056 AV stihl chainsaw what year was it made?
The 056 was made from the late 1970's to the mid 1980's.
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\n. \n Answer \n. \n. \n2-stroke gas powered saw w/ electronic ignition. 16-24" bar typical, can take other bars. High torque, lower speed saw, circa 1970's to 1980's. Considered obselete for parts and repairs, but many are out there if you hunt for them\nCorrection: later models had elect…ronic but were so labeled, earlier 031av had points. (MORE)
at the side of the saw theres a cover, that you remove and inside is 2 screws you adjust the chain by turning the screws adjust the chain until theres just a little little slack NO NO NO NO NO, don't remove the cover. I don't know who answers these questions but i have owned about fifty different …saws and I've never seen one where you remove the cover. (i own 14 saws now and am a logger/arborist). So leave the cover on, LOOSEN the nuts on the cover, you don't even have to take them off. Then ther should be a bar adjuster screw. either a whole in the cover, on the otherside of the bar (in between the bar and the inside dawg) or sometimes even on the bar itself. it will be look like a slotted screw you just use a screwdriver). (MORE)
there is no RPM settings for a chain saw, it is controlled by the gas trigger, when cutting wood run it full throttle, the rpm settings for stihl varies depending on the model of the unit. all stihl products have an idle rpm setting and wot rpm setting
Check for spark. If its got spark than its probably fuel related. If you left gas in it, then it could need a full cleaning (carb, fuel lines, filter, etc). Before you clean the heck out of it you should check the compression and make sure it isn't shot. The quick easy way to check compression of …a chainsaw is to pick your saw up, hold the starter handle then let it hang from the handle. The saw should NOT lower to the ground. If it does then you have lost compression. Always drain your saw of gas when you plan on storing it. Then run it till its completely dry and has no fuel in at all. Then put it in a dry place.... that's the best way to store them. you can leave the bar oil in it, it doesnt go bad...... (MORE)
Answer . hi to change the cord on a still saw is abit tricky as there is coil spring in side you have to set it up so that when pulled it will recoil its self take it to atool hire shop they will sort it in 1hr at a price of Â£10-Â£15 POUNDS no hasstle
. What is the correct gas/oil ratio for STIHL products? A. When using STIHL branded Two Cycle Mix Oil, a 50:1 ratio (1 gallon of gasoline to 2.6 oz of STIHL 2 Cycle Oil). STIHL has Two Cycle Oil in easy to use bottles that are pre-measured for easy mixing with regular grade gasoline that has a mi…nimum rating of 89 octane. Refer to your owner manual. (MORE)
Now known as Model #: MS 170 :. Engine: . Single cylinder two-stroke engine: 30 cc (1.7 hp). Idle speed: 3200 rpm Bore: 37 mm Stroke: 28 mm. Ignition System: . Electronic magneto. Spark Plug : Champion RCJ 6Y or Bosch WSR 6 F Electrode Gap: 0.5 mm (0.02") Replace spark plug after 100 o…perating hours. Fuel/Oil System: . Carburator: All position diaphragm carb with integral fuel pump. Air filter: Felt mat. Fuel Capacity: 0.25 litres (0.53 US pint). Fuel Mix: Unleaded gas with 50:1 mix ratio = 1 US gal. with 2.6 US fl. oz. of oil. Chain Lubrication: Fully automatic speed-controlled rotary piston oil pump. Bar Oil Tank Capacity: 0.15 litres (0.32 US pint). Weight (without bar and chain): 3.9 kg (8.6 lbs.). Recommended cutting attachments: . Chain: Low kickback (green label) 3/8" Pitch Picco Micro Mini 0.043" gauge. Marketing Number: 61PMMC3-50 Part Number: 3610 Guide Bar: Rollomatic 14 inch (35 cm). Part Number: #3005-000-3909 or #3005-008-3909. Reduced Kickback (green label). Chain Sprocket: 6 tooth for 3/8' Picco Pitch. (MORE)
011 specs are. engine is 41 cm3 or 2.50 cubic in,bore 38 mm or 1.50 in.,Stroke 36 mm or 1.42 in,9800 max rpm.Max torque 1.8 Nm or 1.3 ft pounds at 4500.For some odd reason they dont give me any Hp specs.Maybe they didn't want to scare anyone.It might be one of those Huge Competition chainsaws. .
Carburetor Adjustment on Pro Saws Info Carburetor adjustment iscritical on chain saws and other two-cycle engines. An adjustmentthat is too rich will cause a saw to smoke, have insufficientpower, and may damage the engine. An adjustment that is too leanwill also produce insufficient power and is mor…e likely to damagethe engine. Proper carburetor adjustment will allow the saw toproduce maximum power, produce minimal smoke, run and idlesmoothly, and give trouble free service. An over rich carburetor adjustment is when the proportion offuel in the combustible air/fuel mixture is so high that the fueldoes not burn well. The burn does not produce much heat, so thepower stroke is weak. The partially burned mixture is expelled intothe muffler and exits the saw as smoke. An over rich conditioncauses carbon buildup and will plug the fire screen and cylinderports if run for a period of time. A lean carburetor adjustment is when the proportion of fuelin the combustible air/fuel mixture is so low that there is notenough fuel to burn. This also makes a weak power stroke and causesthe saw to have insufficient power. In addition to low power, alean condition causes the cylinder temperature to rise, which oftenleads to seizure. A lean condition also allows for excessive RPMwhich often leads to big end rod bearing failure. In our shop wesee more premature engine failure caused by lean running conditionsthan rich ones. Most Chain Saw Engines Have Three Carburetor Adjusting Screws: . Idle Speed/Throttle Stop - This is the adjustment that controlshow much the throttle valve (butterfly) stays open when thethrottle trigger is released. If this adjustment is set too low,the engine will die when the throttle trigger is released. Thethrottle valve (butterfly) simply cuts off the supply ofcombustible air/fuel and the engine stops. If this adjustment isset too high, the high idle speed will cause the centrifugal clutchto engage and the chain will run. This is a dangerous condition andshould never be allowed. . Low Speed Fuel Adjustment - This is the adjustment thatcontrols the proportion of fuel in the combustible air/fuel mixtureat idle speed. An adjustment that is set too rich will cause theengine to load up and die at idle speed. A mixture that is too leanwill starve the engine and cause it to race or surge. An extremelylean adjustment will cause the engine to die, too. . High Speed Fuel Adjustment - This is the adjustment thatcontrols the proportion of fuel in the combustible air/fuel mixtureat cutting speed. It would not be accurate to say that this is themost important setting, because all of these adjustments need to beaccurate for a saw to perform its best, but this is the adjustmentthat determines how the saw runs in the cut. An adjustment that isset too rich will not allow the saw to reach the RPM levelnecessary to build maximum power. Throttle response may also besluggish and the engine would smoke and perform poorly. Amixture that is too lean will allow the engine to reach an RPMlevel where bearing failure and cylinder seizure are likely. Itwill also lack power in the cut and tend to run very hot . The preceding information briefly explains rich and lean runningconditions. It also identifies the three adjustment screws andtheir function. It should be noted that some chain saws lack thehigh speed adjustment needle. These saws have what is called a"fixed jet" which is set from the factory. "Fixed jet" carburetorsare used to prohibit the saw operator from setting the adjustmenttoo lean and damaging the saw. Unfortunately, they also oftenprohibit the saw from achieving maximum performance. Carburetor Adjustment Procedure Carburetor Adjustment Procedure Thefollowing procedure should be followed to insure proper carburetoradjustment: Â· (1) Check the air filter and clean it if necessary. Adjusting thecarburetor with the air filter partially clogged is like adjustingthe carburetor with the choke partially on. If you adjust your sawwith a dirty air filter, the saw will run too lean when the filteris cleaned. Â· (2) If carburetor adjustment is required due to a new or rebuiltcarburetor, it is best to start with the fuel adjustment settingsone turn out. This is accomplished by gently screwing the adjustingscrews onto their seats and then backing them out one turn each.Care must be taken when screwing them onto their seats because theseats may be easily damaged if the adjustment screws are seated toohard. These seats are delicate and if they are damaged, thecarburetor has to be replaced. Â· (3) Check the fuel level. The tank should be over half full. Ifthe carburetor is adjusted when the fuel tank is nearly empty, thecarburetor may be adjusted too rich when the fuel tank is filled. Â· (4) Start the engine and warm it up. Carburetor adjustments madeon a cold engine will be too rich when it reaches normal operatingtemperature. Â· (5) Begin by setting the idle speed. Try to set the speed atabout 2700 RPM. If you don't have a tachometer, try to set thespeed so the saw will idle with the chain stopped. Never set theidle so the chain runs when the throttle is released. If the sawwill not idle, go to the next step. Â· (6) Set the low speed fuel adjustment. Slowly turn in the screwuntil the engine surges or starves for fuel. Make a mental note ofthe position of the screwdriver slot. Now slowly turn theadjustment screw out and the engine should run better. Keep turningthe screw until the engine starts to load up. Make a note of theposition of the screwdriver slot and compare it to the position ofthe lean adjustment. Now slowly turn in the screw to a positionwhere it idles the best. It should be about midway between the richand lean settings. Â· Click on the link below and a WAV sound clip will be loaded intoyour browser. What you'll hear is a idling saw. Slowly we lean thelow speed adjuster till the idle climbs and it then starts to die.Then we go rich and the it starts to blubber and the RPM's drop,almost to a point where it dies. The optimum setting is betweenthese two extremes. If you're adjusted too lean it'll run out ofgas and die, or die when accelerated. (Note that a saw adjusted toolean on the high can also die when accelerated.) These are app. 25 seconds long, but require time to load. Those ofyou with slow systems or connections may not want to wait! Click here for Saw Idle Adjustment Sound WAV Â· (7) Go back to step (5) and reset the idle speed. Chances arethat the RPM setting has changed since you optimized the fuelmixture adjustment. Â· (8) Set the high speed fuel adjustment. Hold the trigger wideopen and check the RPM with the tachometer. The listing belowidentifies the maximum RPM setting for popular pro saws without bar& chain: . STIHL 044 - 13,500 RPM . STIHL 066 - 13,000 RPM . STIHL 084 - 11,500 RPM . HUSQVARNA 272 - 13,500 RPM . HUSQVARNA 288 - 13,000 RPM . HUSQVARNA 394 - 13,000 RPM . HUSQVARNA 3120 - 11,500 RPM NOTE: If you do not have a tachometer, set the RPM level so thatthe saw "four cycles" or "blubbers" at wide open throttle. Do notattempt to set at maximum RPM levels without a tachometer. Settingthe adjustment slightly rich will diminish performance, but reducethe possibility of damage to the saw engine. Â· Click on the link below and a WAV sound clip will be loaded intoyour browser. What you'll hear this time is a saw being adjustedfor full rev. After revving it up to max RPM and holding, we adjustthe high speed rich, causing it to slow down and blubber,developing little power. Then we adjust it lean causing it to soundsmoother and then it starts to starve, also creating little powerand creating a LOT of heat. As we back it off from lean to richagain, the sound becomes slightly rougher. This slightly roughsound (or 4-cycle sound, as it's sometimes referred to) is whereyou want it to be. We like to say, as "close" to the smooth as youcan get it, but still just slightly into the rough. This one is larger than the first, and requires more time to load.Those of you with slow systems or connections may not want to wait! Click here for Saw Full Rev Adjustment Sound WAV Â· Go back to step (5) and fine tune the idle speed adjustment andlow speed fuel adjustment. Correction at one adjusting screw oftencauses one of the other adjustment screws to need readjustment. Â· Your saw is properly adjusted and ready for work. Why Can't Carbs Be Set When They Are New & Then Leave ThemAlone? Some people wonder why their saw can't be adjusted when it's newand then not need any other tuning. They don't understand that sawscan't be set at the factory and stay correctly adjusted for thelife of the saw. The fact is, some manufacturers think that way,too, and have tried "fixed jet" and "semi-fixed jet" carburetors.These types of carburetors have never worked well. The reason isthat elevation, fuel type, and a host of other factors cause sawsto need periodic carburetor adjustment. In the future, fuelinjection units will probably be developed for chain saws.Sophisticated electronics will be able to monitor and meterair/fuel needs of two-cycle engines and saws will be able to "selfadjust." Until then, keep your adjustment screwdriver handy. (MORE)
If it has contact breakers and a condensor, check that the contact foot that rides the timing cam, is not worn down. Check the contact gap and the contact faces for pits and spikes. The faces should be flat, clean and smooth. The gap should be as per the owners handbook/ motor spec plate. Check for …spark at HT lead plug cap before checking plug for spark. (MORE)
The difference is in the motor size. . The 034AV is 56.5cc (cubic centimeters) and the 034 Super is 61.5 cc (cubic centimeters). The 034 Super has a slightly larger motor, and therefore it presumably also has greater speed and power.
Displacement 61.5 cc (3.75 cu. in.) Engine Power 3.3 kW (4.4 bhp) Weight (powerhead only) 5.7 kg (12.5 lbs.)
pressure test it to see if valves are working, and check diaphragm for holes Just pick up a rebuild kit for it...clean it up real well when its tore apart...then re-intsall it. If it still doesnt work then its new carb time
I have a Stihl 034AV Super (electronic quickstop). Bought it new in 1988, and still have the manual.... Here are the specs:. 61.5cc displacement. 48mm bore, 34mm stroke. 13000RPM max engine speed w/bar & chain. Electronic magneto ignition. Ignition timing: 1.9-2.5mm before TDC@8000RPM. Spark (…supressed): 0.5mm electrode gap- Spark plug thread M 14 X 1.25; 9.5mm long. Bosch WSR 6F or NGK BPMR 7A Heat Value 200. Carb: All position diaphragm carburetor with integral fuel pump. Wire mesh air filter (coarse filter on exterior) and two part, fine wire mesh box-type main filter. 0.625 liter fuel tank capacity. The owner's manual recommends 50:1 fuel mix when using Stihl-brand oil and 25:1 if you use a different brand. I use a different brand, but I never run it richer than 40:1. A good rule of thumb here is, if your engine smokes more than a tiny bit when warm, you're running it too rich.. Fully automatic oil pump lube, 0.36 liter oil tank capacity. 12.0lb weight without bar and chain. I use a 20" bar and it has power to burn. Even though this saw is over 20 years old, it still runs circles around most new saws out there. It starts a bit harder than it did when it was new, but that's the only knock on it. (MORE)
The Stihl 034 AV is a reliable saw that has done satisfactory work on trees up to 20 or 25 metres tall with a considerable diameter. Never had any problems with it.
Displacement : 56.5 cc Power : 3.0/4.1 kW/PS Weight : 5.9kg Recommended bar lengths : 15", 16", 18". Displacement : 56.5 cc Power : 3.0/4.1 kW/PS Weight : 5.9kg Recommended bar lengths : 15", 16", 18"
Engine: Fan cooled STIHL two-stroke engine with specially coasted cylinder bore. Displacement: 72.2 cm3 Engine Power: 3.6kw - 4.9 hp Weight of power unit: 6.6kg Fuel Tank Capacity: 680cm3 Chain Oil Capacity: 360cm3 Mixture: 1:25 or 1:50 when using STIHL two-stroke engine oil. E…lectronic ignition system, dust-tight sealed. All position diaphragm carburettor with integral fuel pump. Bar Lengths: 40, 45 and 50cm (MORE)
I use 40:1 mixed with high quality 2-stroke oil. I have used this mix in 1000s of chainsaws without any problem. . http://store.chainsawr.com/
It depends on a few things.... age of saw (15-20 yrs+ older=richer), how hard the saw is going to be working (a tad richer for really big jobs), etc, but probably 50:1 will work well for you.
call you local Stihl Dealer if YOU ARE UNSURE ABOUT ANYTHING REGARDING A CHAINSAW... STIHL.COM has some great info on dealers and easy to watch movies straight from the site...
It stands for Anti-Vibration. I have two Stihl saws made in the 80's (an 015AV and an 034AVSuper). The 034 replaced a really old 041 without the AV, so I can attest that it really makes using the saws a lot more comfortable if you plan on using it for more than an hour or so at once.. But then agai…n, all the new Stihl saws have the AV now :o) (MORE)
The Stihl 026 Pro has a 44mm X 32 MM bore and stroke 48.7 cc 2.96 c.i. with about 3.2 h.p. The Stihl MS 260 has a 44.7mm X 32 MM bore and stroke 50.2 cc 3.06 c.i. with about 3.2 h.p. The figures I have here I found on several different internet links. Hope this answers your question. Thanks. Bryan
For 2-cycle oil it is 40:1 and for 30 weight auto oil it is 25:1
1989 still running good, some problem with the trigger lock. not sure how many years they were manufactured.
remove the cover plate from the back of saw right above the throttle trigger remove air filter and you will see your carberator
The Stihl 028 series number is 1118. It has analuminum-and-chrome-plated bore, intake by piston pore and weighsin at 6.3kg with a 33cm bar and chain. It also has anti-vibration,the oil pump is automatic, and the engine has an RPM of 12,500, anidle RPM of 2,700, with a fuel tank capacity of 520ml.
Either the air filter is dirty or the flow is blocked when it is installed. Start by cleaning your air filter. (see the related link)
Push the off/run/choke lever all the way to the choke positions while holding the throttle button in. Place saw on level ground and place your foot on the pad to hold the saw down. Pull the starter cord one or twice, reset the off/run/choke lever to mid-way between on and choke (use the throttle b…utton while setting the lever and it will remain slightly engaged partial throttle position). Pull the starter cord again and as soon as it starts (should rev-up right away) blip the throttle once to set it back to idle or keep it running using the throttle until it warms up. After it's warmed up you can just start it with a pull of the starter cord with the off/run/choke in the run position. (MORE)
People assume the "CE" number is the year of manufacture - wrong. The YoM is encrypted in the serial number - a dealer may help out with this
The 056 was the original, the Super had a piston that was 2mm larger in diameter and an slight carburetor change. The Magnum had the same piston as the Super, but had a carburetor and ignition change, The one you did not ask about was the Magnum II (of which only 70 some were made) had a major carb …change, a muffler change and an ignition change. It could be further modified in the muffler. (MORE)
A STIHL 045 av is 75cc and the max recommended bar size for it is 32". However... If you have a 045 av Super then it would be 87cc and the max recommended bar length would be 36". So it depends if you have a SUPER or not. It is easy to tell as it will say SUPER on the top tag right below 045 av.
With Stihl most Super models have a piston diameter that is 2 mm larger than the other version of the same model. The Super is still an AV otherwise as that stands for anti-vibration, which means that it usually has four shock mount buffers between the engine and handle
If it's an 066 go 1 turn out from seat for high and low. No 064 to my knowledge.
There is a grounding strap beneath the starter that serves as the circuit between the vibration-mounted handle and the engine. If you take the handel apart, you will be sorry. Look for the broken wire at the coil in lower front corner first.
Bet you did not think someone would tell you where! I have worked on them years ago. See link below for specs.
A stihl 064 runs a 5.2 cubic inch or 85 cubic centimeter combustion chamber. With a 52 mm bore and 36 mm stroke. It produces roughly 6.5 horse power.
Probably because it's just a safety feature that Stihl has put in so that if you pick it up wrong you don't hurt or maim yourself by accident.
Stihl 041 AV is probably one of the best chainsaws ever made. It has displacement of 61 cm 3 , cylinder bore 44 mm, piston stroke 40 mm, 4,0 PS@7500 rpm (5,5 PS@7500 rpm reported when tested by DIN), 3,8 Nm@5000 rpm. It weights 7,5 kg with 33 cm bar and chain without liquids (that would be approx.… 6,8 kg for powerhead only). Fuel tank capacity is 0,62 l and oil tank 0,25 l. Oil flow rate is adjustable from 4 cm 3 to 16 cm 3 @6000 rpm. (MORE)
Displacement: 61.5 cm3 Bore: 48 mm Stroke: 34 mm Compression ratio: 9.5:1 Engine power to ISO 8893: 3.4 kW (4.6 bhp) at 9,500 rpm Max. torque: 3.7 Nm at 6,500 rpm Max. permissible engine speed with bar and chain: 13,000 rpm Mean idle speed: 2,700 rpm
The correct spark plug for a Stihl 024 is an RCJ6Y (Champion),BPMR7A (NGK), or a WSR6F (Bosch). Make sure that the gap is set to0.020 inches.
32 cc (2.0 cu. in.) Engine Displacement 1 Cylinder 38 mm (1.52 in.) Cylinder Bore 28 mm (1.12 in.) Piston Stroke Aluminum with chrome plated bore Cylinder Type Piston ported Intake 1.8 DIN @ 8,500 rpm Manufacturer Advertised Horse Power Weighs 4.3 kg (9.6 lbs.) powerhead only One Man operation Anti-…vibration handlebar No Chain-Brake Centrifugal Clutch Direct Drive Die cast magnesium Construction Phelon flywheel type Magneto Cellulose fiber element (Dacron fiber) Air Filter Automatic rewind Starter Automatic, gear driven Oil Pump 2.3 mm (0.090 in.) before TDC Ignition Timing 0.35 to 0.40 mm (0.014 to 0.016 in.) Breaker Point Setting Flywheel/Coil Air Gap Positon is fixed Bosch WSR6F, Champion RCJ7Y Spark Plug 0.51 mm (0.020 in.) Spark Plug Gap Caged needle roller Crankshaft Main Bearing 330 ml (11 fl. oz.) Fuel Tank Capacity 40:1 with Stihl oil Fuel Oil Ratio Regular grade fuel recommended 30 cm (12 in.) Shortest Guide Bar 40 cm (16 in.) Longest Guid Bar Grey with Black handles Color Scheme (MORE)
MS stands for ' M agnum S eries' of Stihl chainsaws, their moderate to average use line. ACTUALLY: PER ANDREAS STIHL HIMSELF: IT'S "MOTO SAGEN"...GERMAN FOR "POWER-SAW".
Depending on the model there should be a cover above the throttle handle. The spark plug should be under that cover.
That has no singular answer since there were the regular model, the Super and the Magnum. The stroke remained the same on all three at 38mm. The list is: 056 AVE 52mm x 38mm 056 AVSE 54mm x 38mm 056 AVSEQ 54mm x 38mm 056 Magnum AVE 56mm x 38mm 056 Magnum AVEQ 56mm x 38mm AV = anti-vibration or shoc…k mounted E = electronic ignition S = Super Q = Quickstop or chainbrake (MORE)
That depends on the model! Most, but not all, are made (engineered) for the mechanic's sake. There are exceptions like the 015, 020, MS200, etc.
the 085 AKA O8S was produced in the 1960's between 1963 to 1965 or so. Very little info on these old saws, they were approx a 60cc engine and very powerful for the day and still hold up well to the modern day Sthil saws. The one I have has very good high RPM, that surprises me sthil to this day.
need to adjust high speed jet in carberator, turn in all the way then back out about 1 turn out and go from there.
not sure when exactly they stopped making the 017 but they did change it to the ms170 which is currently in production
My best recommendation is to take it to a certified shop, the tension screw base is located beneath many other adjustments dealing with timing. Tampering with other adjustments may leave your saw non-functional.
A Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss chainsaw costs around $370. This is Stihl's most popular model of chainsaw. It weighs about 17.4 pounds and has 3.8 Horse Power.