Yes any sort of life in the pool will effect free chlorine.
You scrub the pool and filter the water. Or scrub the pool and do a water change. Some people use salt as an algae inhibitor and they do make salt for pools. You can get it at Walmart or home improvement stores, or at pool stores.
Just shock it to break point and your at free chlorine.
Combined chlorine is when the chlorine molecule has attached itself to other molecules in water. In other words it has "combined" with something else in the water. Those could be iron, manganese, ammonia or other things depending on the source water. Free chlorine is the molecules that are "free" in the water to do the disinfection.
Someone/something changed the original question and that is probably why it has not been answered.Safe levels for chlorine are 1.5 ppm to about 5.0 ppm. of free chlorine. You should have a test kit that will give you free chlorine readings as opposed to just a chlorine residual. Free chlorine is what sanitizes the pool water. If you can smell a chlorine odor coming from your pool then you do not have enough chlorine in the water.K
You need to shock the pool. The difference between Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine is tied up and it will be cleared by shocking. Thatis the purpose of shocking.
yes, the algae feeds on the chlorine.. must get rid of algae, then bring up chlorine level
As with all products that advertise " no chlorine" NOT SO! You should use chlorine to SANITIZE the water. The extra shock that this provides will keep your pool free of algae especially with the use of the product you mentioned.
There is 3 measurements of chlorine in a pool or spa. Total chlorine, combined chlorine, and free available chlorine. Free available chlorine is the good chlorine that is active in the pool killings germs and algae. Combined chlorine is chlorine is basically chlorine that was once active but has killed germs or bacteria and is now inactive in the pool. Total chlorine is free available and combined chlorine added together. If your combined chlorine is higher than free available chlorine then the water needs to be shocked to eliminate the combined chlorine. But be careful here. If you don't reach what's called break point you will only add to the combined chlorine. There are products on the market which will only remove combined chlorine without effecting your free available chlorine if you are unsure about reaching breakpoint. Hope this helps.
They are on the right. --> Use pool shock. Double shock it to get rid of algae. Start using "No-Phos" or "Phos-Free". This eliminates the food for algae. Use an algacide to kill the existing algae. Brush all the surfaces of the pool every day to keep algae from latching onto the walls. Vacumn and backwash twice a week to get rid of the dead algae. Make sure your pH is correct so the chemicals can work properly. Once your water is clean, keep using the No Phos product every week. This has saved us hundreds of dollars in chemical use. I'm not sure what you mean by "the water is balanced", but if it means that your PH and Alkalinity levels are ok, then I would suggest making sure that the chlorine levels you're checking are for Free Chlorine, not Total Chlorine (there is a difference). If the Free Chlorine is fine, then as the first guy said, I would shock the pool. If your Free Chlorine dips below the normal levels, however, you should use chlorinating shock. That way the chlorine jumps up, and any chlorine tablets you add into the pool will keep the chlorine level high. Once the algae is dead, brush the entire pool (including the walls, floor, and any stairs, ladders, lights, or other objects that are in the pool). Brushing the pool stops the algae from sticking to anything in the pool, and allows it to be picked up by your filter. After you brush the pool, run the pump, and clean the filter when necessary. You'll know the algae is dead when the pool stops being green - the green color is chlorophyll, which is the chemical that the algae uses to get energy using photosynthesis.
Free Chlorine is the Chlorine which is free to do its work in the pool, as opposed to Combined Chlorine which is chlorine that has combined with contaminants and is tied up and ineffective as a sanitizer in the pool. Sometimes you will see it abbreviated as FAC, which stands for Free Available Chlorine.
You scrub the pool and filter the water. Or scrub the pool and do a water change. Some people use salt as an algae inhibitor and they do make salt for pools. You can get it at Walmart or home improvement stores, or at pool stores.
Just shock it to break point and your at free chlorine.
You only need to shock the pool if there is visible algae, or if the ppm of total chlorine is higher than the ppm of free chlorine. Generally, a level of 2-4 ppm chlorine is all you need to keep your pool sanitary. Let the level drop to that on its own, or use sodium thiosulfate to drop it quickly if you notice itchy skin from excessive chlorine.
The most important factor to inhibiting algae growth is the amount of free chlorine, not so much the other water balance factors (except temperature and pH). You could have alage on the boulders for the following reasons: 1) The amount of free chlorine in your pool is enough to inhibit growth of alage in your pool, but not in the different conditions on the boulder (see below). 2) The boulder and water flowing over it may be at a higher temperature, especially towards the bottom boulders, if they are exposed to the sun. Higher temperatures promote more algae growth that could outstrip the available free chlorine. 3) If the boulders are exposed to the sun, then this may be reducing the amount of available chlorine, especially if you do not use any conditioner (Cyanuric Acid). 4) The bubbling and aerating of water may convert much of the chlorine to gas via HOCl + Cl- --> Cl2(g) + OH- which is more likely in a salt pool due to the extra chloride ions from the salt to begin with. Do you notice a chlorine smell near the top boulders? 5) Areas near the edge of the water flow do not get enough continuous exposure to the pool water for the chlorine to kill the algae, but get enough water for algae to form. Also, if the water pools so that chlorine is released to the air faster than the pool is refilled with new water, this could promote algae growth. This is similar to poor circulation in a pool. As for what to do, the easiest thing is to treat your boulders with an extra "shock" of 5-10 ppm chlorine (which could be done when you shock your pool with liquid chlorine). Do NOT shock your pool with just the chlorine generator as this will not build up enough chlorine fast enough to kill some more aggressive algaes. Use liquid chlorine to shock your pool, or at least your boulders.
Chlorine
Someone/something changed the original question and that is probably why it has not been answered.Safe levels for chlorine are 1.5 ppm to about 5.0 ppm. of free chlorine. You should have a test kit that will give you free chlorine readings as opposed to just a chlorine residual. Free chlorine is what sanitizes the pool water. If you can smell a chlorine odor coming from your pool then you do not have enough chlorine in the water.K
Combined chlorine is when the chlorine molecule has attached itself to other molecules in water. In other words it has "combined" with something else in the water. Those could be iron, manganese, ammonia or other things depending on the source water. Free chlorine is the molecules that are "free" in the water to do the disinfection.