Computer? Yeah, who needs it. It's only the heart and soul of your entire car. You can ditch the computer if you remove the entire intake and put on a carburetor, remove all the emission control components (remember to plug all the holes or you'll lose engine vacuum and that's BAD) and fabricate and install a manual fuel pump. Then replace the entire ignition system with an old "points" system that you'll have to replace every 3000 miles. (oh yeah, you'll have to tune that carburetor every year too). Have fun!
, please help me . and answer this Question what grade oil should i ues in my 1990 Toyota manual transmisssion 5 speed box.
any trans fluid .. ATF .. per book
You buy a wiring harness for your vehicle from circuit city or crutchfield or some place like that. Worse thing you can possibly do is start cutting/crimping wires. That way if you ever get rid of your car you can put the factory radio in easily. Cutting and crimping increases your chances of frying your radio or even worse... your cars electrical system. Crimps can come off/wires can short...
A harness could cost $15-$35, but it will make your install much faster and pretty much plug and play... you wont regret using the harness method.
Not to flame the guy about the lightbulb testing method... but having bare wires especially hot ones... no matter how careful you think you are... is probably the worst thing you could do. Even if you were careful not to fry anything... it still is only going to give you +12,ACC,NEG... its not going to tell you antenna, mute, illumination, or give you the speaker locations and correct polarity. A speaker will work wired in reverse polarity, but if you have another in correct polarity... you get cancellation.
If you are anti-harness... buy a $10 multimeter from radio shack. with that you can at least get voltages, impendence, and continunity.... sure beats a lightbulb.
what u can do is get a light bulb from a flash light with a positive and negative wire in order to find the ground, power, accessorie
Left Color is Toyota's Color Sheme for 87 up and right color is typical stereo
Right Front Speaker (+) Green ---Gray Left Front Speaker (+) Pink--- White +12 Volt Ignition Wire Gray--- Red +12 Volt Battery Wire Blue w/ Yellow Stripe ----Yellow Right Front Speaker (-) Blue--- Gray w/ Black Stripe Left Front Speaker (-) Purple ----White w/ Black Stripe Ground Wire Brown(maybe Black..try Brown first)---- Black Power Antenna Wire 1 ?? -- -- Blue (join wires 1 & 2 Power Antenna Wire 2 together to this blue wire)
Right Rear Speaker (+) Red----Purple Left Rear Speaker (+) Black (might have two blacks, look at thickness of wire smaller thickness should be the speaker)---- Green Right Rear Speaker (-) White -----Purple w/ Black Stripe Left Rear Speaker (-) Yellow ------Green w/ Black Stripe
Try www.installdr.com for wiring diagrams on stereos. I used it on my 1987 Camry wagon, made installing a CD/mp3 deck easy!
I used 3m tape (trim tape) to resecure the window, and It worked great for about 2 months till it got hot out then window came out again. the window is heat sealed to the top and is not repairable you must replace the top. mine cost $950.00 and they found that the frame was cracked and had to be sent out to be welded total cost $1150.00
I have a 1996 Pontiac firebird, and the rear glass separated from the top, i found a product from GE called silicone II, this is a very strong and sturdy glue for wet and dry applications, i first used it in my washing machine water drum, so far it has been 2 years since the repair, i used this same product on my convertible top and it works wonderfully, ensure the area is cleaned and oil free i used isotone to clean the surface, then u apply a steady line of GE silicone II to the actual material itself and mate it up to the glass and let it set over night for best results, let dry in shade, let your top down about 1/4 of the way to leave some slack in the top this product comes in a 2.8 oz tube, at a cost of 22.95 per tube. so far so good been 9 months since the repair
You can definatly reglue the back glass on your corvette. A product used for installing windshields called " Urethane" will work for it, it is much stronger than silicone, however it is extremly messy. Dont get any on the top, because you wont get it off! I own a auto glass and trim shop.
Have a '03 Corvette Convertible and did the following:
1.Clean surface, unlock the top and place a 2" spacer to relieve stress on window interface.
2.Apply thin coat of 3M Glass Primer [08682 or 08681] to the glass area to be glued -10 min dry time.
3.Apply 3/16" bead of 3M Windo-Weld adhesive 10.5 oz tube  over primer - Press the surface of the top around the window to provide a good contact and extrude excess adhesive.
4.Prop up the window from inside the car to provide good contact between the glass and top - this is important. I also placed some duct tape in a few locations at the window top interface to assist in holding the top to glass. Cover top to protect from rain - leave top unlocked with spacer.
5. I let it cure for 3 days because of my outdoor weather conditions, but the curing conditions [Temp/RH] can be found on the 3M Web Site.
6. Carefully clean excess adhesive with razor blade.
7. Cost about $25. Materials can be ordered online or at a body shop supplies retailer
Most likely bad solanoid/starter unit. Super cheap and easy to fix. could also be the clutch pin on top of the clutch pedal if that is corroded or broken the car wouldn't start either, shouldn't be too difficult to replace. I had a problem with this once. Turns out it was the antitheft system... Take the car out of gear, set E-brake. Take a heavy gauge wire and attach it to the "hot" contact bolt on the starter. Then touch the other end of the wire to the positive battery post. Did it turn over? Then it isn't the starter. Although it could still be the solenoid. Could also be the ignition switch if not the starter relay, the clutch switch or the anti-theft. Are you using a copied key or the original? I am assuming you hear no sound when key is turned. Do you have to have brake pedal depressed to start vehicle? Then add brake switch -unless brake lights work....Have you had any work done lately? Is the wire from the ignition switch unplugged by accident?
There may be a wire from the sensor that is loose or grounding incorrectly. Open your doors and u should see a Little button on the inside frame. Check all these for all the doors to find the culprit
5 x 100mm, + 39mm offset.
Try the website www.the12volt.com it is a car audio website but has wiring diagrams for all vehicles. Hope it helps
In the fuel tank
There are two sockets for a 2000 Celica. The top halogen bulb is for the low beam. The bottom halogen bulb is for the high beam. This vehicle uses both bulbs lit together to generate the "high" beams.
Warning... Touching a bulb with your hand drastically shortens the life of the bulb. Halogen bulbs get extremely hot. They can generate second and third degree burns very quickly. Be extremely careful to avoid touching the bulb by accident.
I will walk you through the low beam replacement on the DRIVERS side.
1; Disconnect the electrical plug on the rear of the bulb. Simply pull the wire harness plug straight back.
2; Remove the round rubber protector that surrounds the bulb in its housing.
3; Securing the bulb assembly in its housing is a stainless steel spring clip. To release the clip you must press the end towards the front portion of the vehicle, and then push it up. The clip is captive in place by a Phillip's screw. Once the clip is released the specially designed base along with the bulb will easily be removed.
4; Pull the burned out bulb off of it's base and discard it.
5; Remove the new bulb from it's packaging with either a clean glove or a paper towel. Install it into the special base. Human body oils must not be left on the bulb.
6; Reinstall the base and bulb assembly back into the head light housing. It will only fit correctly one way. Rotate the bulb and base unit until it seats in place. The metal prongs for the wire harness should be side by side NOT one over the other.
7; Re install the stainless steel spring clip. This is a bit difficult do to the fact you have limited space to work. It is the opposite of the removal process. Push the clip forward and then down into it's notch.
8; Re install the rubber boot. It has one tab which is labeled "Top".
9; Re install the wire harness on the metal tabs and test your work.
The PASSENGER side head light assembly is underneath a plastic cover. The cover must be removed before you can service the head light bulbs.
The cover is held in place by plastic rivets. To remove the rivets you must gently push the center swedge pin through each rivet. Caution must be taken to capture the swedge pin of each rivet. After pushing the swedge pin through the rivet can be removed. These rivets must be saved for re installation.
To re install simply replace the plastic cover, line up the cover with the holes. Place the rivet in the hole and then install the center swedging pin.
The High beam bulb is not held in place with a spring clip. It does not have a protective rubber boot either. To remove either the drivers side or the passengers side high beam bulb simply grab the wire harness and twist it counter clockwise. The bulb assembly will remain attached to its wire harness. Remove the burned out bulb. Install the new bulb. Insert bulb assembly into the headlight housing. It will only line up one way. Gently twist the assembly until you feel it settle into place. Then continue to turn it clockwise until you feel it lock in place. Test your work.
There should be an auto tension device. It is not adjustable. Usually at 60k miles you replace the serpentine belt, and usually you'll want to replace the tensioner as well. If tension is a problem, make sure it's the right belt, and if so - replace the tensioner.
2000/2001 BELT TENSIONER
There is a simple fix to this issue and I've run across the answer on a message board about a year ago, and when implemented by the Toyota mechanics there were amazed that the issue was fixed in less than a minute when their consideration was to purchase a new belt tensioner assembly at $350 bucks for the entire assembly.
NOW, you going to hate me for this but I cannot remember what the fix was. It had something to do with either tightening the Tensioner Pulley, or Tensioner Bold or some adjustment to hydraulic cylinder or flange. I'm sorry for the loss of memory, I should have wrote it down, cause the fix lasted 1.5 years and I have 120K on my Celica.
NOW if anyone knows what the funk I'm talking about, please fill me in, because the squeak is back and they are offering the same solution to purchase the assembly kit.
Alright. I just changed the Serpentine belt on my wife's 2001 Celica GT. Here are fairly detailed instructions on how to do it. USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
First. There are six pulleys on the passenger side of the motor. They are arranged almost like the diamonds (or whatever) on a 6 of diamonds playing card with the two in the center being set closer together than the top and bottom pairs. SO get a piece of paper and draw six circles on it like this. I am going to use numbers to help explain how the belt is routed.
2) alternator (1 power steering
tensioner pulley 3) (4 water pump
crank (5 6) A/C
The parenthesees show which direction the belt goes around the pulley.
Second, Take off the right side plastic cowling by popping out four plastic studs. Use a flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry them out. You may even be able to reach under and push a locking pin out of them. It is the dot in the center of the button head. Just push it straight out.
Third, Take off the top cowl from the head. It has two 10mm cap nuts and two plastic studs. They are not the same as the passenger side cowl studs. Just carefully pry them out with a plastic screwdriver. You will damage the cowling less if you pry under the cowl, not the buttons.
Fourth, Use an 18mm box wrench to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner(About 6 inches behind the tensioner pulley). Push on the belt and you will notice that it has loosened some. Use the handle of a hammer to push harder on it and it will loosen a little more. Pry the belt off the alternator pulley and the rest will be pretty easy.
Fifth, Start routing the belt around the back three pulleys. Get it under pulleys 5(crank pulley) and 6(air conditioner compressor) with the ribs facing up. Loop it so that the flat side of the belt goes around pulley 3(Tensioner pulley). Then snake it around pulley 1(power steering) with the ribs facing the pulley. Move to the front of the motor. Bring the belt up and around pulley 4(Water pump)Bring up all remaining slack to the alternator pulley (6) Now holding the belt with one hand, make sure the belt has not fallen off the pulleys and adjust as neccesary.
Now take a 19MM box wrench and put it on the adjuster lug(about two inches forward of the bolt you loosened) on the tensioner assembly and pull toward the front of the car. At the same time, wiggle and pull and tug the belt onto the alternator pulley. You may need to put the box end of your 18mm wrench over the front lug of the open end of the 19mm to extend the 19mm so that you have leverage to pull it forward. Once the belt is on the alternator pulley, let the 19mm wrench back off. it will feel spring loaded. The belt will tighten and snug itself down to the pulleys. Then just tighten the 18mm bolt back up and check your work. Start the car to make sure it is on properly. Replace your cowls.
In the last post, the parentheses are wrong around the 1 and the 2. This is correct. (1 2), 3) (4 , (5 6) Sorry, Chris.
just take it to a garage.
Size is 35.
it costs like 80 bucks,and when u bring old battery -you get $12 back.If u have high mileage just take 26R-VL
as long as they dont hit anything (like the windshield frame or each other) put on anything you like, your vision may not be as good though!
TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, USA, INC.
Timing Belt Maintenance
Question What maintenance is required on Toyota timing belt?
Answer If the vehicle is 1999 or newer and is equipped with a timing belt, you should replace it every 90,000 miles or six years, whichever comes first. For all other Toyota vehicles equipped with a timing belt, it is recommended that the belt be checked with the other drive belts at 60,000 miles or four years, whichever comes first, and every 15,000 miles thereafter and replaced if necessary. Because inspection may cost about as much as replacement, many customers may find it more cost effective to replace the timing belt at 60,000 mile intervals.
If the timing belt breaks while the vehicle is being driven, severe engine damage could result. The higher the speed, the more extensive the damage could be.
For additional questions, refer to your Scheduled Maintenance Guide or Owner�s Manual Supplement or contact your local Toyota dealership.AnswerThe 2001 Celica GTS using a timing chain and shouldn't have to be replaced for at least 120,000 miles.
dont just die
5 speeds dont need trany fluid. lloll
To remove the pump you may notice a hole bored in the pully itself. The bolts are behind the pulley so you use a socket and ratchet thru this hole to remove the trapped fasteners (3 or 4). Remove the belt first. The first thing you will need is a power steering pulley removal/installation kit. The pump you will get from the store will be without a pulley and possibly without a reservior. You may also see two white plastic washers in a small glasine bag. These will need to be soaked in water and gently stretched to fit over the threaded end of the high pressure power steering line, 1 per line. The reservior may have a rubber o-ring and a small bolt replace any orings. Assemble your pump on the bench, stripping the pulley and reservior off the old pump and install on the new pump. Save the old pump you may get money back at the store for it. Any autozone will have a pwr steer pump pulley removal kit.
It is mildew. Pour chlorine bleach down the intake vents in front of the windshield (where the screens are) you should raise the hood to access them. When you are finished, (let it sit) rinse with water. Fluids SHOULD pour out of drain hose (poking thru the firewall) from the evaporater box under the dash. ***A cautionary note for using bleach, please make sure that you dilute the mixture with at least 50% water, and do not be in the vehicle if the system is running or shortly after applying the bleach (bleach is obviously caustic and the fumes can be very dangerous to humans and pets). You could also use a spray from Toyota parts department made for this...
The max setting for the Air Conditioning utilizes internal air only, so think of where your feet are located (directly at the internal inlet port for the system), so if your feet smell like vinegar, etc. A solution is to spray disinfectant of choice directly into the upper dash vents with the system off and or to spray into the outside inlet ports at the bottom of the windshield with the system running and the outside airflow button selected.
Your vehicle may also have a charcoal filter for purifying the internal air, it may need to be changed, as well.
Open and read your owner's manual I don't have one, pls post better answer. You said manual for fusebox. That is in your owners manual. You never said you didn't have one. You need an owners manual for more than just finding the fuse box display. You need it to know when to do scheduled maintenance on certain items. Sources are Dealer, Salvage Yard, and many on-line sources. Type "automobile owners manual" into a search engine. You will find many sources. You may even find an on-line owners manual. GM has these but not sure about Toyota.
Very simple. Shops charge by the hour for half shaft replacement, so hours are high.
On Toyotas, much like Hondas, removal is fairly easy. Jack up the front end, secure with jack stands and remove the tires. Put a drift in the fins of the rotor through the caliper. Loosen the half shaft bolt. Remove the calipers and tie them off so that the hoses do not stretch or get in a bind. Remove the caliper mounting bracket. Remove the tie rod nut and separate with a tie rod separator tool. Loosen the lower ball joint nut and separate with a ball joint separator tool. Lift the entire spindle unit up and swing it out so tha the half shaft is out of the hub. Using a small pry bar, remove the half shaft from the transaxle case. There is a small clip on the end of the half shaft which is used as a retainer to hold it in the transmission. Make sure that you have a drip pan below because fluid will run out a little. Replace the same way and torque to specs. Should only take a couple of hours to remove the old shafts from both sides. Also, don't think about rebuilding the axle if you don't have to because it is usually cheaper and the rebuilt unit sometimes comes with a "lifetime" replace warranty. Repair On!!!
There are three bolts involved. The top bolt located closest to the engine is your Pivot bolt. Loosen that bolt so the alternator will pivot downward when you unlock it. Speaking of unlocking, there is another bolt located on the bottom of the alternator, loosen and remove this bolt. Finally, on the front of the alternator there is a tension adjustment bolt. Loosen that until the belt clears the pulley so that you can remove it. You don't have to remove the tension bolt, just loosen it. Once the belt is removed make sure to disconnect any wire/plugs, etc from the alternator, remove the pivot bolt and viola! Installation is the reversal.
The old refrigerant will need to be vacuumed out and disposed of correctly, that is why a qualified tech should be doing it.
After that you replace all the O rings with the new ones and recharge the system.
Check all fuses
You "probably" can.. but it will definitely wig out the car's computer system and will most likely not even come close to passing any state "smog check" until the computer is aligned with the replacement engine. A major undertaking.. but not totally impossible. Best left to pros who have the proper equipment and crossover process abilities to make everything match up to spec.
Yes. Copy the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)usually located on a strip on the inside bottom of the windshield (driver's side). Take that number to a GM dealer and they can 'code cut' you a new set of keys- typically $20 to $30 apiece. If you can't find the VIN on the car, it's also on the vehicle registration.
Remove the 10mm bolt behind the bench near the seat belt fastening sight and then lift the seat up from the back to the front..towards the front seats. The clips are angled down and in so that the back has to lift up first.
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