The appropriate wire size for a 150-amp breaker depends on the type of wire material (copper or aluminum) and the operating temperature. The following table provides the recommended wire sizes for different scenarios:
Wire Size (AWG) | **Copper (75°C)** | **Aluminum (75°C)**
2/0 | 175 A | 135 A
3/0 | 200 A | 155 A
4/0 | 230 A | 180 A
For example, if you are using copper wire and operating the breaker at 75°C, then you would need a 2/0 AWG wire. If you are using aluminum wire and operating the breaker at 75°C, then you would need a 3/0 AWG wire.
Please note that these are just general guidelines. It is always best to consult with a qualified electrician to determine the exact wire size for your specific application.
The standard height is around 12" to 15" the bottom of the box above the floor but for the disabled you can install them higher but no more than 48" above the floor. Pick a height that will work for the disabled and install all of them the exact same height.
Minimum size is 10 gauge with a 30 amp breaker. To be safe I would install an 8 gauge with a 40 amp breaker.
Usually a livelihood program is working with underdeveloped countries to improve their ability to make money and improve their standard of living. It is usually done in conjunction with some sort of established program.
well everyone is saying that you need to be at least 16 but you can ask next time you are at goodwill.
Working with people is always good experience, especially when you work with teams then you gain lots of things. And it gives you experience to deal with different kind of personalities and behaviors.
Live & Neutral
The lighting fixture should have all of the bulb's leads brought to a central point in the fixtures junction box. All of the black wires from the bulb's socket will be tied together. The same applies to the white wires from the socket.
The white wires are tied into the lighting circuit's white neutral wire and the black wires are all connected to the "hot" supply wire. Once these connections are made, the fixture can be bolted to the ceiling junction box.
Just make it a junction box. Remove the outlet, tie the blacks together under a wire nut. The the whites together under a wire nut. Tie the ground wires together under a wire nut. Push all the wires back into the outlet box and cover it with a blank cover. Paint the cover the same color as the wall. Do not sheet-rock over the outlet box. All junction boxes must be accessible.
The size of grounded conductor that is required for 400 amps will vary depending on the circuit. A person should consult with their electric company before attempting to wire the circuit themselves.
No conductor smaller than #6 bare shall be used for a ground wire. 2006 code book called for #3 copper for a 400 amp service.
4/0 (4 ought) in copper will handle 250 amps. The voltage drop at 175 ft. is about 2.14 volts which should be okay.
A #12 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 20 amps.
A #12 aluminium conductor with an insulation rating of 90 degrees C is rated at 15 amps.
These conductors ratings only applies to three conductors in a raceway. To apply the derate to the conductor requires the size of the raceway.
From 7 to 24 conductors in a raceway, both aluminium and copper conductor's ratings have to be reduced by .70, so 15 amps x .7 = 10.5 amps and 20 amps x .7 = 14 amps respectively.
One could purchase aluminum conduit at home improvement retailers such as Home Depot, Lowe's or Rona. One could also order it through a wholesaler such as American Conduit.
Conduit fitting is used on metal pipes that house electrical wires. These fittings are not only to connect the various pieces together, but to keep a relatively water tight seal to the wires.
The run winding of a single phase capacitor start motor has a lower resistance than the start winding.
This is a voltage drop question. A #1 copper conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 100 amps for 200 feet on a 240 volt system. Or
a 3/0 copper conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 100 amps for 200 feet on a 120 volt system. In your question you sis not stipulate what the working voltage is.
A circuit breaker can go bad from being tripped too many times. Many people don't understand that the tripping of a circuit breaker indicates a problem that needs to be corrected. They usually just reset the circuit breaker, leading to a very common second (or third, or fourth) trip. Circuit breakers tripping are for the prevention of fire due to excessive heat in the circuit. They're not supposed to be tripped repeatedly. This can wear the breaker out. Believe it or not, I've also seen circuit breakers fail to re-energize after being turned off. I speculate this was actually caused by the breaker never having been cycled (it was a main breaker), and the time elapsed since it was installed. Electrical equipment doesn't last forever. It's the same as anything else.
A 100-A sub-panel would be fed from a 100-A breaker.
In most rooms they must be spaced no more than 12 feet from each other. In kitchens, they should be spaced about 4 feet from each other.
All electrical distribution systems require a system earth ground for personnel safety. The ground for your home electrical system is likely a grounding rod, a 10 ft. copper clad steel rod driven into the ground and then bonded with a brass clamp and large bare ground wire to your panel. This provides a path to ground to dissipate errant current which can occur due to a circuit which "shorts out." Better it goes to ground than into you!
But the NEC requires that your first disconnect be installed as close as practical to where the service enters the building. So if the bedroom isn't where the service enters the home, you will have to install a stand-alone disconnect where it does and then wire to your panel.
A Discussion has been started about this Question and Answer.
To add your own comments please click on the 'View Discussion' button below these Answers.
=== === <><><> If you needed to ask this question here, one of the most important things you must learn is how to use an electrician's multi-meter correctly and safely. This is one of those questions... If you know this little, you shouldn't be planning to do what you are planning... No disrespect intended, but this is SO basic that it suggests you have not studied the subject at all! There are many good reference books and course books to study from. === === <><><> This question is not as easy to answer as you may at first think. It all depends if you really know what you mean when you say "a positive wire" and "a negative wire". Are you asking about an AAA cell or are you asking about mains voltage alternating current? So take the advice given above and learn how to use a multimeter - safely - to measure voltages and currents used by electrical items or systems. Some of them use direct current power supplies, such as dry cells or batteries; other things use alternating current power supplies such as 120 Volt or 240 Volt power mains. You really need to know about both types because none of them are safe to play with, not even the simplest dry cell or battery. If you want to ask this type of question again please be sure to say: * exactly what type of electrical item or system it is that you want to know about
* where those wires are on (or in) the item or system that you are curious to know about which wires are positive or negative. Then someone may be able to help you by giving you a more specific answer.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
A 1/0 AWG aluminium conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 60 amps for 330 feet on a 240 volt system. The cable will be rated as ACWU 90. ACWU 90 cables are primarily intended for exposed and concealed wiring in dry or wet locations and where exposed to the weather. For use in ventilated, non-ventilated, and ladder type cable trays in wet and dry locations; direct earth burial; service entrance above or below ground.
In a completely metallic conduit system it is not necessary to ground each junction box as long as the metallic system has the grounding capacity rating larger than that of the over current device protecting the circuit. The code book states what size conduits are rated at, for grounding amperages.