Saturn S-Series

behind the cigarette lighter...just pull(gently)off the driver's side panel that's to the left of the cigarette lighter and you can stick your fingers in there and pull it out. It's called a combination flasher.

The correct firing order is 1-3-4-2.

Short circuit somewhere in the reverse-light or even the reverse switch itself. Other causes are also possible.

The lower motor mount is located on the driver side attached to the transmission.

Plugs, fuel filter, wires, POSSIBLY an oxygen sensor. The oxygen sensor should be replaced about every 60,000 to 80,000 miles, and if you wait too many miles the sensor will fail, and the "check engine" light will turn on.

There isn't much to do on a "tune up", just make certain everything is functioning properly. Run a diagnostic test on the computer to make certain there are no "codes", other than that, there aren't many things to do on a Saturn tune up.

Mine sticks sometimes and other times, seems to go around forever; "righty-tighty, leftly-loosey" doesn't seem to apply. When it sticks; I use channel-lock pliers as gently as possible on it, turn counter-clockwise a quarter turn, and it should come up (simetimes, that means pry up and wiggle back and forth) when the print on the cap is at 90 degrees from front. I suppose I should really get a new one.

I don't know if it would be the same way with an SL2, but I happen to have a 1996 Saturn SL1 that I replaced the alternator with and this is what I had to do to replace it.

First you have to get the car on a lift. Then, take off the passenger side front tire and then there is a plastic splash guard you have to remove to gain access to the alternator. In order to remove the alternator you have to take the tension off the pulley by releasing the serpentine belt. Then, remove the 3 bolts that mount the alternator. but before you remove any electrical connections to the alternator, disconnect the main negative of the battery to prevent shock or a power surge.

I have a 97 SL2 and I have done the alternator.

Everything he stated is correct. A few additional points.

The mounting bolts are very hard to see and you will need to rotate the pulley to get to all of them.

Once the alternator is free it needs to be removed through the wheel well. It won't appear to fit anywhere but it really does.

Additional points: I have changed alternators in SL2s about a dozen times now (much to my chagrin).

1. Before you even BEGIN disconnect your battery completely. You can cause serious damage to your alternator and car computer if you do not. Better to err on the side of caution you see. 2. The other safe thing to do is to remove the serpentine belt BEFORE you get the car on a lift device. 3. Next, raise the car on a lift so you can get underneath safely and easly. 4. Remove the passenger side front tire and splash guards. 5. Remove the electrical wiring from the alternator. 6. Remove the bolts on the alternator. (Taking care to have the alternator secured before removing the last bolt. 7. On many Sl2s upon removal of the last bolt, you may place your hand underneath it, and give it just about a quarter turn, and slowly slide it through an opening below the alternator that looks as though, and may feel as though it should never fit through. You can do this by giving it that quarter turn, and then sorta spiraling it through the opening in a slow and decisive manner.

Repeat these steps in reverse order to insert a new alternator.

The first time i did this it took me an hour, the second 1/2 hour, and there on out it only takes me about 15 minutes. Its a very simple process, almost as easy as changing your oil... the hardest part is undoing the bolts.

Be safe.

ben

From inside the engine compartment. Look down within the inside of the hood and you'll see the wiring harness going into it. There is a small plastic retainer that you lift then pull the plug back. Than a mount for it. It's really not that bad.

a lever is located on the left side of the column close to the dash

posseble because the fuel pump will suck air when fuel slashes witch causes air in fuel line . when air in the line reches the throttle body the sensers that control the fuel injecton sence a problem and there for sending a signal to the computer and finaly Check engine light comes on hope i was some help Kyle

The "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" valve pulls fumes from the inside of the crankcase, back into the intake. The general idea is, don't allow the crankcase to build pressure, since that's what contributes to main seal failure and severe oil leaks.

In the reservoir tank. You will see two wires running to tank and there is a float inside there. These tend to stick and tapping on side of tank will cause float to float thus turning off the light if that is your issue. These cars have a common problem with heater core leakage and head gasket leakage on the 4cyl.

No, it's fine but, if it was it might be a worn out universal joint.

Axle torque specs are as follows: Axle nut torque..............148Ftlbs

A slow crank or excessive power draw. Make sure that your battery is in good condition before condemning your starter.

Drain tranny fluid. Remove 30mm nut on axle end. remove brake caliper and disconnect tierod from spindle. Turn spindle all the Right. Pull axle from spindle. Then use a pry bar to remove it from the tranny. Be carefull NOT to damage the axle seals. Pry against the metal case of the tranny. It will just pop out. Installation is reverse

Yes they do. All cars with a computer "80's and newer require an O2 sensor, it gives the computer the amount of air/fuel in the exhaust system so the computer maintains a 14.7.1 fuel ratio . Yes they do. All cars with a computer "80's and newer require an O2 sensor, it gives the computer the amount of air/fuel in the exhaust system so the computer maintains a 14.7.1 fuel ratio .

yes. use brake cleaner to find the leak.

However replace your ects and clean your throttle body. This is normally the reason for a high idle. ----------------------------------------------------------- THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR ANSWER!

Please visit my BIO page for a link to my Saturn help site. under the link at the bottom that says "Starter" you will find a visual reference to the location of the starter and as to what it looks like.

Go to Autozone.com and look under repair info. This should get you going in the right direction.

Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then positive cable. Remove the red angle connector plug from the relay. Note what cables go to each stud on the relay, then remove the two nuts. Remove the two screws that hold the relay to the sidewall. Clean the relay ends of the cables while they're loose. Install the replacement relay, correct orientation is determined by the screw hole pattern, and reconnect cable ends. Be careful not to over torque the nuts - you're working against the plastic shell of the relay, and could crack it. Reconnect the relay control wire to the upper small screw stud. Aftermarket relays (e.g., AutoZone Duralast) have two terminals, labeled "S" and "I". The "I" is not used on the Bronco II (and other Fords). Reconnect battery cables, positive first.

I thought the fuse diagram was on the back side of the fuse panel cover.

On your 1992 FORD TRUCK AEROSTAR 4WD, the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH is: UNDER VEHICLE, CENTER, BELOW SEATING AREA, MOUNTED ON DRIVER SIDE OF TRANSMISSION info obtained from www.autozone.com

Oxygen Sensor Some vehicles have (2) and some have (4) O2 sensors.

When you start looking at the O2 sensors, they are normally numbered something like "Bank 1 Sensor 1" Bank 1 is on the passenger side; Bank 2 is on the driver's side. Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor (near the frame, between the block and the cat) and Sensor 2 is near the Y-pipe (downstream of the cat).

Normally it is the upstream sensors (sensor 1) that go first. They see the harshest conditions. You will need; Oxygen Sensor Socket Anti-Seized Penetrating Oil I have even used a small plumbers propane tank and heat it up and it help get them free. Sometimes it will take 15 minutes or take a few hours it depends on your luck...

There are two.

Open the hood, look down at the engine and the coils are behind the radiator fan, mounted low on the engine block, left of the bell housing.

The easiest thing to do is trace the plug wires from the sparkplugs to the coil.

Its best to buy the slave and master cylinder prebled from the dealer. Its $140 or so but it saves alot of hassle if you dont bleed it right.

Labor...Each side twists in to there perspective locations and then 2 bolts hold on the slave cylinder to the tranny.