Serpentine Belts

I don't know about a 92, but my 90 GM GS has no tensioner. Instead the alternator functions as the tensioner. Loosen the top bolt and slide it to the left.

You can ask your locale dealer for a copy of the belt route, or ask to buy a belt route label for your Neon

loosen the alternator and take off the old belt while your doing that watch how it comes off and put the new one on the some way after that tighten the belt back up and ur done

Best bet is to go to parts house and see if they can pull up a diagram of the serpentine belt pathway. Possibly NAPA parts may have this.

Remove the Right wheel and inner plastic fender which will allow you access to the tensioner side of the motor. There will be a few bolts holding into place on the block. Remove the bolts and remove the entire tensioner assembly. Reverse for replacement.

There is a central pulley that is spring loaded. There is a bolt on the end of it but you don't want to remove the bolt. You need to put a wrench on the bolt and take pressure off the belt with one hand and slip off the belt with the other. Try to remember the travel pattern for applying the new one. If you forget, there should be a picture of it somewhere inside the engine compartment.

Ok, here goes. First, buy, rent, or pay the deposit on the parts store's loaner long-handled serpentine belt tool. It has skinny sockets that you will need to replace the tensioner. Bite the bullet and get the tool. Also--bite another bullet and buy the tensioner when you buy the belt. Get the best quality belt and tensioner you can get: this is NO time or place to go cheap. If your serpentine belt BROKE, you likely have a greater problem than a worn belt. Before going to the parts store, check to see if the water pump or AC compressor is frozen up. Buy parts accordingly. The forces involved in breaking the belt will also tear the pulley on the tensioner to pieces. Just go ahead and replace the tensioner pre-emptively. That's why you bought it when you bought the belt, so do it now. Now, grit your teeth and accept the fact that you have to remove all the moter mount stuff. You'll have to support the engine (with a jack on a 2x4 to spread the weight) from underneath. You'll remove the 3 nuts (don't lose the blind bolt under the 3rd nut) on the top of the black stamped steel bracket, the two bolts in the passenger side fender well that hold the bottom of the 2nd stamped steel bracket, the two bolts holding the heavy duty silver bracket, and the three bolts holding the heavy black cast bracket to the underside of the heavy silver bracket. You will find that getting the 3/8" drive of a ratchet into the slight space offered by GM at the tensioner may be impossible. However, there is a 19mm flat-sided boss on the tensioner facing the front of the car. You can get a 19mm open end wrench, or a Crescent wrench, onto that boss and lift forcefully to turn the tensioner. Turn counterclockwise, as viewed from the passenger side, to loosen the belt. I would still opt to get the serpentine installation tool set from the parts store. (I also went ahead and made a 3/8" tool with more offset than the store-bought one. If you have welding capability, it's worth it to have the home-made tool.) Since you have removed all the motor mount stuff removed already, this is the time to remove and replace the tensioner. Just do it. A good new one (a Dayco brand tensioner) is about 50 bucks at a parts store. By now you'd pay three times that not to have to do this job again. So just do it. Considering the work you are going through to do all this on your day off, replacing the tensioner as a preventative measure is well worth it. You need skinny hands to get the bolt started, but it can be done without too much grief. Put some Never-Seize on the bolt threads before installation. Note that you have to engage the pin on the tensioner into the hole in the engine timing gear cover before tightening down the bolt. Use the NEW BOLT that will come with the tensioner: it's different than GM's. You already have removed the black stamped steel brackets that were attached to the fender, right? And you have also removed the heavy silver one that has the three big bolts (15 mm heads, two toward the back and one toward the front) and one empty hole at the front of the silver piece. You have replaced the tensioner because you do not want to go through this again next Spring. To install the new belt, you must LOOSEN the three bolts on the heavy and thick black cast and forged bracket that is attached to the engine. They are low and toward the front. This heavy forged thick bracket was attached to the thick silver piece with the three heavy bolts, and it is the black piece that prevents you from simply installing the belt around the power steering pump pulley. (BTW, removng the power steering pump won't help you--you have to get the belt inter-looped, like two links ina chain, with the black bracket.) By LOOSENING the three bolts in the heavy black bracket, you can just barely cause a gap at the rearmost heavy bolt location between the stamped steel engine mount boss and the heavy black bracket that will just barely allow you to slip in the belt. You may need to do a little gentle levering, but don't break anything. Note that I said LOOSEN--if you remove the three bolts you'll have coolant all over the place. Even so, you may have to remove the upper one completely to get enough of a gap at the rear for the belt to go through. Once the belt is "through the loop" of the heavy black bracket, be sure you also get it around (over) the power steering pully, under the water pump pulley, and headed down toward the AC pulley. Tighten the three bolts that you just loosened, and thread the belt on to the pulleys. It goes (ribbed side) back around the alternator, down and around the crank pulley (ribbed side), up and around the tensioner (smooth side), down and around the AC pulley (ribbed side), up and around the water pump pulley (smooth side), over the power steering pump pulley (ribbed side) and rearward to the alternator (ribbed side.) Whew! You'll quickly find that it won't voluntarilty go over the alternator pulley unless you relieve the tensioner. Use the tool you rented or bought or made to relieve the tensioner (see above), slip the belt over the alternator pulley (ribbed side), and then ease up on your death grip on the tensioner tool to allow the belt to tighten itself. If you chose NOT to replace the tensioner, this is a good time to reflect on the wisdom of that decision... CHECK ALL THE PULLEYS to be SURE the ribbed surface is centered on each ribbed pulley!! Misalignment will break the belt in a hurry, and then you can do this delightful task all over again. Ok, that was all easy. You started at 10:00 this morning and now it's 8:30 tonight. Now it's time to reassemble this beast. Whether today or tomorrow is up to you. You will find that dealing with the motor mount pieces is a challenge, especially in re-assembly. The one and only nice thing GM did for you is to have provided that 4th hole (the empty one) in the silver bracket--it allows you to pry and wiggle the motor mount pieces into alignment. Be prepared to adjust the engine up, down, front, and back a lot. With patience and some jockeying around, it all bolts together in reverse order of disassembly. Check for tools and anything you may have forgotten to tighten. The only left over parts should be the original GM tensioner attachment bolt and the old tensioner, both of which you replaced with the new tensioner, and the old belt. Check coolant level, and Voila !! You're done. Until it breaks again. --Tom

What kinda model, make? I just had to replace all my belts, serpentine and all... It was a pain, because my water pump went out and broke all the belts. -Jajo ;)

You need to take the engine shroud off by first removing the spark plug wires and unsrewing the torx screws. The belt tensioner is on the left front of the engine next to the alternator. If you look at the top of it you will see a threaded hole. You need to get a bolt for this and tighten it, what it does is pushes down on the tensioner and loosens the belt. Once the tensioner loosens the belt you will have to remove the shroud on the underside of the engine to make easier to access the belt and pullies for removal of the belt. It also helps to remove the one torx screw on the lower part of the shroud that is between the wheel well and drive belt (serpentine). Prior to removing the belt it helps to draw a picture of how the belt is routed around the pullies, unless you already have a diagram. You should be able to reach up and slip the belt off of each of the lower pullies , then slip off the belt from the upper pullies, and you can pull out from the top of the engine. To do this job you will need the following tools: A tool to grab the loops to remove the spark plugs, T27 torx screwdriver to remove the top engine shroud, a T25 to remove the bottom engine shroud, and the bolt that fits into the tensioner (the bolt I found that fits well has the following numbers on the head: 3F-88, I don't know much about bolt sizes, but hopefully that helps in locating one). Now that I have done it once, I could probably do it again in 15-20 minutes.

Its super easy!! You don't have to remove the tensioner pulley or anything..

-just get a socket that fits and place it on the bolt in the center of the pulley which is the small black round thing under the alternator

-pull down wards until you can slip the belt off and that's all you have to do to remove it.

Putting a new one on is easy too..you should have a sticker to your right that will tell you how it needs to be put on and the ridged side of the belt goes down and the smooth side up, once you put it on all the pulleys and stuff you have to pull the tensioner pulley down again..this is the trickiest part but heres a little trick

-don't put the belt over the alternator first

- pull the belt tight and hold the two pieces of the belt that need to go over the tensioner and the alternator together right above the pulley

-when you pull it down you can just place the belt on the pulley and slip it over the alternator..its easier than trying to get the belt over your socket to put on the pulley trust me it will be a pain in the ***!!

Hope this helps=)

autozone.com has online manuals that give step by step how to You tighten the tensioner on the bracket holding the air conditioner to loosen that belt then you turn the hold that adjusts the tension on the alternator shifting it forward to loosen that belt. You will have to take the AC belt off first, then the alternator belt.

remove the alternator belt first by loosening the 12mm aduster bolt about 1 1/2" then loosening the 12mm lock bolt. this will allow you to pivot the alternator down and remove the belt. then raise the front of the car, remove the passenger front wheel, and the plastic shield that covers the crank pulley (2 10mm screws). toward the rear of the engine, the power steering pump hangs down. loosen the bolt on the adjusting slot enough to pivot the pump toward the front of the car and voila! the belt is loose enough to pull off. replace the belt and use a suitable prybar to push the pump rearward to hold tension on the belt while retightening the lock bolt. put the alternator belt back on and tighten the adjuster bolt til the belt has good tension and retighten the lock bolt...youre done. if youre unsure of the tension needed to keep these accessories running properly, bring it to a garage. its an everyday thing for most techs.

1. Using a 15 mm wrench place it on the pulley bolt of the tensioner pulley 2. Pull the pulley toward the front of the vehicle. 3. The belt will slacken then slide the belt to the side and remove 4. Replace the new belt starting at the bottom crankshaft pulley 5. Slide belt over each pulley in a counter-clockwise rotation excepting the idler pulley 6. After the belt is around all pulleys except the idler use the 15mm wrench to pull the tensioner pulley forward and slide the belt under the idler pulley and release slowly 7. The belt should go a. Under the crank pulley b. Up inside the water pump pulley c. Out around the outside of the air conditioner compressor pulley d. Under the idler pulley (this is the last pulley to put belt on) e. Across up and around the alternator pulley f. Down around the power steering pulley g. Up over the tensioner pulley h. Down under the crank pulley Good Luck and Safe Knuckles P.s. obscenities are optional i found a picture of the diagram fan belthes the web sit ( http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_38000belt_1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1994-plymouth-voyager-awd-van-belt-diagram-vt29503.html&usg=__tddNYKmPJbCrU07Ig13DTeL-ooQ=&h=298&w=450&sz=35&hl=en&start=17&um=1&tbnid=LUy7UhqTIcqsRM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=127&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dchysler%2B1998%2Bvan%2Bfan%2Bbelt%2Bpictures%2Bdiagrams%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DG%26um%3D1 )

First, remove the broken belt very carefully. Then, prepare your work area. Having the right tools are critical. A serpentine belt remover/adjuster, Mopar Part #23-w3221 can really help save you time. It is a silver plier-looking tool with a gold tip that has a solid microprocessor embedded into the base.

Now, jack up the front end with tire jacks and stabilizers. Make sure your battery is fully disconnected. Take your spare key, and insert into the lip of the fuse box and twist 1/3 turn to the left. Now press hard, forcing the top to pop. Wash out the air cleaner while your at it or you may wish you had. Dust in a power converter steering box modulator rack box is a no no.

Ok, pop a couple of beers, chug one and sip the other. At this point you will either start getting sleepy or creepy. Pop a couple more beers, power drain these down your esophagus and hopefully the creepy thing will fade quickly.

Install the belt according to the package schematic, but without adding the d-clip retainer ring supplied. You may need to bend the alignment washer 6-7 degrees south of the ring equator balance indicator. Once the belt is loosely hung on the balance jam level bar, take up about 34mm of slack. More or less, and you can kiss the new belt goodbye.

First, remove the broken belt very carefully. Then, prepare your work area. Having the right tools are critical. A serpentine belt remover/adjuster, Mopar Part #23-w3221 can really help save you time. It is a silver plier-looking tool with a gold tip that has a solid microprocessor embedded into the base. Now, jack up the front end with tire jacks and stablizers. Make sure your battery is fully disconnected. Take your spare key, and insert into the lip of the fuse box and twist 1/3 turn to the left. Now press hard, forcing the top to pop. Wash out the air cleaner while your at it or you may wish you had. Dust in a power converter steering box modulator rack box is a no no. Ok, pop a couple of beers, chug one and sip the other. At this point you will either start getting sleepy or creepy. Pop a couple more beers, power drain these down your esophogus and hopefully the creepy thing will fade quickly. Intall the belt according to the package schematic, but without adding the d-clip retainer ring supplied. You may need to bend the alignment washer 6-7 degrees south of the ring equator balance indicator. Once the belt is loosely hung on the balance jam level bar, take up about 34mm of slack. More or less, and you can kiss the new belt goodbye. Pop the last two beers of the six pack, and make it a day. Good luck and have a little fun.

You need to loosen the belt tensioner. There is a large bolt that needs to be loosened in the center of the tensioner pulley. Then the small vertical bolt is turned in the direction to loosen the belt. After the tensioner is loose replace the belt and retension it.

locate the "tensioner" pulley, on the schematic that is under your hood, on top of the radiator. Then place a socket on the bolt head in the middle of that pulley, and with a breaker bar, pull the entire pulley towards the front of the van, releasing the tension, and letting the belt slip off easily. Repeat this procedure once you have the new belt routed around most of the pulleys properly and slip it over the tensioner pulley last. Double check belt alignment on all pulleys, make sure it is well tensioned, then start your van and let it idle about 5 to 10 seconds, shut it off, and recheck the belt alignment and tension. If all looks well, then close the hood and call it a job well done.

The serpentine belt you can look at the diagram in your engine compartment for actual routing.

The tensioner mounts to the left side of the engine. You need to unbolt the whole assembly.

Actually, the belt can be loosened by tightening the bolt of the tensioner pulley. When fully tightened, the pulley will act as a swivel.

there should be a diagram on the top of your radiator housing

This answer depends on what year you're talking about. A generic guide is below:

Remove tension on the belt tensioner and slip the belt off the pulley. The tensioner is the spring loaded mechanisim on a pulley that holds pressure on the belt. Use caution on reinstalling the belt, makesure you replace the belt exactly the same way it came off or you could turn a pulley in reverse and cause your engine to heat up or not charge.

There are links in related links.

Install a new tensioner pulley. If a serpentine belt is loose then the spring in the tensioner pulley is probably weak or the tensioner pulley is hanging up on something. Have fun! Chris

on a 96 (3.1 V6) it's a side mount it is on the passenger side of the car on the side of the engine, very close to the fender. the tensioner wheel will accept either an open end wrench or a 1/2 inch or larger pull bar. You will need a pull bar to change the tensioner or the belt, you can rent them from many autoparts stores.

The tensioner is automatic- no adjustment needed, or required.

Tim is correct, if the belt is loose it means it is worn out, Replace it.

I cut the key off a 3/8 ratchet and welded it onto a piece of 1/4 flat steel stock 1" wide by 8" long, it was the only way I could fit a tool in there

Pry up on the tensioner pulley.