Timing and Firing Orders

The firing order for the 1951 Ford custom engine is 1, 5, 4, 8, 6, 3, 7, 2. This is the 239 Flathead V8 engine.

1994 Plymouth Laser was not made firing order is 1 3 4 2 for the 1.8L engine

The spark plug firing order is ( 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 ) The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered : passenger side of engine , front to rear , 1 , 2 , 3 -----drivers side of engine , front to rear , 4 , 5 , 6 The COIL PACK TOWERS are numbered : coil---3---4 pack--2---6 plug---1---5

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
It's imprinted on the intake manifold.

It is 1-2-3-4-5-6

Easy one to remember 1-2-3-4-5-6

If you look carfuly on the intake manifold you will find the firing order,sometimes you will find it on the engine sticker. Also on a "V" type motor the cylender head that is the furtherest foward is the #1 cylender.

This engine is severely out of time or the spark plug wires are hooked up incorrectly. Check the link I am posting.

The firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4.

n 98 to 2002 Kia Sportage models ( all equipped with the DOHC 16V 2.0 liter 4 cylinder motor ) these are the instructions for the timing belt replacement.

1. Take all frontal pieces off, inculding fan, fan pully bracket, all belts ( A/C, power steering, and alternator ), thermostat housing and and hoses, fan shroud, then crank pully ( 6 - 10MM bolts around a large 21MM center bolt, don't worry about the center bolt, the pully will come off after removing the 6 outer bolts ) then the belt covers, both top and bottom.

2. Once you have access to the belt and with the crank pully removed you will see a small woodruff key on the nub shaft that protrudes from the crank cog. Align that to a 12 o' clock position. This key is what fits in the notch on the crank pully, ignore the small square marking on one of the cog teeth, it is useless.

3. After aligning the woodruff key to the 12 o' clock position make sure your intake came ( left side cam ) is aligned properly, you will know this when you see the "I" on the cog in the twelve o' clock position and aligned with a small marking or "dent" that sits immediately above the cog on the belt backing plate. If it is not aligned there turn the crank another 180 degrees and it should be.

4. Check your exhaust cam the same way as step 3.

5. Now with everything aligned loosen the tensioner nut and pry it to the left with a small crowbar or long screw driver or something elongated. When the tensioner pully is pushed as far as it will go to the left, tighten the nut. This will make it much easier to get the belt off and on.

5. Take the belt off, you may have to work it off with a screw driver or it may simply come off by hand if it is worn well enough. Dont be alarmed if your cams move or snap out of position, it is not a big deal as long as you make sure the crank cog stays put and the engine isn't turned over.

6. Now comes the slightly tougher part, if you got lucky your cams will not have moved, if not then you will have to fiddle around with their alignment and have someone hold them aligned with two 17MM wrenches or something while you reinstall the belt.

7. After installing the belt make sure your alignment marks are set, the "I" on the intake ( left cam ) at 12 o' clock and facing the small dent on the timing cover backing plate and the "E" on the exhaust ( right cam ) aligned the same way as well and your crank cog marking ( woodruff key ) aligned to 12 o' clock and facing the small notch on the front of the block immediately behind the crank cog. There is also, most times, a small plate on the back of the crank cog that has a beveled notch in it and should be aligned with the woodruff pin, the two parts ( cog and plate ) are one part and move together so if you align the woodruff key at 12 o' clock, the notch should be aligned as well. Now might be a good time to disconnect your battery to allow the cam sensor to reset, it may not be necessary but its better safe than sorry.

8. With all the cogs aligned loosen the tensioner bolt and let it slide back to put tension on the new belt, you may wish to place a small pry bar behind the tensioner to move it to the right a bit and make sure it has tightened the belt securely. Once the tensioner has been moved and the belt securely tight, tighten the bolt once again to hold the tensioner.

9. Turn the engine over a few times using a ratchet and 21 MM socket on the end of the crank cog, making sure to stop the crank after every second revolution and when the woodruff key is aligned at the twelve o' clock position. Then check your markings, making sure they are still aligned, if not, refer back to step 6.

10. After you have made absolutely sure everything is aligned properly, turn the crank until the "E" on the exhaust cam ( right cam ) is aligned at the 12 o' clock position and aligned with the small dent on the belt backing plate. Then turn the engine clockwise until the "S" on the exhaust cog is facing that same dent on the backing plate.

11. Now you may plug all of your water passages and hoses, reconnect your battery, and though it is not advised but sometimes necessary, start the engine. Do not let it run long however, just long enough to make sure everything is running smoothly. If all is well, shut the engine down and make sure the belt is on the pulleys securely and that everything is still aligned as said in step 9, if not, refer back to step 6.

12. Now that everything is running well you may reverse the procedure and put everything back together. After reinstalling everything and starting the engine you may notice a tapping under the valve cover, do not be alarmed however, that is just lifter bleed down from the cams being turned over with no oil pressure. Simply drive the vehicle a few miles and it will eventually go away.

I hope this relieves the pressure on some of you that are trying to find the right way to do this, I have done it this way and I know it works, plus i have the schematics. If you have any questions feel free to post on this topic and ask away, I should be able to answer everything you need.

would not perform step 11 and if everything is properly aligned it is not necessary anyway. Simply perform step 9 with manual rotation of the engine. This is all the shop manual recommends.

Depends on the year. For 3.1L Luminas built 1994 & older with the coil pack located under the exhaust manifold. The firing order is 1,4,6,3,2,5. For 3.1L Luminas 1995 & newer with the coil pack located on top of the motor. The firing order is 5,2,3,6,4,1.

2.5 Liter 4 cylinder is 1-3-4-2 4.3 Liter V6 is 1-6-5-4-3-2

What size engine? V6 --1-6-5-4-3-2 V8--1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Dist.rotates clockwise. or look on the intake manifold under, air cleaner.

1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 --------------------------------------------------------------------- The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered : passenger side of engine , front to rear , 1 , 2 , 3 drivers side of engine , front to rear , 4 , 5 , 6 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ The COIL PACK TOWERS are numbered : coil------3----4 pack-----2----6 plug------1----5

1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

8th digit of your vin code denotes engine

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8

if a 1990 is the same as a 1991 your firing order is located on the thotle body and should be 1-2-3-4-5-6 as you stand on the passenger side looking at the motor #1 will be on your left # 2 will be on the right then back to the left and right the right side of the motor is #2 #4 #6 on the left is #1 #3 #5 your distributor is also numbered hope this answers your ? Or: http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/

1-6-5-4-3-2-