That would depend on several variables. If the leak is professionally repaired and there is no damage to the substrate under the liner, then you should be fine with the life expetency of the liner. If there was a wash-out under the liner, then there is added stress to the liner at that point which can shorten it's life expectancy. If the patch is done with a clear store-bought patch kit, the patch likely will not hold very long and the liner will likely begin leaking again, which can damage the substrate and affect the liner integrity.
It a word, no. Without a leak, the freon level in your unit should stay the same for years and years.
No! Huggies will be your best type of diaper to buy if you were considering no leak or mess.
The answer is yes, but you must use the same product used by the manufacturer. Be sure to use swimming pool gel coat with a coating of vinyl ester resin first. Life expectancy will be about 20 years.
No.
Unless you have an oil leak or your engine runs hot. You should put the same amount of oil back in that you take out. If you have a leak and or you burn oil, then you should consult your owners manual. The right amount would be under maintenance.
First you have to find where the water is leaking. To figure that out, fill your pool to the normal water level and mark the water level on the liner. Wait a day and mark the new water level. Fill it up to the first mark then shut off all your pool equipment and wait the same amount of time. If the level drops the same the leak is in the liner, other wise it's in the plumbing. If it's your liner leaking in some cases you can grab a pair of goggles and get wet to find a hole and use a patch kit from you nearest pool dealer to patch it. Sometimes you can't find it, most pool dealers have equipment to find the leak and they can patch it. If it's in the plumbing, you could be in for a bigger problem. It may involve cutting concrete decking and a bunch of digging. You have to get to the pipe that is leaking and cut that part out and patch a new line in. Again most pool dealers have equipment to easily tell which line and where plumbing is leaking. This can save a lot of work!
Personally, I would have a professional change my liner. The liner needs to be stretched smooth, the water added slowly while adjusting the liner, and the temperature should be at least 60 degrees or higher. If the pool is large, it will require more than one person. It may require up to 6 people working at the same time. Pay the money and have the pros do it. They can complete it in one day. Hope this helps!
One will find that different websites list slightly different age ranges for the Britax Hi Liner. A few list the age ranges of 4-11 years old, and a few others list the range as 4-12 years old. The weight remains the same for all sites though at 15-36kgs.
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It can vary. 11 years or 5 or 6 years. There isn't a set amount of years.
Answer 1:IF you can get in the pool, brush dirt off bottom and look for anything that looks like a crack or small hole.This is easy to do in the shallow end.IF you see something after you have brushed the bottom or sides, the next step is to get a dye tester from pool store. Squirt the dye into the suspected leak area.Be careful not to actually touch the surface of the pool liner, though.if the dye swirls harmlessly that is not a leak IF the dye seems to go into the spot you are testing that is a leak Do NOT waste money on peel & stick vinyl pool patches if you are patching a liner underwater. They will NOT stick. Use the patches that require glue.Also advise swimmers NOT to use the pool pole to retrieve items from the bottom. The unprotected end is sharp enough to gouge the liner.I personally would not even take a chance using the pole end that is padded.If you can't find a leak in the shallow end and can dive to the bottom in the deep end, check that nextA pool pro can pressure test the plumbing to determine if the leak is in the plumbing.Also check for water loss around any external lines, like the backwash, or heater or the plumbing for the pump.Answer 2:In order to tell if the leak is in the structure or the plumbing you want to run an extended leak test. Check the amount of water loss over a period of 24 hours with the pump running the entire time. Then check how much you lose with the pump off for 24 hours. If the leak is in the structure (anything not involving the pipes - liner, light, etc) the rate of loss should be about the same. If the leak is in the suction lines (going from the bottom drain or skimmers to the pump) then you will lose more water when the pump is off. If the leak is in the return lines (going from the filter back to the pool) then the loss will be greater when the pump is running.
The same amount of people that died in the plague and hundred years war.