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VW New Beetle
The VW New Beetle was a compact car manufactured by the German automaker Volkswagen from 1997 to 2010. This model was inspired by the design of the original VW Beetle, which was produced from 1938 to 2003.
3,070 Questions
How do you change spark plugs in a Silhouette?
I take it that we're talking about a 3.4L V6. If this is the case and you are a relatively handy mechanic it's possible. If not take it to the dealer or a good mechanic who can put it on a lift and possibly get at the rear plugs from underneath. If you still want to do the job yourself go out and buy the Haynes Service Manual for your van; it'll cost you about $20 and is worth every penny. The plugs are good for over 100K Mi and if you have less mileage, any misfire might be from some other cause. Look at the front plugs to check their condition, the rear plugs should be the same and are much harder to get at. Here is the short and sweet of it. First you'll have to rotate the engine forward to get at the rear plugs, to do this remove the the air cleaner, intake air plumbing, and front engine stabilizers. Disconnect the exhaust flange from the engine to the exhaust pipe, from underneath the car remember to use a good set of jack stands on stable ground, when you're working under a ton or two of sharp metal you can never be too safe. Remove the upper radiator hose then put a come-a-long or ratchet tie down strap on the engine lift point and to one of the bolts left after removing the stabalizers, then winch the engine forward exposing more of the rear of the engine. As I remember you'll have to remove the EGR Valve, possibly the upper intake manifold, the ignition coil pack and the canister vent valve which mounts on the back of the coils, getting at these rear bolts is a bear, I wouldn't replace them just put the vent valve on the studs the ignition coil on top of that and let the front bolts hold the ignition coils down, it's worked fine for me for over 100 K Mi. Heed the next step, it's important so you don't have to go through the rest of your life known as Lefty. Before you put your arms behind the engine, double up the tie down strap, if one falls off it'll break and pin your arms behind the engine, safety again. As you can see this is a relatively involved process, more from the number of steps than any complexity. There are many hidden bolts and the manual is essential, number or mark all cables you remove although none will fit any of the plugs except where their suppose to go. Take pictures, and do everything that needs to be done in the back, don't be like me and not change the O2 Sensor trying to save $50 just to have to do it all over again in 6 months. Good luck, be safe 94 It doesn't need to be that much work. I just drove the car up on a set of ramps (good quality plastic ones, not the cheap stamped steel). Then you can reach up next to the exhaust downpipe and remove the three back-side spark plugs. You need to allow about 45 minutes before the exhaust is cool enough to work around, start with the front plugs. Getting the spark plug wire boots off the plugs was the biggest challenge. They tend to seal down and don't want to come free. If I had to do it again (and I doubt I will given the 100k life of the plugs) I'd just replace all the wires too, so there's no need to be gentle removing the boots. Use dielectric grease on the plug boots when you reinstall. Answer: Nightmare! Next time i'd like to cut a hole in the firewall to get to them. This vechical should come with lifetime spark plugs. It can be done with alot of work.
How do you install a clutch cable in a 1992 Nissan Sentra?
The clutch cable on my '92 Nissan Sentra just broke and while looking here, I saw this question. I replaced it and am not overly experienced with working on cars, so it's not difficult. I'm not sure how applicable this will be to other makes or models, I doubt there's much variation though beyond accessibility and locations of parts. My apologies for any incorrect or nonstandard terms I may use.
1. Find where the cable connects to the clutch, forward and to the driver's side of the engine. The cable ends in a 'fork' (look at the new cable to see what I mean) that hooks over a lever going to the clutch. There's nothing above it to block your view, so it's easy to see. Unhook the cable off the lever.
2. Several inches down from this lever, the cable goes through an bracket connected to the engine. Your view will be blocked by the air hose going to the filter, but you can easily access it with your hands. Reach over and behind (that is, toward the rest of the car) the hose and pull on the cable. Once the rubber stopper on the cable is free from the bracket, the cable can be pulled to the right out of the bracket, as it has a small notch. I didn't realize this and removed the fork after part 1, but that's unnecessary (though not difficult).
3. Remove the lower dash panel, the large plastic piece that goes under the steering wheel. This will give you more room, and is easy; there are four Phillips head screws at the corners.
4. Now unhook the fork at the other end of the cable from the pedal (I 'skipped' this step because my cable had broken). This is tricky to describe, and quite frustrating if you have short or overly thick fingers. With the clutch pedal undepressed, you can access the cable fork with your left hand. I had to recline both seats, and lie on my back with my head down near the pedals. It may be possible to sit outside the car on the driver's side; I was on a busy street, so this wasn't an option. The best (probably only) way to access this is to kind of reach over the pedal bracket on the left (away from the other pedals) side. The corner of a piece of plastic down by the hood release should be touching (maybe digging into) your forearm, and the corner of the pedal bracket should be touching around your wrist. You should be able to reach the fork with your index and middle fingers. It hooks on a notch at the top of the pedal, similar to the notch at the other end on the clutch lever. You won't be able to see anything, so you'll have to go by feel for all this.In older Sentras press the clutch pedal in all the way, and it will slip off easier.
5. Now find where the cable goes through the firewall, from the engine side. It will be obvious, on the far right upper corner of the firewall. It goes into a 'diamond' shaped metal housing, held by 2 12mm nuts, and then to the pedal. The Haynes manual says to remove this metal piece, which I did, but I don't think it's necessary. There's a rubber stopper that goes into this metal housing, and if you pull that out the cable should come right out.
6. The cable routes between some thin metal tubes (I think they're part of the brake system since they're near the reservoir), and is held in place by a little bracket that it will pop out from. Take note of how it routes between these tubes, and carefully pull the cable out. It should now be free of everything.
7. To install the new cable, do everything in reverse. Once again it will be frustrating and tricky to hook the fork onto the pedal. It helps to take a small rubber band and wrap it around several times at the very end of the cable to hold the fork that hooks on to the clutch pedal in place. This keeps it from slipping back down the cable. You should be able to feel, with the tips of your fingers, the notch that the fork hooks on; the hardest part will be manipulating the fork into position using the tips of two fingers. Keep at it and you'll get it.
8. Once the cable's in place, adjust the cable length by turning the large knob on the clutch end of the cable. Tighten it on to shorten the length, and once it's far enough that it's becoming difficult to go further, tighten the nut down. You should be ready to go.
Another :
Mine is a 99 Nissan Sentra and to be honest, these cars just are not made for large American hands, in such tiny places. I didn't have the option of a manual of any sorts, so had to dive right in. My situation was the same, cable snapped on the way to work one morning and lucky for me, I was only a few miles from home so was lucky enough not to have to get a rollback, and it was early in the morning, with no cops around seeing me do "Hollywood Stops" at our few stop signs. To remove the cable assembly is a snap really, a star-wheel at the transmission shift lever(or fork if you will) has to come off and this allows the bracket to come right off the transmission lever. This leaves the rest of the cable assembly. There is 2 places where the cable is supported and they are easy to see. One bracket bolts to the tranny itself and there is a grommet on the cable assembly that goes into the bracket. The other bracket is basically on the fenderwell, or that area, and the cable housing just snaps there. I removed the (2) 13mm nuts that hold the cable assembly at the firewall and my old cable just pulled right out. Mine snapped not in the middle of the cable itself, but at the wear point, where the slotted lever of the clutch pedal attaches to the clevis section of the clutch cable assembly, under the dash. It's darn hard to see, but it's up there. Here is a picture of what it looks like: (see Figure 1, "Sources and Related Links", below)
Willing to bet this is where most failures happen as it's a metal to metal contact, during constant clutching.
In my search of the net, and the limited amount I could find...seems some folks are just born with horseshoes in their pockets, or the stars were in perfect alignment during the new cable install. You'll have to put the firewall bracket onto your new cable assembly! Some stated they just slide the cable into the hole in the firewall, wiggled the cable till it attached itself to the little lever that attaches to the clevis device on the cable assembly...and boom, done. I, was NOT that lucky, after trying that method for an hour or so. I had already removed the (2) 13mm nuts that held the old cable assembly bracket to the firewall....and the only thing left was the (1) 12mm bolt that holds the whole clutch bracket assembly, to underneath the dash. Yep, on mine...only (2) 13mm nuts, and (1) 12mm bolt--and the assembly dropped down far enough for me to hook the clutch cable "clevis" to the clutch fork lever shown in the picture mentioned above. KEEPING THE PEDAL in the NON-DEPRESSED position...slide the clutch assembly bracket back into place, being careful not to let the pedal drop to the floor, or the clevis to come off the lever again. Once in position, put back on your (2) 13mm nuts at the firewall, but put them on only hand tight...then place the 12mm bolt back into it's position in the clutch bracket assembly, under the dash. My 12mm bolt came out fine, but during the reinstall...seems the guy who originally installed this, must have had a hangover and buggered up the threads on the self aligning bolt. Took bolt to the local hardware store and picked up another proper sized/threaded metric bolt/flat washer..and fixed that little hangup. Now, tightened up everything, under the dash as well as at the firewall. Thank goodness the threads under the dash were fine!
I had to remove the starwheel from the other end of the cable..and had to remove the bracket that attaches to the transmissions clutch lever(or fork lever). Be careful, as there is a small round hollow tube in that grommet in this bracket! Once this is done, put the cable in the proper brackets, on the fenderwell and transmission, place the bracket on the tranny clutch lever(it has a slot too) and get starwheel back started on the threaded end of the cable assembly. Once this is done, you are almost home. You can hand turn the starwheel, and the tranny lever, will move towards the firewall, with little resistance. It will get to the point where you can't turn it(starwheel) with your fingers anymore. You'll also notice your clutch pedal moving up, inside the car. I stopped there, and tightened up the small 10mm jam nut that you'll see on the cable assembly, at the tranny lever. If everything works out right for you...you can go inside car, depress clutch pedal about, and feel it working like it should. I've heard it said, that normally there is an inch or less of exposed threads(facing the radiator) at the starwheel. My car has over 100,000 miles and know that a new clutch is in the future, at some point. With a new clutch, am sure you would have less exposed threads, as the disc will be new, and thicker, so you won't be able to thread up the starwheel quite so far.
I also have heard folks complain about aftermarket cable assemblies...well, I went to the dealership and purchased one from Nissan, for about 40 bucks..aftermarkets run anywhere from 20-35 bucks, and the factory one snapped right in place, like it's supposed to. Course, they didn't have in stock and had to wait 3 days to get it. Spend the extra 5-10 bucks, it's well worth it and am sure it won't let you down again, quite as soon as the aftermarket. Some folks can't wait the 3 days, and I surely understand that.
I hope from my experience, and the gent who wrote the first part of this article...will help those in need. Good Luck and walk away for a few moments if you get frustrated
Where can you find the 2000 Toyota Avalon EFI fuse diagram?
I heard that the EFI fuse if pulled would reset the check engine light.It didn't work for me.Disconnecting the positive side of the battery did reset it. The negative side will also do the same
How do you change spark plugs on a Chrysler 300M?
This WEBSITE has the answers as well as pictures and a step by step: http://theswampbbs.com/300m/plugchange/default.html
How do you change the headlights on a 2003 Volkswagen Beetle?
I just recently changed headlight bulbs on my 1999 VW Beetle 1.8T. The process is a little strange, but it is not very difficult to do, once you understand it. I am assuming that the set-up is the same for a 2003. If not, I apologize up-front for not having the right answer for you.
There are a few posts at this link that I used initially to guide me. http://www.myvwlemon.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000071.HTML
Anyway, here goes:
The car should not be running during this process. Open the hood and look at the backside of the headlamp assembly. If you are looking at the driver's side lamp from the front of the car, towards the left, you will see a plastic lever that moves up and towards the outside of the car. Slide it very carefully, do not force it; it is plastic. This will cause the entire headlamp assembly to shift out forward from the body. The sealing adhesive used on the gasket may not make this readily apparent. I used a silicone lubricant on the lever to make mine move easier. Gently pull the headlight assembly out of the body and disconnect the plug to the lamps. Take the assembly somewhere where you can work on it comfortably and swap out the lamp(s) as needed. When you are done replacing lamps, I suggest spraying lubricant on the rails in the body and on the headlight assembly grooves before putting it back in. Plug the lamp back in first. Then be very patient in putting back the assembly; be sure everything lines up. Do not force it. Once it is back in, the lever can be reset to its original position and you are done.
ADDENDUM from a third party: Just finished doing my passenger side; driver side likely the same. i saw a refernce to some metal strap on older models- not present on 03 model. the plastic lever is in fact the only thing to move in order to slide the whole assembly out of the front ofo the fender, however, it is an odd mechanism. mine slid with great resistance due to sand and dirt buildup in a remote area. to slide the lever up, depress the small tab with diamonds on it as you pull on the lever. you will notice that the lever has a certain amount of distance it can travel before hitting the housing.mine went about half way at first. as you pull up on the lever from here, i found it helpful to press on the back of the headlight assembly itself which is grey plastic as opposed to the black plastic and metal housing. the lever thing is trying to push the assembly out about half an inch as it travels up to it's maximum distance- mine slid really poorly due to dirt in the tracks that the assembly slides on. it needs help to slide the half inch AS the lever is being raised- again, push on the grey plastic assembly back as you slide the lever. when the lever is as far as it can go, either pull the light out from the front- mine was way stubborn, but IF THE LEVER IS ALL THE WAY UP, nothings holding the thting but dirt; pull it and it will come. after it's slid all the way out, depress the wire harness tab to pull it off of the assembly harness. take the black plastic cover off of the rear. the low beam is closest to you, the high beam is deep inside- for the high beam, i found it helpful to remove the wire harness f ROM the housing before goin further ( don't disconnect the wires from it, just let it hang so it's out of the way. bulbs are held in place by a spring clip. push down on the spring and pull it asidewhile pressing- it's a loop on a pin kinda thing. pull off wire from bulb and insert new bulb- try not tto touch the bulb itself as i understand hand oils and grimy engine dirt you're covered witht by now can make the bulb shatter when it gets hot. put it all back together in reverse, clean and lube the tracks and slidinf lever track if you can. when sliding the assembly in, put the bottom track in first, then the eone nearer center of car, the the last one, whiich i needed to sort of lift the assembly into so it lined up ( it's dark and hard to see it since the assembly's mostly in by now. the whole thing would only take me 10 minutes next time, but it took me almost 2 hours since i didn't understand it at first and changed the high beam and had to do it over , not to mention removing extra pieces unnecessarily and trying to be cautious.
How do you replace a head light bulb on a 1997 Mazda 323?
How do you change the spark plugs on a 1995 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6?
you will need a 5/8 spark plug wrench let the engine cool, then disconnect the negative battery cable remove the spark plug wire from the first plug and remove and replace the plug dont forget to gap the new plugs between 42 and 46 and repeat on the next one be sure to only do 1 at a time as not to mess up the firing order
Where do you fill the transmission fluid on a 2001 Volkswagen Beetle?
the new volkswagens as i know it has hydrostatic transmissions no dipstick no plug ........if u see a low fluid trans light or trans service light is on jack up car and find where it is leaking from because it is busted
How do you reset the check engine light on Cavalier 1997 2.2L without special tools?
Well I had the same problem. What you do is disconnect both battery terminals,
then pump the brake and keep pressing the horn for like 1 minute, that takes the problem out of the memory cell, then wait 1 hour then connect the battery, and see if the light is still on. If it is, wait like 2 and a half minutes, and the car should go off. What your problem could be is that your check engine light needs to be RESET.
I had a similar problem. My check engine light went on and started blinking, and when it blinks, it means theirs a misfire, so I changed all 4 spark plugs, and turned the car on, and the light stopped blinking, but remained on, so it needed to be RESET, because its a computer that senses it, so it doesn't know the problem is all taking care of, so it needed to be RESET. I /helped you.
How to you remove and replace a door lock for a 2003 Cavalier?
It has a retainer on the inside of the door. Take the door panel off.
When you pulled your key out it was hot and so was the ignition what would cause this?
It is hard to say what is causing it. The ignition switch on mose cars in down on the steering column. It may be simply the heat of the engine traveling up the steering column. If anything electrical is causing it, a fuse or fuseable link will blow. ford/lincoln/mercury had a recall on ignition heating problems in the late 80's/ early 90's. Actually the fuse would not necessisarily blow as long as what ever the key was short circuiting had some sort of resistance. The fuse would deffinetly blow if it was a direct short to ground. Of course this is assuming someone in the past hasn't circumvented some fuse instead of fixing the actual problem. It's been known to happen.
Germany and anywhere else that their dealers and owners want them are the places where Beetle Bugs live. The Volkswagen in question is linked with the car manufacturer's headquarters in Wolfsburg, Germany but lays claim to a worldwide sales and repair network. Its inspiration may be found in the Czech Republic's Tatra ladybug-like car so admired by Adolf Hitler (April 20, 1889 - April 30, 1945) and his preferred automotive engineer Ferdinand Porsche (September 3, 1875 - January 30, 1951) before, during, and after the invasion of Czechoslovakia by Nazi Germany.
01 beetle no hot air from heater?
If a 2001 VW Beetle does not have hot air coming from the heater there is a problem with the vehicles heating system. The heater core is malfunctioning and will need to be replaced.
What is the length of a VW Beetle?
The length of the 2015 Volkswagen Beetle is 168. 4 inches. That is equal to 14. 03 feet. It is 71. 2 inches wide which is equal to 5. 9 feet.
How do you change an engine in a front wheel drive car?
With some effort.
There are quite a lot of things that ties and engine to the car, and all these have to be separated before the engine can be removed.
Depending on how crowded the engine bay is, there'll be different amounts of auxillaries that also has to come off first. Sometimes it's easier to drop the engine out from underneath the car as opposed to lifting it out.
And there are really too many specifics depending on make/model for there to be one sensible answer to how to do it. Youe best bet is to get a repair manual, like a Haynes, for your car, and read up on the preocedure from there.
The radio code for a 1999 vw new beetle?
every code is different your code will be in the manual and its a four digit code
On a 2001 Volkswagon Beetle why would both blinkers quit working The bulbs are not bad?
The turn signals and hazard lights on this year Beetle are controlled by the hazard switch. Dealers refer to this switch as a hazard/flasher module.
When the switch fails, the lights typically flash once or twice then stop due too faulty internal contacts. The switch/module is just like the old style turn signal flasher that older cars used years ago, only the cost is a little bit more expensive.
This is a common part that fails on this vehicle.
