This is called a breaking wave also known as a breaker.
That's the wave's frequency.
swells
The two features formed by wave deposition are islands and beaches.
The person nearest to the breaking wave (the whitewash) has priortiy. Also if some one gets a wave farther out than you, it is their wave.
The breaking point.
Usally used to describe a nicely breaking wave, with it peeling down the line instead of dumping.
A hook. The lip.
waVE PEROIDS
It's amplitude.
Waves out in the ocean don't break because they are in deep water, waves break when they reach shallower water and so the bottom of the wave catches on the bottom and causes a bit of friction which slows the wave down and cause it to fall over itself, which is breaking
A swash is the rush of seawater up on the beach after the breaking of a wave.