Colored surfaces are basically an aesthetic choice by the owner of the pool. It is a myth that the darker the surface the warmer the pool. To illustrate, put a black plate and a white plate in the bottom of the pool. Remove them a few hours later and see if there is any temperature difference between them. There won't be. I've tried this. Water absorbs all the heat from the sun in the top 12 inches and never has a chance to reach the bottom. I have also monitored the temp. in white and black bottom pools that were next door to each other and had virtually identical conditions....no difference. Actually I have done this 3 times in the last 34 years to prove this point. Won a $500 bet on one them:-) Evaporative cooling is the single most important factor in pool temps. Every 7 mph of wind velocity doubles the evaporation rate.
It depends on many factors including the type of surface you choose (Diamond Brite, White Plaster, Pebbletec, etc.), and the type of coping stones, but I would estimate around $3,000 and $6,000.
My suggestion is to Internet research styles. I kinda knew what I was looking for when I walked in, then they suggested some of the extras like the coping around the pool edging where it meets the concrete. Normally there's a metal part that the concrete meets to, the cantilever coping added a nice finish too it.
You can go for copper ionization technology. It is one the best and healthiest alternative for saltwater swimming pool.
If you are looking to know more about Copper ionization visit Intec America website.
Magnesium sulfate monohydrate is used as a blast media to clean tile
To clean murky and green pool water, follow these steps:
1. First and foremost make sure you have good flow. Clean your filter and all your baskets.
2. Next, balance your water. If your alkalinity is low, you are running the risk of staining your pool.
3. Then, use a algaecide and shock your pool. When you purchase the algaecide ask someone that works there( or read the directions carefully). The ones that have been found to work best require you to shock with the treatment.
4. After that, run your filter 24 hours and test it again. The algaecide will bring your chlorine level down so you must make sure it does not get too low. At this point your water may be cloudy or you may have a lot of dead algae on the floor.
5. Vacuum up that algae and clean that filter out. If the water is cloudy use the directions below they are great! Just keep cleaning that filter out until that water is clear.
Another effective way to solve this problem, using the cartridge filter, is this:
1. To kill the algae, use lots of chlorine, algaecide etc.
2. Coagulate the dead algae into large clumps. Pool supply stores sell a spray coagulator that attaches to a garden hose. Spray it over the pool and let it sit overnight.
3.Add diatomaceous earth to the filter. This white powder is sold in pool stores and used to be necessary before cartridges became affordable. Add a lot. This coats the filter and makes it impermeable, even to algae-sized particles.
4. Run the vacuum and filter till pressure exceeds 35, then clean. Cleaning the filter causes a flood of the white earth to run off, so pick a good site. I bring mine to the car wash and clean it with the rinse pressure hose.
5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the pool is clear.
This works, and you don't lose pool water, but here are a couple of points:
1. Prevention is best. Keep chlorine levels over 2ppm, use algaecide, even when the pool looks good.
2. The cartridge filter rarely survives. Once the pool is clear, buy a new filter and throw out the old one.Here is more advice and knowledge from Wiki s' contributors:First off you need to shock the pool. I recommend buying granular chlorine (normally about $5 for 2lbs) and mixing it with water. It is much cheaper than buying liquid shock. Add 2 tablespoons of glandular to one gallon of water and dissolve it. Broadcast around the pool, then run the filter for 48 hours. If algae is present, use a copper algaecide to rid the pool of the growth before shocking.
Over chlorination will not cause algae growth. Period. Have the pool tested for phosphates. In many cases, this causes repeated algae growth. Then triple shock with 3L liquid chlorine per 10000L pool water. You have to add enough chlorine to kill all the algae and leave a bit of chlorine left over. Once the dead algae settles to the bottom, vacuum to waste.
Heavily shock the pool, depending on how many gallons your pool is, preferably using liquid chlorine. Do that every other day until the algae is gone. Clean your filter at least twice a day if using a cartridge filter and backwash once a day if using a D.E. filter.
You can also re-filter the pool or have a professional clean the pool.
Alternative Methods and Technology
Over the last four or five years we have been substituting an electronic purifier for chemicals. Chemicals in the main are old technology, are expensive, and if you are in a pool for a long time, you can get itchy skin and sore eyes. A company called Care Free Clearwater produces an electronic purifier developed by NASA. For us, it has worked very well over the years. We have not had any problems with "green" pools.
It's true that too much chlorine does not cause algae growth, but there is a better and safer way to clean a pool. Advanced treatment options, such as ultraviolet technology, provides a greater destruction rate of bacteria, algae, virus and germs than any chemical treatment. Recent studies by the World Health Organization recognise UV as the only treatment option that kills the algae, bacteria, and virus without the harmful chemical side effects. You can reduce chemical use by as much as 95%. Science has provided a better way than using salt systems, chlorine, triple shock, and Muratic acid that is well worth looking into.
It's true that too much chlorine will not feed algae, but too many chloramines, which is dead or dormant chlorine, absolutely can and will. When triple shocking with chlorine, you must understand that you can only do it to 10 times your chlorine level. If your chlorine level is 2.0 ppm, you must add enough chlorine to reach 12 ppm, or you are
wasting time and money, and adding to the phosphate levels, which is algae's primary food. Ultraviolet is an awesome addition to any chemical, whether chlorine, bromine or salt. The key word is addition. Used as a stand alone sanitizer it will not recover quickly enough to kill bacteria in the water if you deplete its residual, which is like one person getting in a 500 gallon hot tub for 15 minutes and urinating once. Under those conditions, ultraviolet is no longer effective for quite some time.
Also - Algae will eat up any chlorine added to the pool. Many pool owners do not check for the stabilizer(conditioner) readings in the pool. Use a test strip that will read the conditioner level in the pool water. A low conditioner level means that the chlorine in the water has nothing to "bind" to, or is not "stabilized". Low levels of conditioner will cause the chlorine in the pool to disipate in a couple of days, no matter how much chlorine you add.
Another way of doing this is to add a specialty chemical designed to clear up the water in your pool. One such product is 'Clear Cloudy Pools' From Technical Pool Solutions. This product is really amazing all you do is add 1 oz per 1000 gallans and it is non-chlorine based and doesn't require that you shut down your pool. Unless of course it is too dirty to be open in the first place. This product removes all the particles from the water that are making your pool cloudy and drops them down to the main drain. Simply run your vacuum or main drain continuously until the particle have been removed.
As with all design choices, the answer is it depends on what you are trying to achieve. First, let's start with a few basics on understanding the comparison. A genuine Kool Deck brand surface from Mortex Mfg. is a pure cementitious topping unlike an "acrylic", which is a polymer modified cement. A Kool Deck surface will undoubtedly have a lower relative surface temperature than an equivalent acrylic topping of the similar color and will also be more skid-resistant when either wet or dry. A polymer modified cement topping will generally have much better stain resistance than a Kool Deck surface (which can be enhanced to provide similar stain resistance at a cost). Polymer toppings for the most part are deemed easier to apply and require less people for a job. This simplicity does come at a price, as the cost of materials is significantly higher than all the materials required for a Kool Deck surface. The major hurdle for those looking for Kool Deck surface is finding a skilled applicator to insure a proper application - look at the work of the contractor and do your homework!
Bottom line is that a Kool Deck surface is still the best choice for barefoot areas where comfort is king, while polymers are better suited for deck areas expecting staining problems, customer wants custom patterns, or applicators are more comfortable installing the latter.
Sun Deck is an acrylic concrete deck finish that is very durable, stain resistant, and cool. Also quite popular in South Texas.
Algae makes swimming pool water green.
Here is advice and input:
Black algae is a serious problem, particularly during the summer. In the semi-private pool we had, the technician tried to fix the problem with the water in the pool. We ended up [hired a new pool company] having to empty the pool, do the remedial things to the pool surface, replace the sand filter. It was expensive and probably would have been easier to do it the hard way first.
If it is at the bottom, brush with s/s brush turn pump off and add trichlor on top of the algae, let it seat for 2-3 days, brush again. If it is in the walls add silver based liquid algaecide as per manufacturer's recommendations.
"Black Algae" (actually blue-green algae) forms in cracks and crevices on pool surfaces, especially plaster finishes. We normally find black algae growing in, but not limited to, shady areas of the pool.
Black algae is more typically found in concrete or plaster finished pools; it is very uncommon to find it in vinyl liner pools. It is known for a heavy slime layer and "skeletal growths" that make it impervious to normal chlorine levels (1.0 - 2.5 ppm). Black algae can grow "condominium style" providing layers of algae one on top of the other. Slight cracks in plaster or fiberglass walls are perfect breeding grounds for black algae especially when the pool is not properly maintained.
Two ways to get rid of black algae, algaecides typically do not work, mainly just a waste of money. First way is to spread either cal hypo or granular triclor directly on the algae. Lower Ph so the killing form of chlorine is more effective generally 7.0 to 7.4. You first should brush the spots with a ss brush. Do not do this on a dark plaster or vinyl liner pool, chlorine will either bleach or stain color. When doing this turn off pool sweep for a few days. Second and most effective way is to get two cases of liquid chlorine 8 gallons, and two gallon of ammonia hydroxide (most pool stores can order this for you) and muriatic acid. Close the pool for two weeks. Do not let anyone swim or animals drink from the pool for at least two weeks (diarrhea). Lower pH to around 7.0 Add the 8 gallons of chlorine around the pool. Turn on filter pump let run for 24 hours at least. Now you have to add the amonia hydroxide. When you do this make sure that no one hangs around the pool for a few hours (there are some gasses from the mixture of chemicals). let your system run as normal after the 24 hours. Brush pool with ss brush as often as possible. And make sure that the pool is not use. can not stress this enough. Wait till the chlorine residual has lowered to safe levels to reuse pool. At least two weeks. May have to add more chlorine after week one depends on the amount of BA, may have to try method one during this process. What this does is with the combination of ammonia and chlorine raises the residual to around 50 ppm and burns out the BA from the root. Once this is done there will or may be etching in the plaster from were the BA was, to help with this get a sanding block from your local pool store or professional, and sand the areas were the BA was to make the plaster more uniform.
I am a pool professional and have done this on a few pools and works like magic. I have done this to a pool that was covered with black algae, tried everything on this pool and nothing else worked also did the first way that i talked about, only helped a little just slowed down.
Do not scrub the pool with acid, will do nothing other than burn plaster. You can use liquid chlorine to scrub pool, this works to kill the algae and helps to bleach the plaster and disinfects the pool when a pool was not properly sanitized. Muriatic acid is not going to kill the algae, only will temporarily make the algae disappear. If you have your pool re-plastered make sure that the plasterer cuts away the spots were the algae was. I have seen pools that had Black algae before being re-plastered and soon after new plaster was applied it came back. Some times you have to remove the gunite as well.
Mixing Any type of chlorine product with amonia hydroxide is asking for a dangerous out come. Don't Do It.
Balance your pool water, brush the algae spots with a stainless steel algae brush to break the outer shell, in a vinyl liner pool use a 3M black scrubber pad. Having done this, super shock raising Free Available Chlorine to 5 to 10 ppm add a good copper or silver based algaecide, make sure the product is chelated which will prevent staining and follow the instructions to the letter. These are products that more is not better.
We can't exactly determine the amount of gallons of water that fit a 6 ft by 2 ft tub since this all depends on the material of the tub and the height of the tub!
Orange or yellow-colored spots in pool water or on pool surfaces is generally called mustard algae. This can be brushed off, but unless you use a strong algaecide they'll come back.
You make sure your alkilinity and pH are correct, add 2 and 1/2 gallons of liquid chlorine, 4 to eight caps full of Yellow Treat, lightly brush the pool, run pump 24 hours,backwash or rinse cartridge, keep stabilized chlorine tablets in your pool weekly and start by checking your T.D.S. level's and see if you have stabilizer in your water. No Mor Problems is also a excellent product that can be used in conjunction with Yellow Treat.
use mustard algecide. simple as that. its like 15$ a quart.
I use a product called "PHOSfree", by Natural Chemistry. Once you get rid of the Mustard Algae (through various steps), this product is used once a week as a preventative. The way I understand it from my local pool people is that the algae lives off of the phosphates in your pool, Phosfree kills the phosphates, therefore the algae cannot live.
Per information on bottle: "Phosfree" is not an algaecide or algaestat and does not kill algae. When added to your skimmer, a thin coating of Phosfree forms on the filter and phosphates are reduced to a very low level as pool water flows through it. Extensive research has proven phosphates are the limiting nutrient (food) for algae growth in lakes and rivers, and this is also true in swimming pools. Natural Chemistry's complete phosphate program results in clear perfect water, no waterline rings, no chemical odors, and phosphates. Normal sanitizer levels will prevent algae growth."
I'm sure this sounds like a commercial or that I'am an employee, but I assure you I'am just a very satisfied customer. This is the second summer using this in my pool, and I haven't had any mustard algae.
Kim H. Charlotte, NC
The last resort to get rid of the algae is to drain your pool and chlorine bath it. To chlorine bath your pool all you do is walk around the inside of the pool while pouring strait chlorine down the plaster or pebble-tec. Make sure that you spend plenty of time pouring the chlorine around the lights and other places that are covered in your pool because algae could very well be hiding behind them. Once you have done this you should be able to just fill you pool back up with fresh water leaving the chlorine in the bottom if you don't have a pump to take it out. Visit This site to learn more about pool cleaning!
Brandon D. Chandler, AZ
Yellow algae is a result of a lack of chlorine in the pool. Either the pool has had no chlorine added, or the pool has become overstabilized to the point where there is not enough free chlorine to kill the yellow algae. Either way, the solution is relatively simple. For an average sized pool (10,000 to 15,000 gallons), add 5 pound of granular sodium di-chlor shock, as well as an entire bottle of a product known as AlgaTec (made by Easy Care). To prevent any algae from reoccurring, begin using a phosphate remover (such as PhosFree). Ask your pool professional to test your phosphate levels, and reduce them to less than 100ppm.
Jody - Ohio
I have an inground, vinyl sided, salt generator pool. I have been dealing with mustard algae for close to a month. After doing a lot of research, I have resolved the problem...almost overnight. As others have said, the problem is essentially chlorine levels, but adjusting to a normal level now is not going to solve the problem. Here is what I did to resolve it. I purchased a product from Ace Hardware called Yellowrid. The instructions that I followed are: 1) increase PH to a level of 8. 2) add entire contents of bottle of yellowrid as described - 1 container treats 15,000 gallons. 3) shock the pool (I didn't think this was permitted with a salt generator, but it is). 4) switch the filtration to the main drains only and allow the system to run continuously until the problem is resolved. If you have an automatic cleaner, run this 24 hours as well. 5) 12 hours after the initial shock, shock the pool again. 6) 24 hours after step 5, shock the pool again. The pool will clear up within the first 24 hours (no more sickening green/yellow color). 7) allow the pool to return to normal levels - test the water and make adjustments as necessary. Mustard algae will return in force if you don't get it all. Make sure the levels of chlorine are kept to the optimal for your system. Good luck and happy swimming!
Ummmmmmmmm I'm not too sure I'm bad at math.
Initial care must always be taken when handling acid don't add concentrated acid directly to the water, it is safer to dilute it in a bucket first, and wear eye protection. Acid can be washed of by using copious amounts of water to dilute it.
This depends on the pH of the pool at the time and the size of the pool as well. In the past normal practice was to have a test kit on hand to test the pH of the water, which should fall some where between 7.2 and 7.6. And from the results calculate the amount of acid that needs to be added to the pool.
These days it is easier to take a sample of water to the pool shop where it can be electronically tested, giving you exact requirements re the pool water (this is usually a free service).
There is any number of ways for testing pool water just check with your pool shop or browse the web to find the method that suits you best.
You can easily calculate how much muriatic acid to add using this pool wizard calculator.
Always be careful with acid if you have a stained concrete deck, you will ruin the stain.
Having a properly balanced pool is not difficult, but it does take work.
I'm the pool operator at our local YMCA and keeping an 80,000 gallon pool balanced is pretty easy, once you all the elements in place and know what you're doing.
Chlorine 3.5-4.5, alkalinity 80-100, pH 7.6-7.8, not 7.2, hardness 150-250, not up to 400.
You have to stay on top of it because the chlorine can go down in a matter of hours if no one properly checks it.
Amount of acid depends on you pH and/or alkalinity level. See the chart in the link below for an exact dosage.
I'm facing this problem now, with the city authorities after me to take care of it (with less than 28 days notice!) The pool, an inground gunite kidney-shaped beauty heaved out of the ground shortly after we bought the house. It seems it will need a drainage pipe and/or (??) get broken down the bottom, get filled with dirt and the upended side either broken up (more money) or, which I like, turned into a stone fence. Inside will be a garden area. Good luck. Just be sure to break it up at the bottom. I heard of one guy who didn't do this and he had a swamp in his backyard for two years before going back at it again.
Check with your local government to see if you need a permit and inspection when you do this.
no not really.
it will disolve in to the pools chemicals and that's what makes it invisable.
The concentration from one or two little accidents is too small to see, but it is urine, perspiration etc that is responsible for sore eyes etc.
In chlorine-treated pools at least, they react with the disinfectant to produce unpleasant irritants and release chlorine. The chlorite itself does not cause irritation when used in the correct dilution (2 - 4ppm).
a starting point might be mother earth news. they go over living pool and talk about materials. you could always add a pump, filter, waterfall, fountain to maintain your pool. motherearthnews
go to archives issue 193
august/September 2002 issueAnswerWe had the same problem. I scoured libraries, bookstores and the net. I tried engineers as well. We were looking to build our own indoor pool - there are seemingly no experts that cover the construction, humidity concerns etc... My best reference was the internet and about 400 hours plus. I grew up with a pool, ran a pool - including maintenance - but always outdoors. I looked for postings in the end in which people were asking for help with specific problems ie leaks, mold, shifting etc... so I could troubleshoot. We've built our own indoor pool - saving thousands and thousands of dollars and haven't had any problems. I would do it again in a second. Do you have a specific question? I'd love to help if I can, thanks, Kelli AnswerI built my own pool a few years back in Chandler Arizona.
It took a bunch of work and research on my part and a lot of time. I documented my experience on a website:
http://www.howibuiltmyownpool.com/AnswerBuild your own pool information -- you can get it from many sources, but the swimming pool professional starts with the Bible from ANSI/NSPI, not to mention many hours of TECH Cert classes, mfgr seminars, state and local requirements, advanced schooling, just to name a few.
Non-licensed individuals rely on OJT, friends and what engineers know as SWAG.
It's easy to hire a swimming pool professional, engineer, or architect to handle your project. You get what you pay for and piece of mind when you hire a professional who is licensed and insured.
Are your looking for a reference on construction codes for an inground pool. The latest codes are ANSI/NSPI-5 2003 55 Pages of the most current codes adopted by most building officials. This is just one reference for sale. Last I knew you could order it from ANSI for around 200.00. You cant expect your local library to keep current on construction building codes, on the budgets they have a hard time keeping up on the newest poly sci rags.
On a very serious and noteworthy item is dual main drains, you're responsible for building with the most current standards as the contractor. You will also note changes to slope and walls in all swimming pools. Believe me the old liners cheap and for sale show up every day that do not meet code. Every day I find many suppliers unaware of changes that's a real fact. Swim safe hire a licensed insured swimming pool professional.ANSWERBuy the pool kit through a reputable pool dealer, get plenty of advice and have someone reliable guide you through it, tell you the next step, a man who has built pools and knows what they are doing.
you will probably get sick or die only if you drink it out of a bottle not a pool
Water Evaporation from a Pool
The evaporation rate depends on the surface area of the pool, the temperature, and the relative humidity and the wind. I'm sure an "equation" containing the variables is known. Perhaps a civil or mechanical engineer would have a specific equation. I did find what seems to be a credible source that provides a reasonable answer. Here is the link: Marin municipal water district. They have a chart that lists 200-300 gallons per week for a medium-sized pool -- about 2%-5% of typical pool volumes. "Splash-out" water is probably a much more significant source of water loss.
Here are more opinions and answers:
Take a 5-gallon bucket and make a mark with a permanent marker at about the halfway point. Fill the bucket with water up to that point, and set the bucket right beside your swimming pool. Simultaneously, use a pencil to mark the water level on your pool tile. In that way, your can determine how much water has evaporated from the bucket and from the pool.
I am sure there are a lot of variables regarding geographic location and humidity levels. In the Mid-Atlantic, I would consider anything over 1/2" per day the mark to start looking for problems (unless you have a heated spa or waterfall, etc.).
If rectangular about 21,000 gallons
if oval about 16,000 gallons
-- First, no manufacturer of fiberglass pools guarantees against cracks. Period.
-- Second, all pools can have problems when the water is emptied; when leaks are not repaired in a timely fashion; or when the water is lower than the surrounding groundwater.
Fiberglass pools are great: They can be installed with fewer subcontractors and in less time than a gunite pool. And they also have a smooth surface. Gunite pools have many choices and are not limited in size, shape or depth. They also have many smooth surface options and color choices and warranties vary.
Last and most important: YES, it takes a professional to install any in-ground swimming pool. If you don't hire one, you most likely will not get a good pool -- no matter what the shell is constructed of. It takes many years to learn to be a pool professional; this is not a craft that happens overnight.
Hire a professional, licensed, insured pool pro to get the pool you expect and to save money in the long run. Read your warranty: The fiberglass manufacturers have great warranties, as do the gunite manufacturers and even the Vinyl Liner in-ground pools alike.Here is more input from others:="h2headingh3"style="color:rgb(0,0,0);"name="here_is_more_input_from_others:">
I am a fiberglass swimming pool installer. 12 years and counting with A++ knowledge and record. FYI- I have scene floating gunite pools and floating vinyl liners. If a pool develops a leak or the ground shifts or flooding occurs, it does not matter what type of pool you have, if there is more water on the outside of the pool shell than on the inside, something has to give. The liner pools develope floating liners even being full if there is a ground water issue and no precautions are taken during the install. Such as sump systems for the ground water.
Fiberglass Is 17 times denser that concrete giving it strength and more flexibility. I have seen them move up to as much as 5'' and hold their integrity.
Now. If the proper installation is applied to the life time warrenty shell, it to can be a lifetime backyard enjoyment for the family. The installation preperation and consideration of all elements and ground conditions to the area makes each and every pool install differant. Never one the same. So look at all of the variables involved with your backyard and keep in mind, If I you willing to spend your hard earned money on something that needs to last at least 20 plus years, what can be done during the install to help the projects longevity and your future sanity?="margin-right:0px">
Many pool chemical products require that you know the amount of water your pool holds so that you correctly use their product. I found a quick formula for my oval pool on the back of one such product found at my local home improvement center: length x width x avg. depth x 5.9 = total gallons. For your specific question to be answered correctly, the shape of your pool is needed. However, if your pool is oval like mine, the answer would be approximately 17,370 gallons. After briefly researching the calculation for a rectangular pool, the formula to use is: length x width x avg depth x 7.5 If your pool is rectangular, the answer then becomes approximately 22,080 gallons.
One cubic foot of water contains 7.48 gallons. Figure the size of the pool by cubic feet and multiply.
Go to www.poolandspachemicals.co and put in your numbers and they wiil tell u
Assuming that the average water level would be 5.75' (8.5 + 3 / 2), you would figure it as 16 x 32 x 5.75= 2944 cubic feet x 7.48 (gallons per cubic foot) = 22,021 gallons
You may have a leak. If you add water so that it's up to the middle of your skimmers, and within 12 hours the water level has gone down more than 1/4 inch or so - you probably have a leak. If it takes several days for the level to go down, it's more likely to be evaporation.
Usually, the best and easiest way to determine is by looking at the prices: The higher the price, the better the pool.
Stainless steel may be the best. But steel will be affected by chlorine and may rust eventually. Aliminum does not rust.
Aluminum by nature is very soft, unless it is an "alloy," which would make it too rigid for above-ground pool construction. Above-ground pools need a certain amount of flexibility to accommodate water movement and temperature changes.
It is also important is to make sure of the gauge of the walls! If the walls are not of at least 30 gauge, and have a deep corrugation (ridges in the wall) they not last as well.