Timing and Firing Orders

from what I know through just working on cars with my dad who used to stock car race a long time ago, and buying crappy cars and fixing them up, I know that you have to:

loosen the ditributer cap and turn it left or right depending on what kind of idle you are getting(lean or rich burn). You can check this by checking your spark plugs. If it is not a golden dark brown then it is not burning correctly. Dark plugs means it is running to rich and clean plugs means it is running to lean and there is blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Note, I don't know which way to turn the distributor but don't turn it left or right more than an incrument to prevent missfiring and possibly burning a hole through the piston.

A chalk and some timing light would be useful and handy. The timing should be located on the door i think.

I just did this today on my 92. There's no info in the most popular manual. The "right" way seems to involve removing the bolt from the motor mount on top of the engine. You may need to loosen the other bolt to get it to swing out of the way. Then, there are four bolts holding the mount to the engine. Well, actually, the lower two appear to be exhaust manifold studs. There's also a bolt that attaches to a strut supporting the drivebelt accessories. So, you need to remove that first, then remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the top of the engine, then remove the nuts from the exhaust manifold studs. There's also a heat shield over the manifold with another bracket behind it, if I recall correctly. If, like me, you have consumer-grade hand tools, you might not want to risk stripping or breaking the studs. I wound up removing the coil pack. First, remove the wiring harness that faces you - 7mm bolt. Then, three nuts on the bottom that mount it to the bracket. 11mm if I recall correctly. Lift the unit straight up and set it in a safe location nearby. Then, the plastic cover can be removed if you cut the boots off the old wires. There are two tabs you can't see at the bottom, and it sits on three T-shaped mounts. Carefully work it loose, then slide it up over the rocker cover until you can remove it. Not much room at all. OK, now lift the tab on the right side and the cover will come off. Pull the old wires out. See how they are run in channels? You can't slide them to adjust the length. There's also no clearance to put the #1 cable in place with the cover on. I just left it off. It was doing a fine job trapping oil and soaking the old wires. To reinstall, first put the #1 cable roughly in position. You won't have enough clearance to put it in the plastic cover first. Then, place #5 in the top groove and #3 in the middle groove. Make sure #3 boot is left of the oil filler tube and #5 is on the right. Also make sure the wires are in front of the two tabs on the bottom. Carefully replace the plastic guide and place the #1 wire in its groove. Fun, huh? You could also just cut the old wires off at the plastic sleeve and use some wire looms to separate the new wires, making sure that they do not contact the manifold or have any chance of getting caught in the fan. I might do that next time. Thanks, GM, for making yet another basic maintenance task a major pain for us backyard mechanics.

actually, the motors are 100% different. therefore, i wouldn't suspect anything to be the same. but im pretty sure the firing order on both is 1-3-4-2 for future references: http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-mitsubishi-firing-97.htm

IN-LINE? WHAT MODEL CHEVY? The 1992 Chevy 4.3 Liter is a V6 and not an inline 6. The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2

Yes, it is a non-interference engine.

counterclockwise

1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2

Hope that helps

coil----3---4 pack---2---6 plug----1---5

The spark plug firing order is ( 1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8 )

The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the REAR and slightly towards the drivers side

The engine cylinders / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front

jaguar x type timing marks

It is 1-3-4-2 Joe Position of wires for a 1996 S10 2.2L on coils from bottom to top 4-1-3-2 on motor front to fire wall 1-2-3-4

If you are asking about when you change the timing belt, go to www.teamzx2.com, there is a walkthru in the Knowledge base section.

the crank must be set to TDC and the cams also

Added how-to link to related links below.

I just went through this myself. The manual is wrong. A tsb is out but doesn't explain it all. this is what you do.

this is not an interferance head, so doesnt matter where the timing marks are set to start. Remove and install the belt. get it all adjusted, then set the lower crank timing mark to tdc. Place a 15/16 wrench on the intake cam, hold tight and loosen the gear mount bold so the gear if free to move. Hold a 1" wrench on the exhause cam. Remove the oil plug, Hold the wrench tight and loosen the gear bolt so its free to move. Rotake each cam with the wrench so the timing tool fits in the slots at the end of the cam. Once the alinging tool is in both the exhaust and the intake cam slots. re check that your crank timing mark is still at tdc. Both cam gears are still loose so you can reset the crank timing mark if it moved. Now hold the intake cam with the 15/16 wrench, Tighted gear bold to 50lbs. Hold the exhaust cam with the 1" wrench. Tighten the cam gear bold to 80lbs. Install the oil end plug. Crank engine to build oil pressure in the exhause cam gear. Place the crank timing mark at tdc. Place cam timing tool back in the slots, Loosen the exhaust gear mount bold, reset exhaust cam sothe alignment tool fits again. Tighten exhaust gear to 80lbs. Good to go. I tried it like the book said, then by the tsb. this way works. Good luck

Connect timing light to battery and No. 1 cylinder and aim light at crankshaft Connect timing light to battery and No. 1 cylinder and aim light at crankshaft timing marks

fireing order 1996 Lincoln town car

The firing order on all aircooled VW engines is 1-4-3-2. The word "Zundfolge" stamped on the generator-stand casting means "firing order."

Click the link and do not worry that the diagram is of a 1982 as it is exactly like your 1979.

The spark plug firing order is ( 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 ) on your Ford 300 cubic inch /

4.9 liter straight six cylinder

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces AWAY from the engine

The engine cylinders are numbered 1 to 6 , from front to rear

firing order for a 1995 ford bronco 5.8 ltr

This should be done by an expert with the proper tools. Severe damage can be done to the engine if it is done incorrectly.

With a Spark plug gap tool :)

The firing order of the 75 302 is 15426378

1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

This is supposed to be done every 60,000 miles on these cars because if it breaks then it screws up all this other stuff in the engine. I've never done it to mine and it's a 1984 turbo 300zx. I worry about it though but I can't afford to have someone else do it ( I was quoted $900. by one garage) and i think it would be a major ordeal to do on my own. It's not rocket science though and anyone with a tool set and common sense should be able to figure it out.It would seem to be a weekend job. Something that would take many many hours but it would be og great sasisfaction for many to do such a job without taking it to a shop.You will save many many hundreds of dollars doing it on your own.

There is a Nissan place in Richardson,TX that sells the kit which includes the thermostat, belts and water pump i think. Google Courtesy Nissan and call them.

You could also get a Haynes manual 1984 through 1989 for the 300zx to help out with pix and all.It's not really hard to change the timing belt on a 300ZX, but make sure you get it right. You also should consider replacing the water pump at the same time because if it goes bad, you'll have to do the job all over again. Same for the tensioner, if it breaks you're out an engine. I'd recommend changing it every other belt change. Also get the tensioner stud if you're changing the tensioner, it'll probably have to be ordered at most dealers. There's not much sense in putting a new tensioner on with an old heat stressed stud is there? The timing belt doesn't turn the water pump, but if the pump leaks, the water will leak into the timing belt cover and rapidly degrade the belt. Trust me, it's cheap insurance. You also should replace the front main oil seal at the same time, and both cam seals. If they starts leaking, it won't hurt anything, it's just a pain to disassemble everything just to change the oil seal later. The passenger side cam seal for some reason has a tendancy to go bad before the other one. You will need this stuff: Timing belt(~$30), and water pump (around $40) , Oil seal(~$5-$10), and the crank timing spricket key($0.50), also consider changing the thermostat($8 for a Nissan one, which is the only one you should use). Also make sure you have all appropriate gaskets, etc. The water pump should come with a gasket, the thermostat gasket is a dollar or so. This is all that is needed to change the timing belt/water pump on an early 300ZX:

Remove fan, radiator shroud, all engine belts, the crank pulley, the A/C idler pulley, the timing belt cover, the spark plugs, and anything else in the way.remove water pump and replace with a new one, do this first so you don't spill coolant all over the new belt.Turn the engine over by hand until the marks on all three pulleys are close to the marks on the rear timing belt covers. May take a few minutes. The location of the marks on the old belt(If you can still see them) is totally unimportant. This is important: The purpose of setting the engine in this position prior to removing the old belt is so that the engine will be in the "alignment" position to accept the new belt. Once the old belt is off, you can't rotate the engine. If you remove the belt without putting the engine in this position you'll have no way to verify that the timing is correct once the new belt is on.Loosen the tensioner and remove the belt.If replacing oil seals:Hold the cam sprockets still and unbolt them, remove the sprockets and replace the cam seals. natrally, replace the sprockets and torque to specs. It is easiest to place the car in 5th gear, with the old belt on and simply unbolt the cam pulleys. Only break the bolts lose, then remove the pulleys and belt at the same time. When torqueing the pulley bolts, put the old belt on to avoid stressing the new one. If you have an automatic or if the engine is out of the car, you'd better have air tools, or do it this way: Cut the old belt into one long piece. Wrap it around the cam pulley and hold the pulley with a chain wrench, removing the bolt with a wrench. Do the same when reinstalling the cam pulleys. There are no lips behind the cam seals, so if you tap them in too far, they will just pop inside the heads, requiring lots of disassembly to remove. Tap the right(passenger)) side seal until it is flush with the metal surface or slightly below(no more than a couple mm), and the left(driver) side seal until it is flush with the smallest diameter of the taper, you'll know what I mean when you take it apart and look at it.Pry the crank sprocket off the crank, it will be very tight, you will probably have to destroy the thin metal guide plate behind the sprocket, but you will replace it with the new one you special ordered from Nissan. Replace the seal, and install the new metal plate, the NEW sprocket key, and the sprocket with anti-sieze compound on the inside of it. Do not, under any circumstances, hammer a prying device behind the sprocket or you may break the oil pump housing, which is bad.Installing the new belt with the marks on the belt directly adjacent to the marks on the pulleys, noting that new belt has has a front and rear facing edge.Double check your installation. Now triple check it, and check a fourth time. You must be absolutely sure you put the belt on right or your engine will be destroyed when you start it, no second chances, get it right!!Check installation of belt again.Turn the engine over by hand a few times to ensure that nothing interferes. (Note: After you turn the engine over, it takes a few thousand revolutions until the marks on belt and pulleys line up again, do not worry if you are absolutely sure of the timing. If you have any doubts at all, go back to step 3.)Adjust the belt tension according to the shop manual. This may take a few tries, but take your time. The tension has a large impact on belt life.Replace all removed Items, and start engine.(replace the 2 inch water hose between the thermostat housing and metal coolant pipe right behind the fan now, they have a very, very bad habit of leaking)

TIPS:Before you take off the timing belt, the engine must be in the correct position to accept the new belt. Turn it with a wrench until the notch in the oil pump housing is in line with the dot on the crankshaft belt sprocket. The camshaft sprockets will align with two very small dots stamped into the rear timing belt cover. The passenger side camshaft is very unstable in this position, if it gets turned either direction even a small amount, it will snap about 1/4 turn more, nothing will hit, just get a wrench on the sprocket bolt and turn the camshaft back. It would be very advisable to change the crankshaft oil seal now too. Get the small plate that goes between the crank sprocket and the oil pump housing from the dealer before you begine, because it's very likely that it'll get destroyed in trying to remove the crank sprocket. I'd also recommend that you change the timing belt tensioner at this time. I've heard horror stories about it seizing up. Cheap insurance. Examine the water pump closely now too, it's behind there and is a pain to replace just because it went 10k miles after you changed the timing belt. Also take care of your fan clutch, they are very, very expensive, like ~$200. I would also recommend clean the contacts on the cylinder head temperature sensor, as it is extremely easy to do with the timing belt covers off GOOD LUCK!!!!

1. Before pulling the timing belt make certain you mark the belt (I use tape) the out side edge of the belt & reinstall the same way otherwise you will get excessive wear on the belt do to a different wear pattern.

2. The best bet is invest in a new belt $25 - 30. The time it takes to gain access to it is more than worth the cost. Cheap insurance plus timing belts are recommended to be replace around 40 - 50 K miles on any OHC engine. Reinstalling a worn belt increase that chance of the belt breaking then your pistons try to eat the close clearance valves - then get out the bigger check book.

3. Once you have installed the new belt and have triple check you are at TDC on #1 cylinder in the compression stroke and both cams are properly aligned - see opposite end of cam shafts - each has a slot - you should be able place a .020" thick (it must be .020" no close to it but on the $$) straight edge into both slots - if not adjust accordingly.

If all oK - take a permanent marker and mark one tooth on the back side of each cam gear that is closest to the valve cover seat and almost directly opposit each other. This way you will know where TDC on your next visit to this part of the engine.

After you pull the old timing belt along with the lower serpentine pulley from the crank shaft. Pull the #1 sparkplug.Then insert a straw into the cylender.Reinstall the pulley bolt into the crankshaft and turn clockwise til the piston tops out.Then sit back down and look at the end of the crankshaft the keyway shold be at a 90 degree angle from the seam between the oil pan and the block.Now that the crank shaft is at top dead center.Remove the valve cover and observe the cam lobes on the forward cam over the #1 cylender thease are your exaust valves and should be positioned in a manner so that if the shaft were to be turned clockwise thay would open. The rear shaft is the intake side and the lobes shold be positioned so the valves would have just closed.Now look at the drivers side of the engin at the ends of the shafts the slots should be level with the head and Bobs your uncle your in time. install your belt.