VW New Beetle

wire into the tail lights at the back of the car

flashing blue means you have an electrical issues with the coolant sensor. you probably have a bad sensor that needs replacing in the coolant bottle

hope that helps

Phil

on the driver side end of the dash

A Volkswagen EOS would be the solid choice here although pricing is a bit different so it's not really a fair question but the new beetles production will end in 2011 if that helps.

1600 = 5 atdc

near the shock absorbers, would be my guess.

According to the original VW 1951, split window catalog, they are 5.00R16 but you can use 5.50R16, in any case if you need more info, just let me know,

R. Alonso Reimer

Use a feeler gauge to set the point gap at .016.

.016 inches using a feeler gauge, 50 degrees dwell on a dwell meter using a 4 cylinder scale plus or minus 2 degrees (8 cylinder scale set at 25 degrees plus or minus 2). If the dwell is too high the points are too far closed. A dwell meter is by far the best method, but the feeler gauge is good to get you in the ballpark with new points.

There are two screws on the lowest part of the wheel itself. You have to turn the wheel untill they are exposed at the bottom. I beleive they are tourqe bits. If you already have the new bag, you can get an idea of where they are exactly.

1.8L

It's very easy. You need a 6" C-Clamp to compress the piston and a large enough "channel lock" to turn the piston as it's held in the C-Clamp. Clamp it to compress & turn the piston Clockwise. Compress, turn, compress, turn. It shouldn't take too many turns and compressions to get it all the way in.

Prior to that, removing the pads are easy as well. Two 13mm bolts hold the calipers on. One of them has a wire connected to the ABS system. It's fairly easily unclipped. Be aware of how and where the wire it stowed and protected. It's really easy.

My problem is how to do the Front?

More-likey-than-not it is a bad ground. Check your ground wire for rust or corrosion, clean and replace.

try changing all the filters especially diesel filter

It means the fuel is not being burnt fully or too much is being injected. common causes are plugged air and fuel filters and bad timing. sometimes worn injectors can cause this also. this is common on very high mileage cars.

1 - 4- 3 - 2. Cylinder numbers are on the cooling tin.

No it is an infraction.

ONLY Valvoline OR NAPA same oil just no fancy label normalily 20w-50w or so

remove all carb (it makes life easier) remove the screws thea hold the cylender tins to the dog house also thereis a screw on each side. the dg house should be loose remove the hood and brackets remove alt strap and wires pull dog house streight up and tada

at the tail end of the transmission

housing near the shifter shaft.

in fuel tank

Yes. Four cylinder air cooled engine.

The upper pulley is a two piece setup. There are shims that you use to widen up or narrow down the gap between the two halves of the upper pulley on the Alt/Gen. Too tighten, you take the nut off the outer pulley and there should be a few shims between the nut and the pulley. Put them down for now and take the outer pulley off and there should be a few shims in between the halves. Depending on how loose the belt is you start taking the shims out one by one until the belt is tight. Then you put the extra shims and add them to the others that were already on the outside and retighten the nut. It may take a few tries to get it right. If you can't get the belt tight then either the belt is worn out or the wrong on is on it.

Get the Bentley manual as you will need it for future answers.

Simple answer is yes. The water pump is driven by the timing belt. P.S if you are not sure on how to do this job then pay a reputable workshop. You can bend cylinder head valves if you replace the timing belt incorrectly and then you are talking thousands to repair your car!

Steve:-)

In the rear. The engine is bolted to it and sits between the rear wheels.

From 1972 to 1979 the fuel tank capacity was 55l (14.6 US gallon)

The auto stick transmission you are speaking of still shifts like a manual. The gears are moved around slightly so check your ash tray for the shifting patern. start the vehicle in neutral with your foot on the brake slide the shifter into low and let go of the shifter. when you release you should feel the clutch slightly engage. Release the brake and slowly step on the gas and your off. You can shift into the higher gears simply by letting off the gas and moving the shifter to the desired point.