Saturn S-Series

what do you mean by "back up" if you mean your reverse light, they come on automatically when you put it into reverse, if they dont turn on then there is a problem somewhere whether its dead bulbs or a short. If you mean your safety/driving lights it depends, if its a 91-97 SC1/2 then you just turn the headlight knob on the left side of the wheel to the first or second position the third turn on the headlights. If i misunderstood the use of "back up light switch" please let me know as to give you a correct answer.

*this is an update, i found myself posting multiple answers on this site and figured to register, so instead of the ID2708334252 you can reach me via andrewharley89 so I can have a way to stay intouch on the issue if my answer is helpful or not and be able to provide a better response, thanks*

I tried the dishrag thing and it didn't work for me. The crank on my '97 SC2 is held on by a wire spring shaped like an omega. The top of the omega is located opposite the crank arm and is held up by two little standoffs 1/8 inch apart, so you can get a hook under it and pull it loose. I made a little hook (1/8") on the end of a strip of steel 3/64 X 3/32 inch. It was the backbone out of a discarded windshield wiper. About 1 inch up, I put about a 5 degree bend in it, the same direction as the hook, so that it could have some travel once it got inserted behind the handle. Push the trim panel in a little, slip the hook behind the handle opposite the arm, hook the spring and give it a sharp pull. I had to use pliers. The spring will pop off and roll under the car, so don't do this in the grass.

They arent the best subs out there but I just put them in my car and for the money you can build a bumping system around them. I got 2 12" insignia subbs and an insignia 500w amp, put it in 2 days ago and Im really impressed. They are actaully made by power acoustik, they are the best for the money, a good investment.

try to check the site below Bob. Goodluck!

fordf150.net

I don't know - but the question about the 1993 door handle is the same...

Around four quarts, give or take a few ounces.

check you tep sencer and youir fan relay drive safe

They don't have one. It's a 'sealed' tranny. Search on http://forums.vwvortex.com to learn more.

Behind the throttle body opening under the throttle position sensor. Takes Torx t-20 bit to remove -- 2 screws, use Torx bit on a 1/4" socket drive with a 1/4" socket to break seal on Torx screws.

No... sounds like an electrical problem.

battery replacement is quite easy. you will need the following tools: 1/4 inch rachet

8mm socket

10mm socket

13mm socket

latex gloves (optional) First open the hood and locate your battery. begin by removing the battery connections with the 8mm socket. Usual order is remove the black (ground) connection first, then the red (positive) connection. using your 10mm socket, locate the nut on the top portion of the hold down bar. remove the nut and set aside. At the point of where the hold down bar meets the body furthest on the driver side, there is a bolt holding it to the body. this is also 10mm, remove this as well. Follow the hold down bar down the left side of the battery. way down at the base there is a 13mm bolt. remove the bolt. the hold down bar should now be loose, you can pull the bar out of the way. use latex gloves to protect you from any acid corrosion that you may come in contact with. grab your battery and lift strait up. if your battery has a black plastic cover on it, while the battery is out of the vehicle remove the cover and use on your new battery. installation is opposit of removal. when connecting the battery cables back to the battery, connect the positive first, then the negative. Be sure to remove the keys from the vehicle, or roll down a window and the locks may lock once power is reconnected.

Pull the Spark plug wire and then use a dry cotton cloth with a flat screwdriver and get as much oil out as you can that way. Then pull the spark plug out and let the remainder of the oil flow back into the cylinder hole. Clean the plug off good so it will not short out the cylinder. Replace the spark plug. You will see a little smoke from the oil burning but it will be OK. You will need to replace the valve cover gasket to stop this problem from reocurring. Make sure to use a silicone sealer with the new gasket. Not hard to repair and can be done in about 1 hour. Make sure to clean the area where the gasket goes and remove all old gasket material.

Inspect vacuum lines & test intake manifold vacuum to detect vacuum leaks. If none are found, continue. (Depending on who you ask, good vacuum at idle is either 15-18"Hg or 14-18". If it's lower than 14, you'll definitely want to carefully trace all vacuum lines & connections.)

Remove the map sensor from the intake manifold. Set your volt meter to 5 or more volts. Turn the car key to the on/run position; do not start the car. Disconnect the connector & use your volt meter to verify that the supply wire is supplying 5 volts (probably the wire closest to the firewall). If it does not, fix that problem before continuing. Reconnect the connector. Carefully cut away just a little bit of sheathing from the signal wire (probably the one in the middle; cut just enough to expose enough wire to make contact with your volt meter's test probe). Remove the sleave from the MAP's nipple, and connect a vacuum pump to it. Measure the voltage from the sensor's signal wire as follows: 4.9V@0"Hg; 3.8V@6"Hg; 2.7V@12"Hg; and 1.0V@20"Hg. Every 3 inches of mercury is about 1/2 Volt difference in the output signal. So if your test is much off the above voltages, and you're getting an OBDII code that indicates a MAP circuit fault, replace your MAP sensor.

The only way to repair a worn tie rod is to replace it with a new one.

Remove the crown bolt from the tie rod.

Use a tie rod "fork" tool to remove the old tie rod from the axle assembly.

Unscrew the old tie rod from the rack and pinion assembly.

Install the new tie rod in reverse order.

Make certain to have the front end aligned afterward, otherwise you will wear out the tires and have poor control.

The most common reason believe it or not is the seat belt contorl unit in the center console right below the park brake.....People spill coffee on it and other liquids and cause it to fault. This is assuming you have the old style with Auto shoulder belts...

Unfortunately, if the head is cracked, not only can't you repair it in place, you'll probably need to replace the head. Typically, you can't determine if the head is cracked or if the head gasket is damaged until the head is removed. Anyone who is telling you otherwise is probably just trying to sell you the latest in a long line of "wonder products" that claim to do the impossible.

Yes. Antifreeze is actually pumped through the intake manifold. If the gasket is bad it is possible that it leaks out

The harmonic balancer must be removed to change the sensor because the crank position triggering rings on the back of the balancer are entwined with the pick-up, Sorry

Use a code scanner to find out what's wrong. Don't just replace parts without figuring out what's wrong first. Code scanners do not always 'tell the whole truth. I have a 1993 SL1 1.9l code scanner gives code 12. Which means OK on the sensors. Trouble is, as I use the foot throttle to increase engine speed to about 3400rpm, it immediately drops down to about 2500rpm and starts up on rpm until 3400 and than drops again. I am maintaining steady pressure on the foot throttle, by the way. Even when the car is parked in the driveway. Found out by electrical tests on the TPS and the MAP sensors and using a timing light, that the spark retard circuit is not working. I still have that to fix. Does your vehicle act the same way?

the best place is to remove the center seat belt in the back seat and bolt it to that...

When disk brake rotors get old they usually warp a little, causing disk brake "chatter". Fortunately, the rotors are easy to replace, even for a novice. It will probably cost you around $200.00 to $300.00 to have a shop do it for you. It's common to all vehicles with disk brakes and can be caused when the brakes overheat typically when going down long hills with the brakes on. In addition to the above answer, you may not need to replace the rotors. Take them to a machine shop at your local Auto Parts store and see if they can be turned. If so this usually cost around $10 per rotor. Be sure and replace the pads on both wheels, clean everything up with spray brake cleaner, and lube the slide pins unless they are corroded. If they are corroded very badly, replace them. You have warped brake rotors. You will need a brake inspection. They may find that all you need is resurfacing the brake rotors or they may find that your brake pads are worn out as well, and that you need a brake job. The rotors will have to be measured to see if they have not worn down too thin to resurface. The rotors have to be above a predetermined minimum thickness in order to be safe to use. If they are worn too thin, then they will have to be replaced.

Apply 12 volts directly to the fan. If it runs OK it is good.