has an on line manual

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=133

2 ways if you can see the screws to the top remove them and grab the top of the injector carefully with some padded pliers rotate side to side and CAREFULLY Pull out. replace the o-rings and install. or remove plenum or grind areas around plenum that are blocking but keep in mind the thickness of the aluminum good luck

its coil packs

You might have a problem with the orientation but it will work.


Here's a list of engines seen in a z31, http://www.az-zbum.com/modification.engine.swap.shtml

Open the hood and stand on the driver's side of the car, you should see the transmission. In the top right corner there are two 14MM bolts, your starter is back there, after bolts are removed, reach back there and disconnect the wires from the starter then pull it out. Shouldn't be too hard. Not sure on the automatics though.

That flashing light probably drained your battery, try giving it a jump and trying again. I had this same problem. Fixed it for me.

The front bumper or "nose can be removed by first: removing screws that are bolted to the fenders. If you look under the wheel towards the front of the car, you will see screws that hold the fender to the front nose. Remove those.

Second: If you look at the top of the front nose with the hood opened, you will see two bolts on each side of the top. These bolts secure it from the top side.

So, remove the screws from the fenders and then remove the screws from the top side of the nose with the hood opened. You will see them when you open the hood. As for the screws or bolts on the bottom side securing it, I dint know if there is or not. I removed a right fender yesterday.

This job is for a back yard mechanic. Its pretty easy.

Good luck!!

Yes, it's possible.

im not sure what u mean...but i guess u mean is it better to run intercooler with your turbo setup on a particular engine...yes the intercooler will aid in cooling drastically over a non intercooled engine...think of it as a/c or non a/c in your house u want the cold cold air if possible

Your engine will run poorly, rough, lack power, etc. as if it isn't running on all cylinders (because it isn't). It may or may not start poorly, or at all. It will likely be burning more fuel than normal. One or more spark plugs may be blackened with dry, sooty deposits (indicating poor ignition). If spark tested, one or more spark plug leads may show weak or non-existent spark.

Engine diagnostic tools will often be able to point to a coil pack as being problematic, but often can't tell conclusively. They will often simply say that some cylinder or another is misfiring.

Note: Before assuming a bad coil pack, check your spark plugs and wires and replace them if they are either bad, quite old, or if their trustworthyness is questionable. Plugs and wires should be replaced in complete sets whenever possible.

stop using airplane fuel

The 87 turbo z was 6.7 stock, but when they get older they could lose boost do to age. It could also be your stock boost gage not reading the correct boost. You should buy a after market boost gage and a boost controler, with a high performance exhaust, intake from K&N and a boost controler you should get huge horsepower gains. Just make sure you dont go over 11 psi without an intercooler and run high octane gas.

If you want to go over 8 psi, you will have to remove the stock pop off valve.

yes, amongst other things