Oldsmobile Intrigue

The 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue wiper blade sizes are 22" wiper blades on both sides front. Do not buy by length-only however. See Sources and Related Links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

This is something that's very easy to do. Open up your trunk. There should be a black knob right behind the tail light (if you have the cargo net the knob is the upper mount). Unscrew this and then pull the carpeting near the knob away from the metal directly behind the taillights. This will reveal two more knobs which you should then unscrew. Now the taillight should be easily pulled out. If you're looking to change a bulb simply look on the back side of the lens and locate the socket of the bulb that is out. To remove the the socket so you can reach the bulb twist the socket in one direction (I can't remember which way) and it should just pull out. To remove the bulb just pull the glass part away from the socket and it should come out. If it's possible use gloves or a towel to hold the new bulb when you install it because if you touch the new bulb with your bare hands it will leave behind the oils that our bodies naturally produce. Those oils can cause the bulb to fail prematurely. Then just follow the same steps in reverse and you're done.

Make sure the water is from the radiator. When an AC is functioning properly, water condenses on the coil and is SUPPOSED to drip down a drain tube below the car. If the tube is blocked the condensate water could be backing up and causing the problems you describe. Check the drain tube when the AC is running. Make sure water is dripping out of the drain tube. If the tube is blocked, run something through to see if you can break the obstruction loose.

If your wipers work just fine on "intermittent" (they sweep across the windshield and return to the bottom of the windshield then wait about 5 seconds until the next sweep and repeat) but when you turn them to the "Off position then they stop in the up position rather then park then the parking pawl probably has a broken spring and is not working correctly. The pawl is a 1.25" long piece of metal external to the motor and is part of the Stack-O-Plates on the output shaft of the motor and to which the wiper push rods are attached. When you turn the wipers to "Off" the motor will reverse direction and the pawl will catch on a stationary tab that is part of the motor/wiper frame. This will hold the wipers in the down position while the motor continues to run and allow the parking Stack-O-Plates-Spring-Wrapped gizmo to do its magic which drags the wiper arms down into the extra low "parked" position. If the tiny spring that holds the pawl in the out position breaks then the pawl will not engage the stationary tab. The wipers will then continue swinging upward through half a swing at which point a cam/switch that is internal to the pulse board (the cover on the motor output gear (three T20 Torx screws to remove) will tell the motor to stop because it thinks the parking Stack-O-Plates gizmo has finished doing its job but instead the wiper arms will be stuck in the "Hello, I'm a dork" raised flag position.

WARNING: Use caution while working around the wiper mechanism. If the key is on and the wiper lever is set to "Intermediate" then the motor can start unexpectedly. If your fingers are down there in the wrong place, the mechanism has more than enough power to break bones and/or peal the skin right off of them. Don't be afraid, just be deliberate and methodical and always be aware if the motor/electronics are energized.

It is very easy to remove the motor/wiper assembly so do not hesitate to do so:

Remove the plastic covers off the wiper arm retaining nuts.

Remove the wiper arm nuts with a 13mm socket.

Twist and pull with your finger tips and finger nails at the base of the small rubber squirt tubing off the hard plastic squirt delivery tubes.

You may have to yard up and down on the wiper arms pretty hard to get them loose from their tapered shafts. Don't be a mindless gorilla but be brave and keep at it. They will come loose.

Remove the cowl cover by pulling or prying out the center of the six retaining push pins. Then lift the cowl cover up then out at a 45 degree angle. You will find the cover is a very tight fit between the right hand wiper shaft and the weatherstrip at the base of the windshield. Be brave and keep pulling and prying until it comes loose.

Reinstalling the cowl cover and getting the rubber weather strip over the cover is the hardest part of the whole job. Use putty knifes (slowly and carefully!) or a very small slender screwdriver. It took me half an hour just to do this part of the job that. ugh.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the wiper assembly.

Disconnect the electrical connector by squeezing the retaining tab that you cant see on the backside of the connector. You have to squeeze real hard.

Lift the wiper assembly out.

Remove the Stack-O-Plates assembly from the motor output shaft (T30 Torx) to access the pawl to put on a spring. I wrapped one and a half loops of spring around one protrusion on the end of the pawl and around one tab of the stationary clip that limits the swing of the pawl to hold it in the "swung out" position. The loop of spring applies very light pressure but that is all it needs. This will all make sense when you are looking at the pawl mechanism. I cut off one and a half loops from a spring like what you would find in a retractable ball point pen but bigger. Use what spring you can find even if it from a ball point pen. When the motor runs in the forward direction the pawl harmlessly swings out of the way as it passes by the stationary tab. Bend the stationary tab in or out as necessary so the pawl engages straight on to it. I will try and post pictures of all this.

Before remounting the whole Stack-O-Plates gizmo assembly you will need to set the motor into the correctly timed position. Plug the motor in, then turn the wipers to "Intermediate". When the motor stops then turn off the ignition switch or quickly disconnect the motor. The motor is now in the correct position. Remount the Stack-O-Plates so there is about 1/4" to 1" space between the pawl and the stationary tab. Tighten down the T30 Torx bolt (blue lock tight recommended) then test the unit to see if the pawl engages to the stationary tab and lets the parking Stack-O-Plates do all its parking gyrations before you remount the whole wiper assembly. When you are all done try not to wear out the wipers by constantly turning them on and off for the next few hours of driving just so you can marvel at your handy work. :O)

Buy the way, if you turn the wipers off and they just wiggle a little bit while the motor goes click-click-click-click trying to do its parking thing then you need to alter (slightly) the relationship between the cam/switch arm inside the pulse module (again, the cover on the motor output gear, three T20 Torx screws to remove). There are two switch/contact arms in the center of the pulse board. The one closest to the board that engages the plastic cam mounted to the board is the one you want to change slightly. The other free floating arm is driven by the cam on the big motor output gear and is the contact to let the electronics know the output gear has rotated half a turn and the wipers are now parked. I bent the one arm closest to the pulse board away from its cam just slightly so that only about 3/4 of the "hook" on the end of the arm (you will know what I mean when you look at it) is hitting the ramp on the cam (the cam spins clockwise). Verify that the electrical contact actually opens a bit when the arm is riding on the high part of the cam. You may have to adjust and verify a number of times to find that sweet spot where it runs reliably. It took me half an hour of fiddling. O_0

It takes me about 10 minutes, but I've done quite a few of them. My first one took me about an hour. The one on the 3.5 engine in later Intrigues is a little more involved due to space limitations. The one on the 3.8 is fairly straightforward.

accelerator ping is caused by to low aoctane fuel you are using this can be easliy corrected by buying higher octane,or by having a "good: mechanic ,tune your engine to the octane rating you are using

The raditor needs to be replaced. they get coated with a thin layer of contaminates that prevent heat exchange at a high enough rate. they may have some of the cores stop;ed up also. It worked for mine at about 180k miles. Expect the thermostate to go out unless a premium one was bought. not buy autozone they are worthless. Change the cap too.

GM will say it is normal. Some will say it is "in the build tolerance" I'm not sure about all that, but I had a 94 silverado with a 5.7 and it burned a quart every 1200 miles or so, and several dealers said it was ok. I now have a 95 G20 van with the same 5.7, and it uses about a quart every 3000 miles. Who knows, but you should be changing your oil every 3,000 miles anyway, that is if you want the car to last a long time. P.S. don't forget the tranny fluid either. I do mine at 50,000 to 60,000 mile intervals, which is not as often as GM suggests, but any maintenance is money well spent! Yes, Mine eats about a quart every 3000 miles, even faster in summer. Apparently GM designed for this as the oil pan holds 6 quarts. I still say that a gas engine this loose isn't ideal, but so far my 99 3.5 runs fine and doesn't foul plugs or smoke. I wish mine went that far. At 133K, it uses a quart every 800 miles, and has for years. It is not getting any worse and passes smog, so I will live with it for 2 more years.

In the "Power Center" under the hood on the passenger side strut tower.

timing chain. It actually has 3 separate timing chains.

The solenoid, as well as the related valve, are inside the transaxle valve body, which is inside the transaxle fluid pan. I'm not sure if it's the lower pan or the side pan.

Fuel pump will not run.

The factory sunroof does not have a manual close devise.

The blower motor resistor pack is located between the fireewall and the blower motor on the passenger side. The best way to access this part its to remove the plastic shield under the glove box and then remove the blower motor. Behind the blower motor you will see another wire harness that will be 5-6 wires. This is the connector for the resistor pack. The are 2 screws that hold the resistor pack to the blower motor housing.

I found there to be 3 screws on mine. There is a piece of carpet under glove box that can be removed with taking out 3 plastic snap buttons. I didnt remove the blower. I took out the 2 screws on the sides of the resistor that you can see. You cant see the forward screw. Once the 2 side screws are removed, pry down carefully on the resistor and pull it out with some long needle nose pliers. The back screw hole is slotted, so you can do this. it doesnt come out real easy but it does work. Now that you can see the forward screw with the resistor removed you need to back it out about a turn. All the screws are 7/32's. Now carefully slide the new one in carefully into the forward screw slot. Install the other 2 screws. Also you should have removed the wire plug first thing and the plug from the resistor to the blower fan. Now reconnect them last. This whole job is very difficult because you are lying on the front floor in front of seat trying to get 2 arms in there. I am small. Sorry for you big guys.

I just had this happen to me and I just had it replace. I can speak from the experience of replacing the front wheel hub assembly.

The first indicator is NOISE. What type of noise? On acceleration - looking at the RPMs, the car gets louder in a humming manner - significant to the ear - not as loud as if you needed a new muffler---but loud enough (and usually under the driver side or what appears to feel like it is underneath the gas foot pedal). Additionally, if the noise tends to dissipate on turning left - (taking pressure off the hub assembly), there is a good chance.

Additionally, on the DECELERATION - loud and can feel the sound moaning very loudly as you put on your brakes.

Other things that you might notice - looser steering wheel, pulling toward one side or another (like alignment issues) - because the wheel hub assembly/bearings affect alignment.

Get this fixed. It is imperative. It can really mess up alignment or worse yet--the tire could detach from the mount/assembly. It needs to be "replaced". There are no repairs or rebuilds-the wheel hub or bearing needs replacement. Parts alone - approx $260 NOT INCLUDING labor. Most likely over a $500 job.

Just did this replacement and, while I can address some issues, I am not satisfied that the job was successful. Here goes: First, after securely jacking car and removing wheel, remove calipers and hang by a wire or twine so weigtht of calipers is not supported by brake line hose. With calipers out of the way, tap behind rotor around periphery to remove rotor. This is a tight (and maybe rusted) fit and takes time and patience. The reason this is a tight fit is because inside the hub of the rotor is the emergency brake which is a cable actuated old fashioned shoe brake. The inside of the rotor acts as the drum. Once the old rotor is off this is all visible. When mounting new rotor, I had a bear of a time getting rotor to fit over emerg brake shoes. Seemed no amount of tapping eventually, hammering, evenly around periphery would move rotor into place. Emerg brake shoes interfered. Measured ID of rotor hub where emerg shoes must fit and compared to old rotor- exactly same diameter. So I have the correct rotor. Eventually a friend came to my aid and made adjustments to the knerled emergency brake adjusting knob (at bottom of shoe ring) until rotor finally fit into place. He finished job and next day I drove the car and found that the emergency brake shoe must be in continuous contact with the rotor hub (drum) because the disc is VERY hot and even smells hot (much hotter on one side than the other). This seemed like it was going to be as easy as replacing the front rotors and pads (which I did last year) but, with the enmergency brake coming into play the rear replacement is more "complicated" than the front. Now I have to remove the new rotor and fool around with the emerg brake adjusting knob (it's not really a knob but more a little knerled wheel that, when turned, appears to grow or shrink the diameter of the shoe ring. I'm not looking forward to this because it promises to be a hit and miss proposition. I'm still cruising the internet for a good set of instructions. In the mean time, hope my experience helps someone. JH

when you open the hood it should be right there behind the headlite a black box with a large hose going to the plenum the box should have 4 clips on it .unclip it and the filtre is about maybe 6in by9in & an inch thick.

Below the middle mark. if you have not removed the battery and the needles poped past the stops. this willmove the temp gauge and place it at a higher reading. replace dash to correct this.

In front of the Plenum cover connected to the throttle body

Are your tires in good shape? Brake fluid at proper level? Have you had a spell of "road-slick" weather? ABS comes on when the wheel speed sensors register a mismatch, meaning one wheel has lost traction and ABS should engage. Check the simple stuff like your tires and brake fluid first. If the sensor or ABS control unit is out you should get a warning light on your dash. ABS is not something a shadetree mechanic should work on.

the park tab is bent. it is a thick piece of metal that must be bent back slightly toward the wiper motor with a hammer or plyers.

I assume this issue started when there was snow/ice on the windshield?

Depends on the ambient temperature - need a chart for details

check the starter, disconnect the negative side of the battery before removing the starter. once removed take it to autozone, advanced auto or orielly's and have them test it.

The rubber seal on the door has a crack, or an area where it it not effectively sealing, and when water from rain rolls down from the top of the car it is following the track of the seal, down into the inside of the car. The ONLY resolve for this I have found is to replace that rubber seal.

If you're talking about a Ford-style fuel cutoff switch... there isn't one.