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How can you confirm at the outlet with a meter if it truly is a 20A dedicated line and has not just had the outlet changed from 15A?

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2009-06-07 07:41:33
2009-06-07 07:41:33

Any such attempt with a meter would just destroy the meter. Why not just find out which breaker/fuse controls the circuit and see what the breaker/fuse is rated at. Also find out what the wire size is. For a 20 AMP circuit you MUST have 12 gauge wire. There are other requirements but those two seem to be about the most significant. As has been stated, a meter won't help. The breaker prevents excessive load to be placed on the wiring so any 20 amp circuit would be limited by the breaker and there would be no other way to determine if a circuit is 15 Amp or 20 Amp other than to check at the breaker panel. Also, if someone just put a 20 amp breaker on a 14 gauge wire you have a serious fire hazard. As the above post suggests, have a professional check this out for you, it's too dangerous to make assumptions. <><><> Your description of "20A dedicated line" makes me think that you are needing a circuit for a heavy power-using-device that needs it own circuit (without any other receptacles or devices). If that is the case, then a meter can be used (with difficulty) to determine if any other outlets are connected to the same circuit. First turn off the power on the receptacle. Then check to see if any other receptacles are also dead. If so, they are probably on the same circuit and your receptacle is not a dedicated supply. <><><> Another method is to use a circuit tracer (available at Lowe's and other hardware and electrical supply stores). Plug the transmitter into the questionable receptacle, then use the receiver to check other receptacles to see if they are on the same circuit. Receptacles on the same circuit will cause a continuous fast beep (or other signal depending on model). You can also trace the circuit to the circuit breaker panel to find which breaker it is connected. It should be a 20-Ampere-trip breaker to make full use of a dedicated 20 A receptacle. <><><> Borrow an amp clamp and find the breaker in question. Clamp it around the neutral for that circuit (This takes a friend helping). Plug in a significant load like a hair dryer and have the friend turn in on and off while you watch the meter. It should read zero, then 8-10 amps then zero, etc. Plug loads in outlets that you think the contractor absconded the circuit from. The amps from those outlets should never show up on the amp clamp. Make sure the wire is 12 awg. A 12 awg wire will not push in the stabs of a 15 amp receptacle. SAFETY ADVICE

Before you do any work yourself,

on household electricity supplies, equipment or appliances,

always turn off the power

at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND

always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes

(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)

to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

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Sprint.100 meter sprint is dedicated from greek sports.


No. Current does not come from a wall outlet unless the wall outlet is part of a complete circuit.


Could be either or both. There is usually a cutoff between the meter and the main line, though it is usually located outside. And there is usually one near the outlet of the meter.


Your question is very confusing. When you say, 'meter', what type of meter? The only safe meter you can connect to a wall outlet is a voltmeter which will measure the actual voltage across the line and neutral (as opposed to the 'nominal' value). Then you bring in the subject of 'Ohm's Law' without explaining what you are trying to find. You need to rephrase the question so that it is clear what you are asking.


You would use a clamp on amp meter for measuring the electrical current of an outlet or wire. The clamp allows the meter to get an accurate reading without the user having to worry about the meter moving around too much.


There are 1,000 millimeters in 1 meter.


More information is required, is it just one outlet / building? If it is then the most likely explanation would be an incorrectly functioning meter /meter set to the wrong scale or function. If all outlets are only giving 40 volts contact your electricity company.


You can't change a length into an area.


If you have an electrical outlet not working and you have an idea what you are doing, you set out to repair it. First, you check the circuit breaker for a thrown circuit breaker. If that is not the case, you get a volt meter. When you have a volt meter, you throw the circuit breaker to that outlet. Then you take a screwdriver and you remove the outlet but keep the wires attached. You make sure the wires are not touching anything. You go back to the circuit breaker panel. You turn on the electricity. Then you test the wires with your voltmeter. If it shows they have electricity, you know the problem is the outlet. If not, you have a different problem. You go back to the panel and turn off the circuit breaker. You put the outlet back in. If the problem was the outlet you buy a new outlet. In the United States, a number of hardware and electrical supply stores sell them. You go back. You turn off the circuit breaker. You remove the outlet from the wall. You notice where the wires are. The new outlet also comes with an explanation of how to attach the wires. You attach them and put the outlet back in the wall. If the problem was not the outlet, you call an electrician. While an electrician will cost money, a burned down house will cost more money.


In the hospital, oxygen is supplied to each patient room via an outlet in the wall. Oxygen is delivered from a central source through a pipeline in the facility. A flow meter attached to the wall outlet accesses the oxygen.


In order to be billed for electricity, you have to have a flow of current. your electric meter is not unlike your water meter in this regard, it measures flow rate through it. An outlet that is not plugged in to anything that is on, or an empty socket that normally holds a bulb will not pass current. That means they are technically off. All a switch does is open an electrical circuit. To close a socket circuit you need a bulb. To close an outlet circuit, you need an appliance that is on (another switch may be involved).


A reading of 145 volts is high. The first thing that I would check is the accuracy of your meter. Check the voltage reading at different locations for example, friends homes, to see if the reading is still high there. If it is check your meter reading against another meter. If you are sure that your meter and reading is correct then call the utility company and get them to check the voltage for you.


standard was changed to be associated with the constant speed of light


with a voltage tester or meter that has a rating higher than what you are expecting to find Most testers / meters are rated 600 volt


Make sure your meter has a good battery. A low battery will make voltage read higher.


Confirm that you have power Confirm that your circuit breakers have not tripped. Test for power at the motor --- you need a meter --- be careful. do not stand in water on the deck at the equipment. If there is power at the back of the motor where the wires attach to the posts then your motor may be bad.


Not enough info. The only "12 volt outlet" that is remotely standard is the lighter socket in a car. Most if not all cars have the negative side of the battery at ground, which is the outer shell of a lighter socket. So the center contact is positive. If you are asking about any other 12 volt outlet, you need to check it out with a meter, or get a diagram for the system.




"With a volt meter." That last answer could be improved a bit as measured by my dolt meter. One uses a volt meter to measure a 220 outlet by setting it to 'Voltage' or a symbol that looks like a 'V' with a tilde over or beside it for AC. Set the voltage range to 200 or 600 or something close. Put one lead in a socket on the volt meter that probably says 'COM', and put the other in the 'V' socket on the meter. You should read zeroes whether the leads are touching or not. There will be (probably) 3 or 4 outlet socket holes. If 3, two will look slanted and the third will either be straight or have an 'L' shape to it. The L or straight socket is your ground/common socket. The two slanted sockets are your hot sockets. Putting a lead in each of the slanted sockets (being careful to hold the leads by the non-metalic part) should yield your reading, about 220-240.


The NEC does not address this situation. Your local utilities may have rules on this. Use common sense. You would not want any electrical device near a gas meter that could leak. Just do not put one close to a gas meter and you know you will be safe. If you have an outdoor gas furnace and want to install a GFCI near it just make sure to install it as far from the gas meter as possible.


First, you need to turn off the electricity on that circuit at the meter box. Then, it is a matter of mechanically removing the remains of the plug. If you end up damaging the outlet, you will need to replace that, too. It depends on the type of plug that broke off as to whether you can replace it on the same wire.


The voltage is getting to the top end of the 120 volt limit. Make sure that the meter that you are using is zeroed out before taking any readings.


A VOM 'Voltage Meter' measures from a electrical outlet. Any voltage over a 1000 should never be measured directly with it.


You can "test " the sensor using a DVOM ( digital volt ohm meter) if you have a manual that has the spec, also helps to have an inferred temperature gun to confirm the temp at the sensor.



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