Pontiac Fiero

This could be the famous Italian sports car Ferrari or the less-known GM car from 1984-1988, the Pontiac Fiero.

Right in front of the oil pan (2.8l) Disconnect the battery before getting a wrench close to the starter. The starter has a HOT battery cable runnign directly to it. Shorting this to the frame with a wrench might start a fire, blow up your battery, or both.

Most (not all) Fiero engines require the engine be removed from the car and the seal removed after that.

The engines use a one piece seal in most engines.

It is also possible to remove the transmission to do this, but either way you need to separate the engine and trans, pry out the old seal, and install new.

Engine layout is:

1-3-5 (distributor)

2-4-6 (side)

firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

See attached link.

It's probably caused by "blow-by". Blow-by is caused when the pressurized exhaust leaks past the pistons, into the crankcase. The moving gasses pick up oil vapor. The exhaust gas dumps into the air cleaner and if the engine has blow-by the exhaust gas the oil will deposit in the air cleaner. So to make it short, blow-by means the engine is worn, it's not a good thing. But not necessarily. The FXR, like many other H-D designs, utilizes a dry-sump oiling system. In other words, oil is not stored in the bottom of the engine, as is the case with most cars and SUVs. After it flows through the engine and does it's work there, it drains into the bottom of the engine, and is pumped from there to a tank, and back to the engine. When the engine is off, the oil is held in the tank and prevented from draining back into the engine by a little check ball. If that ball gets dirty (often caused by infrequent operation of the vehicle and neglected oil changes), it does not seal properly. Oil can then drain past it into the bottom of the engine. It does no immediate harm there, but the next time the engine is started and the pistons start moving, there is a change in pressure within the engine that forces this oil to kind of "burp" out of the vent line which leads to... you guessed it, the air cleaner. Change the oil, clean and flush the tank and lines, filter screens, and said check valve, and you'll be fine.

Is on the front fire wall right behind the driver. Available from any parts store.

on the underside of the hood on the right side there should be a sticker - if it is gone you will have to find another car with one, or buy a Haynes manual

There is a high pressure fuel line under the throttle body that carries fuel to the cold start injector.

There is a black pipe that feeds idle air to the same spot to insure the cold start injector gets a good mixture.

Yes - You have a vacuum leak

The weight is either 5W30 or 10W30

The trick is to find an additive for "Flat Tappet or Flat Lifter" Engines

Current oil will not protect your engine properly without this!

The adjustments are pretty obvious on the the top of the transmission under the air intake and exhaust plumbing.

This is both a pain and really easy.

If you get agressive you will damage the mount beyond all recognition.

There is an easily removed trim panel with screws under the engine vent grill or panel and one or two further up. This will expose one or two of the pins that hild it in place poking through.

Usually two screws on the forward edge.

The use trim removal oliers to pop it loose. Repair or replace all the spring clips and re-install.

The safety switch is located on the transmission in the back of the caron the drivers side. The shifter cable goes to it along with some wires.

The "small block" Chev engine is a popular engine swap for this car.

As to the twin turbo that is going to be a large amount of work but completely doable.

There is not one

Three basic reasons

The fan does not work

The cooling system has an air lock (very common)

Cracked head, this engine is notorious for doing this

First you'll have to get the car jacked up and on jack stands. Disconnect the battery, remove the heat shied between the engine and fuel lines, disconnect the electrical connectors for the fuel pump (located on the firewall above the heater hoses). Loosen all hose clamp on the fuel lines and the two filler neck hoses (do not remove clamps). Place jack with a 2X4 about 2 foot long laying on the jack underneath the tank and jack it up. Don't put much pressure on the tank, just enough to hold it in place. Remove the two strape nuts and the 4 bracket bolts. Now lower the tank slowly, you'll have to balance it while prying on the sides where the A/C brackets are to get it to come down. Once you get it started down remove the hoses from the lines. When the jacks all the way down, slide the tank off the jack and drag it out from under the car. Blow the dirt off the tank and then take a screw driver and hammer and tap the locking ring off the sending unit going in the tank. Carefully remove the unit, pay particular attention to the position of everything on the unit because it has to go back exacually the same. Follow the instructions with the new pump and then reinstall in reverse order. Before starting the car when your done, turn the switch on a few times to prime the pump before trying to start it.

People think changing the fittings is all you need to do. In my research the system needs to have the compressor flushed and refilled with oil compatible with 134 and the air dryer may be changed out as a precaution. The refridgerant is not compatible with the oil in the old r12 system and will cause the compressor to fail . I have seen a lot of this on the web and believe this to be a true answer.......You can easily get r12 on e-bay and it is a lot cheaper than a refit.............Most auto parts houses stock it for 35 bucks a can and the service tech can mark it up to 50-70 dollars. Trick is a license is needed to handle it but usually, on the web, an agreement to provide it to a licensed tech will satisfy seller.

The Fiero Store: http://www.fierostore.com/Product/Browse.aspx?d=281&p=1

There is no Carburetor, this is a fuel injected engine

Unless it's been very seriously modified, it's a mid-engine, transversely mounted transaxle, and rear wheel drive with open differential.

You need to clairify your question. The transmission stays in high gear, or are you saying the locking torque converter stays locked up?

This will be a bit harder to solve. If it sputters when it is turning, then you should look at a fuel related issue. If the engine feels more like it is turning off, then on, then you need to look at an electrical related issue.

On each headlamp motor there is a knob that if turned will raise and lower each respective light. This will work but then the problem could lie in one ( or more) of the three headlamp relays or in the motors themselves. Both the relays and the motors can usually be found for sale online.

They actually exist in the GM 2-speed Powerglide transmission. Anybody who has built one could tell you this. People are just naive and think it's a big hoax, like blinker fluid, but they actually exist.