VW New Beetle

i am not sure if this is the right answer but sounds like u need to check the shims maybe some came loose? Check wheel bearings.

No only if its got a 't' in it. It will be 70 BHP diesel, same as 1.6 petrol (But all Diesel engines are a "turbo" - it's how the diesel engine works." All diesel engines are not turbo charged !!!

The easiest way to identify if the engine is turbo charged is to look at the exhaust manifold and see if you can see a turbo, a normally aspirated engine will have the exhaust pipe straight on to the manifold a turbo charged engine will have what look like bulges in the manifold area with a small rod and vacuum pipe (this controls the waste gate).

On the 306 the easiest way to identify either way is to open the bonnet and look at the engine, if there is a unit on top of the engine that looks like the radiator this is the 'intercooler' and the engine is turbo charged if this is not present and there is a black air box then this is normally aspirated and does not have a turbo !!

You can use one of the power plugs in lieu of the cigarrette lighter. Preferably the one to the right of the console below the radio.

A magnetic key holder can be attached to the rear bumper inner metal bracket. Try accessing from the underside, near the center. Anywhere that is not INSIDE the car. For example: your pocket, friends pocket, pet rock....etc.

Often with wear and time, the big spring in the front of the hood will get too compressed to force the hood open when the latch is pulled inside the car. Expand the hood spring by pulling on it or take it off and expand it.

It may be spring loaded and the whole unit can be pryed out while being careful not to scatch the paint. I'll let you know if it works after I try it next week.

where can i find a fuse panel diagram for a 1999 vw beetle

I had the same problem with my 2000 Bug and it turned out to be battery issue. Because my car has been sitting in the parking lot for the winter battery was so weak that blower didn't work. And as soon as I replaced the battery it was working. That might help.

Tools required:You'll need a 13mm box wrench or socket, 15mm box wrench (or pliers. You'll also need a brake caliper reset tool of some kind (ranginf from fancy $60 one to cheap $8 brake caliper cube from the local auto megamart to big vice grips or channel-type pliers +extra time and inappropriate language.) Also one set (4 pads) of brake pads and a small packet or two of brake grease.

Starting with the back corner jacked up, wheel removed and jackstand in place: There are two bolts that need to be removed. One is on the top and one on the bottom of the caliper. To find them look down from the top and you'll see a 1/2" long rubber boot- the bolts screw into this from the inside, so you'll have to reach your head inside to see them (you DO have a jackstand under the car, right?). The bolt is about 1-1/2" long with a 13mm head. To unscrew it you'll probably have to keep the nut on the rubber boot-side from turning with a skinny 15mm box wrench or pliers (be careful not to ruin the rubber boot.) There's what looks like a washer between the nut and the rubber boot, but it's really attached to the nut, so you can gently hold that with pliers to keep the nut from turning as you unscrew the bolt. After removing both bolts, you can wiggle the caliper towards the rear of the car to get to the pads. The pads are probably still in place. Leave them there for now since if you aren't able to complete this next step you'll be reusing them and they should go on the same side they came off of. The exposed part of the caliper's cylinder is a metal disk, about 1-1/2" in diameter with two notches at opposite sides. In order to get the new, larger breake pads on you'll have to push this cylinder back into the caliper so that it's nearly flush with the outside of the rubber bushing (the bushing will fold neatly as it moves in). The tricky part here is that you CANNOT just squeeeze the cylinder in as you might on 98% of the other cars you've worked on. Instead, the disk must be screwed in and squeezed in at the same time. If you insist on forcing it in using your 12" C-clamp, rebuilt calipers are going for about $95 each online. The C-clamp CAN be used as long as you hold the caliper with one hand, turn the C-clamp with your second hand, and twist the disk using channel-locks with your third hand. There are no threads to catch- if you just spin it without sqeezing it will go nowhere. The brake-cube tool connects to the end of a 3/8" extension on your ratchet and lets you turn the disk as your third and fourth hands try to squeeze the cylinder in somehow (prying with a screwdriver works for me). The Fancy tool lets you do it with only two hands- It's similar to a c-clamp with a foot that's stuck to the screw. If You've gotten the cylinder all the way back in (flush with the outside ring of the rubber boot) then you can swap the brake pads. Pull the old ones off, wipe a layer of brake grease (comes in a small plastic package like a tiny ketchup from a restaurant) on the METAL side of the brake pad- DO NOT GET GREASE ON THE LINING. The place you bought the brakes knows what this stuff is. If you don't see it out and they don't offer it, just ask when you get the brakes. This stuff is designed keep your brakes from squeeking. After snapping the new, greased pads in place, center the wire spring on each pad as much as possible, then slide the caliper back into place. Start the two bolts you're removed earlier, then check to make sure that neither of the springs shifted by looking through the slot in the center of the caliper (put your head directly to the rear of the caliper assembly and look straight ahead towards the axle). If you see the loop in the ends of either spring, take the caliper off, center the spring and try again. Both of the ends of these springs must ride against the caliper housing to keep the pads pressed in place. Tighten up the two bolts, put your tire back on, lower the car and repeat on the other side. No matter how hard that was, you MUST do both at the same time. Besides, the second one will be easier, I guarantee. When it's test time, pump the brake pedal several times before you put your car in gear to get the presure back to normal.

This isn't as bad as it sounds (other than resetting the cylinder maybe). You should be able to do it in an hour or two, much less if you're comfortable with tools and have the ones you need.

you will need a iso block convertor for the connections (approx

The 'stop plate' lip goes up and to the right...as if you were sitting in the drivers seat. Bolt it all up loosely. As you snug down the bolts, note that the position (forward and backward) is adjustable. That's why the bolt holes in the plate are oval shaped. Position the plate as close to the middle as you can to start out. Try all the gears and make sure you can get in each of the gears *all the way*. If the adjustment is not correct, it could pop out of gear. Also, under the rear seat is a coupler that hooks the shift rod to the transmission. Those go bad and wear out all the time, so check that connection out while you are mucking around with the shift system as it is a common area for problems related to shifting. Under the rear seat, in the center, is a large oval shaped plate with a Phillips screw. The coupler is under there and should be inspected every year at least.

its not as hard as it looks, lift the relay center away from the battery then unfasten the powersteering resivoir but dont disconect any fluid lines it will move out of the way enough to remove battery,remove post terminals, remove the battery cover from battery pay attention what part is the front ,its easier to put back in (thats from experience..lol)unfasten the baterry retaining bolt lift out towards the engine . rickm@together.net Idiots Guide I need my own idiots guide!!! Tools required, 200mm extender bar, socket driver, 10mm socket and 13mm socket, torch (or daylight!) Remove lead from neg (black) terminal with a 10mm socket and then the positive (red) terminal. Puch to the side out of the way. As you look down on the battery from the front of the car, at the bottom left hand corner you will see a 13mm bolt slacken this to remove the plastic frame that surrounds the battery.. To loosen the powersteering reservoir, slacken the 10mm bolt securing it in place. The battery is held in place - as most car batteries are - with a small plate at the base of the battery. Look at the edge of the battery nearest to you, find the centre and then pull towards you the battery shroud towards you - if you poke the socket and extender bar (with a 13mm socket on it) to the base of the battery, you'll soon find the securing plate - you will need to completely remove this to slide the battery out from right to left!! (Not just yet, hold on!) I found it best to lift the plastic shroud covering the engine and the fuse holder cover on top of the battery - then prepare to struggle! It is tough work removing the battery carefully but it will come out if you slide from right to left. The toughest bit is getting the bottom right hand corner of the battery to clear the wing. That is why I suggest removing everything you can! When out remove the shroud (secured with velcro) and pop it on your new battery (if refitting another). Installation is a reversal of removal. The only minor hiccup was resecuring the power steering 10mm bolt - there is a second plate which is also secured when you reposition the power steering reservoir. The thread for the bolt is furthest left (towards the engine) if you are standing at the front of the car. Patience and the right tools required - happy to note that as my wifes stereo is a VW built in affair, the car radio code was not required (just like everyone else I wouldn't have been able to find it if I required it either!). Good luck, iangrace@btopenworld.com

The diagram o the fuse box is located inside the car near the hood latch. Lift the cover which is held on with velcro and the diagram is inside the panel of the door.

1999 Volkswagen Beetle how to change spark plugs

its a pain but pry back the panel so you can see behind crank use a flat head screwdriver and a towel so you dont scratch it. inside the crank is a small U shaped clip get some small needle nose plyers and pull it out.,

Hi all This is Ben from South-Africa and my answer is Yes as a 34 Dmtr was fitted on my 1.8 citi golf im not sure how they did it but it, sure performs and also leaves a big hole in my pocket.

Is the bulb burnt out? Change the bulb and it will blink at the dash and light. If it still doesn't work, check the turn signal relay.

On most New Beetles, the fuse panel is on the side of the dash board, accessable only after opening the drivers door. A sticker indicating which fuse goes to which function, as well as a fuse remover, are located inside of the fuse panel door. Opening the door can be accomplished with a screwdriver, one is provided with the toolkit in the spare tire, or a key. Consult the owner's manual if the fuse panel is not in this location.

its under the drivers side headlight accessed from under the car behind plastic cover

Full instructions and with pictures available at

http://www.wlsheadliners.com/tutorials/volkswagon/vw_beetle_headliner_replacement.html

Take it to the dealer ! I have a 2003 Neon and had the same problem. So looked uner the front end and discovered a splash guard.After removing this splash guard there was relatively enough space to remove the old bulb and replace it with a new one. Caution, when installing the new bulb, wear protective hand covering as direct skin contactto the new bulb will damage the new bullb. Replace the splash guard and you're done

Your owner's manual will contain this information.

there are coil packs on the 98 passports. to get to the spark plugs you have to take the coil packs off they are square plastic and have 2 screws or little hex drive bolts one on each side you must remove those screws and remove the coil packs but be careful not too break the plug socket that sticks down from the coil pack into the valve cover and dont over torque the screws when you put them back I believe they are 8mm but if not 8 then 10

VERY CAREFULLY - If you break the quick disconnects on the fuel lines it will cost you a fortune!!! 500.00 + because they have to string NEW FUEL LINES. - I have replaced the fuel filter a couple of times - I have a 2000 beetle with a 1.8 Turbo. The fuel lines are pressurized so you will need to relieve the pressure before you try and remove the filter or you will get a face full of gas. The filter comes off by pushing the fuel line toward the filter and then pushing the quick release button on the fuel line. The fuel line should then decouple - the filter lives under the car near the right rear tire (just in front) Good luck and be careful

The easist way is to have the car on a lift. They best access is from underneath. I've done them from the top but it is nearly impossible to reach a few from the top. VBD buy a flex socket from autozone, its what i used on my 92 with a 350 a few were a little trouble not that bad, a 80 caddy fleetwood with a 368 is harder, only thing to do is use a weekend when you can be patient and everything will work out fine. the hard part is the distributor cap getting it out you got to muscle it a little bit.