That depends on how much voltage is applied, because Volts x Amps = Watts. So find out your Voltage and multiply it by the amperage to get your wattage.

60Hz is standard for AC (hence the term Alternating Current) and used for long distance power transmissions and even household currents. Usually what is coming out of the socket is around 120 Volts (240 for appliances and other countries). So applying this formula to this is simple: 120Vx5A=600 Watts or 240Vx5A=1200 Watts. So on so forth...

Simply multiplying volts times amps gives what's called Volt-Amperes or apparent power. Volt-Amperes equal watts (real power) in largely resistive circuits. Circuits with motors, transformers and inductors have power factors that must be taken into consideration when calculating watts. For example, in a motor circuit with a power factor .6, the watts would be Volts X Amps X .6

If it is a 220 volt motor with split windings to run on 110 volts then there is usually a connection chart on the motor somewhere on or behind the motor wiring cover plate. There will be at least 4 lugs for running it in series for 220V or parallel for 110V and possibly a couple more terminals to reverse its direction.

Enter the model number of the motor on an Internet search engine and see if you can find a wiring diagram.

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

white

For a country using the USA standard house wiring color code:

the black wire connects to the brass color screw.white to silver color,ground to green.

The international standard for the "live" wire is brown, which would go to the brass screw, plus blue to the white screw, green/yellow to the green screw.

In some cases, another color may also need to be switched, such as a red wire or a white (or blue) one in a three-way circuit. If white or blue wires are to be used for switched live voltage, they should have black or brown colored electrical tape applied to them where they enter the junction box.

Note:

That answer is not completely true. In the United States, the National Electrical Code requires that white or natural grey shall be for neutral conductors, {silver terminal} and green, green/yellow insulation or bare copper wire on the grounding terminal, {green terminal}. The hot, {brass terminal} may utilize any other color insulated conductor. While it is common practice to use black for the hot when using Romex, other colors may be used.

I'm guessing you want to know what a 240v switch is? If you look at a 120v single pole switch, you will see two brass screws on one side. This type of switch is designed to interrupt current flow in one conductor. A 240v switch is really a double pole switch. It has 4 screws and is capable (and required) of interrupting current flow in two conductors simultaneously. This is an NEC requirement. It allows a local means of disconnect instead of having to go back to the breaker, and a multiwire disconnect is required to disconnect all ungrounded (hot) conductors at the same time. That way one 120v leg cannot be shut off while the other is on. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator

to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

You have to use 3 insulated wires beween the two switches as is shown in the circuit diagrams shown in the Related Link shown below this answer:

How to wire 3-way and 4-way switches, including wiring diagrams

If you don't have any 14-3 then, to get 3 insulated wires, you can use two lengths of 14-2 cable and just leave one wire of one pair clipped short and not connected to anything.

If you connect extra lights in parallel with the first light you will be able to switch all the lights on and off together using the same pair of switches.

You will find more information that will help you if you look at the answer to the separate Related Questions which are all shown below this answer, especially:

How do you hook-up or wire up one light with two on-off switches?

You will get even more information if you also look at the answers to that question's own Related Questions.

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

A resistive load just describes something like a toaster, electric water heater or space heater, where the load is relatively constant. The description is used to distinguish from something like an electric motor, which uses much more current at startup then drops off significantly after it is running.

In a.c. circuits, a resistive load describes a load whose load current is in phase with its supply voltage. Expressed another way, it is a load having unity power factor. Resistive loads are not necessarily constant -for example a tungsten-filament lamp has a low resistance when cold and a high resistance at its operating temperature.

There is a couple of things going on here. First a 30 amp dryer plug will not fit into a 50 amp range plug. So rather than changing the the dryer cord over to a 50 amp range cord all you have to do is change the 50 amp breaker over to a 30 amp breaker in the distribution panel. The wire size is big enough to run the 30 amp dryer. Change the 50 amp range receptacle to a new 30 amp dryer receptacle and your installation will be within the electrical code guidelines.

Circuit breakers and wire gauges are designed to protect the wiring, not the appliance (and not the user!). Amperage ratings are draws, not demands.

More Information

The answer to your question is yes. A 30-amp dryer will run quite nicely on a 50-amp circuit, provided it is properly wired and the voltage is correct. As has been pointed out, a standard 30-amp dryer pigtail won't plug into a standard 50-amp range receptacle. But there is no reason you can't replace the dryer's pigtail with a range pigtail, and that would be a heck of a lot easier and faster -- and cheaper! -- than replacing receptacle and breaker, as suggested above.

What you must NEVER do is the opposite -- replace a range pigtail with a dryer pigtail and try to run the range on a 30-amp circuit. Most electric ranges can draw up to 50 amps, enough to overload the 30-amp circuitry usually provided for a clothes dryer.

The key here is understanding how current draw works. A 50-amp appliance plugged into a 30-amp circuit -- say, an electric stove plugged into an outlet meant for a dryer -- can be a problem because the the stove will try to draw more current through the circuit than it's rated for, and protected against. A circuit breaker will trip, or a wire or connection will overheat.

On the other hand, a 30-amp appliance plugged into a 50-amp circuit -- a clothes dryer plugged into a stove outlet, for example -- is just fine. The dryer will draw a mere 30 amps, no matter that the circuit can provide 50 amps.