Colored surfaces are basically an aesthetic choice by the owner of the pool. It is a myth that the darker the surface the warmer the pool. To illustrate, put a black plate and a white plate in the bottom of the pool. Remove them a few hours later and see if there is any temperature difference between them. There won't be. I've tried this. Water absorbs all the heat from the sun in the top 12 inches and never has a chance to reach the bottom. I have also monitored the temp. in white and black bottom pools that were next door to each other and had virtually identical conditions....no difference. Actually I have done this 3 times in the last 34 years to prove this point. Won a $500 bet on one them:-) Evaporative cooling is the single most important factor in pool temps. Every 7 mph of wind velocity doubles the evaporation rate.
You can go for copper ionization technology. It is one the best and healthiest alternative for saltwater swimming pool.
If you are looking to know more about Copper ionization visit Intec America website.
Magnesium sulfate monohydrate is used as a blast media to clean tile
To clean murky and green pool water, follow these steps:
1. First and foremost make sure you have good flow. Clean your filter and all your baskets.
2. Next, balance your water. If your alkalinity is low, you are running the risk of staining your pool.
3. Then, use a algaecide and shock your pool. When you purchase the algaecide ask someone that works there( or read the directions carefully). The ones that have been found to work best require you to shock with the treatment.
4. After that, run your filter 24 hours and test it again. The algaecide will bring your chlorine level down so you must make sure it does not get too low. At this point your water may be cloudy or you may have a lot of dead algae on the floor.
5. Vacuum up that algae and clean that filter out. If the water is cloudy use the directions below they are great! Just keep cleaning that filter out until that water is clear.
Another effective way to solve this problem, using the cartridge filter, is this:
1. To kill the algae, use lots of chlorine, algaecide etc.
2. Coagulate the dead algae into large clumps. Pool supply stores sell a spray coagulator that attaches to a garden hose. Spray it over the pool and let it sit overnight.
3.Add diatomaceous earth to the filter. This white powder is sold in pool stores and used to be necessary before cartridges became affordable. Add a lot. This coats the filter and makes it impermeable, even to algae-sized particles.
4. Run the vacuum and filter till pressure exceeds 35, then clean. Cleaning the filter causes a flood of the white earth to run off, so pick a good site. I bring mine to the car wash and clean it with the rinse pressure hose.
5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the pool is clear.
This works, and you don't lose pool water, but here are a couple of points:
1. Prevention is best. Keep chlorine levels over 2ppm, use algaecide, even when the pool looks good.
2. The cartridge filter rarely survives. Once the pool is clear, buy a new filter and throw out the old one.Here is more advice and knowledge from Wiki s' contributors:First off you need to shock the pool. I recommend buying granular chlorine (normally about $5 for 2lbs) and mixing it with water. It is much cheaper than buying liquid shock. Add 2 tablespoons of glandular to one gallon of water and dissolve it. Broadcast around the pool, then run the filter for 48 hours. If algae is present, use a copper algaecide to rid the pool of the growth before shocking.
Over chlorination will not cause algae growth. Period. Have the pool tested for phosphates. In many cases, this causes repeated algae growth. Then triple shock with 3L liquid chlorine per 10000L pool water. You have to add enough chlorine to kill all the algae and leave a bit of chlorine left over. Once the dead algae settles to the bottom, vacuum to waste.
Heavily shock the pool, depending on how many gallons your pool is, preferably using liquid chlorine. Do that every other day until the algae is gone. Clean your filter at least twice a day if using a cartridge filter and backwash once a day if using a D.E. filter.
You can also re-filter the pool or have a professional clean the pool.
Alternative Methods and Technology
Over the last four or five years we have been substituting an electronic purifier for chemicals. Chemicals in the main are old technology, are expensive, and if you are in a pool for a long time, you can get itchy skin and sore eyes. A company called Care Free Clearwater produces an electronic purifier developed by NASA. For us, it has worked very well over the years. We have not had any problems with "green" pools.
It's true that too much chlorine does not cause algae growth, but there is a better and safer way to clean a pool. Advanced treatment options, such as ultraviolet technology, provides a greater destruction rate of bacteria, algae, virus and germs than any chemical treatment. Recent studies by the World Health Organization recognise UV as the only treatment option that kills the algae, bacteria, and virus without the harmful chemical side effects. You can reduce chemical use by as much as 95%. Science has provided a better way than using salt systems, chlorine, triple shock, and Muratic acid that is well worth looking into.
It's true that too much chlorine will not feed algae, but too many chloramines, which is dead or dormant chlorine, absolutely can and will. When triple shocking with chlorine, you must understand that you can only do it to 10 times your chlorine level. If your chlorine level is 2.0 ppm, you must add enough chlorine to reach 12 ppm, or you are
wasting time and money, and adding to the phosphate levels, which is algae's primary food. Ultraviolet is an awesome addition to any chemical, whether chlorine, bromine or salt. The key word is addition. Used as a stand alone sanitizer it will not recover quickly enough to kill bacteria in the water if you deplete its residual, which is like one person getting in a 500 gallon hot tub for 15 minutes and urinating once. Under those conditions, ultraviolet is no longer effective for quite some time.
Also - Algae will eat up any chlorine added to the pool. Many pool owners do not check for the stabilizer(conditioner) readings in the pool. Use a test strip that will read the conditioner level in the pool water. A low conditioner level means that the chlorine in the water has nothing to "bind" to, or is not "stabilized". Low levels of conditioner will cause the chlorine in the pool to disipate in a couple of days, no matter how much chlorine you add.
Another way of doing this is to add a specialty chemical designed to clear up the water in your pool. One such product is 'Clear Cloudy Pools' From Technical Pool Solutions. This product is really amazing all you do is add 1 oz per 1000 gallans and it is non-chlorine based and doesn't require that you shut down your pool. Unless of course it is too dirty to be open in the first place. This product removes all the particles from the water that are making your pool cloudy and drops them down to the main drain. Simply run your vacuum or main drain continuously until the particle have been removed.
Drain, clean with appropriate cleaners, refill and utilize the correct sanitation chemicals in the correct quantities.
Algae makes swimming pool water green.
Here is advice and input:
Black algae is a serious problem, particularly during the summer. In the semi-private pool we had, the technician tried to fix the problem with the water in the pool. We ended up [hired a new pool company] having to empty the pool, do the remedial things to the pool surface, replace the sand filter. It was expensive and probably would have been easier to do it the hard way first.
If it is at the bottom, brush with s/s brush turn pump off and add trichlor on top of the algae, let it seat for 2-3 days, brush again. If it is in the walls add silver based liquid algaecide as per manufacturer's recommendations.
"Black Algae" (actually blue-green algae) forms in cracks and crevices on pool surfaces, especially plaster finishes. We normally find black algae growing in, but not limited to, shady areas of the pool.
Black algae is more typically found in concrete or plaster finished pools; it is very uncommon to find it in vinyl liner pools. It is known for a heavy slime layer and "skeletal growths" that make it impervious to normal chlorine levels (1.0 - 2.5 ppm). Black algae can grow "condominium style" providing layers of algae one on top of the other. Slight cracks in plaster or fiberglass walls are perfect breeding grounds for black algae especially when the pool is not properly maintained.
Two ways to get rid of black algae, algaecides typically do not work, mainly just a waste of money. First way is to spread either cal hypo or granular triclor directly on the algae. Lower Ph so the killing form of chlorine is more effective generally 7.0 to 7.4. You first should brush the spots with a ss brush. Do not do this on a dark plaster or vinyl liner pool, chlorine will either bleach or stain color. When doing this turn off pool sweep for a few days. Second and most effective way is to get two cases of liquid chlorine 8 gallons, and two gallon of ammonia hydroxide (most pool stores can order this for you) and muriatic acid. Close the pool for two weeks. Do not let anyone swim or animals drink from the pool for at least two weeks (diarrhea). Lower pH to around 7.0 Add the 8 gallons of chlorine around the pool. Turn on filter pump let run for 24 hours at least. Now you have to add the amonia hydroxide. When you do this make sure that no one hangs around the pool for a few hours (there are some gasses from the mixture of chemicals). let your system run as normal after the 24 hours. Brush pool with ss brush as often as possible. And make sure that the pool is not use. can not stress this enough. Wait till the chlorine residual has lowered to safe levels to reuse pool. At least two weeks. May have to add more chlorine after week one depends on the amount of BA, may have to try method one during this process. What this does is with the combination of ammonia and chlorine raises the residual to around 50 ppm and burns out the BA from the root. Once this is done there will or may be etching in the plaster from were the BA was, to help with this get a sanding block from your local pool store or professional, and sand the areas were the BA was to make the plaster more uniform.
I am a pool professional and have done this on a few pools and works like magic. I have done this to a pool that was covered with black algae, tried everything on this pool and nothing else worked also did the first way that i talked about, only helped a little just slowed down.
Do not scrub the pool with acid, will do nothing other than burn plaster. You can use liquid chlorine to scrub pool, this works to kill the algae and helps to bleach the plaster and disinfects the pool when a pool was not properly sanitized. Muriatic acid is not going to kill the algae, only will temporarily make the algae disappear. If you have your pool re-plastered make sure that the plasterer cuts away the spots were the algae was. I have seen pools that had Black algae before being re-plastered and soon after new plaster was applied it came back. Some times you have to remove the gunite as well.
Mixing Any type of chlorine product with amonia hydroxide is asking for a dangerous out come. Don't Do It.
Balance your pool water, brush the algae spots with a stainless steel algae brush to break the outer shell, in a vinyl liner pool use a 3M black scrubber pad. Having done this, super shock raising Free Available Chlorine to 5 to 10 ppm add a good copper or silver based algaecide, make sure the product is chelated which will prevent staining and follow the instructions to the letter. These are products that more is not better.
They fly. If you see them failry close up, they have a small set of wings and can fly. They come into the pool looking for food such as algae.
I have seen entire pools damaged by crushed glass and glass bead blasting. That's why I don't recomend using it when options exist.
I have done a lot of tile cleanings and they do not come off easy. Chemicals are a waste of money. I have heard of Pressure washing as an alternative (only works with light build-up)and i don't mean to down any person whom has used a sander but it can harm the tile. Yes the sanding may work but you might end up causing yourself a large expense in the long run. but the best way is to blast it with Glass Bead.
If you are talking about wild mice then the chances are that they are ending up in the pool because they are trying to get a drink. So perhaps if you made water more easily accessible away from the edge of the pool they would get their water from there and not fall in the pool. I understand wild mice are an unpopular pest but if its wild mice then it would be the only way to stop them short of building a barrier around the pool. Mice do not like to cross open ground, so if you can place low water bowls in amongst foliage or in dark corners, they will far prefer those water access points. It's also a kind act, for the animals who share our world.
Orange or yellow-colored spots in pool water or on pool surfaces is generally called mustard algae. This can be brushed off, but unless you use a strong algaecide they'll come back.
You make sure your alkilinity and pH are correct, add 2 and 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine, 4 to eight caps full of Yellow Treat, lightly brush the pool, run pump 24 hours,backwash or rinse cartridge, keep stabilized chlorine tablets in your pool weekly and start by checking your T.D.S. level's and see if you have stabilizer in your water. No Mor Problems is also a excellent product that can be used in conjunction with Yellow Treat.
use mustard algecide. simple as that. its like 15$ a quart.
I use a product called "PHOSfree", by Natural Chemistry. Once you get rid of the Mustard Algae (through various steps), this product is used once a week as a preventative. The way I understand it from my local pool people is that the algae lives off of the phosphates in your pool, Phosfree kills the phosphates, therefore the algae cannot live.
Per information on bottle: "Phosfree" is not an algaecide or algaestat and does not kill algae. When added to your skimmer, a thin coating of Phosfree forms on the filter and phosphates are reduced to a very low level as pool water flows through it. Extensive research has proven phosphates are the limiting nutrient (food) for algae growth in lakes and rivers, and this is also true in swimming pools. Natural Chemistry's complete phosphate program results in clear perfect water, no waterline rings, no chemical odors, and phosphates. Normal sanitizer levels will prevent algae growth."
I'm sure this sounds like a commercial or that I'am an employee, but I assure you I'am just a very satisfied customer. This is the second summer using this in my pool, and I haven't had any mustard algae.
Kim H. Charlotte, NC
The last resort to get rid of the algae is to drain your pool and chlorine bath it. To chlorine bath your pool all you do is walk around the inside of the pool while pouring strait chlorine down the plaster or pebble-tec. Make sure that you spend plenty of time pouring the chlorine around the lights and other places that are covered in your pool because algae could very well be hiding behind them. Once you have done this you should be able to just fill you pool back up with fresh water leaving the chlorine in the bottom if you don't have a pump to take it out. Visit This site to learn more about pool cleaning!
Brandon D. Chandler, AZ
Yellow algae is a result of a lack of chlorine in the pool. Either the pool has had no chlorine added, or the pool has become overstabilized to the point where there is not enough free chlorine to kill the yellow algae. Either way, the solution is relatively simple. For an average sized pool (10,000 to 15,000 gallons), add 5 pound of granular sodium di-chlor shock, as well as an entire bottle of a product known as AlgaTec (made by Easy Care). To prevent any algae from reoccurring, begin using a phosphate remover (such as PhosFree). Ask your pool professional to test your phosphate levels, and reduce them to less than 100ppm.
Jody - Ohio
I have an inground, vinyl sided, salt generator pool. I have been dealing with mustard algae for close to a month. After doing a lot of research, I have resolved the problem...almost overnight. As others have said, the problem is essentially chlorine levels, but adjusting to a normal level now is not going to solve the problem. Here is what I did to resolve it. I purchased a product from Ace Hardware called Yellowrid. The instructions that I followed are: 1) increase PH to a level of 8. 2) add entire contents of bottle of yellowrid as described - 1 container treats 15,000 gallons. 3) shock the pool (I didn't think this was permitted with a salt generator, but it is). 4) switch the filtration to the main drains only and allow the system to run continuously until the problem is resolved. If you have an automatic cleaner, run this 24 hours as well. 5) 12 hours after the initial shock, shock the pool again. 6) 24 hours after step 5, shock the pool again. The pool will clear up within the first 24 hours (no more sickening green/yellow color). 7) allow the pool to return to normal levels - test the water and make adjustments as necessary. Mustard algae will return in force if you don't get it all. Make sure the levels of chlorine are kept to the optimal for your system. Good luck and happy swimming!
Initial care must always be taken when handling acid don't add concentrated acid directly to the water, it is safer to dilute it in a bucket first, and wear eye protection. Acid can be washed of by using copious amounts of water to dilute it.
This depends on the pH of the pool at the time and the size of the pool as well. In the past normal practice was to have a test kit on hand to test the pH of the water, which should fall some where between 7.2 and 7.6. And from the results calculate the amount of acid that needs to be added to the pool.
These days it is easier to take a sample of water to the pool shop where it can be electronically tested, giving you exact requirements re the pool water (this is usually a free service).
There is any number of ways for testing pool water just check with your pool shop or browse the web to find the method that suits you best.
You can easily calculate how much muriatic acid to add using this pool wizard calculator.
Always be careful with acid if you have a stained concrete deck, you will ruin the stain.
Having a properly balanced pool is not difficult, but it does take work.
I'm the pool operator at our local YMCA and keeping an 80,000 gallon pool balanced is pretty easy, once you all the elements in place and know what you're doing.
Chlorine 3.5-4.5, alkalinity 80-100, pH 7.6-7.8, not 7.2, hardness 150-250, not up to 400.
You have to stay on top of it because the chlorine can go down in a matter of hours if no one properly checks it.
Amount of acid depends on you pH and/or alkalinity level. See the chart in the link below for an exact dosage.
no not really.
it will disolve in to the pools chemicals and that's what makes it invisable.
The concentration from one or two little accidents is too small to see, but it is urine, perspiration etc that is responsible for sore eyes etc.
In chlorine-treated pools at least, they react with the disinfectant to produce unpleasant irritants and release chlorine. The chlorite itself does not cause irritation when used in the correct dilution (2 - 4ppm).
Rust in your water is caused by iron in your water supply. You can get a water softner and use the softened water to fill your pool, or you can fill your pool with the rusty water and use a scale and metal out chemical that you could purchase at any local pool dealer. If you choose to purchase the scale and metal out I would recommend taking a sample of your water so that they can test to find out the level of iron in your water. They then could instruct you on how much of the product you should use to clear your water up.
From talking with my spa guy, the only way is to drain, rinse and then refill. This is true for going the other way too. In no way is Baquacil compatible with halides.
Just converted this year myself. You need to wait until your Baquacil reading is zero. My pool had a reading that was false (showing Baquacil when none was present) so my dealer had me take a bucket of water and add some chlorine bleach, If their is no reaction, you can start the conversion. I added 2 gallons of shock a day for 5 days and then started with the chlorine tablets. Your pool will turn a murky color and you'll neeed to clean your filter a few times, but it will clear and you'll be on your way.I would have stayed with Baquacil, but I got algae every August and my friends with chlorine had none. Chlorine is a lot cheaper too.
I was told from another pool guy in my area, if you have baquacil, let your pool drain and get baquacil really low. Don't add anything else, then when your readings are really low slowly go into chlorine. You can't just throw it in and everything, just gradually. I am HATING baquacil, I read once it is cloudy its murder to get out and THEY were RIGHT. I have almost drained my 16x32 down to the bare to just get the cloud out with drop out. I am starting back immediately with chlorine.
More detail is avaiable at http://www.poolforum.com/pf/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=223&topic_id=1242&mesg_id=1242&page=, but in brief:
Use Chlorine to Raise PPM to ~15. Filter constantly. Don't flip at the bizzare color changes that will occur.
Check Clorine several times per day, add more as needed to raise to ~15. Watch filter pressure, backwash when needed. Wait.
When water clears, replace filter sand.
enjoy your new goop-free pool!
Follow these instructions to professionally close your pool for the winter season, protecting it from winter's harsh conditions and making opening it next season simple
You will need the following chemicals
Pool Shock, Algaecide, and Chlorinating Tablets
You will need the following Accessories
Winter Cover, Pool Pillows or Inner-tubes, Chlorine Float Dispenser and Water Bags (for in ground pools only)
Step One - Debris & Chemicals
Remove any debris from pool water by use of a leaf rake attachment. Add the appropriate amount of shock treatment to the pool water, as prescribed on the packaging.
Add the appropriate amount of algaecide to the pool water, as prescribed on the packaging.
Run your filter for the appropriate time to circulate all water once. (See your filter documentation for your size pool)
Step Two - Vacuum & Water Level
Vacuum your pool while setting your filter to the "back wash" or "waste" setting.
(This will help lower your water level)
After vacuuming, install the sump pump and drain pool to about 6 inches below your thru-the-wall skimmer
Step Three - Parts Disassembly & Cleaning
Disconnect all ladders, filter systems, hoses, solar reels and/or other accessories.
Using standard household cleansers, thoroughly clean all ladders, solar reels and/or other accessories.
Disassemble the filtration system.
Remove sand, cartridge or DE powder from your filtration tank.
Thoroughly clean all filter system parts.
Allow all items to dry.
Store all items in an area that will not be subject to freezing temperatures.
Step Four - Pillow & Cover Installation
Inflate all pool pillows or inner tubes. You can also use plastic bottles with sand or anti freeze in them for ballast
Install one pillow for every 15' of linear water surface.
(Example: a 15' x 30' would require at least two pillows)
Tie pillows to pool area via nylon rope and place equally with respects to pool walls and each other.
(this is extremely important! This prevents freeze damage)
Install winter cover as prescribed by the covers manufacturer.
Step Five - Winter Tips
During the winter months, remove any excess snow from the winter cover.
(If you have a solid cover, this will prevent excessive weight form tearing you cover)
(If you have a mesh cover, this will prevent excessive water build up)
just one thought to improve upon this answer in regards to the cover: when you install the cover, be sure to run the cover straight down the sides of the liner/wall prior to touching the water. then run the cover flat across the water. this will allow expansion when the water freezes and should prevent your 'water socks', or whatever you have anchoring your cover, from being pulled into the pool.
hope this helps
Water Evaporation from a Pool
The evaporation rate depends on the surface area of the pool, the temperature, and the relative humidity and the wind. I'm sure an "equation" containing the variables is known. Perhaps a civil or mechanical engineer would have a specific equation. I did find what seems to be a credible source that provides a reasonable answer. Here is the link: Marin municipal water district. They have a chart that lists 200-300 gallons per week for a medium-sized pool -- about 2%-5% of typical pool volumes. "Splash-out" water is probably a much more significant source of water loss.
Here are more opinions and answers:
Take a 5-gallon bucket and make a mark with a permanent marker at about the halfway point. Fill the bucket with water up to that point, and set the bucket right beside your swimming pool. Simultaneously, use a pencil to mark the water level on your pool tile. In that way, your can determine how much water has evaporated from the bucket and from the pool.
I am sure there are a lot of variables regarding geographic location and humidity levels. In the Mid-Atlantic, I would consider anything over 1/2" per day the mark to start looking for problems (unless you have a heated spa or waterfall, etc.).
between 4.9 to 5.5.
You may have a leak. If you add water so that it's up to the middle of your skimmers, and within 12 hours the water level has gone down more than 1/4 inch or so - you probably have a leak. If it takes several days for the level to go down, it's more likely to be evaporation.
yes you can put tile over almost anything. The most important item would be that the mastic / or adhesive would be required to be a water proof, (non affected) type, and dry with a certain amount of flexibility. The best type is a silicone based adhesive that will remain a little pliable. There can be no water during the adhesion process though, and you will not be able to use a normal grout. They make grout simulated materials that are similar to silicone as well, but without sheen and therefore give a finished look.
Here are more recommendations from other WIKI ers:
you should use a chlorine floater, shock it once a week and add algaecide weekly as a preventative.
Washing soda is the same thing as soda ash.
2. Soda Ash is the common name for Sodium Carbonate (Na2 CO3)