Timing and Firing Orders

Did you mean "12V" (as in, 12 valve 6BT)? If so, 1-5-3-6-2-4If you're talking something like a 38 liter K-38T series marine diesels or VT-28 series fire engine pump systems, it's 1R-6L-5R-2L-3R-4L-6R-1L-2R-5L-4R-3L

For a Ford 351 cubic inch / 5.8 liter Windsor engine :

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8

The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces towards the REAR

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

On ALL 351 Ford V8s, regardless of year and engine family, the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. The distributor spins counter-clockwise and from above the engine, the cylinders are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4 on the passenger side from front to back and 5, 6, 7, 8 on the driver side from front to back.

I will try to explain in the simplest way. a) You need to know the cylinder nos first. Then Follow the spark plug lead from plug towards the distributor cap, mark that # on the distributor cap. b) next take off the distributor cap. c) rotate the engine slowly in correct direction (in which your engine rotates when it is running). d) now the rotar in your distributor with rotate too. Observe the order in which it passes by the spark plug lead. This is your firing order.

Sometimes it is cast right in the block of the engine in letters. Sometimes it is in the owners manual. It is usually in a shop mechanic book. You can also find your particular order online by make and model and year.

99 Mercury Mistake firing order is: 1-2-3-4 facing engine left to right on coil: top left 1 top right 3 bottom left 4 bottom right 2

look on thetop of the intake manifold

it's always there number hyphen

number hyphen so on

its not always there... but some times you get luck with that...

If you don't want to buy a manual for your vehicle which you can get at most auto parts stores now for around $9-$15, Most public libraries carry these books on the shelf or for those without home internet service, you can use theirs either free or very cheap.

Check out the following website link:

modeltech.tripod.com

This shows the engine firing order for each spark plug. The newer Distributor Caps have the spark plug number, so if you know which is number one on the distributor cap and on the engine, and so on, you are good as gold.

Also, when removing the existing wiring, you should also replace the distributor cap and rotor. It is usually a good idea every 50,000 miles.

The firing order of a 1992 Ford 351 V8 is as follows: Firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On the distributor,it goes counterclockwise (CCW). Passenger side is cylinders 1-2-3-4 (front to back). Driver side is 5-6-7-8 (front to back).

If you live in an area that has a local autozone you can call them up and they can give it to you. If you do not leave me your vehicles make model year and engine size and i will get it to you as fast as i can.

It is almost always stamped on the top of the intake manifold or on the engine block itself.

The quickest way to find the correct firing order without looking around the engine (especially dirty and oily engines) is to call your local auto parts dealer (Autozone, NAPA, etc.) and ask them. All you need is the general engine and car specs.

I have a 1993 Saturn SC2 Coupe, and got my wires mixed up when I was replacing them. I called AutoZone and the guy told me that the firing order is 4-1-3-2. I installed the wires in this order, started up the car, and it idled VERY roughly. I immediately shut it off and called a local Saturn dealership. The guy in the service department told me that the correct firing order is 4-1-2-3. I reconnected my wires and it started right up and idled perfectly. A word of caution: many times "the guys" at your local auto parts stores can point you in the right direction, but they are not necessarily the experts. If you ever have questions like the firing order, go straight to the source. Call the experts at the dealership for your car's make.

Depending on the type of engine you have specifically, the firing order will differentiate. For a 2.5L, 2.7L, 3.0L, and 3.5L V^ engine, the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

usually about 750 rpms for automatic trans and 650 rpm with a manual trans.and don't forget to disconnect and plug vacuum hose that goes to distributor advanceand timing for Chrysler runs normally about 16 degrees Before tdc.check under hood to see if it is listed on a sticker..

1-6-5-4-3-2

on the harmonic balancer the big pully in front of the motor it will be a line the timing marks are visible from the front of the engine looks like a saw

a 2.0 1.8 and a 2.2 is 1-2-3-4 distributor is front left 1 clock wise 2-3-4 2.8 3.1 for 86 87 front right counter clock wise 1-2-3-4 for earlier models v6 is left front to back 1-3-5 right 2-4-6 dis is by screw left 1 clock wise 2-3 and so on

well first off there is two ways to do it. the first and easiest is to pull the timing belt cover off. next is the daunting task of pulling the harmonic balancer. this will require the use of a special puller. the difference in this puller from other harmonic pullers is that this one has a rod (approx 1/4") that goes in the middle of the puller and pushes the rod and pulls the wheel. conventional pullers try to push the center out of the balancer, this WILL NOT work on a 420A motor. You will have to have this special puller, fortunately my snap-on guy had one that is now mine, but you could probably pick one up from NAPA for a couple hundred bucks. next you will need to set the crank, with the belt still on and tensioned, to where the mark on the crank lines up with the mark on the actual motor block. Now simply mark the camshafts with a hammer and chisle SO THAT YOU CAN LINE THEM UP LATER!!! You can now take loose your timing tensioner and proced with your work. reasseble and keep your marks lined up. if you FORGOT TO MARK YOUR CAM SPROCKETS, then you have a little work to do. (bet you won't forget again) the second way requires removing the cylinder head. first unbolt the timing belt cover, to do this you will need to remove the tentioner roller assembly (both rollers, one is stationary, one is mobile and is pushed by the tensioner) and you will have to remove the entire cylinder head. this is most easily done with the intake intact. second you will have to remove the coil packs and spark plug wires. remove the valve cover bolts using an 8mm socket. next remove the rocker arms with a 10mm socket. after that, remove the cylinder head bolts with a 15mm socket.(long ones go in the center, short ones on ends). now remove the cylinder head and take to a clean location for further disassembly. you will now need to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts, located on the front of each of the sprockets. you can do this by placing a pipe wrenh on the camshaft on one of the areas that has not been ground(the shiny part) DO NOT PUT WRENCH ON CAM LOBES, BIG BIG BIG BIG NO-NO NO-NO. break bolts on cam sprocket loose with an 18mm wrench. pull sprockets straight out, don't beat on them just wiggle and they will come out. now remove the camshaft pillar block bolts (ends first, then the centers). the blocks SHOULD be marked from the factory, if not, mark the position and direction so that each can be placed back the exact way it came out.( most have an arrow with an "f" poining to the front of the block, a "l" or "r" depending on the cam side and a number, to signify the position FROM the front. the seal housing/pillow block will be #1 on both sides and graduating as you go toward the back)take cyl head bolts out and store. you will need a permanant marker, good light and a torpedo level, yes a torpedo level. place the head on a relativly flat surface. put the level on it an check, doesn't have to be perfect but try to get it as close as possible. now take the camshaft and turn it by hand, It should turn pretty freely. (your rockers should already be off) now here is what i get paid the big bucks to do. if there is not a small set of notches in the sprockets (they would look like chips in the side), here is what you do. facing the front of the head take the LEFT camshaft and turn the key (the little round thing the sprocket shaft fits into) and place it in the down position. now position the level vertically (up and down) and gauge the CENTER the key and the sprocket hole perfectly vertical, so you will be actually covering up half of the holes with the level and half the key. MARK THE SHAFT AND THE BLOCK. this is Intake Dead Center and DO NOT move the camshaft. now we will set the Exhaust Dead Center. this is a little more tricky than intake so pay close attention. now facing the front of the head, take the RIGHT camshaft and position it much the same way you did the intake(left camshaft), but have the key in the up position. take the level and repeat the steps from before and get it in perfect vertical levelness. facing the front of the head, you should now see the left, or intake camshaft key in the down position, and the exhaust key in the up position. here is where it gets hairy. place the camshaft sprockets back on the the shafts, but don't bolt them in, now carefully look over the top of the head. pay particular attention to the position of the teeth of the sprockets to the top of the head. NOTE: the top of the head is simply a landmark as to where the position of the shafts are, using the teeth. take right (exhaust) cam and move it back 1/2 a tooth CCW (counter-clockwise).JUST THE RIGHT CAMSHAFT. using the method that i described above, level the right camshaft perfectly vertical. look at the teeth in realtionship to the top of the head they BOTH should be in a valley of one of the teeth. if the left(intake) is not in a valley, then rotate it CCW until it is in a valley. now mark the position of the shafts, without moving them, in the inside area of the camshaft sprockets. take sprockets off and lay on a hard surface. lay them side by side, lining up the marks you made in the previous step. now take a hammer and a chisle and make a little mark on you sprockets so you dont have to do this all over again. 2ndNOTE: when you lay the sprockets down, the writing on the one on the left should be right-side-up, the left, up-side-down. now if you are really good you can take and line the sprockets up perfectly, ignoring the marks for now, and while they are laying flat and rotate them both CCW simultaniously 1 TOOTH, the marks you made with the chisle/marker should line up, if not go back a check your steps with the ones in this guide. again, both the camshaft sprockets should have a tooth valley flush with the top of the cyl head. and the camshafts should not look to intersect. do notphysially do it, but imagine if you where to put them together that they would be ridge to ridge, valley to valley you have a timing belt that will be turning them so dont worry about trying to get them interesting, they aren'yt suppose to! reassembly is the revers of disasembly, and i will not dare to utter that again, but do make sure you pick up a haynes book for all of you torque specs, especially for you cyl head and pillow blocks. sorry this s.o.b was so long but you can save some time by marking the timing before you began work, i just have a problem with people bringing me cars that have popped timing belts, so i make pretty good money doing this very procedure. trust me, the factory doesn't want you to know this!!!!

1-3-4-2 Distributor rotates clockwise.

1-3-4-2

1 3 4 2

Firing order ( 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 ) on your 4.9 L / 300 cubic inch straight 6 cylinder

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces AWAY from the engine

The engine cylinders are numbered 1 to 6 , from front to rear

Initial timing is set by aligning the crank with the 0 mark and aligning the distributor rotor with the line on the pick up plate. The distributor is then synced with a scan tool. It is set to exactly 0 degrees to match the crank sensor. This can no be done with a timing light.

Initial timing is set by aligning the crank with the 0 mark and aligning the distributor rotor with the line on the pick up plate. The distributor is then synced with a scan tool. It is set to exactly 0 degrees to match the crank sensor. This can no be done with a timing light.

The firing order is as follows: cyl1--cyl3--cyl4--cyl2.............(1,3,4,2)

CC stands for "cubic centimeters". When referring to engines, it represents the total amount of air (volume) that the pistons displace from bottom to top of stroke. Motorcycles engines are normally rated in CC's.

Most car motors are measured in liters. Since there are 1000 cubic centimeters in a liter, a 3.8 liter motor is sometimes called a 3800 and vice versa.

To convert cubic centimeters to cubic inches, divide cc's by 16.39.

Firing sequence is as follows 1 5 3 6 2 4 Distributor rotates clockwise

On the 4.9 L ( 300 cubic inch ) straight 6 cylinder The spark plug firing order is ( 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 ) The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE The distributor cap is installed with the marked # 1 position facing AWAY from the engine

2.2L 1-3-4-2

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

set the flywheel to T. Intake dots should be a 12 and 9 exhaust 12 and 9 but one tooth advanced (turned clockwise).

I need to know the timing marks for when I put both the cam shafts back on and the head torque specifications for a 1997 KIA Sportage, two wheel drive.

1-3-4-2